Colonial Skirmish Rules- Suggestions?
Brett Drake
which I gather is about 19th century colonial battles (foreign legion,
Zulus, etc..). I understand this is a skirmish game (1 man = 1 figure). Any
one know about this game? any good? are there any other better
games for this kind of thing?
While I'm here- I just bought some little 20mm platic Zulus and Legionairres,
and was planning on priming them with spray and them acrylic painting them and
basing them on pennies. Apart from being careful to wash off the oil on the
figs, do I do this any differently than I would with lead???
Thanks.
Rick Keir
(Brett Drake) wrote:
> While I'm here- I just bought some little 20mm platic Zulus and Legionairres,
> and was planning on priming them with spray and them acrylic painting them and
> basing them on pennies. Apart from being careful to wash off the oil on the
> figs, do I do this any differently than I would with lead???
[WARNING: What follows will horrify anyone who likes good
paint jobs. My recommendations are based on the feeling
that these plastic figures are not worth a good paint job,
but that they nevertheless look better than bits of cardboard
marker when you're gaming. I have yet to find anyone who
will claim they know how to paint them so that the paint
job will withstand actual use as gaming figures; they are
very flexible and have a strong tendency to flake/crack if
handled.
I'd love to hear from others about their successes in painting
and using these figures.]
For those who haven't seen these figures (Airfix/ESCI/Atlantic)
they're some kind of flexible plastic stuff sold as toy soldiers,
but with a decent amount of detail molded into them & a cheap price.
They are usually incredibly greasy with some kind of mold-release
that doesn't come off in soap & water, or alcohol, or a number of
other things I've tried.
They make decent supplemental figures. I got them for
colonials; "small" 25 mm British figures in lead
get decent paint jobs (I can use them for multiple
locales), while the opposing "native hordes" are
20 mm plastic figures with some supplemental 25 mm lead
figures for cavalry & leaders. Basically, the less you
care about a good-looking uniform on the figure, the
more likely it is you can use the plastic one.
Here's my current solution:
Soak them in Pine Sol or another pine-oil based cleaner for a
LONG time. I've left them in for a week or more with no ill effects.
They eventually lose the greasy feel.
Prime them. I usually use a black spray primer; it's better
suited for the quick-and-dirty paint jobs that these figures
can support.
The Arabic figures in the generic Arab/Pakistani/Afghan box
look ok with a white coat over the white primer, and then
I put a brown ink stain on top of that.
Zulus get a brown "rust coat" primer & a white shield surface
to start with.
Paint them quickly. An oil-paint marker helps here; the
silver & gold ones can do quick touchups on metal surfaces
and a white one gives you some quick undercoating for any
color that doesn't work well over a black primer coat.
Use some kind of flexible acrylic paint to finish them.
Ceramcoat (a cheap acrylic) seems to work slightly better than "model"
quality paints, but this may be an illusion; by the time I tried
it, I had more experience than I had earlier, and
Accurail (a very thin acrylic marketed for model railroad use)
seems to work well; I theorize that this is because it is means
to put be ready-to-airbrush right out of the bottle, and meant to
go on in an ultra-thin layer, unlike the typical consistency of many
acrylics marketed for figure-painting.
Spray them with a fixative; the usual recommendation is a gloss
coat fixative first; then (if you want) a matte finish like
Testor's Dull-Cote. Many people have claimed that Dull-Cote
by itself is noticeably less sturdy than Dull-Cote applied
over a gloss finish.
Good luck!
Jonathan Oldham
Marshall <tmar...@morgan.ucs.mun.ca> wrote:
> As a gamer who fights only with plastic figures (and there's at least one
> other guy from the old r.g.m. - can't remember his name, darn, where *are*
> one's allies when you need them!) I can agree with some of Rick's
> criticisms (paint flaking off, primarily). However, I would much rather
> toss my plastic casualties into a tray (for the body count!) then do the
> same with metal figs.
> As for painting, I rarely wash my Airfix/Revell stuff (or even prime).
> If you are careful (and we have various house rules on precautions) they
> can last.
I'm another plastic enthusiast. I have wargame armies from ancient to
modern and all are plastic. (exceptions: AWI mokawks by Scruby and ral
partha cretans). and I dont really ever seem to have a problem with the
paint. The old Airfix figs could sometimes be a pain because they seemed
to have an excess of oil, and getting Polly-S water based paint to adhere
to them could be annoying.
I use regular dish detergent(Joy for that lemony fresh smell:)) for
washing my figs and never seem to have serious problems. Maybe some the
flaking of weapons but thats a minor problem. And I only undercoat when
the color of the plastic will bleed through the lighter shades of paint.
Why do the plastic fig makers have to use dark colors arrrrgggg ?!?!?
--
the...@pcnet.com
Jonathan Oldham
Beer, it's soooo much more than just a breakfast drink
Rick Keir
Marshall <tmar...@morgan.ucs.mun.ca> wrote:
> All right, Rick, now you've got my hackles up! Grrr! Grump! snarl! :)
(followed by a spirited defense of plastic figures).
Lest my comments on plastic figures be misinterpreted as
putting them down, let me clarify:
in suggesting that they be painted with a can of spray primer
and a minimal touch up, preferably using a paint-marker pen,
I was discussing the quick-and-dirty paint job that I myself
use on the plastic figures I own. I like plastic figures and
feel they are a good value. Don't be discouraged from buying
them just because paint jobs don't tend to last as well on them.
You may want to try a simple paint job on some basic figures
(a unit of Zulus, or something similar), then use them for
a while to see how well they'll hold up under the conditions
you expect to be gaming with them in.
Michael Mckibbin
a few of the figures in my units so I don't always have a monolithic mass
of troops. This is OK for some units, but for others, it's not that great.
For example, I didn't want all of my SA-6 launchers in firing position, so
I converted a couple to road position. And of course, my brothers Ork
Irregulars (OK, OK, I *know* that this is historical, but I'm trying to make
a point here!) are the mother of all converted firgures units. I've heard
that plastic figure are not as convertable as lead. Is this true? I'd
really like to be enlightened.
---Napoleon
Tim Marshall
On Thu, 20 Jul 1995, Rick Keir wrote:
> [WARNING: What follows will horrify anyone who likes good
> paint jobs. My recommendations are based on the feeling
> that these plastic figures are not worth a good paint job,
> but that they nevertheless look better than bits of cardboard
> marker when you're gaming. I have yet to find anyone who
> will claim they know how to paint them so that the paint
> job will withstand actual use as gaming figures; they are
> very flexible and have a strong tendency to flake/crack if
> handled.
As a gamer who fights only with plastic figures (and there's at least one
other guy from the old r.g.m. - can't remember his name, darn, where *are*
one's allies when you need them!) I can agree with some of Rick's
criticisms (paint flaking off, primarily). However, I would much rather
toss my plastic casualties into a tray (for the body count!) then do the
same with metal figs.
I have painted both metal and plastic - the metal figures were from my
days as a D&D (not "A" D&D, note!) player. Thus I can say, having
sampled both sides that for my gendre I prefer plastic. They are far
cheaper (as Rick concedes) and easier to handle. No one inhales in
horror when (as it all too often happens) a lead figure plummets off the
table or is dropped as a player lifts it to march it off somewhere.
I do skirmish platoon/company (battalion at very, very max) WWII gaming
in HO scale. The above horrors of handling metal figs is a concern
because all the figures in our rules are individually based and can trot
off anywhere on their own, thus plastic is more practical for us.
As for painting, I rarely wash my Airfix/Revell stuff (or even prime).
If you are careful (and we have various house rules on precautions) they
can last.
And lest you poo-poo me and say what a rank amateur painter he is, :),
let it be known that my miniatures have been greatly admired at cons when
I have run games.
I wonder if this is gonna cause some polarization in the group? :)
Tim
Ray Trochim
Brett Drake <Bre...@wuacn.wustl.edu> wrote:
>Hi. A friend of mine is interested in playing "The Sword and the Flame"
>which I gather is about 19th century colonial battles (foreign legion,
>Zulus, etc..). I understand this is a skirmish game (1 man = 1 figure). Any
>one know about this game? any good? are there any other better
>games for this kind of thing?
Yes, there are several sets of Colonial skirmish rules, but Sward and
the Flame is one of my favorits becuase it is simple. There are some
problems with the rules but overall it is a good set. Another set of
rules if you like lots of detail and paper work is Colonial Skirmishers
I don't know if you can still find a copy and I can't remember the
writers name. With Sword and Flame you can find lots of players.
If your interested, I can send you my Notes and Suggestions for the
Sword and the Flame rules. Everyone kinda pitched in and we didn't
changes any of the rules, we just added to it or made it better. Anyway,
if anyone is interested send me email at
And I can send you a PostScript file of the 2 page Additions/Suggestions.
>While I'm here- I just bought some little 20mm platic Zulus and Legionairres,
>and was planning on priming them with spray and them acrylic painting them and
>basing them on pennies. Apart from being careful to wash off the oil on the
>figs, do I do this any differently than I would with lead???
Oh boy. These brings back memories. Overall, wash the figures well. I
used to use to drop them in paint thiner and swish them around a bit
then throw them in VERY hot water with a little soap and then wash with
VERY hot water and no soap. After this I just quicky painted them using
the heavy drybrush method. My suggestion is this. DON'T waste to much
time painting them. There not worth it. Sure, the figures look good, but
the plastic/rubber doesn't take paint well. Oh and when using the
thiner, PLEASE use in well ventalated area.
Here's how I painted my Zulus.
1) I used a sodering(sp?) iron to attach the shields (be careful and
don't use anyting higher the 25watts).
2) A quick drybrush with a med-light brown (figure is already dark brn).
3) Painted parts of the fig (like hair and what not) black
4) Painted shield (if black, can be done in step 3)
5) added spots of other colors (tan, yellow). Nothing fancy!
6) light drybrush the shield white if black and dark grey if white.
For the Brits there are a few more things to do, but what I did was I
died the yellow figure RED with permanet dyes. This was done right after
the Very hot water wash. All I did was throw the figs in a pale of red
dye.
Hope this helps someone.
-Ray
David G. Bell
> TIP: Before painting, and after cleaning 'PAINT' the figures with a
> diluted PVA/White Glue mix. This will stiffen the figure and provide a
> good base to paint on with little loss of detail (What there is of it)!
Another standard tip...
But have a close look at the modern plastics. The detail isn't anything
like as prominent as on a lead figure but, IMHO, there is as much detail
and it is much more to scale. OK, it's harder to paint well, and easy
to smother with excess paint, but the detail _is_ there.
--
David G. Bell -- Farmer, SF Fan, Filker, Furry, and Punslinger..
Never criticise a farmer with your mouth full.
John Moher
ke...@doit.wisc.edu says...
>
>[WARNING: What follows will horrify anyone who likes good
> paint jobs. My recommendations are based on the feeling
> that these plastic figures are not worth a good paint job,
> but that they nevertheless look better than bits of cardboard
> marker when you're gaming. I have yet to find anyone who
> will claim they know how to paint them so that the paint
> job will withstand actual use as gaming figures; they are
> very flexible and have a strong tendency to flake/crack if
> handled.
>
> and using these figures.]
>
diluted PVA/White Glue mix. This will stiffen the figure and provide a
good base to paint on with little loss of detail (What there is of it)!
>For those who haven't seen these figures
(Airfix/ESCI/Atlantic)..........
>
Regards
--
*John Moher *(myce...@iconz.co.nz)
Auckland
New Zealand
'Luck, in the long run, is given only to the efficient.'
- Von Moltke.
CHUCKVADUN
They are splendidly detailed, generally more realistic in proportions and
paint up to a standard that eclipses any Minifig in the universe. Yes, if
you bend a rifle, the paint will chip. Of course, if you bend a metal
rifle in the same way, the paint wont chip - the rifle will just break
off. I dont usually game with plastics except for TS&TF - but I have some
of those easy-to-paint-zulus that are easily a 10 on anyones scale. So,
the upshot is that if you like plastics, game with them. Like metal theyll
last as long as you take care of them. And they are excellent value for
the money. Oh yes, for both materials, I suggest getting an old toothbrush
and using that to scrub your figures. It works for me.
rosalyn rice
I'm poor), and they're better proportioned than lead, err, pewter. For a
while you couldn't get miniatures other than WW II and Napoleonics plus a
few other things, but now IMEX and Revell AG are turning out some
excellent plastic figures for a number of historical periods.
If you want to check out a new rules system or a new basing
system and you don't want to spend mega-bucks on lead then plastic is a
good way to go.
Here is a grab bag of plastic-working tips:
I treat plastic miniatures that are made of flexible plastic in
the same way that I treat plastic model parts. I soak the whole sprue of
miniatures in dish soap and water, towel them off and then cut all the
excess flash and sprue from the "plat" of miniatures. (You generally get
two "sections" of plastic miniatures with ESCI, Revell AG, and IMEX that
fold over like book covers.) That way I can mass paint each section of
miniatures without having to handle each figure. I can also store the
painted miniatures in their boxes until they are ready to be based.
I've never tried the dilute white glue trick to get plastics to
stay stiff. I think that with the newer plastics (that have excellent
detail) you would lose too much detail. The style of painting I use is
the usual dark primer under a base coat with dry brushed highlights. If
you do this right you can turn out an entire box (50 or so) modern figures
in an hour or so. If I used the glue trick then my drybrushing would look
awful.
The way that I get around having my plastics lose their paint is
to base them well (on washers or heavy bases) so they don't fall over and
so that people pick up the base instead of the figure and to clear-coat
the hell out of them after I'm done.
I use acrylic paints (Partha paints, artists acrylics, Armory,
whatever) and if you put on a good "primer" the subsequent coats of paint
stick reasonably well.
Oh, another trick. Any plastic part that requires attaching
should be attached with a hot glue gun. Attach the part with a big old
glob of hot glue and then use an X-Acto knife to cut off the excess after
it's cool. You can also use a hot knife blade to fuse the ends of cannon
axles or mounting posts and bases for those irritating Airfix cavalry
figures. That's the only glue I've found that seems to work.
Thomas Barnes
m.a.jones
: All right, Rick, now you've got my hackles up! Grrr! Grump! snarl! :)
<edit><in reply to:
: > [WARNING: What follows will horrify anyone who likes good
: > paint jobs. My recommendations are based on the feeling
: > that these plastic figures are not worth a good paint job,
: > but that they nevertheless look better than bits of cardboard
: > marker when you're gaming. I have yet to find anyone who
: > will claim they know how to paint them so that the paint
: > job will withstand actual use as gaming figures;
Right you have found someone now; I have painted plastic figures for napoleonic
and WWII and never had a problem with flaking paint. Why because I used felxible
paints and varnish. You are now probably going WHAT!!!!!felxible paints?
The acrylics and water based varnish I used the paint had almost as
much felexibility as the figure and so did not crack and flake like the enamel
paints.
But before you ask can't give a current manufacturer for the paints I
used, as it was a whileback. The metalic paint was definitely citadel (Games
Workshop) while the others would have been a mixture of artists
acrylics/citadel colour/ and other miniature acrylic paints. I blended the
paints to get the desired colour rather than buying unsuitable paints of the
right colour, but that would just fall of the figure!
: > they are
: > very flexible and have a strong tendency to flake/crack if
: > handled.
: As a gamer who fights only with plastic figures (and there's at least one
: other guy from the old r.g.m. - can't remember his name, darn, where *are*
: one's allies when you need them!).
One ally, although I don't use that much plastic as the period of figure I want
to use are not readily available in plastic.
: As for painting, I rarely wash my Airfix/Revell stuff (or even prime).
: If you are careful (and we have various house rules on precautions) they
: can last.
Good point, if you handel any figures badly they will lose paint.
Best wishes with you gamming whatever figures you use.
Mike Jones.
Aberdeen.
John Moher
napo...@expert.cc.purdue.edu says...
>
> I almost always (well, *always*) use lead because I like to modify at
least
>For example, I didn't want all of my SA-6 launchers in firing position,
so
>I converted a couple to road position. And of course......... be
enlightened.
> ---Napoleon
>
Road position, hey this sounds pretty neat, is that like a land mine? Or
is it an impression of a hedgehog or possum!!! No, I know, its a
technique used to assist Army Engineers, or maybe they provide a safe
haven for ships to anchor in?? Of course they could be off somewhere? or
is it a tactical manoeuvre, like setting an ambush!
Then again have I missed the point completely and this is just a spelling
mistake? Could it just be that its suppose to read 'LOAD'. I don't know,
but tune in next week for the next installment of 'Internet, what the
hell is it....' then again the bomb could have been used before then!
--
**John Moher **(myce...@iconz.co.nz)
John Moher
>
>Sorry, guys - I just dont buy any of this critique of plastic figures.
>They are splendidly detailed, generally more realistic in proportions
and
>last as long as you take care of them. And they are excellent value for
>the money. Oh yes, for both materials, I suggest getting an old
toothbrush
>and using that to scrub your figures. It works for me.
With Toothpaste Chuck? Anyway, seriously, have you seen the NEW Minifigs,
most of the old ranges have been revamped over the last 9 months. They
still don't quite have the detail of ESSEX figures, but are a little more
petite and a certainly 500% better than the old ranges which first came
out 15 years ago...
Regards
John Moher
>
>Hi. A friend of mine is interested in playing "The Sword and the Flame"
>which I gather is about 19th century colonial battles (foreign legion,
>Zulus, etc..). I understand this is a skirmish game (1 man = 1 figure).
Any
>one know about this game? any good? are there any other better
>Thanks.
I have just heard that a DBM style set of colonial rules are being worked
on. I would expect these to be pretty good... Mike Campbell (Blenheim,
NZ) has told me that Napoleonic & Malburian sets are due out this year,
so colonial hopefully won't be far behind.
John Moher
tmar...@morgan.ucs.mun.ca says...
>
>All right, Rick, now you've got my hackles up! Grrr! Grump! snarl! :)
>
>
>As a gamer who fights only with plastic figures.........in the group? :)
>
>Tim
And they have those lovely rifles which are just nicely bent to shoot
round corners, I certainly wouln't want to get caught in any of those
poses they have, they look most painful!!!
Good luck with the plastics, nothing like a good argument to get the
blood flowing!
P.S. I have to admit I still own some ESCI 20mm WW2 figures! Still
nothing like a bit of hypocracy!
Regards, and keep up up the good paint work (Ooooh, what a nightmare....)
Clemens Meier
> I use regular dish detergent(Joy for that lemony fresh smell:)) for
> washing my figs and never seem to have serious problems. Maybe some the
Huh? So far, everyone told me dish detergent was a no--no,
since it contains /sill?[iy]cone?/ (the stuff sand and
computers are made of) to produce that nice and shiny coating
on the dishes which makes females happy but prevents them from
taking paint (which is ok for dishes).
Myth or legend?
Clemens
--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Wo ist denn der Objoke ??? Clemens Meier
Bei Clemens? Nie!! Ok, ok, aber fast nie. clm...@lili.uni-bielefeld.de
GO C+ UL P? L+>++>+++ 3$ E++>+++ N++ K? R+>+++ G''''' !tv b+ D+ !f
John Moher
db...@zhochaka.demon.co.uk says...>> TIP: Before painting,......little loss of detail (What there is of
it)!
>
>Another standard tip...
>
>But have a close look at the modern plastics. The detail isn't anything
>like as prominent as on a lead figure but, IMHO, there is as much detail
>and it is much more to scale. OK, it's harder to paint well, and easy
>to smother with excess paint, but the detail _is_ there.
>
>--
and will freely admit so! Plastic just does not compare with
metal/pewter. Besides gaming includes a bit of fantasy and 20mm plastic
figures usually have bodily proportions that a just to close to reality
for comfort!!!
Michael Rasmussen
painting both lead and plastics for years and the state of art plastic figures such as ESCI and
Rewell are really very nice. Actually I find good plastic figures more detailed and better
proportioned than ANY lead figures in the same size (well, I compare 20 mm plastics to 15 and
25 mm lead). I've got several prizes for best gaming miniatures [in Denmark] for my plastics in
competition with lead figures. Besides that they are extremely inexpensive compared to good
lead figures.
The disadvantages of plastics are primarily that the paint tends to fall of when handled
roughly. [A good finish coating helps a lot - but still]; and the selection of different
figures is very limited. For example in Napoleonics manufacturers concentrate very heavy on
french and british, so you often have to try to convert your figures, which can be difficult in
plastic [but not impossible], and tends to give some historical errors in the uniforms.
Someone mentioned that the figures are greasy. I have never had any problems with this, after I
started scrubbing them in ammonia water. Be sure to get the ammonia residuals washed of in
clean water afterwards, though.
Britt Klein
>Huh? So far, everyone told me dish detergent was a no--no,
>since it contains /sill?[iy]cone?/ (the stuff sand and
>computers are made of) to produce that nice and shiny coating
>on the dishes which makes females happy but prevents them from
>taking paint (which is ok for dishes).
>Myth or legend?
Myth. Dishes get clean due to heavy detergents. There is no silicon in
dish detergent. (Yes, I do know for a fact. I saw this post and checked
with five 800 numbers, four retailers and a chemist at the local university
before posting this followup.)
And us females are happiest about detergents that cut grease. Clean anything
smooth well enough and it'll look like it's shiny for a minute or two.
- Britt
--
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
CE LINE - DO NOT CROSS POLICE LINE - DO NOT CROSS POLICE LINE - D
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Tim Marshall
On 24 Jul 1995, John Moher wrote:
> And they have those lovely rifles which are just nicely bent to shoot
> round corners, I certainly wouln't want to get caught in any of those
> poses they have, they look most painful!!!
>
> Good luck with the plastics, nothing like a good argument to get the
> blood flowing!
>
> P.S. I have to admit I still own some ESCI 20mm WW2 figures! Still
> nothing like a bit of hypocracy!
>
> Regards, and keep up up the good paint work (Ooooh, what a nightmare....)
Plastic gamers of the world, unite and march on New Zealand:
We'll battle John Moher and his metal figs and scrape off his paint! Our
battle hymn shall be:
"Oh, we don't need a boat,
'cause plastic floats
We'll attack Mr. Moher and get his goat
"Then in half a wink,
We'll toss 'em in the drink
And his minifigs will be lost 'cause they'll simply sink"
<blood thirsty laughter and horrible threats>
I apologise in advance to all you people who flame me for this, but I'm a
maladjusted adult because my parents never bought me an Airfix landing
craft when I was a kid, so I'm not responsible for my actions - society is.
If that excuse doesn't work, then I'm a diabetic having an insulin
reaction and I get very *s i l l y* when hypoglycaemic.
Tim
Bob Beattie
Drake) wrote:
> Hi. A friend of mine is interested in playing "The Sword and the Flame"
> which I gather is about 19th century colonial battles (foreign legion,
> Zulus, etc..). I understand this is a skirmish game (1 man = 1 figure). Any
> While I'm here- I just bought some little 20mm platic Zulus and Legionairres,
> and was planning on priming them with spray and them acrylic painting them and
> basing them on pennies.
The Sword and the Flame (TSATF) is a skirmish-like game. 20 man units
represent Platoons for Europeans and tribes for native peoples. Two
platoons is a company. So 40 figs = about 100 paper strength men. This
game is going on 15 years in production but is still a fun game for the
era. Simplistic but capturing the feel of the era. Not too good for Boer
vs British but ok for other native peoples who do not have the same
technology as the imperial powers but do know the lay of the land.
Over the years there have been many adaptations of the rules from
Romans vs British ancients to Spanish vs Aztecs to French and Indian
War to Indian Mutiny to Boxer Rebellion to Pershing vs Villa to
WWI sideshows. The figures are individual but stay together in
tactical groups.
Re painting plastic figs. As many have said, wash and prime and
varnish. I have some Airfix Ancient British I painted 15 years ago and
they are still battle worthy. I think mounting them on pickup size bases
is useful. The British are on 1/2 inch thick bases. Using pennies
for mounting plastic figs for TSATF will result in folks picking up
the figure and not the base. Use thick bases and tell people to keep
their hands off the figs
Bob
bea...@umich.edu
and they are still gameable
John Moher
>
>On 24 Jul 1995, John Moher wrote:
>
>>
>> Regards, and keep up up the good paint work (Ooooh, what a
nightmare....)
>
>Plastic gamers of the world, unite and march on New Zealand:
>We'll battle John Moher and his metal figs and scrape off his paint!
Our
>battle hymn shall be:
>
> "Oh, we don't need a boat,
> 'cause plastic floats
> We'll attack Mr. Moher and get his goat
>
> "Then in half a wink,
> We'll toss 'em in the drink
> And his minifigs will be lost 'cause they'll simply
sink"
>
> <blood thirsty laughter and horrible threats>
>
>I apologise in advance to all you people who flame me for this, but I'm
a
>maladjusted adult because my parents never bought me an Airfix landing
>craft when I was a kid, so I'm not responsible for my actions - society
is.
>
>If that excuse doesn't work, then I'm a diabetic having an insulin
>reaction and I get very *s i l l y* when hypoglycaemic.
>
>Tim
We will fight you on the beaches, we will fight you on the sea, we will
fight you in the air, and then we will go to the Bar!
And while your busy singing we'll get on with the fighting (wink..)
We ain't scared of your rubber bullets and plastic swords......
But please don't attack on Sunday 'cause thats when we do most of our
wargaming and our forces will be committed else where....
We are ready, do your worst. (And we have secret weapons - HAIR
DRYERS!!!)
bryan orsbourne
>>Plastic gamers of the world, unite and march on New Zealand:
>>We'll battle John Moher and his metal figs and scrape off his paint!
>> <blood thirsty laughter and horrible threats>
>>
>>Tim
>
>We are ready, do your worst. (And we have secret weapons - HAIR
>DRYERS!!!)
>--
>**John Moher **(myce...@iconz.co.nz)
> Auckland
> New Zealand
>
> 'Luck, in the long run, is given only to the efficient.'
> - Von Moltke.
>
BUT WAIT!!!!!!
What about support from within New Zealand for the PLASTIC ATTACK?
We will send the defence plans and strategies of Metal John in a callous
act of treachery, and then attack him in the rear (well maybe in the flank!)
with our plastic minions and crush him between our combined forces!!!
"Luck, in the long run, is given only to the plastic" - Revolutionary battle-cry
of the plastic warrior.
Bryan (Airfix) Orsbourne, Auckland, New Zealand
Leader of the Rebellion.
Roger B
Anyone else have any tips or hints on painting plastic figures?
Regards,
Roger