Specific Viking/DCS and sealed verus open burner questions
Kathy Kost
I've been researching online for the past few days, including searching
the archives of this newsgroup. Almost all of the posts I'm finding about
Viking and DCS ranges are back in 2001 and some 2002. Here are some
of the questions I still have:
1. I'm still confused about sealed versus open burners. Seems like there
are varied opinions about cleanability. One appliance dealer (and avid
cook) said that although Vikings have the drip pan and you can pull out
the parts to clean, that grease and dirt can collect *in between* the pan
and the cleanable parts as it makes it's way downward to the pan. I've
never
seen anyone reference this. Has anyone with a Viking notice this as a
problem?
2. Also about sealed versus open burners: I've seen references as to the
burning efficiency of both. Some say you get better air flow with the open
design and that sealed burners don't have as "upright" a flame as the open
burners. Any comments on that?
3. We're primarily looking at Viking and DCS. Will look at Wolf today but
suspect it's out of our price range. Looking at a 30" unit. How do the
build
quality of these brands compare these days (versus all the old posts I've
found). Any comments on customer service from the various companies?
(good/bad/indifferent)
4. Last is due to my lack of experience in this as I've always cooked with
electric stoves (convection and non). We plan to use the oven for various
purposes, so leaning towards gas. How do gas convection ovens compare
to electric when baking? If it wasn't convection I would think the gas
would pale in comparison, but with convection I'm hoping it works well
enough.
Thanks for the help!
Kathy
Anita P. Ness
>3. We're primarily looking at Viking and DCS. Will look at Wolf today but
>suspect it's out of our price range. Looking at a 30" unit. How do the
>build
>quality of these brands compare these days (versus all the old posts I've
>found). Any comments on customer service from the various companies?
I am getting ready to build and buying appliances now. Looked at Viking (and
having that "V" on the front of a burner actually doesn't make it a better
rangetop)...DSC, Five Star, and finally have decided on Wolf. I wanted a 36"
four burner with grill....not griddle. Wolf is the only one with an infared
grill.
As for the open burner vs. sealed....the open burners have a higher BTU
rating...but when you are getting to 14,000 and up...what difference would a
couple of thousand BTU mean at that point.
Mickey Zalusky
also. After test driving Viking, DCS, Thermador, Dynasty and Wolfe, we
decided on the Wolfe 6-burner rangetop. IMHO it has the best of both
worlds. It has drip pans that fit very close to the actual burners but
but are not sealed. It also has a large stainless steel drip pan, just
in case big spills happen. I love that you can dis-assemble and take
each drip pan to the sink for cleaning, unlike sealed burners.
A few other features that helped firm up our decision to go Wolfe:
• Bring one of your smallest saucepans and set it atop each of the
grates. We found that some grate designs were such that our small pan
wobbled.
• If you're fortunate to try an operating gas unit, with the flame on
low, try blowing out the flame and see if it automatically re-ignites or
not. Automatic re-iginition is not standard on all models. If memory
serves correct, the Dynasty did not.
Mickey
Don Wiss
>A few other features that helped firm up our decision to go Wolfe:
>
>• Bring one of your smallest saucepans and set it atop each of the
>grates. We found that some grate designs were such that our small pan
>wobbled.
The problem I have with this range, and it may apply to all the other pro
ranges, is they are designed for 24" deep counters. I'm a big fan of having
30" deep counters. Much more practical. When you force the range into 24" a
large frying pan will encroach on the burner space in front or behind.
Don <donwiss at panix.com>.
Kathy Kost
we're buying on Tuesday
to do the measuring thing, but I believe unless we want to do a cabinet
remodel, we're stuck with the
30" model. Good point about bringing a pan to see if it wobbles. That is
one of my husband's biggest
gripes about our current GE Profile gas cooktop. I was surprised to see
that the Wolf range was pretty
similar in price to the Viking we were looking at, so it's down to those
two. I'm leaning towards the
Viking but intend to look at them both again, with pan in hand. I like the
fact that you can take it all
apart to clean and like the design of the open burners. The only thing I
don't know is if I want to go
for the self-cleaning versus the non. Anyone have a self-cleaning gas
version? Wondering how well
it works and if it's worth the extra $500!
Kathy
"Don Wiss" <donwiss@no_spam.com> wrote in message
news:v28jm0hbplcpptlsh...@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 09 Oct 2004, Mickey Zalusky <mic...@zalusky.com> wrote:
>
>>A few other features that helped firm up our decision to go Wolfe:
>>
>>. Bring one of your smallest saucepans and set it atop each of the
Michael
"Kathy Kost" <kat...@blarg.net> wrote in message
news:10mgasp...@corp.supernews.com...
> Hello --
>
I have a 48" DCS range and wouldn't buy a stick of gum from these people
again. Quality is so-so and customer service is non-existant. Buy anything
but a DCS.
David Prall
I have a 60" Wolf, that I absolutely love. We have 6 kids and the automatic
reignition is very important. The way the knobs lock was another. In
looking at ranges we found that the Wolf best met our requirements. If your
worried about wobbling pans, have a look at the S-Grates as an option, we
have them on 4 of our burners. The convection gas stove worked wonderfully
last night to cook Chicken Breasts on one rack, potato wedges on another,
and biscuits on a third, leaving the second stove empty and off.
Our decision process included talking with a friend who has had a Viking 48"
for 12 years. 2 of the grates had broken, and Viking has changed the design
so that the new grates don't fit. They gave up on looking and now only have
4 usable burners.
David
"Kathy Kost" <kat...@blarg.net> wrote in message
news:10mjlcg...@corp.supernews.com...
Colin
Yes, and it's also required by UL (and thus essentially the law) on
ranges without pilot lights (which are 99% of them).
Colin
Vox Humana
"Colin" <co...@povey.org> wrote in message
news:8094abe6.04101...@posting.google.com...
Is that a recent law? My range is about 8 years old, pilotless, and doesn't
have automatic reignition.
George Shirley
as I am thinking of replacing an electric range with a gas one.
George
Michael
"George Shirley" <gsh...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:7rbdd.85070$yp.7...@bignews1.bellsouth.net...
> And how do I light the thing when the power goes off? Serious question
> as I am thinking of replacing an electric range with a gas one.
I personally use fire. Either match (not recommended but you may be faster
than I) or a long mantle gas lighter.
George Shirley
already have one. My real question should have been "Can you light one
with fire if the power is off or does the gas fail-safe to off when the
power is off. Last gas stove I owned was a 1940's Chambers one so you
can see my confusion. On that one there were pilot lights. Thanks.
George
Edwin Pawlowski
"George Shirley" <gsh...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> I would use my grill propane lighter myself, particularly since I already
> have one. My real question should have been "Can you light one with fire
> if the power is off or does the gas fail-safe to off when the power is
> off. Last gas stove I owned was a 1940's Chambers one so you can see my
> confusion. On that one there were pilot lights. Thanks.
>
> George
I don't know if things have changed on newer units, but at least a few years
ago all you did was turn the burner gas on and light it. Nice feeling after
a big storm that knocked power out.
The oven would not light though as it needs an ignition module to glow.
Any gas range that has electricity for controls or timers MUST have an
electronic ignition rather than a pilot light. The few ranges made that do
not have any electric to them may still have a pilot light.
The theory behind the pilotless ignition is to save gas. Any time you don't
want to heat the house, it is a savings. In the winter, slight as it is,
the pilot light is just adding to the heat needed to keep you warm. Same as
turning lights on. OTOH, in warm climates you don't wan the heat or you are
paying to run an AC to remove it.
Mark Willstatter
It must be a *very* new rule ;^) I bought a cooktop (KitchenAid) two
years ago and am now in a new house with vintage 2004 Maytag gas range
- both pilotless, neither with auto-reignition.