Is it possible to get a 120v cooktop?
Joshua Beall
I've been looking at adding a small separate cooking area in our
finished basement. It doesn't need to be a full powered stovetop with
a half dozen burners and so forth.
I've looked at all the cooktops and oven ranges w/ cooking surfaces,
and everything seems to require a 240v outlet. This is a frustration
because we don't have a 240v outlet in our basement. I am looking for
something lightweight to put in; we don't need a full powered kitchen
down there, just something that we can use to boil water and cook eggs
from time to time. We might also get a small convection oven for
warming foods and so forth.
I've searched online and haven't been able to find anything. I've
found a few posts such as this one -- http://tinyurl.com/8ex2p -- where
it was suggested that they exist, but so far I haven't been able to
actually find one.
Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks for any help! It
would save me a bundle to not have to put in a 240v outlet.
-Josh
wff_ng_7
> I've been looking at adding a small separate cooking area in our
> finished basement. It doesn't need to be a full powered stovetop with
> a half dozen burners and so forth.
>
> I've looked at all the cooktops and oven ranges w/ cooking surfaces,
> and everything seems to require a 240v outlet. This is a frustration
> because we don't have a 240v outlet in our basement. I am looking for
> something lightweight to put in; we don't need a full powered kitchen
> down there, just something that we can use to boil water and cook eggs
> from time to time. We might also get a small convection oven for
> warming foods and so forth.
I think the best you are going to do without adding a 240v circuit is to get
some kind of electric hot plate. In addition to your basement not having a
240v circuit, those 120v ones that are there may be only 15 amp rather than
the 20 amp circuits normally installed in kitchens for wall outlets. For 15
amp 120v service, you are limited to around 1,700 watts total load, for 20
amp 120v service, you are limited to around 2,300 watts. Consider that
single burners on a 240v electric stove are in the range of 1,000 to 2,400
watts for just one burner.
BroilKing makes several double burner hot plates that plug into standard
120v 15 amp outlets, but be aware that if you have both burners on, they are
using 1,650 watts total, so that can be the only thing you are using on that
circuit at the same time. Look at all you want to run concurrently and total
their wattage ratings to see if you are going to run into problems. In my
kitchen I essentially have just one 120v 20 amp circuit for the wall
outlets. I definitely have to watch what I do with the toaster oven, coffee
maker, and microwave. I'll blow a fuse with all three on, and even with two
it's questionable, as the refrigerator is also on that circuit.
The BroilKing double burner hot plates are at
http://www.broilking.com/double_ranges.html. They are available at various
retailers. There are also other manufacturers of similar equipment.
wff_ng_7
825 watts per burner of the double burner hot plates. This one is at
http://www.broilking.com/cast_iron_ranges.html. Browse the site to see what
else they have for what you might want to do.
--
( #wff_ng_7# at #verizon# period #net# )
Donald Tsang
>I've been looking at adding a small separate cooking area in our
>finished basement. It doesn't need to be a full powered stovetop with
>a half dozen burners and so forth.
>
>I've looked at all the cooktops and oven ranges w/ cooking surfaces,
>and everything seems to require a 240v outlet. This is a frustration
>because we don't have a 240v outlet in our basement. I am looking for
>something lightweight to put in; we don't need a full powered kitchen
>down there, just something that we can use to boil water and cook eggs
>from time to time. We might also get a small convection oven for
>warming foods and so forth.
We have a Sunpentown "Mr Induction" 1881W Induction Burner to supplement
our smoothtop halogen range. It's basically the only burner we use
95% of the time; we love it! I was *just* looking at Sunpentown's
website yesterday, and noticed they had professional "install this
permanently"-style single induction burners in both 120V and 240V.
I'm not sure I'd like them as much, because it didn't say anything
about the "pro" induction burners having timers on them, and my wife
absolutely loves the built-in 99-minute timer in combination with the
temperature setting control on "Mr Induction".
We're thinking about getting the new Kenmore Elite 30" burner to replace
the halogen burner in our kitchen, but without a "shut the burner down"
timer, my wife is thinking we'll still need to use the Sunpentown as
well, "so why spend $1500?".
As is usual for induction burners, you need pots and pans that
magnets will stick to...
Donald (no relationship with Sunpentown, except as a satisfied user
of their induction burner; their "Mr Rice" rice cooker
isn't nearly as good -- the condensate-cup warped from
the heat and is no longer usable!)
Joshua Beall
thing I need. As I mentioned in my other post (
http://tinyurl.com/auz5z ), I actually have 40 amps dedicated to this
kitchenette. 2 dedicated outlets at 120v/20amps each. There is other
power in the basement if necessary.
If you have thoughts on the convection oven, let me know. Post asking
about that here: http://tinyurl.com/auz5z
Thanks again!
-Josh
Donald Tsang
> "Joshua Beall" <josh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks for any help! It
>> would save me a bundle to not have to put in a 240v outlet.
>
>your cooking...
He didn't say so, but there could be other reasons he wants a
kitchenette in his basement (for example, a mother-in-law setup?).
When my home theater was in my basement, I often wanted a microwave
and/or toaster oven down there to heat snacks...
Donald
Joshua Beall
that we would like to have a guest area that would allow people staying
for extended periods to have a small and virtually complete
kitchenette. There is also a distinct possibility that it wind up a
"mother-in-law/grandparent" setup at some point in the future. Time
will tell.
Wayne Boatwright
Given all considerations, you might just be better off having a 220 volt line
run in and install standard appliances.
A 110-120 volt cooktop, if it were available, would be sorely disappointing
to cook on, especially if someone has to do it long-term.
--
Wayne Boatwright *¿*
_____________________________
Meet Mr. Bailey
Donald Tsang
>> Yes, sorry I didn't clarify, but part of the reason for this setup is
>> that we would like to have a guest area that would allow people staying
>> for extended periods to have a small and virtually complete
>> kitchenette. There is also a distinct possibility that it wind up a
>> "mother-in-law/grandparent" setup at some point in the future. Time
>> will tell.
>
>Given all considerations, you might just be better off having a 220 volt line
>run in and install standard appliances.
>
>A 110-120 volt cooktop, if it were available, would be sorely disappointing
>to cook on, especially if someone has to do it long-term.
I would have to disagree: in my opinion, two 120V induction burners
will generally outperform four 240V halogen "radiant cooktop" burners
in day-to-day cooking tasks, as well as being a lot safer and heating
up the room at lot less.
Donald
Ward Abbott
(Donald Tsang) wrote:
>I would have to disagree: in my opinion, two 120V induction burners
>will generally outperform four 240V halogen "radiant cooktop" burners
>in day-to-day cooking tasks, as well as being a lot safer and heating
>up the room at lot less.
Wow! Those things are expensive!!
http://www.selectappliance.com/exec/ce-product/ck_mw-1800
For that amount of money, I would consider a rewire job and buy
ordinary appliances at a fraction of the cost. Seven Hundred for a
single burner when you could buy an ordinary 30" range for 400.
Donald Tsang
Bah. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0007W1AB4/
$119 plus shipping, even comes with a compatible pan.
Donald
Wayne Boatwright
Yes, but how does the cooking power compare to resistance heating at 120
volts and at 240 volts?
I have to admit that I've never used an induction unit at either voltage,
but resistance heating at 120 volts isn't even worth the bother.
Donald Tsang
>>>>I would have to disagree: in my opinion, two 120V induction burners
>>>>will generally outperform four 240V halogen "radiant cooktop" burners
>>>>in day-to-day cooking tasks, as well as being a lot safer and heating
>>>>up the room at lot less.
>>>
>
>Yes, but how does the cooking power compare to resistance heating at 120
>volts and at 240 volts?
>
>I have to admit that I've never used an induction unit at either voltage,
>but resistance heating at 120 volts isn't even worth the bother.
Certainly. Try induction at 120V sometime. They say induction heats
at something like 85% efficiency, while resistance is in the low 30%
range...
Donald
Joshua Beall
model from Sunpentown and the ones with the ceramic glass? What's the
advantage of the glass?
-jb
Wayne Boatwright
I don't see a description of what the "regular" top is made of. However,
ceramic glass will probably be more durable and more cleanable.
Edwin Pawlowski
> I would have to disagree: in my opinion, two 120V induction burners
> will generally outperform four 240V halogen "radiant cooktop" burners
> in day-to-day cooking tasks, as well as being a lot safer and heating
> up the room at lot less.
>
> Donald
Perhaps, but you need two circuits to run them. If you are going to do
that ,just run the 240 and put in a cooktop.
Joshua Beall
would cost us a penny or two to have to rip out drywall and run a new
line from the breaker box (which is on the far side of the house).
Incidentally, any thoughts on the difference between the regular Mr.
Induction and the ones with the ceramic glass tops?
http://www.sunpentown.com/sr1881.htm - ceramic glass
http://www.sunpentown.com/sr1851.htm - regular
Wayne Boatwright
> The thing is we already have 2 120v/20amps circuits right there. It
> would cost us a penny or two to have to rip out drywall and run a new
> line from the breaker box (which is on the far side of the house).
I understand your reasoning, but I believe you have already made up your
mind to stay with 120 volt cooking units, and only want someone here to
validate your decision. Sorry, but I can't validate that.
If this were just a short term solution, then I would probably go with
something that runs on 120. However, for anything more permanent I
wouldn't hestitate to go through the expense and work of putting in the
220. That's just me, and I like having things done right.
IIRC, you said that at some point in time this area might become a
permanent or semi-permanent inlaw suite. Picture yourself having to use
these portable 120 volt units day-in and day-out for all your surface
cooking needs. If I were faced with that, I wouldn't move in.
> Incidentally, any thoughts on the difference between the regular Mr.
> Induction and the ones with the ceramic glass tops?
>
> http://www.sunpentown.com/sr1881.htm - ceramic glass
> http://www.sunpentown.com/sr1851.htm - regular
I posted before that a ceramic glass surface will be more cleanable and
more durable. I still haven't seen a description of the "regular" top.
--
Wayne Boatwright *¿*
_____________________________________________
A chicken in every pot is a *LOT* of chicken!
wff_ng_7
> IIRC, you said that at some point in time this area might become a
> permanent or semi-permanent inlaw suite. Picture yourself having to use
> these portable 120 volt units day-in and day-out for all your surface
> cooking needs. If I were faced with that, I wouldn't move in.
But maybe those who might use it aren't cooks to begin with and they don't
plan on eating a lot of meals there. Then there's the new "kitchen
triangle", consisting of the refrigerator, the microwave, and the trash can.
Take a dinner out of the freezer, pop it in the microwave, and toss the box
in the trash. With paper plates and plastic forks, even the sink is
optional.
There's a broad range of lifestyles, and having a cooktop available might
not be all that important. I had neighbors who had this beautiful pot rack
hanging from their kitchen ceiling full of nice cookware. But not once did I
see a pot ever come down from that rack. Their trash, which unfortunately
they didn't bag that securely (the squirrels and such got to it), confirmed
my suspicions of what they ate. It was almost all microwave and take out
food boxes.
A hotplate for the occassional fried egg might be enough.
Wayne Boatwright
If all that were true (and maybe it is), then it hardly begged such
prolonged bantering between the OP an everyone else. It should/could have
been a decision easily reached.
There are *no* 120 volt cooktops, in the sense of a traditionally styled
cooktop.
The options are clearly either a "hotplate" style coil unit or a more
expensive induction unit. How difficult can that be?
KLS
wrote:
>There's a broad range of lifestyles, and having a cooktop available might
>not be all that important. I had neighbors who had this beautiful pot rack
>hanging from their kitchen ceiling full of nice cookware. But not once did I
>see a pot ever come down from that rack. Their trash, which unfortunately
>they didn't bag that securely (the squirrels and such got to it), confirmed
>my suspicions of what they ate. It was almost all microwave and take out
>food boxes.
Ew. Life for me would not be worth living if I were limited to eating
that crap. I use my Henckels knives, my Emeril ware, my Le Creuset
(mostly my 8.75 qt. French oven), and my cheap glass lasagna trays
constantly, and we eat great in this house. Comfort food, truly.
Wayne Boatwright
Agreed! If I had to eat like the previous poster described, I'd sooner
have my mouth sewn shut.
Joshua Beall
> On Thu 03 Nov 2005 06:21:20a, Joshua Beall wrote in rec.food.equipment:
> If this were just a short term solution, then I would probably go with
> something that runs on 120. However, for anything more permanent I
> wouldn't hestitate to go through the expense and work of putting in the
> 220. That's just me, and I like having things done right.
It is a short term solution, for the short term. In the event that it
would have to be more permanent we would consider more seriously
ripping out drywall and running a 220 line. But I don't want to do
that right away.
Thanks for all the comments, I think I'lll give the induction unit a go
and we'll see how it works.
-jb
Wayne Boatwright
Sounds like a plan, Joshua. Good luck!
--
Wayne Boatwright *¿*
____________________________________________
Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day.
Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974
Karen Wheless
> permanent or semi-permanent inlaw suite. Picture yourself having to use
> these portable 120 volt units day-in and day-out for all your surface
> cooking needs. If I were faced with that, I wouldn't move in.
I live in a very tiny NY apartment, that was originally a garage. The
kitchen is small, and because of the way it was cut out of the original
space, it doesn't have very much usable space. My former apartment had
a galley kitchen that was smaller, but was better designed and had more
usable space. (This kitchen also includes the front door to the
apartment, doors to the LR, BR and bath, the hot water heater, the
furnace, the only closet in the apartment, etc.)
The kitchen has a small 4 burner gas range wedged into the corner. When
I first looked at the apartment, I was pleased to see a "regular" stove,
which isn't necessarily a standard feature in NY apartments. But I
didn't realize how small it was. The burners are so small and so
bunched together that you can't fit two normal-sized pans next to each
other. They'll bang into each other and run into the wall and leave
scorch marks. Only the front right burner is really usable - I can use
a small saucepan on the back left burner at the same time but I have to
be really careful not to push it up against the wall and leave scorch
marks. (I don't know who this stove was made for - dolls? People who
only use 8" cookware? Mobile homes? The brand name has worn off but
it's a regular stove, just very small.)
If the space is so small that a regular stove won't fit, then having two
good burners might be better for cooking than a too-small stove. I
would rather have two usable burners, well placed and reasonably sized,
instead of these four tiny burners, squeezed so close together that none
of them are really useful.
(I haven't used a 120V cooktop so I don't know if the burners would be
powerful enough. If not, that would be a major drawback.)
Karen
greg...@yahoo.com
>
>The thing is we already have 2 120v/20amps circuits right there. It
>would cost us a penny or two to have to rip out drywall and run a new
>line from the breaker box (which is on the far side of the house).
>
It's possible that you or your electrician could rewire one of the "dedicated"
20 amp lines to 240 volts
with a double-pole breaker at the panel. That would give you 4800 watts. GE has
an inexpensive 2-
burner coil cooktop; Kitchenaid and others have 2-burner smoothtops.
Greg