Paints and Techniques
Dweeb
them.
Where can I get suitable paints and other supplies? What ARE suitable paints
and supplies??
I have read a few articles on The Miniatures Page, but I don't know the
meaning of certain terms such as "Wash" and "Drybrushing". Is there a newbie
FAQ or Primer out there?
If I do a really bad job, how tough is it to start over? Could I take the
paint off with thinner without damaging the minis?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Patton
>and supplies??
Lots of hobby shops carry them. Alternately, you can get craft paint at
Wal-Mart or a similar store (assuming you're in North America). Brushes are
the other probably necessary item. . . . :) They're available at hobby shops,
art supply stores, or megastores.
>I have read a few articles on The Miniatures Page, but I don't know the
>meaning of certain terms such as "Wash" and "Drybrushing". Is there a newbie
>FAQ or Primer out there?
I've got a brand new one at the following address:
http://hometown.aol.com/jppatton1/guide/guide.html
Hope it's of some use -- it's not even linked off my main page yet. :) It's
a fantasy guide, but the general ideas should remain the same. Assuming it's
not useful, and to get other perspectives, I've got a bunch of links on my main
site (URL in my .sig).
>If I do a really bad job, how tough is it to start over? Could I take the
>paint off with thinner without damaging the minis?
Pine-Sol (again, if you're in N.A,) works quite well and is more or less
non-toxic. Drop 'em in for 8-48 hours (but not the plastic parts, as these
will get gummy). If you intend to continue in the hobby, you might want to
keep them to show how much you've improved. :)
Joel
Minutiae: Fantasy miniatures
http://users.aol.com/jppatton1/minutiae.html
Blaze
To be honest, you may also want to monitor the historical miniatures news
group too. I know it's for historical, but those figures have to be painted
too.(G) rec.games.miniatures.historical
( I've gotten a few pewter starship minis and I'm clueless as to how to
paint them.)
For starters get an idea of how you want these to look when you finish
painting. I find locating pictures will help. This also ensures that I get
everything I need to do the job.
( Where can I get suitable paints and other supplies? What ARE suitable
paints and supplies??)
As far as I am concerned, the most suitable paints and supplies that I feel
comfortable using. You'll find that folks can tell you how to do a lot of
things, but you may find that they don't work as well for you. So don't be
afraid to try new things.
I started out using water based paints. When I built models I used things
like testor paints and I really couldn't stand the smell of the thinner
needed to clean the brushes. Not to mention the smell tended to make my
throat sore. For those reasons I use water based paint. Armory, Polly S,
Citadel, are some of the name brands. Each of these have some really nice
qualities. However, I also find that Apple Barrel, Ceram Coat, and some of
the other water based craft paints which can be found at just about any
craft shop or Wal-Mart type store work as well. I still use a few colors
from the hobby brand paints. Armory has a real nice horse flesh set of
colors. I really like some of the metal colors Citadel turns out. The bonus
to getting the craft paints is that you have a huge selection of colors and
you get more paint for the money.
Your local hobby shop should be able to get one of the name brands. If
don't have a local shop and don't want to mailorder, try some of the craft
shop brands and see if you like them.
As far as brushes go, try the craft shops. Again a Hobby shop dealer may
carry some, but I find a good selection at the craft shops. Brushes can
affect the quality of your paint job. Model Railroad shops can also supply
you with some of your supplies.
(I have read a few articles on The Miniatures Page, but I don't know the
meaning of certain terms such as "Wash" and "Drybrushing". Is there a newbie
FAQ or Primer out there?)
Wash is generally put on after the figure is finished. It is very diluted
paint, color depends on purpose.
Dry brushing, is painting with as little paint as possible on your brush.
You generally have a darker color on the bottom, and the idea here is to
bring out the detail by drybrushing a close but lighter color over it. This
works best with figures that are properly cleaned of flash and mold lines.
It's a bit of work but yields very nice results, especially if the figure
has really good details.
> If I do a really bad job, how tough is it to start over? Could I take the
paint off with thinner without damaging the minis?
I really don't have experience with this part. I would suggest you pick up a
few cheap figures to practice or learn on if you are real worried about
messing up your good figures. I think there are some recommendations on
other sites. Dr. Faust's site has 3 articles on removing paint.
My Web site is still a work in progress but you may find some of the answers
you need there as well as Links to other good sources.
http://www.blazescorner.homestead.com/
Doctor Faust is also another good site. http://www.paintingclinic.com/
There are some more really good sites. I think I've listed several of them
on my links section. You'll find most of these are historical, but painting
tips still work well. The only difference may be if you are painting plastic
or metal. I tend to find that painting and terrain tips end to be universal.
You just adapt the techniques based on what you are painting and your
desired results.
Hope this helps.
--
Check out my web page. It's not much but it's mine. Sign the guest book and
let me know what you think. http://www.blazescorner.homestead.com/
Blaze