How to maintain brush pojnts?
T-SNAKE
far. Obviously paints are important to be the right ones... I picked up
some Reaper (Pro Paints) and some of the reccommended Delta Ceramacoats,
all are nice, and seem to work great for me :) (thanks for the advice
guys and Al) but I've discovered it doesn't matter how good your paints
are if your brushes are freaking out on you :)
The Fine brush, after only two *very* light days of painting is already
having a hard time maintaining it's pointed tip. What gives? Are citadel
brushes just not very good? I know, I guess I should spend more for
brushes than $13 for the 3 brush set... but damn.
Anyway, is there a way to help maintain the point beyond re-creating the
point everytime I wash the brush, as well as when I apply paint to the
brush, I roll the brush to create a point...
thanks,
Chris
Varl
> Anyway, is there a way to help maintain the point beyond re-creating the
> point everytime I wash the brush, as well as when I apply paint to the
> brush, I roll the brush to create a point...
That's the method I use, and if left wet shaped into a point, my brushes
don't fray and hold their shape. Make sure all the paint is out of them, and
roll, roll, roll. That's always worked for me.
--
The best interpretation of a rule is the one you make yourself.
DYE4MINIS
(metal) part. NEVER dip you brush into the jar...you will invariably get paint
into the ferrule. Suggest drawing paint from the lid or a small amount applied
to a plastic pallette. (the lids from peanut, coffee and chip cans work great!)
Another trick is to keep a bar of soap on your table. (Ones from motels work
fine and are priced right!) At the end of your session, roll your bristles into
a lather on the bar. Shape and let the soap dry on the bristle. This serves to
help hold the shape AND acts as a 'wetting" agent , so the paint, next time,
flows from your brush and doesn't soak into the bristles as much. (Assuming you
are using acrylic paints...whatever the brand.)
Hope this helps!
Best,
Tom Dye
GFI
GFI/Minifigs: www.minifigs.com (303)361-6465
Attactix:Bi...@attactix.com (303)699-3349
Makers of Minifigs to the Americas!
Justin Taylor
soap conditions the brushes.
For paint and brushes I would recommend art shops rather than GW.
--
Justin Taylor
Veni Vidi Vici
Quality Transfers
http://www.3vwargames.co.uk
Jim Cowling
>
>The Fine brush, after only two *very* light days of painting is already
>having a hard time maintaining it's pointed tip. What gives? Are citadel
>brushes just not very good? I know, I guess I should spend more for
>brushes than $13 for the 3 brush set... but damn.
That's right -- Citadel brushes aren't very good. They're meant to wear out so
that you'll have to buy more.
However, all nylon brushes will lose their point after a while
(for me, about six months) regardless of how well you treat them (the point
will tend to "hook"); that's the nature of the beast.
I would suggest buying your brushes from an art supply store; anything made of
fake sable (such as "golden taklon", which is nylon) will serve you well.
I would also suggest giving away your Ceramcoat paints; the larger the grain
of the pigment, the more damage they'll do to your brushes.
--
"Gussie it up all you want, Trebek."
Rotwang
> >having a hard time maintaining it's pointed tip. What gives? Are citadel
> >brushes just not very good? I know, I guess I should spend more for
> >brushes than $13 for the 3 brush set... but damn.
>
> That's right -- Citadel brushes aren't very good. They're meant to wear
out so
> that you'll have to buy more.
In all honesty I've never found a Citadel product (primer, brushes, tools)
that I couldn't find a better or cheaper replacement for ... You're just
paying a brand name, nothing else.
> However, all nylon brushes will lose their point after a while
> (for me, about six months) regardless of how well you treat them (the
point
> will tend to "hook"); that's the nature of the beast.
I find that a brush losing its point or having an altered shape is not that
much of a handicap. If you paint regularly you'll know how certain brushes
will behave and still be able to paint properly with it, even if it's badly
distorted ...
Jason Stokes
I don't think Citadel brushes are very good, but there's some basic brush
care tips you should follow. Never "splay" the brush against the pallette
or dip it all the way into a jar of paint, instead let the brush take up
some paint at the tip only. Don't use new brushes for drybrushing or large
undercoats. Always reform the tip after you've finished painting and don't
let a brush stand in a jar of thinner/water. And cover the brushes with the
plastic covers that came with them after use.
You may already be doing this but I've found painting is a fiddly business,
and you need to be fastidious if you don't want to ruin brushes quickly.
Jon Todd
tast that comes from using your tongue, lips and mouth to repoint brushes.
j:)n
Jon Todd
who said acrylics were harmless? they make you drop 'e's....
j:)n
Chris Moran
> I can't believe no one has mentioned the point crafting power and great
> tast that comes from using your tongue, lips and mouth to repoint brushes.
For the record:
I wash my brushes in a cup of water pretty quickly after each color use.
I didn't know about the soap thing. Wouldn't leaving the soap on the
brush add to the thickness of it later, or do you wash it off when
you're about to paint again?
I typically DO use my mouth/tongue to reshape my brushs. It's so easy
and convenient. If I die from it... well, trust me, I do more dangerous
things already :)
I stand the brushes brustles UP in a cup as soon as I wash them.
I only used brushes I specifically bought for dry brushing for that
purpose.
I don't clean the brush by push it against the bottom of the cup. I'd
love to know ythe best method, but I twirl it against hte side of the
cup and rush it back and forth in the water. I then draw it backwards on
a paper towel to get excess water off.
I only dip the tip of the brush in the pain, either into a dab of drop
of paint from the Ceramacoats (which do have the larger particles, but
should be the cause of brush troubles in only two days) and using the
lid frmo the Reapers. Unless I mix colors... which is on a "pallet" of
sorts :)
Anything I'm missing? I might replace my Ceramacoats with more
Reapers... but I just had to try them and the prices are damn nice. they
are not bad paints at all. Obviously not "fine", but getting enough
colors to feel comfortable with could get expensive.
Thanks for all the comments. I'm a reborn mini guy. Don't game with
them, just love the fun of painting them and looking at them (and
hopefully soon making them). My OLd ones are horribly painted and I'd
like this time (about 10-13 years later) to do them right :) (Gallery to
follow as peices get completed).
I only with there was a r.g.m.painting or art (for both painting and
making)
peace,
Chris
--
WWRD - What Would Rob Do?
/___ . . ____ _____ _____ __ . 802.656.0358
/ / | | / __|__ _____ / cmo...@dln.uvm.edu
/ | / | / / http://dln.uvm.edu/cmoran
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a.a.#707 DMDL Computer Lab Coordinator, Webmaster, Geek
Avatar
:
: The Fine brush, after only two *very* light days of painting is already
: brushes just not very good? I know, I guess I should spend more for
: brushes than $13 for the 3 brush set... but damn.
First off, throw away those crappy citadel brushes. Go to your local art
store and buy some decent red sable artist brushes. They cost a little
more, but are definitely worth the cost. Last time I went brush shopping
I bought 8 new brushes and paid $45 (4 for normal colors and 4 for
metallic colors of avoid paint contamination).
: Anyway, is there a way to help maintain the point beyond re-creating the
: point everytime I wash the brush, as well as when I apply paint to the
: brush, I roll the brush to create a point...
Aside from cheap, crappy bristles, the other thing that causes bristle
separation is paint getting down towards the bottom of the bristles.
Don't dip your brush too deeply, and trying to keep tabs on how far down
the brush the paint is pushing. I'm finding that really easy with some of
the lighter bristle brushes I've picked up recently. Keep your eyes open
and if the brush starts to get gummy or the paint starts backing down
towards the bottom, wash the brush and clean it out.
Avatar
Varl
> I can't believe no one has mentioned the point crafting power and great
> tast that comes from using your tongue, lips and mouth to repoint brushes.
Good point. I also do this, though not with enamels. I have a whole set of
separate brushes that are used with enamels that never will see the topside of
my tongue. I have come close to accidentally licking an enamel brush before,
though, out of habit Heh. I think that's why I changed to two sets of brushes.
Mmmm, good acetone....
Andy O'Neill
p...@deletetatsu.dyndns.org> writes
>I figured I was doing a smart thing by buying Citadel brushes
Nope, you're doing the over-priced-being-ripped-off thing.
Buy kolinsky sable brushes if you like high quality ones. I get them
for in the order of 2.50 (GBP) for a size 2.
Historex agents, they advertise in military modelling.
Actually, the postage is 30p (IIRC) per brush, so you could possibly
also buy yours there.
<shrug>
Largely speaking, I find I can get away with a pretty big brush for most
25s and above.
I use a cheap Humbrol one for most work.
They're something like 50p.
If your brushes lose their point dead quick... you're doing something
wrong. Letting some paint dry on em whilst painting or after is one
possibility.
Change your water often.
Mix paint with a toothpick, transfer to a pallet and then use your
brush.
Usually paint should be thinned.
Use as big a brush as you can get away with.
Always wash your brush out in running water straight after you finished.
If you stick your head in really hot water, it'll stuff your skin and
hair. Guess what happens to a brush treated the same.
You might consider trying fabric conditioner. One of our members swears
by it, can't say I see much positive effect. I paint a lot. A brush
lasts me about 6 months usually.
Andy O'Neill
www.l-25.demon.co.uk/index.htm
Liverpool Wargames Association
www.l-25.demon.co.uk/LWA.htm
John Lee
the end of the brush to hook. It must be the sorta hook stroke of the
wiping motion that causes this. I tested this theory out, I used two
identical brushes, one I wiped on a paper towel, the other I didn't. The
paper towel one "hooked" in a short while, the other remained in good
condition.
John Lee
JWirth4702
I find licking the brush after cleaning helps it dry in shape. Pointed for
round and flat for flat.
But look at how we paint miniatures. We dont stroke like on a canvas. We poke
the hell out of an area till its covered. This is the reason (in my never
humble opinion) why a brush 'hooks'.
I will also say (based on over 22 years [12 professional]) that --- Nylon
brushes are by far the best for painting miniatures!!!
Befor the flame starts. Sable brushes are great. I love Windsor & Newton series
7 line. But not for figs.
You must buy quality nylon brushes ($6 - $10) BTW check our brush line at:
www.renaissanceink.net
I paint an average of 5 hours DAILY. I have two employees that paint 30 hours
each week. We are talking mundreds of figs a month. We only change our brushes
about 6 - 8 weeks. This also doesnt show that the 8 week old round #1 is now
doing wash duty for another 8 weeks (on average).
Other habbits I observe:
:If I must whipe a brush on a towel. I use a towel in my lap. I think terri
cloth on a uneven serface is better than a napkin on a table top.
: Wipeing off paint for drybrushing? I use my left hand (area between the
knickles of my thimb and first finger). Again a more forgiving area to rub a
brush accross - not a hard cloth on a table.
: Learn to take the correct amount of paint. Dont do the dip and drag the brush
on the lip of the pallet to remove excess. - Thats just dumb!!
Check out some painting articles at our web site: www.renaissanceink.net
Jay Wirth
Renaissance Ink
Member GPA
T-SNAKE
> : Learn to take the correct amount of paint. Dont do the dip and drag the brush
> on the lip of the pallet to remove excess. - Thats just dumb!!
What about drawing the brush across the pallet? I tend to put a small
amount on the brush and if I feel it's too much, drag it across the
pallet to thin the amount out... but I also twirl while I do it to get
the tip back sometimes.
I will look into better brushes. It's a shame to have the brushes foul
so quick.
thanks,
Chris
JWirth4702
>
>What about drawing the brush across the pallet? I tend to put a small
>amount on the brush and if I feel it's too much, drag it across the
>pallet to thin the amount out... but I also twirl while I do it to get
>the tip back sometimes.
>
>I will look into better brushes. It's a shame to have the brushes foul
>so quick.
Yes, in my never humble opinion - Thats dumb also ;-)
David Lent
water between colors and drag it across an old t-shirt while slowly
rotating it. I paint over 150 figures a week and I haven't needed to
buy any brushes in close to six months. I use natural hair sables.
If your wondering why, it's because they stay wet longer than nylon
brushes. They act like a weak sponge. I think sables have been
unfairly given a bad name. This is just my opinion though. Your
mileage may vary.....
David Lent
when using acrylic is to wash it in hot water. Always use cold or
lukewarm water. Acrylic has plastic in it which will bond with the
brush if it is overheated.