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Why does my gnocchi taste like rubber?

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Benjamin Johnston

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May 1, 2004, 2:56:05 AM5/1/04
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Hi,

I've almost given up on gnocchi. I've tried making it many times - with
varying amounts of potato, flour and semolina. I've tried kneading it for
different lengths of time. I've tried several recipies. But I just can't get
my gnocchi to taste anywhere near the stuff you get in restaurants or even
from a supermarket.

Every single time it comes out rubbery. Really heavy and dense and rubbery.
I'm pretty sure it isn't a problem with the cooking - because I can cook
store-bought gnocchi fine. I'm pretty sure I must be doing something wrong
during the preparation.

Any ideas?

Thanks a lot,

-Benjamin Johnston

Mia

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May 1, 2004, 5:33:48 AM5/1/04
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"Benjamin Johnston" <supe...@benjaminjohnston.com.au> wrote in message
news:40934922$0$16585$5a62...@freenews.iinet.net.au...
Hi Benjamin,

I learned this recipe for gnocchi in a class on Italian cooking ... they
always turn out light and fluffy, probably because teh recipe doesn't use
potato. It's also pretty easy:

Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi

1T Finely chopped onion
2 T Butter
2T finely chopped mortedella or pancetta
1 10-ounce package of frozen spinach (defrosted and squeezed dry) or 1-pound
fresh spinach
¾ Cup ricotta cheese
2/3 Cup AP Flour
2 Egg Yolks
1 Cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
Melted butter
Parmesan


Method
In a skillet, over medium heat sauté onion in the butter until pale gold.
Add chopped mortadella and sauté for about a minute.
Add spinach and ¼ t of salt and sauté for about 4 minutes.
Transfer contents of pan to bowl. Add ricotta and flour. Stir to combine.
Add egg yolks, cheese and nutmeg. Taste and correct for salt. Make small
pellets and place on floured baking sheet.

To cook gnocchi: Bring 4 quarts of salted water to a boil.
Drop the gnocchi a few at a time and cook for about 2-3 minutes. Retreive
gnocchi with slotted spoon and place in baking pan. Drizzle with melted
butter and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese and place under a broiler until
gratineed.

Enjoy,
Mia


Bob (this one)

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May 1, 2004, 5:55:16 AM5/1/04
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Benjamin Johnston wrote:

The first thing that occurs to me is that you're overhandling them.
The less kneading, the better. Restaurants and supermarkets buy theirs
from commercial producers who make them by machine. Yours will most
likely be denser just because of the differences in making them. You
might try making them smaller.

Pastorio

Tesoro

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May 1, 2004, 8:10:39 AM5/1/04
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"Benjamin Johnston" <supe...@benjaminjohnston.com.au> wrote in message
news:40934922$0$16585$5a62...@freenews.iinet.net.au...
>

Ben, it sounds like a classic case of "over working" the dough. Incorporate
your ingredients but don't spend a lot of time trying to get the dough to be
too much like a bread dough.


PENMART01

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May 1, 2004, 8:40:39 AM5/1/04
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>"Benjamin Johnston" writes:
>>
>> I've almost given up on gnocchi. I've tried making it many times - with
>> varying amounts of potato, flour and semolina. I've tried kneading it for
>> different lengths of time. I've tried several recipies. But I just can't
>get
>> my gnocchi to taste anywhere near the stuff you get in restaurants or even
>> from a supermarket.
>>
>> Every single time it comes out rubbery. Really heavy and dense and
>rubbery.
>> I'm pretty sure it isn't a problem with the cooking - because I can cook
>> store-bought gnocchi fine. I'm pretty sure I must be doing something wrong
>> during the preparation.
>>
>> Any ideas?

A good idea is to post your recipe, lacking that no one can do more than make
wild speculations.

Good info here:
http://www.e-rcps.com/pasta/rcp/gnocchi/index.shtml


---= BOYCOTT FRANCE (belgium) GERMANY--SPAIN =---
---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =---
*********
"Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."
Sheldon
````````````

anna maria

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May 1, 2004, 10:43:26 AM5/1/04
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Benjamin Johnston wrote:

Probably kneading too much and incorporating too
much flower. I will post my recipe step by step on
my site next week. I hope it will help.

Ciao,

Anna Maria

http://www.annamariavolpi.com/page28.html

anna maria

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May 1, 2004, 10:46:11 AM5/1/04
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Mia wrote:

> "Benjamin Johnston" <supe...@benjaminjohnston.com.au> wrote in message
> news:40934922$0$16585$5a62...@freenews.iinet.net.au...
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>I've almost given up on gnocchi.
>>

>>Any ideas?
>>
>>Thanks a lot,
>>
>>-Benjamin Johnston
>>
>
> Hi Benjamin,
>
> I learned this recipe for gnocchi in a class on Italian cooking ... they
> always turn out light and fluffy, probably because teh recipe doesn't use
> potato. It's also pretty easy:
>
> Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi
>
>

> Enjoy,
> Mia
>
>

I agree that gnocchi is a generic word for
"dumplings", and there are many types with all
sorts of ingredients, but seems to me that
Benjamin refers specifically to potato gnocchi.

Mia

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May 1, 2004, 12:29:50 PM5/1/04
to

"anna maria" <an...@removethis.annamariavolpi.com> wrote in message
news:TKOkc.67377$G_....@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...

Yes, I know ... but after eating this light alternative to potato gnocchi, I
liked it so much better that I thought I'd share this recipe in case he felt
like trying something different.

Thanks,
Mia


Bubbablue

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May 1, 2004, 8:33:03 PM5/1/04
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"Benjamin Johnston" <supe...@benjaminjohnston.com.au> wrote in message news:<40934922$0$16585$5a62...@freenews.iinet.net.au>...

You might be overworking the dough, or you might be using flour with
too much gluten. I don't know how flour is marketed in Australia, but
you want a flour similar to American pastry flour, which is grown from
'soft' winter wheat.

Flour made from hard durum spring wheat (such as US bread flour or
Canadian all-purpose flour) is higher in gluten and does tend to
become tough with excess handling. This makes it ideal for breadmaking
but not so good for gnocchi, cakes, or pastry.

wd40

Darryl L. Pierce

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May 2, 2004, 7:23:54 AM5/2/04
to
Benjamin Johnston wrote:

> Every single time it comes out rubbery. Really heavy and dense and
> rubbery. I'm pretty sure it isn't a problem with the cooking - because I
> can cook store-bought gnocchi fine. I'm pretty sure I must be doing
> something wrong during the preparation.
>
> Any ideas?

The rubberiness is from overworking the dough. I'm not sure of your
technique, but the way to make the dough is:

1. build your pile of flour, and hollow out a crater in the middle
2. pour your liquids into the crater, being sure to keep the sides from
collapsing
3. using your finger, slowing incorporate flour into the liquid, allowing
the liquid to pull in only as much flour as it needs and no more
4. when it has absorbed enough flour to be sticky but hold together, work
the dough until is has smooth surface
5. roll into a ball, flatten the ball, wrap in plastic and put it in the
fridge for about an hour to hydrate

--
Darryl L. Pierce <mcpi...@myrealbox.com>
Visit the Infobahn Offramp - <http://mypage.org/mcpierce>
"What do you care what other people think, Mr. Feynman?"

Benjamin Johnston

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May 2, 2004, 8:58:17 AM5/2/04
to
> > I agree that gnocchi is a generic word for
> > "dumplings", and there are many types with all
> > sorts of ingredients, but seems to me that
> > Benjamin refers specifically to potato gnocchi.
>
> Yes, I know ... but after eating this light alternative to potato gnocchi,
I
> liked it so much better that I thought I'd share this recipe in case he
felt
> like trying something different.
>
> Thanks,
> Mia

I was referring to potato gnocchi, but I appreciate this other recipe...
I'll certainly give it a try.

Thanks.

-Benjamin Johnston

Benjamin Johnston

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May 2, 2004, 9:04:08 AM5/2/04
to

Thank you everybody... I guess the verdict is pretty clear: overworking the
dough.

I'll give the technique suggested by Darryl a go, and maybe try using low
gluten bread as suggested by Bubbablue.

And everybody else: Mia, anna maria, Bob (this one) and Tesoro - thanks a
lot for your comments and recipes...

-Benjamin Johnston

"Benjamin Johnston" <supe...@benjaminjohnston.com.au> wrote in message
news:40934922$0$16585$5a62...@freenews.iinet.net.au...
>

Peter Aitken

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May 2, 2004, 11:34:42 AM5/2/04
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"Darryl L. Pierce" <mcpi...@myrealbox.com> wrote in message
news:5a9e42ae594c7f8d...@news.teranews.com...

> Benjamin Johnston wrote:
>
> > Every single time it comes out rubbery. Really heavy and dense and
> > rubbery. I'm pretty sure it isn't a problem with the cooking - because I
> > can cook store-bought gnocchi fine. I'm pretty sure I must be doing
> > something wrong during the preparation.
> >
> > Any ideas?
>
> The rubberiness is from overworking the dough. I'm not sure of your
> technique, but the way to make the dough is:
>
> 1. build your pile of flour, and hollow out a crater in the middle
> 2. pour your liquids into the crater, being sure to keep the sides from
> collapsing
> 3. using your finger, slowing incorporate flour into the liquid, allowing
> the liquid to pull in only as much flour as it needs and no more
> 4. when it has absorbed enough flour to be sticky but hold together, work
> the dough until is has smooth surface
> 5. roll into a ball, flatten the ball, wrap in plastic and put it in the
> fridge for about an hour to hydrate
>
> --

Where are the potatoes? I neve heard of gnocchi made with just flour.


--
Peter Aitken

Remove the crap from my email address before using.


jmcquown

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May 2, 2004, 12:43:21 PM5/2/04
to
Peter Aitken wrote:
> "Darryl L. Pierce" <mcpi...@myrealbox.com> wrote in message
> news:5a9e42ae594c7f8d...@news.teranews.com...
>> Benjamin Johnston wrote:
>>
>>> Every single time it comes out rubbery. Really heavy and dense and
>>> rubbery.

>> The rubberiness is from overworking the dough. I'm not sure of your


>> technique, but the way to make the dough is:
>>
>> 1. build your pile of flour, and hollow out a crater in the middle
>> 2. pour your liquids into the crater, being sure to keep the sides
>> from collapsing

>> --
>
> Where are the potatoes? I neve heard of gnocchi made with just flour.

Gnocchi means "little dumpling" or something roughly equivalent to that.
There's all different kinds of gnocchi - potato, flour, spinach...

My favourite gnocchi recipe calls for pumpkin pulp. I've adapted the recipe
(from 'La Cuchina') so as to use canned pumpkin, *not* the pie filling
stuff! Fresh pumpkin is only available seasonally around here in the
mid-South.

1-3/4 lb. canned pumpkin puree
3/4 c. butter
salt & pepper to taste
1/4 lb. emmental cheese
1/4 lb. gouda cheese
1/4 lb. bergkase cheese*
2 eggs
1 c. white flour
3 sprigs of sage leaves

NOTE: I can never find this cheese; a fresh chevre works nicely.

Chop up all the cheeses and mix them together, then add them to the pumpkin
puree and mix well. Add the eggs and flour and work just until you have a
fairly stiff mixture. Pinch off into many little gnocchis.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Tip the gnocchi into
the water, in batches, for about 3 minutes. When they begin to float,
remove them with a slotted spoon to a serving dish.

In a frying pan, melt the butter and add the sage and heat through. Season
the gnocchi with the sage butter.

Jill


Bob (this one)

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May 2, 2004, 1:19:54 PM5/2/04
to
Benjamin Johnston wrote:

> Thank you everybody... I guess the verdict is pretty clear: overworking the
> dough.
>
> I'll give the technique suggested by Darryl a go, and maybe try using low
> gluten bread as suggested by Bubbablue.

Darryl's technique is a good one, but for plain pasta; no potatoes are
indicated in this one.

Use AP flour, just don't work it so much.

Or, alternatively, try to work it less and, in any event, let it rest,
covered, for 20 or 30 minutes to relax.

Pastorio

Darryl L. Pierce

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May 3, 2004, 6:57:02 AM5/3/04
to
Peter Aitken wrote:

>> The rubberiness is from overworking the dough. I'm not sure of your
>> technique, but the way to make the dough is:
>>
>> 1. build your pile of flour, and hollow out a crater in the middle
>> 2. pour your liquids into the crater, being sure to keep the sides from
>> collapsing
>> 3. using your finger, slowing incorporate flour into the liquid, allowing
>> the liquid to pull in only as much flour as it needs and no more
>> 4. when it has absorbed enough flour to be sticky but hold together, work
>> the dough until is has smooth surface
>> 5. roll into a ball, flatten the ball, wrap in plastic and put it in the
>> fridge for about an hour to hydrate
>

> Where are the potatoes? I neve heard of gnocchi made with just flour.

I said nothing about filling. I gave directions for making the pasta only.

Tim Challenger

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May 3, 2004, 7:22:25 AM5/3/04
to
On Mon, 03 May 2004 10:57:02 GMT, Darryl L. Pierce wrote:

> Peter Aitken wrote:
>
>>> The rubberiness is from overworking the dough. I'm not sure of your
>>> technique, but the way to make the dough is:
>>>
>>> 1. build your pile of flour, and hollow out a crater in the middle
>>> 2. pour your liquids into the crater, being sure to keep the sides from
>>> collapsing
>>> 3. using your finger, slowing incorporate flour into the liquid, allowing
>>> the liquid to pull in only as much flour as it needs and no more
>>> 4. when it has absorbed enough flour to be sticky but hold together, work
>>> the dough until is has smooth surface
>>> 5. roll into a ball, flatten the ball, wrap in plastic and put it in the
>>> fridge for about an hour to hydrate
>>
>> Where are the potatoes? I neve heard of gnocchi made with just flour.
>
> I said nothing about filling. I gave directions for making the pasta only.

Neither did Peter, the potatoes are to mix in with the flour, as another
source of starch, not as a filling.

--
Tim C.

Darryl L. Pierce

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May 3, 2004, 5:00:50 PM5/3/04
to
Tim Challenger <"timothy(dot)challenger(at)apk(dot)at"> wrote:

>>> Where are the potatoes? I neve heard of gnocchi made with just flour.
>>
>> I said nothing about filling. I gave directions for making the pasta
>> only.
>
> Neither did Peter, the potatoes are to mix in with the flour, as another
> source of starch, not as a filling.

Sorry, my bad. I confused tortellinis with gnocchis... :/

Tim Challenger

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May 4, 2004, 3:23:31 AM5/4/04
to
On Mon, 03 May 2004 21:00:50 GMT, Darryl L. Pierce wrote:

> Tim Challenger <"timothy(dot)challenger(at)apk(dot)at"> wrote:
>
>>>> Where are the potatoes? I neve heard of gnocchi made with just flour.
>>>
>>> I said nothing about filling. I gave directions for making the pasta
>>> only.
>>
>> Neither did Peter, the potatoes are to mix in with the flour, as another
>> source of starch, not as a filling.
>
> Sorry, my bad. I confused tortellinis with gnocchis... :/

Thought so. ;-)

--
Tim C.

Sophie

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May 7, 2004, 10:38:20 AM5/7/04
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On 01/05/04 08:56, "Benjamin Johnston" <supe...@benjaminjohnston.com.au>
écrivut:

I haven't seen your recipe, but first of all:

- drop the semolina (this is most important). Use only soft flour and eggs
with your mashed potato.

- the potatoes for gnocchi should be very mealy, not waxy. The original
recipe from Nice recommends "old and mealy potatoes". They should be
well-cooked in order to avoid lumps. Mealy potatoes make light gnocchi.

- mix the dough while the mashed potato is still hot. Waiting until it has
cooled down results in tough gnocchi.

- Don't handle the dough. Mix and knead with a fork or/and a wooden spatula.
Don't touch it with your hands except when shaping the "sausage" from which
you'll cut your gnocchi, and then knead as little as possible.

- After cutting the gnocchi, use the back of a fork to give them their
definitive shape.

I suspect the toughness of your gnocchi is mostly caused by the fact that
you use semolina.

You can try this recipe I learned while growing up in Nice (Nice is, like
Genova, one of the birthplaces of gnocchi). I've always made them that way
and they're not rubbery at all.

Gnocchi

2 pounds old and mealy potatoes
1/2 pound flour
1 egg
Salt, pepper
Grated parmesan or sbrinz cheese
Butter

Boil potatoes. Peel them.

Mash them through the finest grid of a "moulinette" (mouli-légume, a device
that "rices" potato without making a lump of it). Don't wait until it gets
cold and mix swiftly with a fork, adding flour and beaten egg. Switch from
fork to wooden spatula when necessary. When dough is smooth, let it rest for
1/2 hour.

Shape into balls the size of an egg and roll them into "sausages" with one
palm. Cut into 1-inch pieces.

You may press the middle of each gnocchi lightly with your thumb or roll
them on the board with the back of a fork to make the traditional gnocchi
"ridges".

Cook in boiling salted water. When the gnocchi rise to the surface, they're
cooked. Toss in butter, Parmesan cheese and freshly milled pepper. You may
also serve them in tomato sauce or the sauce from a daube de boeuf.


anna maria

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May 11, 2004, 6:26:13 AM5/11/04
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I just published my step-by-step illustrated recipe here:

http://www.annamariavolpi.com/page80.html

Ciao,

Anna Maria

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