Two easy ways to cure your own olives BY ELAINE JOHNSON [Image] If you’ve ever had the misfortune to taste a raw olive, you’ll wonder how its incredibly bitter taste could possibly be removed. Yet the process is quite simple—and the results are delicious. Two of the easiest cures, depend only on water or salt, and time: a month or so, with some daily attention at first, less later on. Water-cured olives, seasoned and preserved with vinegar, start with full-size mature olives—green to purple-black. The cured green olives are firm with a Photos:Christopher faint, intriguing bitterness; black olives are a Irion little softer and mellower. Wizened salt-cured olives, with a distinctive flavor and chewiness, begin as ripe purple-black olives; a coating of salt draws out the bitterness. [Image] • Obtaining fresh olives • Water-cured olives • Salt-cured olives Obtaining fresh olives Fusano California Valley Specialty Olive Company sells cases by mail; 12 jars (4 to 9 oz. each) cost $40 to $50, plus shipping. Call (800) 916-5483 or (510) 486-8772. Some produce markets will special order olives. And in areas of California and Arizona where olive trees flourish, you may find the fruit at farmers’ markets. Or you might be able to pick your own: olive trees are popular in home gardens, and many owners are happy to let you pick their fruit before it falls and stains their pavement or outdoor furniture. Mature green olives are available in November. By December, fruit on the trees will ripen to purple-black. Olives are quite perishable and must be handled gently to avoid bruising, which causes spoilage and off-flavors. Chill olives if you can’t process them immediately. We tested these recipes with olives about an inch long. Bigger olives usually take longer to cure and are often softer. Water-cured Olives PREP AND COOK TIME: About 2-1/2 hours, plus 2 months of daily, then occasional, attention as olives cure and absorb seasonings NOTES: Use white vinegar for green olives, red vinegar for black ones. For seasonings, use olive oil plus minced garlic and/or chopped fresh or dried herbs such as oregano, thyme, or rosemary. MAKES: 2 gallons 2 gallons (10 to 12 lb.) firm olives, green to purple-black 1-1/2 to 2 cups salt 7 cups white or red wine vinegar About 1/2 cup olive oil 1. Sort olives, discarding stems, leaves, and bruised or moldy fruit; rinse olives and drain. With a knife, cut down 1 long side of each olive through to pit. 2. Place olives in 1-gallon or 2-quart jars (glass or plastic; 2 gal. total volume) with noncorrodible lids, filling to within 1 inch of top. Fill jars to brim with water. Partially fill pint-size heavy plastic food bags (1 for each container) with water and seal; set a bag on top of olives in each jar to keep fruit submerged (water will overflow a little). Set jars away from sunlight. 3. Once a day, drain water from the jars, holding olives back with your fingers. Rinse any foam or scum from jars and bags; refill the jars with cool water. (You may see a small amount of harmless bubbling in water; olives will also lose their brightness and leak color into the water.) Repeat daily (it’s fine if you miss a day now and then) until olives have a mild, pleasantly bitter taste, about 5 weeks total. 4. Drain olives and pour salt equally over olives in jars. 5. Pour vinegar and 7 cups water into a 5- to 6-quart pan. Bring to a simmer over high heat. Pour hot liquid over olives to within 1/2 inch of jar rims. Let cool. Pour olive oil on top of liquid in each jar to completely cover surface, then secure lids. 6. Refrigerate olives until vinegar flavor permeates them, 2 to 3 weeks. Taste; if desired, add 1/2 cup more salt equally to jars and chill for 2 more days or up to 6 months. With time, olives become increasingly mellow. Once a month, check oil surface for scum or mold; skim off any. If olives smell fine and are firm, continue to store. If olives smell bad or become soft, discard. 7. To serve, remove desired quantity of olives with a slotted spoon. To season, coat lightly with olive oil and add garlic or herbs to taste (see notes). Salt-cured Olives PREP TIME: About 10 minutes, plus 4 to 5 weeks of daily, then occasional, attention to cure olives MAKES: 1 to 1-1/2 gallons 2 gallons (10 to 12 lb.) firm olives, purple to purple-black About 9 pounds (13 to 14 cups) salt Distilled white vinegar 1. Put olives in a clean, old pillowcase. Set the case, open end up, on a counter. Pour 6 pounds (9 cups) salt over the fruit. Tie bag shut with a rope. 2. In a cool place, suspend bag by rope from a nail or hook (bag should not touch any surface). Once a day, tip bag up to mix fruit and salt. When olives start to drip, after about 3 days, put a container beneath them and mix fruit with salt only once a week. After about 2 weeks, olives drip more and salt gets crusty on fabric. 3. Take out a handful of olives and check for mold (unlikely, but possible). If you see any mold, check the entire batch. Discard olives with more than just a tiny spot of mold. Rinse slightly moldy olives clean in vinegar. Return olives to the bag. Add 1 more cup salt to olives and mix gently. 4. Once a week, repeat step 3. When olives stop dripping and are shriveled, 4 to 5 weeks total, they are ready to eat. 5. Shake olives a portion at a time in a wide-mesh colander to remove loose salt. 6. To serve olives, remove desired quantity and rinse well with cool water; drain. For plumper, less salty olives, soak overnight in cool water; drain. To store up to 6 months, pour olives into glass or plastic jars (1 to 1-1/2 gal. total) and add a total of 1-1/4 cups (1 lb.) salt. Secure lids and tilt jars to mix fruit and salt. Refrigerate. No reliable nutrition information is available for freshly cured olives. One ounce commercially canned ripe olives has: 33 cal., 82% (27 cal.) from fat; 0.2 g protein; 3 g fat (0.4 g sat.); 1.8 g carbo (0.9 g fiber); 247 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. Sodium will be much higher for salt-cured olives; remaining information should be comparable. Copyright 1998 Sunset Publishing Corp.
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Vicky
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