[PAINT] How-to paint!
John Hwang
advice, but always good for reference and the discussion it
stimulates. Obviously, it's Warhammer 40k-based, but the tools and
techniques hold just as well for miscellaneous minis as Warhammer (40k)
minis.
/John
________
Here's my version of the basics on painting. I've certainly painted
enough minis (500+) and armies (Eldar, Chaos, Marines, Sisters,
Imperial Guard, Orks) for myself and customers to know what I'm talking
about.
First, you need to make a couple of important decisions right off the
bat. Are you going to paint Dark and Realistic, or Bright and
Fantastic? This will affect how you go about things.
0. Supplies
Get the following: Hobby knife, needle files (various), epoxy putty,
water-based paint, and a set [2, 1, 0, 00 (2/0), 000 (3/0), 5/0, and
10/0] of *good* brushes. The knife and files are to clean up molding
imperfections like mold lines and stuff like that; also to file rough
spots smooth. Epoxy putty is to fill gaps and voids caused by air
bubbles and whatnot. Water-based paint is a godsend for cleanup and
brush longevity -- you'll still have to use solvent once in a while,
but you don't need it *every* time you paint. Spray Primer. Pin vise
and brass rod.
As for paint, there are a lot of opinions. Here's what I've found:
Ral Partha, Armoury, and *current* GW "screw-top" paint is all CRAP.
All enamel and acrylic enamal paint is CRAP. I use and recommend the
*OLD* GW "pop-top" paint (if you can obtain a set), Floquil/Polly S,
and Badger acrylics. One thing's for sure, you're going to need a lot
of paint colors. I'd guess at least 16 colors (I have over twice that
many pots of paint). You don't need to get Inks, Glazes, or Washes.
But it won't hurt.
And finally, be sure to get spray primer. I like GW Primer over
Armoury Primer -- GW's black is actually black, not a dark grey. OTOH,
there have been a lot of reports of problems (gritty, rough finishes)
with most recent batches of GW Primer. Yeah, people use white primer,
too, but I'm actually not such a great fan; White primer is for Bright
and Fantastic models, and I paint Dark and Realistic.
If you have multi-part models, get a pin vise and some brass rod. Two
sizes: 3/64" and 1/32". 1/32" is easier to work with, but 3/64" is
stronger. 1/16" would be reserved for really big stuff, like Dragon
Wings. 1/64" is for tiny stuff, like weapons into hands. Most of my
pinning is done with 3/64" brass rod.
1. Plan
Make a plan of what to paint. I recommend saving your best models for
last. I know you'll be *sorely* tempted to ignore me here, and jump
immediately on that limited-issue Ancient Great Dragon. Don't do it.
It'll look terrible and you be greatly disappointed. Instead, start
with something simple, small, and ugly -- I'd recommend a basic monster
like an Ork or Goblin. Plan to paint in groups of 5-10 *similar*
models, starting in smaller groups. After you get a few under your
belt, it'd be OK to throw in something "special", simply for variety.
But remember to save your best models until you have an idea of what
you're doing.
The more models and *kinds* of models you paint, the better you'll
get. Your first batches of models are going to end up pretty bad.
Sorry. But that's how you're going to learn. If you're so motiviated
(about a year from now), you can strip and repaint them later.
There's been a debate in RGMW over the "right" number of basic, non-
detail colors to use. It's all up to you, but fewer colors will tend
to be darker and more serious. Fewer colors, with shading,
highlighting, and washes will usually look better than more flat
colors. Experiment here.
I've found anywhere from 2-4 basic colors seems to work fine, depending
on the model. A basic color is anything which you can see from across
the room. 2-4 detail colors seems to be a good way to go as well.
Detail colors are things which are sharp when you hold the model in
your hand. When in doubt, paint one model until you like it, then
duplicate the paint job. If you have throwaway models, this is what
they're good for.
2. Prep
If you need to strip old paint or primer, do it now. I soak both
plastic and metal models in a Castrol Super Clean solution when I need
to strip paint or primer. Chemically, the active ingredient is "Sodium
Hydroxide" (NaOH), commonly known as "lye".
File off mold lines and other such stuff. If it needs pinning, now's
the time to do it. Pins should be at least twice as deep as the
diameter, preferably three (or four) times the diameter for greater
strength.
Straighten spears and swords and whatnot. Flatten feet as necessary.
If you do this after painting, the paint will just flake off.
3. Prime
Spray lightly. You want a uniform color. If you can't get all of it,
that's fine too. Just touch it up with your big brush before you start
painting seriously.
If priming shows it needs re-prep, or the priming went badly, fix it
now: strip the primer, re-prep as necessary, and re-prime.
4. Paint
You will find your own ways of doing things here. Major basic
techniques:
Drybrushing usually saves time for textured stuff like fur and hair.
Starting with black, one puts a bit of paint on the brush, and drags it
over the surface. Then bit less paint in a lighter shade, and an even
smaller amount of paint in an even lighter shade.
Painting and Inking works for paneled things. Other stuff can be
painted, then crevices wetly inked with black or a much darker shade,
then panel centers drybrushed with the original or somewhat lighter
shade. Most metal and armour can be done this way.
Washing with black, brown, etc. works well for big metal surfaces.
Paint it all a basic metal color. Then wash it with thinned down
black. The black should work it's way into the crevices, taking down
the brightness and picking out the detail. Drybrush lightly with the
metallic paint when it's all dry to pick up the raised detail. BTW,
you can also wash metallics with colors other than black to
differentiate different types of weapons -- I use blue for Power
weapons, red for Force weapons.
Washing with color works for cloth. Drybrush dark grey, light grey,
and white. Then heavily wash the entire surface with colored ink.
This may take a couple coats until you get the color you like.
Mottling with different colors usually saves time for camoflague
patterns (e.g. woodland in greens, urban in greys, desert in tans).
Starting with a base color, use a cut-down brush and dab
overlapping "splotches" of a lighter and a darker color, finishing
with the base color again. Smaller, tighter patterns generally look
better than larger, bolder patterns -- remember that the pattern is
supposed to be scaled down to about 1/64th normal size...
Patterning (e.g. "splinter", "ambush", and "tiger stripe" camoflague;
harlequin diamonds) is *extremely* time-consuming to paint. But the
fine detail makes them visually impressive showcases of painting skill,
especially in large groups. Penciling in guide lines is *very*
helpful... Save these (or at least the final patterning) for last,
after you've got a bunch of regular (or basic) models painted. I have
one platoon in tiger stripe camoflague, and that's enough for me.
Experiment a lot. You *will* have to touch-up a bit after any washing
or drybrushing. That's OK.
5. Base the models.
Here, it's merely a question of how much time you want to
spend "finishing" the model. Various approaches include:
Painting the base. Simplest and fastest approach, but not especially
impressive to look at.
Flocking the entire top surface with colored foam "foliage"
or "grass". The edge is painted in a related color. This is best for
simulating the grassy lawns which GW seems to love having battles on.
This is also relatively simple and fast, but I also find this
relatively unimpressive to look at.
Texturing by gluing sand or gravel to the base with white glue;
painting and highlighting when dry (this can take a while). This is
best for simulating sand, asphalt, rubble, soil, etc. I think this is
the minimum for a decent-looking base.
Adding flock foliage over a textured surface gives a "natural" base,
but is very time-consuming. But if you're going for a natural-
looking , super-realistic, and/or model railroad effect here, this is
the way to go. This is good for simulating woodlands, swamps, marshes,
scrubland, etc. I've decided on using natural bases for the vast
majority of my models.
And of course, there are the "scenic" bases which GW loves, featuring
painted skeletons, helmets, and whatnot added onto the base. How much
time *do* you have, anyways??? BTW, if your bases are looking better
than your models, perhaps you're spending too much time basing... I
reserve the scenic touches for commander-type models.
FWIW, I'm *very* far behind on my basing, but at least I'm all but
fully painted...
--
--- John Hwang "J_H...@my-deja.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/
Lost Dragon
> advice, but always good for reference and the discussion it
> stimulates. Obviously, it's Warhammer 40k-based, but the tools and
That is good stuff.
Here are some additional resources.
http://roleplaygames.about.com/games/roleplaygames/library/weekly/aa032898.htm?t
erms=Miniatures+Exposed
http://roleplaygames.about.com/games/roleplaygames/library/weekly/aa040498.htm?t
erms=Miniatures+Exposed%21
http://roleplaygames.about.com/games/roleplaygames/library/weekly/aa041298.htm?t
erms=Miniatures+Exposed%21
http://home.pacbell.net/lnlcoolj/Hot_Lead/start/paint_guide_main.htm
http://roleplaygames.about.com/games/roleplaygames/cs/miniatures/index.htm
http://www.minitaly.com/paolo/index_e.shtml
--
Lost Dragon. UDIC. http://www.lostdragon.com/
Some see a glass half empty - others see a glass
half full. I see a man who thirsts no more.
Robert Rossney
news:92bl5r$do8$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
[much good stuff snipped]
> As for paint, there are a lot of opinions. Here's what I've found:
> Ral Partha, Armoury, and *current* GW "screw-top" paint is all CRAP.
> All enamel and acrylic enamal paint is CRAP. I use and recommend the
> *OLD* GW "pop-top" paint (if you can obtain a set), Floquil/Polly S,
> and Badger acrylics.
The only paints I have to work with are GW screw-top paints and a small set
of Polly S paints that I found in a hobby shop. I do like painting with the
Polly S paints more -- the colors seem more subtle and interesting. But I'm
not sure I'd call the GW paints CRAP. On the other hand, I haven't painted
anywhere near as many figs as you. So why do you think they're crap? I'm
curious.
Bob Rossney
r...@well.com
Lost Dragon
> > *OLD* GW "pop-top" paint (if you can obtain a set), Floquil/Polly S,
Old GW? The Citadel stuff?
http://www.brookhursthobbies.com/
You can buy it there. It's called Coat D'arms now I'm told..
John Hwang
The new GW paints are expensive and small. They dry out too quickly,
making it hard to blend and maix. And they have the truly annoying
habit of practically welding themselves shut in very short order; when
I want to paint, I don't want to have to break out vise-grips just to
open the lousy bottles.
th...@flash.net
John Hwang <j_h...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> "Robert Rossney" <r...@well.com> wrote:
> > "John Hwang" <j_h...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
> > news:92bl5r$do8$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
> >
> > [much good stuff snipped]
> >
> > > As for paint, there are a lot of opinions. Here's what I've
> > > found: Ral Partha, Armoury, and *current* GW "screw-top" paint is
> > > all CRAP. All enamel and acrylic enamal paint is CRAP. I use and
> > > recommend the *OLD* GW "pop-top" paint (if you can obtain a set),
> > > Floquil/Polly S, and Badger acrylics.
> >
> > The only paints I have to work with are GW screw-top paints and a
> > small set of Polly S paints that I found in a hobby shop. I do like
> > painting with the Polly S paints more -- the colors seem more subtle
> > and interesting. But I'm not sure I'd call the GW paints CRAP. On
> > the other hand, I haven't painted anywhere near as many figs as you.
> > So why do you think they're crap? I'm curious.
>
> The new GW paints are expensive and small. They dry out too quickly,
> making it hard to blend and maix. And they have the truly annoying
> habit of practically welding themselves shut in very short order;
when
> I want to paint, I don't want to have to break out vise-grips just to
> open the lousy bottles.
>
I think GW paints suck with 2 exceptions - Flesh Wash (great for wood
washes, just never use for flesh) and Burnished Gold. The new screw tops
were cleverly designed to both weld the tops on AND leave an air gap to
dry them out quickly (related problem - the caps don't seal). I'm told
that if you put a little vaseline or lip balm on the threads both
problems are solved.
I like RP and Reaper paints otherwise. I've seen people who get awesome
results with enamel, and enamel is a heck of a lot more chip resistant
afterwards. I don't use it myself though.
For a painting guide with pictures, go to
:http://www.thanesgames.com/aoasupport/painting/paintingtut1.html
and the mass painting guide at
http://www.thanesgames.com/aoasupport/painting/paintingtut2.html
Thane Morgan
www.thanesgames.com
Brandi Weed
> found: Ral Partha, Armoury, and *current* GW "screw-top" paint is
> all CRAP. All enamel and acrylic enamal paint is CRAP. I use and
> recommend the *OLD* GW "pop-top" paint (if you can obtain a set),
> Floquil/Polly S, and Badger acrylics.
To whoever wrote this (the layered attributions were confusing me): what
particular problems have you had with Partha and Armoury paints? My
husband and I have jars of it here and it seems to work just fine.
Brandi [on the other hand, we're not hardcore blenders.]
Bagheera
I'm working on tiger striping myself, I would be interested in seeing
how others do it (I'm kind of disappointed with what I have so far and
I need referential inspiration).
--
Bagherra <jaebear @ frenzy.com>
http://www.frenzy.com/~jaebear
"There is no spoon."
John Hwang
> [John Hwang <j_h...@my-deja.com> wrote:]
> > As for paint, there are a lot of opinions. Here's what I've
> > found: Ral Partha, Armoury, and *current* GW "screw-top" paint is
> > all CRAP. All enamel and acrylic enamal paint is CRAP. I use and
> > recommend the *OLD* GW "pop-top" paint (if you can obtain a set),
> > Floquil/Polly S, and Badger acrylics.
>
> To whoever wrote this (the layered attributions were confusing me):
That would be me, as re-attributed above.
> what particular problems have you had with Partha
I find that the Ral Partha paint comes out too "chalky" for my tastes,
so the paint finish just doesn't work for me.
> and Armoury paints?
I find that the Armoury paint doesn't finish well with the spray primer
which use -- it just didn't paint up and layer up nicely.
> My husband and I have jars of it here and it seems to work just
> fine.
> Brandi [on the other hand, we're not hardcore blenders.]
Hey, if they're working for you, that's great, and you should stick
with them!
But these brands just don't work for me, based on the painting
techniques I use and the finish I want.
--
--- John Hwang "J_H...@my-deja.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
John Hwang
> I'm working on tiger striping myself, I would be interested in
> seeing how others do it (I'm kind of disappointed with what I have
> so far and I need referential inspiration).
Unfortunately, I don't have a digital camera, so I can't show you. But
here's what I do:
I prime the figure black and get out my 5/0 or a 10/0 brushes; all of
stripes are very fine, and "jagged".
1. Initial stripes are dark green/olive drab to give some "texture".
2. Next stripe is in neutral green, lightly and very fine.
3. Then stripe in black.
4. Then re-stripe in dark green.
IMHO, the key to having tiger stripe camo look good is the 3rd color,
and defining a clear "grain" to the pattern.
Good luck!
--
--- John Hwang "J_H...@my-deja.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Bagheera
John Hwang <j_h...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> Bagheera, the jungle scout <bagh...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> > I'm working on tiger striping myself, I would be interested in
> > seeing how others do it (I'm kind of disappointed with what I have
> > so far and I need referential inspiration).
>
> Unfortunately, I don't have a digital camera, so I can't show you.
But
> here's what I do:
>
> I prime the figure black and get out my 5/0 or a 10/0 brushes; all of
> stripes are very fine, and "jagged".
>
> 1. Initial stripes are dark green/olive drab to give some "texture".
> 2. Next stripe is in neutral green, lightly and very fine.
> 3. Then stripe in black.
> 4. Then re-stripe in dark green.
>
> IMHO, the key to having tiger stripe camo look good is the 3rd color,
> and defining a clear "grain" to the pattern.
>
> Good luck!
I'm just doing black on orange.
I actually was wondering about what was a good way to determine
a "good" method for the geometry of striping.
--
Bagherra <jaebear @ frenzy.com>
http://www.frenzy.com/~jaebear
"There is no spoon."
Paul Ashton
Base Coat: White
Paint Orange.
Wash coat of GW "flesh wash" (medium brown ink)
Dry brush orange lightened with yellow
Dry brush orange lightened even more by yellow.
Stripes
Dark Brown. Starting from the top of the back do a thin stripe downwards
(not straight down) narrowing as it ends which is about 3/4 of the way down.
Then from the bottom of the tiger do a stripe along side similarly going
upwards finishing 3/4 of the way up. Next strip along is downwards etc.
When you turn the tiger round the stripes should meet across the top of the
back. Make sure you do not create a regular pattern. These stripes should
change direction a little and not be too straight.
Paul
Amazon Miniatures
http://www.amazonminiatures.fsnet.co.uk
<Bagheera>; the jungle scout <bagh...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:92o8sh$ob3$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
John Hwang
> John Hwang <j_h...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> > Bagheera, the jungle scout <bagh...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> > > I'm working on tiger striping myself, I would be interested in
> > > seeing how others do it (I'm kind of disappointed with what I
> > > have so far and I need referential inspiration).
> >
> > Unfortunately, I don't have a digital camera, so I can't show you.
> > But here's what I do:
> >
> > I prime the figure black and get out my 5/0 or a 10/0 brushes;
> > all of stripes are very fine, and "jagged".
> >
> > 1. Initial stripes are dark green/olive drab to give some "texture".
> > 2. Next stripe is in neutral green, lightly and very fine.
> > 3. Then stripe in black.
> > 4. Then re-stripe in dark green.
> >
> > IMHO, the key to having tiger stripe camo look good is the 3rd
> > color, and defining a clear "grain" to the pattern.
> >
> > Good luck!
>
> I'm just doing black on orange.
Like hunting camo with the blaze orange?
> I actually was wondering about what was a good way to determine
> a "good" method for the geometry of striping.
Oh. There are lots of military uniform guides available -- Osprey
publishes them, so that'd be my recommendation for a place to start.
The problem is that scaling the pattern down to 1/64 is difficult
because the pattern becomes too complex and too small to paint and just
takes too long. And even if you did paint it to scale, it doesn't look
right due to scale paradoxes, because the eye can't quite pick out the
striping when it gets that small -- it'll just be a blur of the colors
involved. So you sort of have to split the difference, with a somewhat
larger and bolder pattern which the eye can recognize. It took me a
couple tries to get the pattern right.
So once again, good luck!
--
--- John Hwang "J_H...@my-deja.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Paul M. M. Jacobus
> I'm just doing black on orange.
> I actually was wondering about what was a good way to determine a
> "good" method for the geometry of striping.
Check out the The Jungle, a hexcellent 40k website with a homegrown Marine
chapter, the Tigers of Veda. He discusses the very topic of striping
geometry in relation to painting:
http://www.thewarp.net/war/tigersofveda/
JD