[GEN] Painting and Terrain FAQ
Terry FitzSimons
From fitzsim...@yahoo.com Fri Sep 07 16:38:37 2001
Newsgroups: rec.games.mecha
Subject: [GEN] Painting and Terrain FAQ
From: Terry FitzSimons <fitzsim...@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 16:38:37 -0500
[1] Well after not seeing it for over a year I decided to post the
updated copy that I was running. Attributes are [?] format, if you
want your Email address taken out let me know, I'll leave your mane in
though, if you don't mind. Basically as I read messages I copied the
information ones to disk and deleted the originals, then cut and
pasted the gems to where they made sense. Lets call this one the 3rd
version.
<<<<< ----- >>>>>
After promising so many times to deliver the second draft of the Mecha
Painting FAQ, I've finally done it. Please post comments and
suggestions. Also, there are a few sections that still need to be
written, and anyone who wants to can try to finish them. The sections
that still need to be written are indicated with pound signs
("######")
Section 0.1 -- TABLE OF CONTENTS
<<<<< ----- >>>>>
Section 0.1 -- TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section 0.2 -- INTRODUCTION
Section 0.3 -- CREDITS
Section 0.4 -- DISCLAIMER
Section 1 -- SUPPLIES
1.1 -- Brushes
1.2 -- Paints
1.3 -- Other Tools & Supplies
Section 2 -- PREPARATION
2.1 -- Removing Flash and Mold Lines
2.2 -- Cleaning
2.3 -- Gluing
2.4 -- Basing
2.5 -- Priming
Section 3 -- PAINTING
3.1 -- Finding and Choosing Paint Schemes
3.2 -- Painting Techniques
Section 4.0 -- FINISHING
4.1 -- Decorating the Base
4.1.1 -- Terrain
4.2 -- Decals
4.3 -- Spraying on a Clear Sealer
Section 5.0 -- Miscellaneous
5.1 -- Stripping Paint
5.2 -- Other Books and Resources of Interest
5.2.1 -- Internet
5.2.2 -- Books & Magazines
5.2.3 -- Building & Hills Suppliers
Section 0.2 -- INTRODUCTION
The Mecha Painting FAQ was created to help people who have little or
no experience painting miniatures. In addition to describing the
basic techniques involved in painting mecha miniatures, this FAQ lists
necessary tools and supplies.
Section 0.3 -- CREDITS
[Note: all e-mail addresses listed below are Spam blocked because this
FAQ will be frequently posted to Usenet]
Unless stated otherwise, all text that appears in the Mecha Painting
FAQ was written by Scott Daniel Ullman
<sdullman@i_hate_spam.stanford.edu>. Also, the following people made
contributions:
[1] Terry FitzSimons fitzsimons_t_j@i_hate_spam.yahoo.com
[2] Brad Carletti guppyshark@i_hate_spam.quakeclan.net
[3] Scott Daniel Ullman sdullman@i_hate_spam.stanford.ude
[4] TIMOTHY A BILLS" TIM.BILLS@i_hate_spam.prodigy.net
[5] CKenCelts ckencelts@i_hate_spam.aol.com
[6] Rich Kirby" rkirby@i_hate_spam.panix.com
[7] Jake Staines csued@I_hate_spam.csv.warwick.ac.uk
[8] W. Nitsche" bnitsche@I_hate_spam.u.washington.edu
[9] NEil Phillips phillips@I_hate_spam.webzone.net.au
[10] Dennis Thompson lyingbastard@I_hate_spam.lycos.com
[11] PradseLost <pradselost@i_hate_spam.aol.com>
...
...
...
Section 0.4 -- DISCLAIMER
At times, the authors may recommend specific products or brand names.
These recommendations are based on the authors' personal experiences
and preferences, and they have not received any money from the
companies in question.
[1] Or if they have they are not sharing with me. So fess up people.
Section 1 -- SUPPLIES
Before you begin painting, you will need a few supplies. The authors
of this FAQ will try to keep the initial investment at a minimum so
that aspiring painters won't have to spend too much money while they
are just getting started.
1.1 -- Brushes
Brushes are one of the most critical tools for the miniature painter.
(It's difficult to apply paint without them...) The brushes that you
will need can be bought in a hobby shop or art store, or through mail
order. Because the quality of the brushes that you use has such a
strong impact on the quality of your paint job, this is one area that
you can't afford to skimp on.
The sizes of artist's brushes are indicated by a number painted on the
handle. For the bigger brushes, the numbers start at 1, and the
bigger the number, the larger the brush. For very small brushes, the
size is indicated by a number of zeros; the more zeros, the smaller
the brush. Some of companies use a shorthand to list the zeros. A
number followed by a "/0" means that the brush size has that many
zeros. So, for example, the size "3/0" is the same as the size "000."
This is especially useful for a brush of size 10/0, which would
otherwise have to be written as "0000000000." These sizes are pretty
much consistent between the various manufacturers, but some variations
do occur, especially at the very small sizes. To start out with, you
will need three basic types of brushes:
* Big Round Brushes - This is a general term for brushes of size 1
and up. These brushes will be used for painting large areas before
detail is added. Buy at least one brush of size 1.
* Fine Detail Brushes - This is a general term for brushes of size O
and smaller. Don't buy the tiny brushes (ones whose bristles are
about 1cm long) because they don't hold much paint and they become
curled very quickly. Instead, buy liner brushes (also called "script
liners" in art store), which are long and thin. Ideally, get a 10/0,
15/0, or 20/0 liner whose bristles are about 1 inch long and come to a
sharp point when wet (a liner's bristles tend to fan out when they are
dry).
[2] I have a Citadel Standard Brush and a Citadel Fine Detail Brush.
Please don't tell anyone ;)
[9] That Citadel Fine Detail Brush is about the size of what I use as
a basing brush/large areas brush. A 10/0 is a real fine detail brush
:)
[Scott's Recommendation: The Armory makes an excellent liner brush,
the 10/0 Golden Nylon Liner Brush (item number ANB-208). If you're
local hobby shop doesn't carry it or can't special-order it, you can
order it from WarWeb.com <http://www.warweb.com>. Also, Princeton Art
& Brush Co. makes a 20/0 liner brush with a thick black handle that
helps to prevent "writer's cramp" while painting. Art stores will
usually carry it, or they can probably special-order it.]
* Drybrushes - Exactly what "drybrushing" is will be explained later
in this FAQ. For now, it's enough to know that this is a process that
requires a stiff brush, either round or flat, and that it tends to
destroy brushes over time. An old size-1 or size-2 brush that has
stiff or moderately stiff bristles will work well. Also, Citadel
(Games Workshop) makes two brushes specifically for drybrushing,
called (not surprisingly) the "Large Drybrush" and the "Small
Drybrush."
[2] Citadel Drybrush.
[9] I use a citadel starter brush :)
[3] Besides the drybrushes, the starter brush is the only Citadel
brush that's made from nylon instead of sable. Since Citadel doesn't
sell it except with their paint kits, if you need a replacement, a
standard #1 "white sable" brush (which is actually synthetic and not
sable at all) should work.
* Cleaning & Caring for Brushes - Your brushes will last longer and
work better if you clean them and take care of them. To clean them,
use "The Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver," which comes in small
round beige plastic containers and is sold in art stores. The
instructions recommend that you leave some lather on the brushes after
you clean them, and use it to mold the bristles into a point, letting
the stuff dry on the brush. (Make sure this is clean lather!)
Because brushes tend to stay in the shape that they dried in, doing
this will help preserve the shape of your brushes.
[2] Wow. This is basic stuff? I always just swished it around in the
water jug, wiped it on a dry surface and left it resting brush-side-up
in said water jug.
[9] I dunno about this being basic stuff. To tell you the truth, I
just use Vaseline to reform the point if it's ever necessary.. but
with the Taklon brushes I tend to use, it's barely ever an issue
(sable brushes seem to deform more easily)
[3] You've got to be kidding.
[3] Anyway, about whether or not what I wrote is "basic," I used my
judgement (developed from over a decade of experience with miniature
painting and art in general) and felt that there were a few "advanced"
tips that were really important and were worth mentioning, such as how
to care for brushes. I think I explained everything clearly enough
that nothing would go over anyone's head.
NOTE: If you are using paints with different types of solvents, such
as if you use acrylic paint but an enamel primer, you can't use the
same brushes for the different paints, even when the solvent has
dried, unless the brushes have been thoroughly cleaned.
1.2 -- Paints
Paint used for painting miniatures generally comes in two types:
acrylic and enamel. Most people seem to use acrylics.
* Acrylics - Acrylic paint is water-soluble, which means that you can
thin it with water, rather than having to use a special paint thinner.
Denatured alcohol (i.e. rubbing alcohol) can also be used to thin
acrylic paint. Acrylics are water-proof when dry, but denatured
alcohol will dissolve dried acrylic paint. The brands of acrylic
paint that are used most often by miniature painters are Citadel, Ral
Partha, and Polly Scale.
###### Can someone who prefers enamels to acrylics please write the
paragraph on enamels to prevent the FAQ from being too biased in favor
of acrylics. ######
[10] I've never tried acrylic on mini's or models, always used enamel.
Also ( I know this is very basic but... ) You should use flat not
gloss paints for more realism.
Also, an airbrush is excellent for applying primer, your base color
and protective finish ( also for "dirtying" it down )
* Primer - Paint doesn't stick too well to metal, so a layer of
primer is usually needed. Primer for metal miniatures comes in
bottles and spray cans, and it comes in white, black, and gray. Most
people seem to prefer spray primers. Commonly used brands of spray
primer include Armory, Ral Partha, Floquil, and Citadel.
[Scott's Recommendation: I use Model Master brush-on enamel primer.
I've found that it goes on smoother and thinner than spray primers,
and it sticks better than acrylic primers. It's gray and has a slick
surface, so I airbrush a thin layer of Tamiya flat white acrylic paint
over it to create a good painting surface.]
[2] Mental note: Buy spray primer. Applebarrel White is great but
tedious to apply. :)
[2] Actually a very good cost-effective brand of paint in AU is called
Applebarrel and is just as good if not better than the Citadel stuff.
[9] Just make sure you don't prime minis when it's humid.
[3] Or when it's cold. I was once using Armory white primer during
the winter (which can get down to a chilly 55 degrees F here in
California...) and it went onto the miniature looking like sand. I've
been told that if you let the spray can soak in a pan of warm water
for a few minutes before using it, the primer will go on much
smoother.
[9] $3 cans of whatever spray paint from cheap as chips works fine,
BTW. I never prime white anymore, but I use the cheap stuff for black
(and slightly more expensive auto primer for gray)
[9] Worth mentioning that Applebarrel paint is fairly thin.. the same
company (folkart?) makes a different line in similar packaging that is
think. But I like the applebarrel stuff :)
[3] Someone told me that Citadel primer is actually made by Sherwin
Williams, a company that makes house paint.
[3] I forgot to mention that I've also had good results using
Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer. It's an enamel primer that is available
in hardware stores in the U.S. The spray is much stronger and faster
than with Citadel spray canisters, so you need to experiment before
using it. It also takes 48 hours to dry, but when you put it on
right, it gives a very tough coat -- much tougher than any model
primer.
1.3 -- Other Tools & Supplies
In addition to brushes and paint, you will need a few more basic tools
and supplies, most of which can be bought in a hardware store or hobby
shop:
* Modeling Knife - You will need a sharp knife for trimming and
scraping metal parts. An X-Acto Type-A handle with the standard
blades work well, but many model companies sell similar knives.
NOTE: Always use caution when working with a sharp knife. Wearing
safety goggles and thick gloves will help prevent injury.
* Files - You will need at least one small file for filing down
imperfections in the miniatures. Model Master makes a set of "needle
files" that are the ideal size for this purpose, but hardware stores
also sell small metal files that work well.
* Glue - Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is best for gluing most metal
parts. Super glue comes in many varieties, ranging from thin glue
that dries almost instantly to thick glue that takes about a minute to
harden. Generally, slower-drying super glues are stronger than
faster-drying kinds. Hobby shops usually sell brands such as Jet and
Zap-A-Gap, both of which come in several varieties. It is also useful
to have some super glue solvent on hand, just in case you make a
mistake, or if you glue your fingers together (don't laugh, it
happens).
* Epoxy Putty - This stuff is used for filling large gaps in
miniatures. Milliput, which is sold in hobby shops, is ideal for this
purpose. Epoxy putty comes in two parts, and it is prepared by
kneading together approximately equal amounts of the two parts. Each
of the two parts is a different color, so you know that it's
completely mixed together when the putty is all one color. Epoxy
putty takes an average of about ten hours to dry, sometimes more,
sometimes less.
[2] Hehe. I was looking all over the place for putty. I ended up
buying some stuff that takes *two weeks* to dry out. No joke.
[9] I use 3 different brands of epoxy which take different amounts of
time to dry, depending on what I'm doing. I use the 5 min stuff from a
hardware store for basing, the milliput for general work and the slow
drying and very cheap Feviseal for.. wem.. basically the same stuff I
use milliput for, but the milliput is more workable.
One important note: Epoxy putty is toxic before it hardens. Ideally,
use rubber gloves when handling it, but if not, follow the usual
common- sense rules about handling poisonous substances, and avoid
getting it on anything you're going to eat. Wash your hands with
scouring powder (i.e. Comet) after using it, as it's kind of hard to
off your fingers sometimes. (Don't worry, we're not trying to scare
you away anything -- We're just trying to say that this stuff is not
Play-Doh, so some degree of caution is necessary.)
* Palette - You will need a small palette for mixing paint.
Preferably, this should be a plastic palette with several small
concave areas that hold paint, rather than a flat palette of the kind
that oil painters use. You can find these in an art store for about
$0.75 each.
* Containers of Solvent - you will need these to clean your brushes
off and for other purposes that will be explained further on. If
you're using acrylics, this can be just plain water. Use a container
that has a low center of gravity so it doesn't tip over when you
violently swish your brush in the water to clean it. It is strongly
recommended that you use a separate container of solvent for cleaning
metallic paint off of brushes. Otherwise, you'll get tiny metallic
flecks in your other paints, which will all but ruin them.
[Scott's Recommendation: I actually use three cups of water when I'm
painting. One is for cleaning brushes used with non-metallic paint,
and another is for cleaning off metallic paint. The third is my
"clean water" cup, which I use for washes (you'll learn what that is
later on) and other times when I need water that isn't cloudy from
cleaning brushes.]
* Rags or Paper Towels - For blotting paint and solvent off of your
brush, you will need some kind of cloth or paper towel. Paper towels
are cheap, but they are a bad choice because they will come apart when
they get wet, and you might get pieces of it stuck to your brush.
[2] For the absorbent cloth bit I just use the newspaper I put down to
protect the table. :)
[3] The absorbent cloth that I was talking about is for wiping
brushes. If you wipe brushes on newspaper, the brushes will absorb
the ink and pollute the paints.
[Scott's Recommendation: I use Kleenex Viva Scrub Cloths because they
are very strong and have the best absorbency. When you wipe a brush
on one of them before drybrushing, it wicks the moisture right off,
leaving only the pigment.]
* Toothpicks - These will come in handy for working with epoxy putty
and super glue.
Section 2 -- PREPARATION
Before you can start painting the miniature, you must prepare it. The
bad news is that this is probably the least enjoyable part of the
hobby. The good news is that it's all uphill after that.
2.1 -- Removing Flash and Mold Lines
* Mold Lines - If you look closely at a miniature, you will notice
that there are some places where the surface is uneven and there is a
small ridge where there shouldn't be. These are mold lines, and they
happen when the two halves of the mold used to cast the miniature were
not perfectly aligned. To get rid of these, carefully scrape the
ridge with the modeling knife and/or file it down with the needle file
until it is as smooth and even as you can get it. Unfortunately, mold
lines sometimes appear on areas that have a lot of detail, and these
requires extra care and patience to remove.
* Flash - In addition to ugly mold lines, the miniature might also
contain thin pieces of metal sticking out from various places on the
surface. This is called "flash," and it occurs at the places where
the molten metal was infected into to mold. This is removed in the
same way as mold lines, using the modeling knife or needle file to
smooth out the rough areas.
NOTE (repeated from Section 1.3): Always use caution when working with
a sharp knife. Wearing safety goggles and thick gloves will help
prevent injury.
2.2 -- Cleaning
When you buy a new miniature, it needs to be cleaned. During the
casting process, the mold must be lubricated so that the metal will be
able to separate from the mold after it's hardened. Traces of this
lubricant stay on the miniature, and if it is not removed, paint and
glue will not stick to the surface as well. The easiest way to remove
this gunk is to soak the metal parts overnight in white vinegar, and
then rinse them and let then dry. You can also scrub it with a
toothbrush using a grease-cutting cleaning fluid, but the vinegar
method will clean hard-to-reach nooks and crannies and a toothbrush
might miss.
[2] Really? It's that bad? If I ever think to wash a mini (because it
says so in the BMR) I just rinse it in water for a few seconds. :)
[3] For paint to stick long-term, you need to clean the oil off.
[9] I always wash minis (especially plastics) in hot water with dish
washing detergent, and rinse, before painting.
[9] I only soak stuff in vinegar it it's really old and has that white
residue on the surface.. (it also seems to work to get unwanted epoxy
off a mini :)
2.3 -- Gluing
If the miniature comes in two or more pieces, it must now be glued
together. With instant super glue, most of the gluing will be easy.
However, there will be a few stubborn parts that won't seem to stick
together. Just be patient and hold the parts together for as long as
it takes. If a part falls off, clean of the glue with super glue
solvent and let it dry before you try to glue it again.
[2] Question. I've always painted the parts separately before I glued
them together. I'm thinking of switching to doing it that way because
it seems quicker. Is it a commonly accepted rule that it be done this
way? :)
[3] Painting them separately also works, especially if the parts are
large, and it will sometimes make it easier to paint into the small
crevices that might be hard to reach if the part had been glued on.
[9] It really depends on the miniature. With most Mech's, I tend to
glue them apart first.. exceptions I can think of would be the
backpack on the griffin and shadow hawk, and the arms on the Warhammer
and rifleman (which I never actually glued on for that matter :) ).
Most metal minis, I've glued together first. And, if you need putty to
stick together a mini, you should obviously do that first.
[9] It just takes a bit of common sense.. don't glue on anything that
will obscure another part of the mini.
2.4 -- Basing (Optional)
Mounting a miniature on a hex base lets you use it on a hex map. Ral
Partha makes metal hex bases for use with BattleTech miniatures.
Follow the same procedure for cleaning and preparing metal hex bases
as you would for a regular miniature. When the hex base is ready,
glue the miniature to it, making sure to alight it correctly with the
hex faces. If necessary, fill and gaps with epoxy putty
2.5 -- Priming
When all of the glue and epoxy putty is dry, it's time to give the
miniature a coat of primer. Whether you use spray primer or brush-on
primer, give the miniature two or three thin coats instead of one
thick one in order to get an even surface and to preserve small
details on the miniature. Follow the instructions for the brand of
primer that you're using, and give the primer
enough time to dry
[2] A thin coat. Damn, that means I really will have to stop using
paints out of the pot. :)
Once all of these steps have been completed, you can finally begin
painting your miniature...
Section 3 -- PAINTING
This is the part you've been waiting for. Painting miniatures can be
a very enjoyable experience, and mastering it may even help you
achieve oneness with the universe. (Even if it doesn't bring you to a
new level of awareness and enlightenment, it can still be very
gratifying to show people your exquisitely painted mecha miniature.)
3.1 -- Finding and Choosing Paint Schemes
In BattleTech, 'Mech's are usually seen painted in either a regimental
paint scheme or a more functional camouflage pattern. For regimental
paint schemes, refer to the various BattleTech Field Manuals or the
out-of-print Camo Specs book. For camouflage paint schemes, look at
pictures of real-life military vehicles for inspiration and
guidelines. Also, you can just use your imagination and create a
custom paint scheme for each miniature.
3.2 -- Painting Techniques
The actual painting process involves three steps: putting on the base
color, shading, and highlighting.
* Base Color - This will be the basic color of the area that you are
painting, such as blue, red, yellow, etc. Use a size-1 or size-2
brush for larger areas, and a 3/0 or smaller brush for smaller areas.
* Shading - Large objects and small objects reflect light
differently. Because the tiny miniature is used to represent a giant
robot that is about 200 times bigger, you need to add some exaggerated
shading to make the miniature look more in scale with the "real"
mecha. The easiest way for a beginner to do this is to use what is
called a "wash."
In your palette, mix a darker version of the base color. For most
colors, you can do this by mixing in some black, but there are a few
exceptions. If your base color is yellow, use orange or orange-brown
as the shading color. If the base color is orange, use red or dark
red. If the base color is white, use either light gray or light
blue-gray.
Once the paint is mixed, dilute it to a ratio of about 1 part paint to
three parts solvent. If you're using acrylic paint, this usually
means water, but see the footnote below. Now, paint this mixture over
the base color. The darker color will sink into the nooks and
crannies but leave most of the raised areas unaffected. This will
create the illusion of shadows, as well as accentuate the details.
Allow this to dry completely before applying any more paint. If the
wash isn't dark enough, or you diluted it too much, you can always do
a second or even a third wash.
- Footnote: Although you can use water to make a wash with acrylic
paint, the surface tension of water can cause the wash to bead up as
it's drying, which can make the final result look really bad. Because
denatured alcohol doesn't have the surface tension that water has, you
can eliminate the problem by adding a small amount of alcohol to the
wash mixture.
* Drybrushing
Like shading, highlighting your miniature will also help make this
tiny representation of a giant mecha look more in scale with the
"real" thing. Also, like shading, highlighting will help to
accentuate the details of the miniature. In most cases, you can make
a highlight color by mixing the base color with white. If the base
color is red, adding white will make pink, so you might want to add a
little yellow as well to make the color a little warmer. To highlight
a green base color, you can mix green with either white or yellow, or
both.
The easiest method for a beginner to create highlights is with a
method called "drybrushing." First, dip the brush that you've
designated as you drybrush into the highlight color. Then, wipe the
brush on to a rag or cloth. The cloth will absorb the moisture from
the paint, leaving a thick muck on the brush with a heavy
concentration of pigment. Now, lightly dust the area that you want to
highlight with this brush. After a while, you will notice that this
mucky paint sticks only to the raised areas on the surface. As the
brush runs out of paint, reload it with more paint and wipe it on the
cloth again.
If you want, you can mix lighter and lighter highlight colors,
repeating the drybrushing process, using less and less pressure on the
brushstrokes each time.
[2] It seems like whenever I do the 'wipe the brush until there's no
paint coming off' thing I get no paint coming off onto the miniature.
:) Ah hah. So that's not the idea after all?
[1] You are wiping off the paint, not blotting off the moisture.
[3] Drybrushing takes practice. You need to use a thick paint, such
as Liquitex medium-viscosity acrylics. You can use different types of
paint for different jobs on the same miniature, getting the best of
both worlds. The best paint for base coating is not always the best
paint for drybrushing.
[3] For the record, I don't drybrush very often, except for rough
surfaces like fur and chain mail. Instead, I paint highlights on
individually with a liner brush, which gives more control.
Drybrushing is fine for beginners, though, which is who this FAQ is
meant for.
[2] I've never really been able to get drybrushing down pat. Even with
Neil trying to help me. I tend to just "wet brush" them. :)
[1] Well if it's a reddish color, just say it's been rolling in the
mud. Any other color, you'll have to explain the loss of detail.
[9] I dunno.. I guess there's a bit of experience involved, but you
essentially should wipe the brush till there's no more paint, or at
least *all most*- no more paint. But it depends what surface you're
using to wipe on..
Section 4.0 -- FINISHING
4.1 -- Decorating the Base (Optional)
A miniature will look more realistic if the base has been decorated to
look like real terrain. This can mean anything from a simple layer of
turf to elaborate modeling jobs complete with parts of defeated
enemies buried in the ground near the 'Mech's feet. Any of the
techniques used by model railroaders and diorama builders will come in
handy here.
[Scott's Recommendation: Many people recommend using white glue (PVA
glue) to attach turf to a surface. I've found this to be inadequate
because it doesn't hold the turf on very well, and it dissolves with
water. The best method that I've discovered is to use Tamiya clear
acrylic paint as a kind of "glue." I paint it on top of the base and
sprinkle the turf over it. It takes a while to dry, which gives me
time to work with it and clean it away from unwanted places with a wet
brush. When it's dry, it's waterproof and holds the turf on very
well. It's also easy to touch up bare spots by applying another layer
of paint and sprinkling more turf over it. However, because this is
gloss paint, you need to spray on a flat finish when the miniature is
done to cover up the shine. (Some people may actually want the gloss,
and it might be good for creating swamp terrain. You could also
experiment using Tamiya's transparent colors instead of the clear,
since they work the same way.)]
[7] I've had great success making my bases look muddy with the
following technique: combined with appropriate models / grassing /
posing it can be made to look as if the 'Mech is walking over muddy
earth, or just over wet grass that churns up to the footsteps of the
60-ton walking hunk o' death...
Grab some sand, or for that extra poetic justice, fine earth, from
your garden. Remember, you don't want anything larger than sugar
granules, so sift out the pebbles and even the tiny stones first.
Next, mix up a batch of paint in whatever colour you want your earth
to be - again, remember that even the best paints sometimes change
colour slightly when they dry (usually getting lighter and definitely
matter.) so choose carefully.
Mix the sand with an equal volume of PVA {1} glue, then mix into this
mixture twice its volume of paint. With an old brush, of course, of
some stick or something. Then, using an old brush, you can paint this
stuff onto the bottom of your Mech's feet, or up the side of a
vehicle's tracks, and then on the ground, where it's just walked. It's
firm enough to hold any shape you give it, and the PVA glue usually
holds it on and together well enough.
When it dries, it will of course look dry, so if it's supposed to be
wet mud, give it a coat or two of gloss varnish. (Failing that, a coat
or two of PVA glue will have a similar effect - it just doesn't
protect it quite so much and if you put too much on it looks white...)
{1} Polyvinylacetate. I *think* it's referred to as white glue, or
Elmer's glue in the states... but I'm not sure. It's that stuff they
give to kids in preschool to glue collages together with, and the
stuff any good miniature gamer has tons of for gluing polystyrene
together with.
End of [7]:
4.1.1 - Terrain
[4] What techniques do people find satisfactory for painting and
texturing the hex bases for their Mech's? I've used sand and flocking,
but haven't been real satisfied. I've found that kitty litter works
well for "rocky" terrain. What do you like?
[5] I have used small rocks for boulders and even small pieces of
broken safety glass to make like crystalline types of formations. just
use putty to fill in the cracks and the paint it the color I want and
super glue it on there.
[6] Here's a bunch o' stuff to try:
"Claystone Gray" self-hardening clay. Don't even have to paint it if
you don't want to. Makes for an "urban," street environment.
The black 'ballast' sold in model railroad hobby shops; again, urban,
gritty, grainy asphalt. Paint it white for snow recommend: Folk Art's
"Icy White").
The clumpy 'foliage' sold, again, in model RR stores. You can give a
nice 'autumnal' feel to your 30-foot walking tank.
Big (and maybe some smaller) general hobby stores (like an AC Moore)
have all sorts of materials to consider. Try the stuff which is used
in "sand art," which is, as far as I can tell, colored sand. I have
Tupperware bins filled with all manner of "alien soil." Reds,
oranges, deep blues - good stuff, all.
Remember that you are only playing with your figures for a fraction of
the time that they are standing on a shelf, so don't hesitate to flesh
out the base with broken trees, broken buildings, and broken
infantrymen to provide some extra character.
End of: [6] Here's a bunch o' stuff to try:
[8] Well, I tend to concentrate more on the figure itself and less on
the base. Basically, after painting the entire base a grass green I
flock it with my "Mech flock mixture." This primarily consists of WS
green blend flock with a bit of each of the following added:
very fine light gray ballast
very small clumps of foliage in a variety of green colors
tan flock for some dead or seeding grass a pinch or three of each
color in the WS flower pack
It gives the base more of a natural meadow look than the golf
course/park look of just flock.
I also paint the front face of the hex a lighter green for facing.
End of: [8]
4.2 -- Decals
Decals are an easy way to add designs, logos, or identification
numbers to your miniatures. You can buy small-scale decal sheets in
hobby shops, and Warhammer 40K decals are also good for this purpose.
Decals stick better to a smooth surface than a rough one, so it is
best to apply some kind of gloss coat (e.g. Testors High Gloss Enamel)
to a miniature before applying decals, and then spraying with a flat
finish afterwards.
4.3 -- Spraying on a Clear Sealer
Putting some kind of clear finish over your paint job and decals will
preserve them, help keep the paint from peeling, and help the paint
resist bumps to a certain degree. Flat finishes (e.g. Floquil Figure
Flat) are more appropriate for military models. However, a gloss coat
is more solid, protects the miniature better, and resists dirt better.
A compromise can be to first spray on a gloss coat to gain the better
protection, and then spray on a flat finish to dull it down. However,
many people feel that this is putting too many layers of paint onto
the miniature, and that it tend to obscure detail too much.
[Scott Recommendation: I just spray on two layers of Floquil Figure
Flat. Unlike many "flat" or "matte" overcoats, which can be kind of
shiny, this stuff is *dead* flat. It's very harsh on acrylic paint
because it contains so much alcohol, so you need to spray it on
lightly. (If you spray it on at point-blank range, the paint will
literally melt right off the miniature!)]
Section 5.0 -- Miscellaneous (A lot of room for suggestions here)
5.1 -- Stripping Paint
5.2 -- Other Books and Resources of Interest
5.2.1 -- Internet
5.2.2 -- Books & Magazines
[2] Basic colour theory. :)
[3] I think someone e-mailed me a while ago to say that they would
write that section. Was it you?
[2] Yes. Then you asked me to look into heraldry and it rotted my
brain. I'm on hols now so I may have time to do a basic colour theory
primer. Stuff about warm/cold colours, colour opposites, etc. Nothing
about tinctures!
5.2.3 -- Building & Hills Suppliers
[1] Terrakit - www.terrakit.com
[1] GeoHex - www.geohex.com
[11] Warzone Gaming Terrain - not listed in message
[11] Armorcast - not listed in message
[6] What the Model Railroad Guys know as "Z Gauge" works for BT.
http://www.ozdoba.net/zgauge/Zweb.html is 'The Site of Sites' on this
topic. Enjoy.
--
Scott Daniel Ullman
sdullman@i_hate_spam.stanford.ude
(Remove "i_hate_spam" and change "ude" to "edu" to send e-mail.)
--
Terry FitzSimons
FITZS...@MINTEL.NET(Small Letters Only)
REBECCA WARD
Thanks! Ken', will you pick this up and incorporate it, or
at least link to it in the next FAQ revision?
Now, where did I put that Charter?
--
Rebecca Ward
Co-Moderator, Rec.Games.Mecha