Question: Camo Painting
dury...@my-deja.com
Soldiers,) How does one wash a camo mini? And if anyone can point me
to some web resources I'd be most grateful. Thanks in advance, and have
a great night!
-Andy
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Before you buy.
Mack Brewer
dury...@my-deja.com wrote in message
<8eiuhu$ush$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...
>I'm about to paint up my first camo dressed figs (Vor: Union
>Soldiers,) How does one wash a camo mini? And if anyone can point
me
>to some web resources I'd be most grateful. Thanks in advance, and
have
>a great night!
>-Andy
Hello Andy,
What colour patterns are you going with?
I'm just starting to paint up my Union troops the same
way (maybe? almost?) with a camo pattern.
I base coated them white first, tonight I should be painting
them "storm grey" and then dabbing on patches and stripes of
green and black.
(unless I change my mind again and paint them green and go for
the old standby of "tiger striping" them)
I'm an amateur painter, not that great, but I thought the wash was
just to highlight the crevaces/wrinkles/features by leaving a
(usually) black sort-of-ink-line around them to really bring them
out?
I know for white camos and such you generally wash with blue
paint/inks but thought that most other washes were black based?
I've inserted and old message about washes and inks below and
the ref link he had for more info.
Mack Brewer
(VOR newbie)
In article <20000331210645...@ng-cj1.news.cs.com>,
meldr...@cs.com (Meldrew2000) wrote:
> Probably a silly question, but what is the difference between
washes,
inks, and
> stains? How are they prepared and how are they used?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Confused newbie painter.
>
Well, there's a confusion here because various companies have marketed
*inks* under all three of these names over the years... notably Games
Workshop, but also some other brands like Dragon Wand/Chessex. To add
one more wrinkle to the problem, GW used to market a line of "Washes"
which originally were full-strength inks, but later (mid 90's? in the
six-sided bottles) were actually *thinned-down* inks (as I describe
below).The thinned-down variety of GW washes can be used straight from
the bottle, with no thinning! However, with the newest type of GW
paint
(small, round bottles with black screw-tops), these "Washes" are back
to
being full-strength inks... Geez, what hosers! :^(
But back to the basic concept: a wash is any thinned dilution of paint
or ink that's painted over a paint basecoat to deepen that color and
add
dark shading to the recesses.
A *paint* wash is typically diluted to the consistency of 1% milk.
Paint
washes are less tricky to use than ink washes because they are still
the
same "medium" as the basecoat and have the same binders, etc. which
help
them stick to the other paint better. I'd recommend practicing with
these before moving on to inks if you're a beginner.
An *ink* wash can be either the ink used at full strength or diluted
with water.
Inks used at full strength tend to be too dark or too vivid for use as
a
wash - inks as a medium have very bright pigments, with a thin binder,
unlike paints, which have a thicker binder, so the ink pigments tend
to
show much stronger. The darker the ink color (black, purple, etc), the
worse it darkens the base coat.
For an ink wash, you'll probably want to dilute it with a little
water.
A 1:1 ratio of water to ink for light colors (red, yellow, orange) and
a
2:1 (or even 3:1) ratio for dark colors (black, purple, dark green,
dark
blue) seems about right.
DO NOT OVER-DILUTE THE INKS! Using too much water causes the dreaded
"ring-around-the-collar" effect, meaning the heavier water settles in
the recesses, leaving the ink pigments floating on top - when the
water
dries, the inks seems to leave a ring around the recess, with no
actual
shading where it was supposed to go!
To combat this problem, use a little wetting agent - like the previous
poster suggested - I use a drop of Liquitex Flow-Aid in my ink washes
(sometimes I don't even need to add additional water, depending on how
dark the ink is). Flow-Aid is made to help airbrush acrylic paints and
inks stick better to surfaces, esp. using thinned media. Also, like he
said, a drop of liquid detergent in the wash water, or a drop of
rubbing
alcohol seems to help.
Check out my painting guide on using washes (paint and ink). I have
step-by-step photos of a demo figure there:
http://home.pacbell.net/lnlcoolj/Hot_Lead/start/painting_basic_tech.ht
m
(I need to update the content a bit, but the images show the basic
wash/drybrush technique).
Take care,
Laszlo
****************************************************
"I say to you: KNOCK OFF ALL THAT EVIL!" - The Tick
happy_w...@my-deja.com
> Mack Brewer
> (VOR newbie)
<snip>
I've painted one cammo model in my life, (Vindicare assassin with a
realistic costume. Black is just boring) who is done with old citadel
paints (the second version, with hex-pots). What i did was paint the
whole area goblin green, then apply shading and highlighting to this
base coat (with ork flesh wash and green wash, and one of the lighter
greens for highlights) then i add patches of dark angels green, snot
green, snakebite leather, vermin fur, etc. Then applied a couple of
highlights to this, although it didn't need much.
In short, use one base colour, shaded and highlighted, before adding
any real cam pattern and it should look ok.
--
"SPUD FOR THE SPUD GOD" - Battle cry of the followers of Mr Potato Head
I really must write an army list sometime...
For now, here's another Chaos God's Daemons, thanks to House Shadis:
http://www.shadowdancers.com/sda3main/shadis/barny_bg.html