"The fact remains that Shirley has staying power. This is a
drink invented for a young Hollywood starlet almost a
century ago that is still being ordered today—on viral Instagram accounts
and in bars on the Upper East Side of Manhattan.
https://www.thrillist.com/drink/nation/shirley-temple-original-mocktail-recipe
How Did the Shirley Temple Become the OG Mocktail?
And why this grenadine darling has stood the test of time.
By Jess Mayhugh Published on 1/24/2022
"This past fall, I was sitting at a marble bar in a New York City restaurant, reading a book and waiting on a burger. A server came up to the bartender
to put in a ticket. “Is this right?” the bartender asked. “Yup, eight Shirley Temples.” I watched the server deliver the cherry-red drinks, in skinny
pint glasses with striped straws sticking out, to a table of women well
over 21 years old. Wow, I thought, people are still ordering these.
My Shirley Temples associations begin and end with childhood
memories of ordering the drink at a steakhouse when my parents
got cocktails. The snappy maraschino cherry, sizzling 7-Up, and
silky grenadine syrup were all very distant memories. But as
spirit-free cocktails have become commonplace on menus and
zero-proof books and products line more shelves, I wondered if
Shirley Temples were making a comeback—or if they ever really
went away at all?
“The ingredients in a Shirley Temple are common ones found
behind a bar and used in a lot of cocktails: lemon-lime soda or
ginger ale and grenadine,” says Derek Brown, who owns DC bars
Columbia Room and Disco Mary and just released the book
Mindful Mixology. “For a very long time, if you were ordering a
non-alcoholic drink, there weren’t many options besides that or
a Roy Rogers. And any time something has been around for a
long time, there’s a reason.”
The invention of the Shirley Temple dates back to, of course, the
actress Shirley Temple. Hollywood lore has it that, in the 1930s,
the child actress was dining at legendary restaurant Chasen’s and
wanted to have a cocktail she was allowed to drink.
“Not a lot of young stars were going to big, swanky restaurants
like that,” says Alison Martino, a LA historian and contributor to
Los Angeles Magazine. “So it was probably a big deal for her to
go in and they wanted to make her feel like she was an adult. When
I went into Chasen’s as a kid, our server would always ask, ‘Would
you like a Shirley Temple, like the actress?’”
Chasen’s was “Old Hollywood personified,” Martino remembers, saying
she saw Frank Sinatra there and her parents would see Elizabeth Taylor
and Clint Eastwood. It was all windowless wood paneling and decadent
red leather booths—some of which sold for a pretty penny at auction
when the restaurant closed in 1995.
Besides its star-studded guest list (and famous chili that Taylor
would have shipped to her all over the world), the lasting legacy
of Chasen’s is the Shirley Temple cocktail. Kids of all eras continue
to order the drink to feel fancy. One such kid, Leo Kelly, aka the
Shirley Temple King, started giving critiques of the drink on
Instagram at age 6 and even launched his own line of the drink
that includes cotton candy and ice cream as garnishes.
Holy sugar rush.
But there are craftier and more sophisticated versions of Shirley
Temples out there, both on cocktail menus and on shelves. Plus,
companies like Jack Rudy and Liber & Co. are making grenadine
with quality, natural ingredients that give that dusty bottle of
Rose’s in your grandparents’ pantry a run for its money.
“Grenadine is really cool because it has this combination of exoticism
and universal appeal,” says Adam Higginbotham, the co-founder of
Austin-based Liber & Co. “Everyone knows it as a sweet-tart fruit
syrup that is this gorgeous red color. But it has a lot of complex floral
and tannic elements to it, too.”
Perhaps the allure of the Shirley Temple is tied to grenadine itself.
Most people assume, like I did for decades, that grenadine is just
cherry simple syrup. And there’s the commonly held belief that it’s
actually pomegranate juice (pomegranate in French is grenade,
after all). Then, just last year, an essay came out from drink historian
Darcy O’Neill positing that, depending on the era, grenadine has been
made with all sorts of ingredients including clove oil, maraschino
liqueur, and even raspberry essence.
No matter what it’s made of (in Liber’s case, it’s California-sourced pomegranate, orange blossom water, and cane sugar), grenadine
is a bar staple. You’ll find it in everything from Trader Vic-style tiki
drinks to Hurricanes on Bourbon Street. The syrup’s ubiquity is
another huge reason why Shirley Temples have stuck around. Any
bar, anywhere, can make you one.
For Higginbotham, the drink brings him back to a road trip he took
to a small town in Central Texas with his grandparents. They stopped
into an old fashioned soda shop in a town square and that’s where
he sipped on his first one. “I associate it with that middle America,
diner experience,” he says. “My grandmother probably made it with
Rose’s and ginger ale and it made you feel way more grown up
than just having an ice cream cone.”
Judging that it’s one of Liber’s more popular of its 16 syrups,
Higginbotham thinks people are making a rediscovery of grenadine
and, by proxy, Shirley Temples. He says he likes hearing about
more modern versions made with small-batch ginger beer or
freshly squeezed lime juice.
Brown, who says he was more of a soda and Slurpee kind of kid, admits
that fresh lime juice and housemade grenadine are surely improvements
on the classic Shirley Temple. But he hopes that people realize the
drink is merely the tip of the iceberg when it comes to non-alcoholic
options these days.
“For some people, Dry January is just a month and for others, it’s their
whole life,” Brown says. “This is about choices and there should be
options that are low- and no-alcohol on every menu that, in all
fairness, go well beyond the Shirley Temple.”
But the fact remains that Shirley has staying power. This is a
drink invented for a young Hollywood starlet almost a century
ago that is still being ordered today—on viral Instagram accounts
and in bars on the Upper East Side of Manhattan.
“I still order them about once a week, it’s the truth,” Martino says
with a laugh. “Sometimes waiters think it’s charming and some
can’t believe I’m serious. I don’t know if it’s a childhood thing of
feeling safe or what. But when they’re done right, they’re just
delicious.”
Liber Shirley Temple Recipe
Ingredients:
• ½ ounces Fiery Ginger Syrup
• ½ ounces Real Grenadine
• ¾ ounces lime juice
• 2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters
• soda water
Directions:
Add syrups, lime juice and bitters to a highball glass filled with ice. Top
with soda water and stir. Service in a highball glass garnished with a
lime wheel and cherry..."
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