Re: ON TOPIC MINIATURES SITE RUN BY RIGHT WING MANIAC :)
Donnie
<don...@dinonino.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>Nor will it remove people like Jimi who attempted to draw me into a
>reason discussion off group and then told me he was telling all his
>friends not to deal with me at : http://www.minifigures.co.uk/
>
>where incidentally you can buy beautifully painted 15mm Historical War
>GAME figures for only .90 UK Pence instead of the almost universal
>£1.50.
>
>So roll up roll up, see the Right Wing Fascist Monster at play, read
>my philosophy, hate me, but do yourself a favour and buy from some one
>who has been in all areas of the wargaming hobby since 1964.
>
>Actually this is so good it needs it's own Post.
>
>That's http://www.minifigures.co.uk/
PS I trade on EBay as donnieitaly. Read my feedback.
>
Mike Monaco
Quid Veritas
Question though, do you only sell the groups of 5 that you have done or
is this just a sampler???
mjc
Mike Monaco
Quid Veritas wrote:
> Oh, I dunno. Not too bad -- especially for the price.
>
Well, I'm spoiled by 1/72 plastics regarding price, and 25mm+ regarding
quality, so I don't see myself ever opting for 15mm. But "hideous" may
have been a bit harsh. I just thought they were ugly and not my type --
of course everyone else is welcome to 'em. Hell, I still prefer
Grenadier 25mm fantasy from the 80's to most of what I see nowadays,
Reaper & Rafm being exceptions.
Donnie
<quidv...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Oh, I dunno. Not too bad -- especially for the price.
>
>Question though, do you only sell the groups of 5 that you have done or
>is this just a sampler???
Not quite sure what you mean by "you have done". If you mean periods
then what you see is what I have, if you mean types of troops
photographed then what you see is what is (or on occasions was) in
stock and you can buy them in any quantity.
Donnie.
>
>>>> That's http://www.minifigures.co.uk/
>>>
Donnie
Please don't top post.
Justin Taylor
Please do top post as I hate to read through all the un-sniped stuff that
some people leave on their posts. You would have thought at their age they
would no better but hey its a wacky world out there.
--
Justin Taylor
jus...@hellou2.fsnet.co.uk
use this email to respond as 'Reply' will not work - its an anti-spam device
Donnie
<justint@hellou2.*takethisout*fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>>Please don't top post.
>
>Please do top post as I hate to read through all the un-sniped stuff that
>some people leave on their posts. You would have thought at their age they
>would no better but hey its a wacky world out there.
But it seems nettiquette hereabouts requires ...oh why bother.
Mike Monaco
Quid Veritas
Why in the world would you not top post -- especially to a single comment?
I can understand addressing a number of issues in a long post where you
might want to interject your comments within the main text of the message.
But frankly, we all have limited time and top posting makes a great deal
of sense in many cases.
If I'm wrong about this, help me out. Suppose I missed something along
the way.
mjc
Robert Singers
> Guess I need to be educated here.
A: Top posters
Q: What's the worst thing about Usenet.
> Why in the world would you not top post -- especially to a single
> comment?
> I can understand addressing a number of issues in a long post where
> you might want to interject your comments within the main text of the
> message.
>
> But frankly, we all have limited time and top posting makes a great
> deal of sense in many cases.
>
> If I'm wrong about this, help me out. Suppose I missed something
> along the way.
You've missed that in that case you should be snipping all of the text
that you're not responding too. You've missed that it's difficult to
work out [in some instances] exactly what you're replying to. You've
missed that given that Usenet is a many to many medium that often
suffers post loss that sequence being maintained inside a post is
important. You've missed the normal quoting rules for English. You've
missed that when people mix top posting and inline posting that threads
die as conversation is strangled.
The best article I've found about the subject is from
news.newusers.questions and you can read it here
http://member.newsguy.com/~schramm/nquote.html
Personally I'd appreciate it if you'd post inline, but even more I'd
appreciate it if you and others snipped out text you're not replying to.
--
rob singers
pull finger to reply
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Quid Veritas
Has some merit for long serious discussions [nothing like that on this
news group ;-)]. But as the article says, there's no harm in top
posting a short resonse.
mjc
Bruce Sinclair
. how do you know that your short response won't become a large
serious discussion thread ? If you want to make life really difficult, feel
free to mix em up :)
Bruce
------------------------------
Health nuts are going to feel stupid someday, lying in hospitals
dying of nothing.
-Redd Foxx
Caution ===== followups may have been changed to relevant groups
(if there were any)
Chris D
Quid Veritas <quidv...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Guess I need to be educated here.
>
> Why in the world would you not top post -- especially to a
> single comment?
Because sometimes, people like myself, who lurk about
occasionally, will pop in for their weekly visit, find a message
like this, and then have to scroll to the bottom and start
reading up, to find out what the message we clicked on was
about, rather than following the logical path of starting at the
top, and reading to the bottom. Sometimes, if it's been a
while, or if the newsserver I use has had a dummyspit, the
original post is not available, so I can't just read every
message in the thread to find out whats going on.
I Was going to post some links, but there's far too many. Do a
google on "Top Posting", and check out the first few links.
They say it much better than I can.
Oh, and I commend you on your attitude, and the politeness
with which you have asked what you're doing wrong, rather than
just blindly defending what you do, like many others. :)
</delurk>
-Chris D
--
"Top posting because that's where you found your cursor is like
crapping your pants because that's where your butt happened to
be"
Chris D
Chris D <dicko...@riverland.AAARRGNOMORESPAM.net.au> wrote:
> I Was going to post some links, but there's far too many. Do
> a google on "Top Posting", and check out the first few links.
> They say it much better than I can.
Here's the one I was actually looking for :)
http://mailformat.dan.info/quoting/bottom-posting.html
Very well written.
- Chris D
--
No .sig this time. Oh, wait a minute, yes there is...
Robert Singers
> Thank you for taking the time to make such a thoughtful response.
Not a problem
> Has some merit for long serious discussions [nothing like that on this
> news group ;-)]. But as the article says, there's no harm in top
> posting a short resonse.
Yeah but remember to snip everything but the point you're replying to in
that instance so we know what the response is to.
Bill McHarg
<quidv...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Guess I need to be educated here.
>
>Why in the world would you not top post -- especially to a single comment?
>
>I can understand addressing a number of issues in a long post where you
>might want to interject your comments within the main text of the message.
>
>But frankly, we all have limited time and top posting makes a great deal
>of sense in many cases.
>
>If I'm wrong about this, help me out. Suppose I missed something along
>the way.
>
>mjc
If I answer that only Nazis top post will that end the discussion? :)
Mac
Ty
news:4dfmp018tirgqh6ks...@4ax.com...
> If I answer that only Nazis top post will that end the discussion? :)
ROTFLOL!
--Ty (who generally avoids top posting)
Robert Singers
> Nor will it remove people like Jimi who attempted to draw me into a
> reason discussion off group and then told me he was telling all his
> friends not to deal with me at : http://www.minifigures.co.uk/
I pointed out this thread on RGMW and now it has Jimi's sock puppet "Mike
Hunt" posting again. If you start getting threatening or abusive emails
you may wish keep them in case you can verify that it's Jimi and raise it
with his ISP. In the past at least one UK ISP has given Jimi the boot for
threatening people with violence via email.
Donnie
<rsin...@finger.hotmail.com> wrote:
>Out from under a rock popped Donnie and said
>
>> Nor will it remove people like Jimi who attempted to draw me into a
>> reason discussion off group and then told me he was telling all his
>> friends not to deal with me at : http://www.minifigures.co.uk/
>
>I pointed out this thread on RGMW and now it has Jimi's sock puppet "Mike
>Hunt" posting again. If you start getting threatening or abusive emails
>you may wish keep them in case you can verify that it's Jimi and raise it
>with his ISP. In the past at least one UK ISP has given Jimi the boot for
>threatening people with violence via email.
Thanks for the information. My sons works as a computer guru and such
a search would not be difficult for him.
"Jimi" certainly threatened my lively hood which all things considered
is a bit extreme for simply stating that one does have to read OT
posts.
Thanks again.
Ty
news:60inp0tspss1bdjdv...@4ax.com...
> "Jimi" certainly threatened my lively hood which all things considered
> is a bit extreme for simply stating that one does have to read OT
> posts.
<shakes head>
I'm rather perplexed at the notion of refusing to do business with someone
simply because they disagree with your political views. Myself, I'd purchase
a game from *anyone* if I liked it. (Assuming the seller wasn't a front for
the Mafia, a terrorist group, etc.). Heck, I'd even buy Piquet -- if I
enjoyed the game. This despite my rather pointed disagreements with Bob
Jones on nearly everything.
--Ty
Justin Taylor
Just a word of advice, his posts are extremely one sided so take his advice
at your own risk. However you may find he is a kindred spirit (quick
judgements, fond of telling others what to do and goes looking for
arguments).
Cheers
Robert Singers
Oh the irony.
manickZe
"Justin Taylor" <justint@hellou2.*takethisout*fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:cngikt$ful$1...@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
Myrmidon
justint@hellou2.*takethisout*fsnet.co.uk Varfed out the following in
Timo speak...
Ahhh, refresh my memory there Justin. Weren't you the very same
twit, who when it was pointed out *by numerous people* that your posting
style largely renders your posts worthless in terms of helping others
(supposedly your reason for replying to posts at all) responded to the
effect that 'you didn't care because you've always done it that way'.
And you wonder why much of use-net views you as a mental midget? The
pure genius of your reasoning is overshadowed only by your own savvy
advice.
Poster: "How do I strip paint from expensive minis with bad paint jobs?"
Justin: "I can't strip paint - therefore you might as well throw them
out and buy new ones."
Rest of N.G. "Here's a long list of products that will strip paint,
here's what is safe on plastics, here is what's hazardous about them,
here's what you need for safety, etc."
If there were prizes for "Most useless advice presented in the
most useless format" - you'd have garnered them all. I have no doubt
that the word 'Putz' was coined just for you.
Myrmidon
--
It's the Scots who fry chocolate bars.
- Philip Bowles
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Or...
Daniel "Naughty Tentacles" Blakemore
> is a bit extreme for simply stating that one does have to read OT
> posts.
Yup, that's him to a tee.... His Modus Operandi is getting kinda obvious
these days... ;)
--
Daniel Blakemore
Mini Gallery #1 - http://www.rottenlead.com/copper/thumbnails.php?album=8
#2 - http://www.voidgamers.com/channel/b.190.html?author_name=MYLORDKHORNE
#3 - http://www.pbase.com/mylordkhorne/
ICQ:14459824 Yahoo IM: mylordkhorne
Donnie
Thanks, but I'll take his word over yours. (Nothing personal.)
Justin Taylor
>
>Justin: "I can't strip paint - therefore you might as well throw them
>out and buy new ones."
How about instead:
Poster: "How do I strip paint from plastic minis with bad paint jobs?"
Justin: "I have tried and nothing I have tried works effectively. Your time
would be better spent working and earning the money to buy new figures."
Sorry to rain on your parade with a dose of reality but some of us live in
the real world.
Have a nice day.
Donnie
And you really can't see what's wrong with that. My God.
Oh, and have a nice day.
Justin Taylor
Nope. Simple maths, if it takes 2 hours to clean up the figures and you can
earn enough to buy new figures in an hour, then its better to spend the time
working rather than try to clean up the figures. Thats how economics work.
I appreciate that some people just enjoy spending time on their hobby no
matter how unproductive but I would not recommend that course of action.
As you might have noticed from the previous posts the 'Singers society'
didn't even bother to get the facts right and induced their own little twist
to the tale to make it seem even better.
Now to go even further down the path, I have decided that I prefer metal
figures over plastic because of the time spent clipping out and gluing
plastic makes them more expensive (for me) than buying metal. I also find it
hader to produce a good result for painting on plastic compared to metal.
And to relieve the tedium of the 'he said that, I disagree' of the recent
postings, here are some pictures of my models:
http://www.geocities.com/zedeyejoe/gallerypage.htm
John Secker
Veritas <quidv...@earthlink.net> writes
short, then readers can see them both on the screen - but they will
still be the wrong way around, answer before question. Top posting is
usually OK in an email conversation, because the person who reads the
reply at the top wrote the original question, so he probably remembers
what it was. But in a larger forum it is easier for everyone to read if
it flows from top to bottom. The other problem with top posting even a
short response is what happens when the next person wants to add
something. Does he top post too, or bottom post - in which case you get
very strange threads. It's easier al round if everyone bottom-posts -
and trims unnecessary text, of course. As with most of these apparently
arbitrary conventions, there is a reason behind them.
--
John Secker
John Secker
<justint@hellou2.*takethisout*fsnet.co.uk> writes
--
John Secker
John Secker
<justint@hellou2.*takethisout*fsnet.co.uk> writes
>>And you really can't see what's wrong with that. My God.
>
>Nope. Simple maths, if it takes 2 hours to clean up the figures and you can
>earn enough to buy new figures in an hour, then its better to spend the time
>working rather than try to clean up the figures. Thats how economics work.
>
here. First, that everyone is in a job where they can simply do a little
bit more and earn a little bit more. Maybe Ty can spend a few extra
minutes tax lawyering and earn the price of a new army, but for a lot of
people it doesn't work like that. I am on a salary, and if I work extra
hours (which I do, every week) my extra earnings are zero.
The other assumption, which is the one which really scuppers your
argument, is the assumption that an hour working at your is the same to
you as an hour spent on your hobby. I would propose that this is
manifestly untrue for very nearly everybody. We enjoy our hobbies -
that's why we do them. And we don't enjoy our jobs, or at least not as
much as we do our hobbies - that's why we have to be paid to do the
jobs. The two hours spent cleaning the miniatures will bring pleasure,
perhaps only after the finished product is done, and surmounting a
challenge is all part of the fun. That's why so many people do DIY/home
improvements themselves, even when their hourly rate is greater than the
workman they could employ to do it. They get pleasure out of completing
the task themselves, out of doing something skilled with their hands,
which they would not get just by paying for the finished product.
--
John Secker
Donnie
<justint@hellou2.*takethisout*fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>>And you really can't see what's wrong with that. My God.
>
>Nope. Simple maths, if it takes 2 hours to clean up the figures and you can
>earn enough to buy new figures in an hour, then its better to spend the time
>working rather than try to clean up the figures. Thats how economics work.
>
>I appreciate that some people just enjoy spending time on their hobby no
>matter how unproductive but I would not recommend that course of action.
>
Then you need to re-think your definition of a hobby.
PS If you like I'll fly over to you and play your games for you,
thereby leaving your much more time to make more money to pay me to do
it.
Mike Monaco
Justin Taylor wrote:
>>And you really can't see what's wrong with that. My God.
>
>
> Nope. Simple maths, if it takes 2 hours to clean up the figures and you can
Another salary man, I disagree.
>
>
> Now to go even further down the path, I have decided that I prefer metal
> figures over plastic because of the time spent clipping out and gluing
> plastic makes them more expensive (for me) than buying metal. I also find it
> hader to produce a good result for painting on plastic compared to metal.
I spend less time cutting plastic sprues than filing metal figures, but
more importantly like that look of plastics. I haven't had any
significant problems with plastics I washed before painting.
>
> And to relieve the tedium of the 'he said that, I disagree' of the recent
> postings, here are some pictures of my models:
>
> http://www.geocities.com/zedeyejoe/gallerypage.htm
>
>
Very nice work. I like hoplite's shields.
Some of my stuff is here:
http://home.neo.rr.com/mikemonaco/wargamehome.html
Regards,
Mike
>
>
Robert Singers
> Top posting is
> usually OK in an email conversation, because the person who reads the
> reply at the top wrote the original question, so he probably remembers
> what it was
Email is generallt one to one. Usenet is one to many. Having said that
most involved discussions via email by people who use email frequently
generally tend to become inline.
Robert Singers
>>And you really can't see what's wrong with that. My God.
>
> Nope. Simple maths, if it takes 2 hours to clean up the figures and
> you can earn enough to buy new figures in an hour, then its better to
> spend the time working rather than try to clean up the figures. Thats
> how economics work.
Interesting world in which Justin lives. I pick up miniatures cheaply
second. I pay on average NZ$1 per metal 28mm mini. I leave those minis
soaking in metholated spirits for anywhere 2 weeks to 2 months, depending
on what else I'm up to. It takes around a minute to scrub each mini
clean. If we say that a minute of my time is worth $1 then I'm getting a
miniature for $2 far cheaper than what Foundry, GW etc sells them for.
Plastic I buy even cheaper.
Now of course that's not the entire picture. There's the cost of the
toothbrush for scrubbing, the container for soaking them in and the meths
to soak them in. Well it's an old toothbrush of mine that would have
otherwise been thrown away and an old yoghurt container, so I think we
can savely assign no financial value to them. A 1L bottle of meths is
about $4. However I reuse the meths. When it starts to get mirky I
strain it through a paper towel and keep using. So the cost of the meths
is minimal as well.
Now in the thread where Justin told the *teenager* to throw away the
second hand miniatures he'd bought with his *pocket money*, lots of
helpful advice about how to safely strip minis had already been given.
> I appreciate that some people just enjoy spending time on their hobby
> no matter how unproductive but I would not recommend that course of
> action.
One wonders what Justin would recomend. Actually it rather frightens me.
> As you might have noticed from the previous posts the 'Singers
> society' didn't even bother to get the facts right and induced their
> own little twist to the tale to make it seem even better.
Society? Well I suppose that could be people who like the truth. If
anyone is interested enough to google you'll find that Justin kill files
me whenever I ask him to substaniate the claims he makes about me. Some
how he thinks that stop people telling that he's lying.
Robert Singers
>>Ah, Singers raises his merry head.
[snip]
> He fits in perfectly here.
That's a low blow.
Justin Taylor
>Some of my stuff is here:
>http://home.neo.rr.com/mikemonaco/wargamehome.html
Sorry I did not paint the hoplite designs, they are part of my range of
transfers (Veni Vidi Vici).
I notice that you are into 1/72nd scale figures, so you may be interested in
some of my 20mm shield transfers (Greeks, Republican Romans and Phalangite
designs). Hope to have some for Gauls soon.
Ty
news:Xns95A82846FA5rsingers@IP-Hidden...
> Out from under a rock popped Justin Taylor and said
>
> >>And you really can't see what's wrong with that. My God.
> >
> > Nope. Simple maths, if it takes 2 hours to clean up the figures and
> > you can earn enough to buy new figures in an hour, then its better to
> > spend the time working rather than try to clean up the figures. Thats
> > how economics work.
>
> Interesting world in which Justin lives. I pick up miniatures cheaply
> second. I pay on average NZ$1 per metal 28mm mini. I leave those minis
> soaking in metholated spirits for anywhere 2 weeks to 2 months, depending
> on what else I'm up to. It takes around a minute to scrub each mini
> clean. If we say that a minute of my time is worth $1 then I'm getting a
> miniature for $2 far cheaper than what Foundry, GW etc sells them for.
> Plastic I buy even cheaper.
> Now of course that's not the entire picture. There's the cost of the
> toothbrush for scrubbing, the container for soaking them in and the meths
> to soak them in. Well it's an old toothbrush of mine that would have
> otherwise been thrown away and an old yoghurt container, so I think we
> can savely assign no financial value to them. A 1L bottle of meths is
> about $4. However I reuse the meths. When it starts to get mirky I
> strain it through a paper towel and keep using. So the cost of the meths
> is minimal as well.
Rob--
I have some old 25mm D&D figures from the late 1970s. Some were painted with
acrylics, some with enamel (probably Testor's or Pactra model paints). I
want to repaint them for nostalgia value. Can you -- or any one else for
that matter -- please re-post your method (or a link where it's explained).
Thanks.
--Ty
Robert Singers
> I have some old 25mm D&D figures from the late 1970s. Some were
> painted with acrylics, some with enamel (probably Testor's or Pactra
> model paints). I want to repaint them for nostalgia value. Can you --
> or any one else for that matter -- please re-post your method (or a
> link where it's explained).
http://www.rgmw.org/paint/paint-strip.html
If they're that old I'm guessing that they're all metal. In that case
you can just use a commercial paint stripper.
I'd also recommend soaking them in white vinegar as soon as they're
stripped to remove any lead oxide and then as soon as they are dry
giving them a good coat of a primer designed for metals.
Ty
> Out from under a rock popped Ty and said
>
> > I have some old 25mm D&D figures from the late 1970s. Some were
> > painted with acrylics, some with enamel (probably Testor's or Pactra
> > model paints). I want to repaint them for nostalgia value. Can you --
> > or any one else for that matter -- please re-post your method (or a
> > link where it's explained).
>
> http://www.rgmw.org/paint/paint-strip.html
>
> If they're that old I'm guessing that they're all metal. In that case
> you can just use a commercial paint stripper.
They are Grenadier lead figures. Will commercial paint strippers remove
acrylics?
> I'd also recommend soaking them in white vinegar as soon as they're
> stripped to remove any lead oxide and then as soon as they are dry
> giving them a good coat of a primer designed for metals.
Thanks!
--Ty
Robert Singers
> They are Grenadier lead figures. Will commercial paint strippers remove
> acrylics?
Yep. Very quickly.
Myrmidon
tbear...@tyler.net Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
If you're in the US or just about anywhere that has automotive
degreaser - (in the US/Canada I recommend Castrol Super Clean) you're
good to go for about $5 for a gallon. CSC has taken acrylics off
plastics without damaging the plastics even after they've been soaking
in it for a week plus. (I've got a bunch in it now that've been there a
week or so simply due to lack of time to rinse them.) I've also
stripped 25+ year old testers off minis. (Oddly enough off old D&D
figures from the 70's too - apparently it was either testors, Humbrol
enamels or nothing when it came to painting minis in the 70's.) There
was one shade of testors brown that the castrol didn't want to strip
completely - but not enough remained to obscure detail or otherwise be a
problem. And it's the only paint I've really had any notable problem
with out of 80 to a 100+ figures I've stripped with it. The only thing
I have noticed is that it (CSC) sometimes un-does 'super glue' joins on
some minis. To date I haven't had any parts glued with epoxy come
undone while soaking in CSC. It's pretty straight forward - place your
minis in an old metal coffee can, or a clean glass jar, put your minis
to be stripped in, add CSC and close up the container. Once you start
to see signs of paint lifting off start cleaning them (any time from a
few hours for acrylics to several days or so for decades old 'bullet
proof' testors enamel). A few of the old minis painted in testors
needed a 2nd bath in the CSC, but patience is a small price for a chance
to reclaim rare and/or long out of production minis.
If you're going to use CSC - I'd recommend the standard precautions when
working with any sort of chemical. Safty glasses, and rubber gloves.
As for cleaning - just use running water and an old toothbrush to scrub
away old paint once the minis show signs that the paint is coming off
from their dip in the CSC. I'd recommend the same in terms of
protection if you choose the commercial paint stripper (some of which is
the kind of stuff you don't want on your skin - read the labels
carefully).
There's a variety of other stuff folks have tried for stripping as well
- Acetone (Nail Polish Remover) which I don't recommend as it will
definitely damage plastics, the fumes aren't good, etc.
- Easy Off Oven Cleaner - again, not sure about whether it will or won't
damage plastics, and the fumes are not a bonus.
- Pinsol Cleaner - results are mediocure and it's reported that it can
damage/soften plastics from long term exposure.
And there's the old 'method of last resort' - DOT3 a.k.a. Break Fluid.
This or commercial stripper (both of which tend to be really nasty
stuff) are what you use when all else fails. You *definitely* want
gloves and eye protection with this stuff. As one person put it 'just
reading the label can give you cancer'. You also don't want to use
break fluid in or around anything of value as it will remove automotive
paint, bleach carpet and clothing, etc if you spill it on something. It
is however 'safe' when it comes to stripping plastic minis.
Hope that helps,
Myrmidon
Robert Singers
> It's pretty straight forward - place your
> minis in an old metal coffee can, or a clean glass jar, put your minis
> to be stripped in, add CSC and close up the container. Once you start
> to see signs of paint lifting off start cleaning them (any time from a
> few hours for acrylics to several days or so for decades old 'bullet
> proof' testors enamel). A few of the old minis painted in testors
> needed a 2nd bath in the CSC, but patience is a small price for a chance
> to reclaim rare and/or long out of production minis.
Oneday when I was at the Hardware store I found a set of three small
'wire' brushes; one heavy nylon, one brass, and one steel. Occasionally
when I get minis that have been through several periods (oddly always a
blue period) I take them out of the meths and rough them up a bit and put
them back in. The other option is to strip them in layers like an onion
:-)
Mark Severin
I have two methods for stripping painted figures. If you have just a few and
hate to wait, use spray-on oven cleaner (I use the Off! brand). Give 'em a
good dose, let sit for 20 minutes, then rinse. Use an old toothbrush and
over 90% of the paint will come off. You can pick out the crevices with a
toothpick. Wash and paint!
Second option, let them soak in Pine Sol for 24 hours, then brush and
toothpick...
"Ty" <tbear...@tyler.net> wrote in message
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