what paints....?
Anonymous
less expensive stuff from the craft store and the stuff was lousy (no
surprise, but it didn't cost much to try). I've tried Polly Scale and the
stuff was like colored water. That did hurt 'cuz it was $4.00 for a 1-oz.
bottle.
Can anyone recommend a good brand in the States, or is everyone using
oil-based paints?
TK
Andy
Very few people use oils for wargames figures.
Big names you should be able to get are Liquitex and Andrea/Vallejo.
There are also a couple of cheap art paints I use - Inscribe and
andrea's acrylics. Come in sort of squeegy bottles.
I don't like tamiya or humbrol acrylics, although there are two useful
colours in humbrol for dunkelgelb and the green which is the best
approximation I've seen to field grey.. for most of the war.
MltryHstrn
I would recommend two companies paints - Vallejo and Andrea. Both are accurate
colors although the Napoleonic Blue (Andrea) is really almost the cornflower
blue worn by the Bavarians. While a bit expensive both cover well and are
designed with the gamer/modeler in mind. There are others but these are two
that appear prominently on my painting table.
Regards,
Jerry
WARGAMING
excellent hue. However, both are very thin and you must seal them or you will
have problems with rub off. Figure Flat is not enough you must use a gloss,
satin or matte sealer that will create a shell prior to your Figure Flat if you
use it.
Good Luck
DDetmer89
need only one coat, and have a lot of colors. They are used in the movie
industry for painting vinyal cels for cartoons. Also used for backdrops and
models in the industry. You can find them on the web. The company is on the net
under "Cartoon Colors" The come in soft plastic bottles of 2oz. which will last
a long time. As far as authentic colors, well you have to mix. But as far as
that goes, vegtable dyes, time and wear, differnt manufacters, and such. There
is no such thing as authentic. Colors would vary from day to day. And I mean
big differences. The same outfit could have noticable differences. Don't get to
hung up on that.
RJS
Blitzpainting
proceedure ( well it is too me ) and that is the priming. Bad priming will
nearly always result in a bad finish.
Make sure you use a very fine undercoat that doesnt leave a sand paper
effect. I personally give each figure 2 very watered down black washes.
Regards
Daryl
"DDetmer89" <ddet...@aol.com> wrote in message
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Anonymous
I'll go try Liquitex. Liquitex is the stuff we used in art classes in
college.
I don't remember seeing Andrea/Vallejo here (Indianapolis) before. If anyone
knows someplace in central Indiana where these can be found, please let me
know.
Most of the hobby stores here have Modelmaster and Citadel (in addition to
the colored water that is Polly S). Anyone care to comment on Modelmaster or
Citadel?
TK
"MltryHstrn" <mltry...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020924085330...@mb-bj.aol.com...
DDetmer89
do though). The reason people started the priming was because of lead rot. The
interaction between the lead and the enamal paints caused lead rot. Since there
is no interaction between lead and water based paints, the original reason is
gone. However, today priming serves a differnt purpose. Painting the figure
with a prime gives a less slippery surface for the base coat to stick to, using
a color allows you to see shadows that a metal finish dosn't show. I use white
cartoon color as a primer which also increases the brillince of the top coats.
R.
John
> Thanks for the tips everyone. I'll try to find Andrea/Vallejo. Failing
that,
> I'll go try Liquitex. Liquitex is the stuff we used in art classes in
> college.
>
> I don't remember seeing Andrea/Vallejo here (Indianapolis) before. If
anyone
> knows someplace in central Indiana where these can be found, please let me
> know.
>
> Most of the hobby stores here have Modelmaster and Citadel (in addition to
> the colored water that is Polly S). Anyone care to comment on Modelmaster
or
> Citadel?
I use Modelmaster for some parts of my Vietnam minis and the GZG stargrunt
line. I do find the MM2 range works better for airbrushing and doesn't
cover well using a brush (the German Uniform Gray was horrible).
Personally, I like the greens over any other MM colors for uniforms. I can
do a bunch at once without mixing. They can dry with a gloss and aren't as
nice to use as Humbrol but the convenience of finding them almost anywhere
is appealing. They do need to be well shaken and clean-up isn't nearly as
easy as with acrylics. For mixing I use the "Hobby paint shaker" from
Robart. It works with almost all paint bottles and does a fairly good job
with out using a lot of space.
Kreepykoop
easier even for a distinctly amateur painter like me who is too lazy to mix own
shades.
The new Foundry paint range is also, I believe, worth a look.
Andy
Duncan MacLeod
that,
> I'll go try Liquitex. Liquitex is the stuff we used in art classes in
> college.
>
> I don't remember seeing Andrea/Vallejo here (Indianapolis) before. If
anyone
> knows someplace in central Indiana where these can be found, please let me
> know.
>
> Most of the hobby stores here have Modelmaster and Citadel (in addition to
> the colored water that is Polly S). Anyone care to comment on Modelmaster
or
> Citadel?
>
> TK
Games Workshop/Citadel's paints - well, you can walk in and buy them - I do
like the comments form some staff in the shop when they find that I amn't
painting something by GW. yup, your paints are compatible with other figure
manufacturers [now there's a horrible thought - paint 'system' that only
works for your own figures].
I've a pile of them on the trolley - I use Chaos Black for primer/undercoat,
then dry brush with Fortress Grey. The Scorched Brown is a good dark brown
(can never have too many different browns or greens). And a whole other pile
of colours - some are okay, others not. I found their Orck Green too
translucent, but maybe they've sorted that design feature.
Some suffer from the 'drying out' problem - but that isn't peculiar to
Citadel.
I've a pile of others and recently treated myself to some Vallejo paints.
I'm impressed with them.
I've a Liquitex concentrated Artis Color Acrylic Hooker's Green for bases
(big tub, covered lots of bases), but found the Daler-Rowney version of
Hooker's Green looked better on the bases - usually over textured Basetex or
similar. Then drybrushed with Citadel Goblin Green and finally Colour Party
Yellow (thicker consistency tahn Citadel).
Still can't paint properly, no matter what paints or brushes I have ;-(
Duncan
Kreepykoop
Andy
<<>>
> I've a Liquitex concentrated Artis Color Acrylic Hooker's Green for bases
> (big tub, covered lots of bases), but found the Daler-Rowney version of
> Hooker's Green looked better on the bases - usually over textured Basetex or
> similar. Then drybrushed with Citadel Goblin Green and finally Colour Party
> Yellow (thicker consistency tahn Citadel).
Interesting.
I use colour party paints for military colours where their
translucency suits my pre-shading technique well.
For best looking yellow, I use liquitex.
White undercoat.
Orange yellow into lo-lights, yellow over rest and the lemon on
highlights.
Perhaps a white dry brush and then lemon yellow glaze over top
highlights again.
> Still can't paint properly, no matter what paints or brushes I have ;-(
>
> Duncan
What goes wrong?
Perhaps we can try make helpful suggestions.
Duncan MacLeod
"Andy" <ao...@lycos.co.uk> wrote in message
news:553b50a7.02092...@posting.google.com...
Thanks for the offer, Andy, but I've already picked up a lot of advice from
the list (including your hints on painting 15mm figs). The grey dry-brushing
came from this ng AFAIR.
What I do is 'okay' eg http://www.dimacleod.co.uk/history/arthurian3.jpg
but it's not what I'd like them to look like, ie
http://www.davidimrie.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/shields.gif
Patience, skill and lack of artistic talent.
But I usually find the task relaxing. When I think of it as a chore, I just
wheel them back into the spare room until I get into the mood (or I require
the units completed and based before next week's game).
Duncan
Joe Hlebasko
In Indinanaoplis, checkout the "Board Room" in Broad Ripple. They are in
yellow pages, I think they have a web page but I do not have the URL. They
stock the entire Vallejo line. I am slowly moving over to this line of
paint.
--
Joe Hlebasko
"Anonymous" <j...@home.com> wrote in message
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snh9728
your colors are more intense than those of your "like them to look like"
ideal. Perhaps you should tone down your colors a bit by mixing in just
a bit of their opposite on the color wheel?
Steve H
Duncan MacLeod
using the paint 'out of the bottle'. Any subduing being done by a black
wash. Very lazy of me.
I'm doing more dry-brushing now, and the Vallejo paints over the grey
background gives a more subdued appearance.
Duncan
"snh9728" <steven....@boeing.com> wrote in message
news:3D946767...@boeing.com...
Andy
> your colors are more intense than those of your "like them to look like"
> ideal. Perhaps you should tone down your colors a bit by mixing in just
> a bit of their opposite on the color wheel?
>
> Steve H
Some thoughts......
Yep, particularly noticeable on the likes of them light blue trousers.
I'd suggest lob a bit of white or a neutral dried-mud like colour like
"nubby linen" into the base colour and highlight.
The latter will make your guys look a bit more like they spent the
previous night under a hedge than down the laundrette.
Dark ages clothes are bound to be very subdued in colour compared to
modern day ones. Dyes.
The amount of efort in making a garment by hand is also huge and
people just couldn't afford a wardrobe full of clothes unless they had
an empire...
Glossy varnish will tend to increase the impact of bright colours and
a more subdued look seems to be what you're after.
Another thing immediately apparent is the difference in groundwork
techniques.
When you look at figures from above and a bit away, groundwork is
particularly noticeable.
On the subject of immediately apparent.
One trick that is used by pro painters is to give someone something to
look at when they look closely at figures.
It'll then catch the eye and they'll notice that rather than the
crossed-eyes or scratches or whatever.
Shield patterns are easy, via transfers...
But you can put patches on clothes, a pattern around a hem, bandage on
the odd guy in a unit. That sort of thing.
If you see the gripping beast stand at a con or an ad in a mag.
Spend some time looking at the colours and tricks the guy uses.
HTH
Pete LaPlaca
quite well. It's one of the more expensive acrylics (1-1.25 bottle/.59 on
sale)that you find at craft stores. Other more professional paints I use are
Howard Hues and Polly-S brands. Very good.
Good luck.
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