Dirk <Dirk_L...@nospamemail.msn.com> wrote in message news:3b1991ae$1...@Usenet.com...
Mike MacGillivray has compiled the method he uses and it's available at
http://199.242.194.151/comments/paint1.html for reading. There's also
lots of pics on the other pages of our site. Just remember one thing-
paint to please yourself, nobody else. There's always someone who will
want to tell you how to do your figures "properly". The only one you
have to please is yourself.
Dal.
--
http://www.wargamesreview.com
http://www0.delphi.com/napwar/
I find that 15s are so small all you need is appropriate shading, I do:
a) undercoat black & then damp brush white to pick up the highlights
(otherwise you sometimes get a greenish tinge to lighter colours)
b) overall flesh colour (I generally use GW Bronzed Flesh) - you get a bit
of shading due to black/white undercoat at this stage
c) wash of Windsor & Newton peat brown ink (this is very dark brown)
d) I drybrush the whole figure in light sand - this picks out highlights
like noses, fingers etc as well
Looks good enough.
Cheers
Martin.
In 15mil, once on the table.
How could you see realistic looking faces?
Mix some thinned johnson's Klear ( floor varnish ) in with your wash, or
some car screen-wash (isopropyl alcohol) to reduce surface tension and
this should work fine.
Or use the pre-shading technique outlined on my page +- the above.
Andy O'Neill
www.l-25.demon.co.uk/index.htm
Liverpool Wargames Association
www.l-25.demon.co.uk/LWA.htm