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https://www.nytimes.com/2020/04/11/business/coronavirus-destroying-food.html
Dumped Milk, Smashed Eggs, Plowed Vegetables: Food Waste of the Pandemic
With restaurants, hotels and schools closed, many of the nation’s largest
farms are destroying millions of pounds of fresh goods that they can no
longer sell
By David Yaffe-Bellany and Michael Corkery
April 11, 2020, 10:13 a.m. ET
"In Wisconsin and Ohio, farmers are dumping thousands of gallons of fresh
milk into lagoons and manure pits. An Idaho farmer has dug huge ditches to
bury 1 million pounds of onions. And in South Florida, a region that
supplies much of the Eastern half of the United States with produce,
tractors are crisscrossing bean and cabbage fields, plowing perfectly ripe
vegetables back into the soil.
After weeks of concern about shortages in grocery stores and mad scrambles
to find the last box of pasta or toilet paper roll, many of the nation’s
largest farms are struggling with another ghastly effect of the pandemic.
They are being forced to destroy tens of millions of pounds of fresh food
that they can no longer sell.
The closing of restaurants, hotels and schools has left some farmers with no
buyers for more than half their crops. And even as retailers see spikes in
food sales to Americans who are now eating nearly every meal at home, the
increases are not enough to absorb all of the perishable food that was
planted weeks ago and intended for schools and businesses.
The amount of waste is staggering. The nation’s largest dairy cooperative,
Dairy Farmers of America, estimates that farmers are dumping as many as 3.7
million gallons of milk each day. A single chicken processor is smashing
750,000 unhatched eggs every week.
Many farmers say they have donated part of the surplus to food banks and
Meals on Wheels programs, which have been overwhelmed with demand. But there
is only so much perishable food that charities with limited numbers of
refrigerators and volunteers can absorb.
And the costs of harvesting, processing and then transporting produce and
milk to food banks or other areas of need would put further financial strain
on farms that have seen half their paying customers disappear. Exporting
much of the excess food is not feasible either, farmers say, because many
international customers are also struggling through the pandemic and recent
currency fluctuations make exports unprofitable.
“It’s heartbreaking,” said Paul Allen, co-owner of R.C. Hatton, who has had
to destroy millions of pounds of beans and cabbage at his farms in South
Florida and Georgia.
The widespread destruction of fresh food — at a time when many Americans are
hurting financially and millions are suddenly out of work — is an especially
dystopian turn of events, even by the standards of a global pandemic. It
reflects the profound economic uncertainty wrought by the virus and how
difficult it has been for huge sectors of the economy, like agriculture, to
adjust to such a sudden change in how they must operate.
Even as Mr. Allen and other farmers have been plowing fresh vegetables into
the soil, they have had to plant the same crop again, hoping the economy
will have restarted by the time the next batch of vegetables is ready to
harvest. But if the food service industry remains closed, then those crops,
too, may have to be destroyed.
Farmers are also learning in real time about the nation’s consumption
habits.
The quarantines have shown just how many more vegetables Americans eat when
meals are prepared for them in restaurants than when they have to cook for
themselves.
“People don’t make onion rings at home,” said Shay Myers, a third-generation
onion farmer whose fields straddle the border of Oregon and Idaho.
Mr. Myers said there were no good solutions to the fresh food glut. After
his largest customer — the restaurant industry — shut down in California and
New York, his farm started redistributing onions from 50-pound sacks into
smaller bags that could be sold in grocery stores. He also started freezing
some onions, but he has limited cold-storage capacity.
With few other options, Mr. Myers has begun burying tens of thousands of
pounds of onions and leaving them to decompose in trenches.
“There is no way to redistribute the quantities that we are talking about,”
he said.
Over the decades, the nation’s food banks have tried to shift from offering
mostly processed meals to serving fresh produce, as well. But the pandemic
has caused a shortage of volunteers, making it more difficult to serve
fruits and vegetables, which are time-consuming and expensive to transport.
“To purchase from a whole new set of farmers and suppliers — it takes time,
it takes knowledge, you have to find the people, develop the contracts,”
said Janet Poppendieck, an expert on poverty and food assistance.
The waste has become especially severe in the dairy industry, where cows
need to be milked multiple times a day, regardless of whether there are
buyers.
Major consumers of dairy, like public schools and coffee shops, have all but
vanished, leaving milk processing plants with fewer customers at a time of
year when cows produce milk at their fastest rate. About 5 percent of the
country’s milk supply is currently being dumped and that amount is expected
to double if the closings are extended over the next few months, according
to the International Dairy Foods Association.
Before the pandemic, the Dairymens processing plant in Cleveland would
produce three loads of milk, or around 13,500 gallons, for Starbucks every
day. Now the Starbucks order is down to one load every three days.
For a while after the pandemic took hold, the plant collected twice as much
milk from farmers as it could process, keeping the excess supply in
refrigerated trailers, said Brian Funk, who works for Dairymens as a liaison
to farmers.
But eventually the plant ran out of storage. One night last week, Mr. Funk
worked until 11 p.m., fighting back tears as he called farmers who supply
the plant to explain the predicament.
“We’re not going to pick your milk up tomorrow,” he told them. “We don’t
have any place to put it.”
One of the farms that got the call was the Hartschuh Dairy Farm, which has
nearly 200 cows on a plot of land in northern Ohio.
A week ago, Rose Hartschuh, who runs the farm with her family, watched her
father-in-law flush 31,000 pounds of milk into a lagoon. It took more than
an hour for the milk to flow out of its refrigerated tank and down the drain
pipe.
For years, dairy farmers have struggled with low prices and bankruptcies.
“This is one more blow below the belt,” Ms. Hartschuh said.
To prevent further dumping, farming groups are trying everything to find
places to send the excess milk — even lobbying pizza chains to increase the
amount of cheese on every slice.
But there are logistical obstacles that prevent dairy products from being
shifted neatly from food service customers to retailers.
At many dairy processors, for example, the machinery is designed to package
shredded cheese in large bags for restaurants or place milk in small cartons
for schools, rather than arrange the products in retail-friendly containers.
To repurpose those plants to put cheese in the 8 oz. bags that sell in
grocery stores or bottle milk in gallon jugs would require millions of
dollars in investment. For now, some processors have concluded that spending
the money isn’t worth it.
“It isn’t like restaurant demand has disappeared forever,” said Matt Gould,
a dairy industry analyst. “Even if it were possible to re-format to make it
an 8-ounce package rather than a 20-pound bag, the dollars and cents may not
pan out.”
Those same logistical challenges are bedeviling poultry plants that were set
up to distribute chicken to restaurants rather than stores. Each week, the
chicken processor Sanderson Farms destroys 750,000 unhatched eggs, or 5.5
percent of its total production, sending them to a rendering plant to be
turned into pet food.
Last week, the chief executive of Sanderson Farms, Joe Sanderson, told
analysts that company officials had even considered euthanizing chickens to
avoid selling them at unprofitable rates, though the company ultimately did
not take that step.
In recent days, Sanderson Farms has donated some of its chicken to food
banks and organizations that cook meals for emergency medical workers. But
hatching hundreds of thousands of eggs for the purpose of charity is not a
viable option, said Mike Cockrell, the company’s chief financial officer.
“We’re set up to sell that chicken,” Mr. Cockrell said. “That would be an
expensive proposition...”
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David Yaffe-Bellany reports on the food industry and general business news.
He graduated from Yale University and previously reported in Texas, Ohio and
Connecticut. @yaffebellany
Michael Corkery is a business reporter who covers the retail industry and
its impact on consumers, workers and the economy. He joined The Times in
2014 and was previously a reporter at the Wall Street Journal and the
Providence Journal. @mcorkery5
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The food banks here don't have enough food. You would think they could find
a way to get a least some of that food to the needy!