12' lead rope fails - is this with this snap?
Cheryl
piece of equipment and I use it daily with my yearling. Yesterday,
however, the snap failed. It has a strange looking (to me) snap which
you turn one section to open it. Yesterday, I had tied my yearling up
and the snap just came undone. Three times. Never had before. He
was not pulling back, he was moving around the post though. I was at
my trainer's at the time and she said she has seen this happen to
these kinds of snaps before. What's going on? Is this a design flaw
in the snap? Does anyone know where I can get a similar 12' lead with
a different type of snap? I really NEED this piece of equipment for
working my colt.
Cheryl
Jan Flora
ca...@caltel.com (Cheryl) wrote:
My neighbor, who is a packer (he runs a packstring in the back country
in Alaska) uses those sort of snaps on his leads. His horses are fine with
them (they don't set back) but my gelding has blown several apart.
You don't need a snap to work your colt. Learn how to tie a bowline and a
slip knot. You don't need hardware to hold a horse. A decent piece of rope
will do fine. (If you've got a broke horse, a piece of baler twine will do,
but we won't get into that discussion here.)
I'm not really sure what the problem is here. Are you freaked out because
the Parelli snap failed and you feel that you need *that* piece of equipment
to work your colt? Or are you freaked out because you don't know that you
can use a simple piece of rope to work your colt? Or are you freaked out
because your trainer hasn't taught you anything about horses, even though
you are paying him/her and you are working a colt, which people who are
new to horses don't have any business doing?
I can braid you a new 12' lead with one of those snaps for ~$3 for the rope
and whatever the snap costs, plus postage. What did you pay PP for it?
(Dare I ask?) It takes about 10 minutes to braid the snap in and back-
braid the cowboy end on it. (I buy snaps by the dozen on eBay for less
than $1 each, and buy rope in bulk from the local ship's chandlers.
I make all of the leads for our ranch and several neighbor ranches.
It's something to do, while watching West Wing on TV...)
Jan
Bill Kambic
Snaps are mechanical devices and all mechanical devices have finite life
spans!<g>
We don't buy "branded" lead ropes, just whatever the Co-Op or local tack
shop might have. We make our own if we need unusual lengths (you can buy
line from Tractor Supply, Home Depot, or marine supply houses). If you have
braiding skill, you can braid the snap onto the line. Since I don't have
that skill, I use monofillament fishing line to "whip" the snap end after I
thread the line through the loop at the end of the snap. I also do this
when snaps fail on commercial lead ropes. If you like you can finish the
job with waterproof electrical tape to give a neater apprearance.
An alternative to "whipping" is to use a "lead rope clip." These can be
bought at the Co-Op or Tractor Supply or some tack shops. I don't like them
as well as the "whipping" process, but they are quicker to use. You can
also buy replacement snaps at these sources (and also at Home Depot or
marine supply houses).
I really NEED this piece of equipment for
> working my colt.
Why? What does this specific piece of gear give you that a standard lead
rope does not?
Bill Kambic, Haras Lucero, Kingston, TN
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/1816
Mangalarga Marchador: Style, Stamina, Symmetry, & Smoothness
Tralrdr
>Bill Kambic" wka...@vic.com wrote:
> Since I don't have
>that skill, I use monofillament fishing line to "whip" the snap end after I
>thread the line through the loop at the end of the snap. <<
Hey! Tell me more about whipping it Bill! I can't braid back to save my life,
so am interested in this process. Are you just winding the fishing line around
and around and around or are you stitching in and out?
Also, to the original poster, you can loop a rope through the halter loop and
loop it back and through itself sort of self tying to make one of them knotless
doohickies. I have one that got set back on and ain't no way I am getting that
sucker undone! Damn! ON a good stretch of about 15' of climbing line! Which,
by the way, makes good lead material, and is very much like or possibly the
same damn thing these dudes (PP, CA all them rope wigglers) are using to wiggle
waggle their horses to and fro.
And I have the same question as Bill does...what does this piece of equipment
have over an ordinary lead rope of lesser value?
Enquiring minds wanna know.
Give us yer take on it, if you can, please, Cheryl! Carrie N Miller
Bill Kambic
<snipped for brevity>
> Hey! Tell me more about whipping it Bill! I can't braid back to save my
life,
> so am interested in this process. Are you just winding the fishing line
around
> and around and around or are you stitching in and out?
We use a carpet needle and take a couple of stitches to secure the end of
the rope to the body after threading through the loop. Then we wrap about
4" to 6" (IIRC), finishing by, again, taking a couple stitches through the
rope. Wrap it in water proof electrical tape and you a good to go!<g>
>
> Also, to the original poster, you can loop a rope through the halter loop
and
> loop it back and through itself sort of self tying to make one of them
knotless
> doohickies.
Another skill I have yet to master!<g>
I have one that got set back on and ain't no way I am getting that
> sucker undone! Damn! ON a good stretch of about 15' of climbing line!
Which,
> by the way, makes good lead material, and is very much like or possibly
the
> same damn thing these dudes (PP, CA all them rope wigglers) are using to
wiggle
> waggle their horses to and fro.
Good suggestion on the line!<g>
Cindi
I have a Parelli 12' lead also, and I do not tie with it as that snap
is not meant to hold in the event of the horse putting any sort of
weight on it. Parelli et al say that it's safer for a horse to get
loose than it is for him to be tied off fast. I do not agree, so I
don't use that rope to tie. I know yours came undone just from the
horse's movement, and all I can say is that probably the little ridge
inside where the twisty part is supposed to catch is wearing down.
Mine often doesn't stay closed as snugly as I'd like.
You should know that the particular snap on your lead is a pretty
recent addition to the Parelli lead. He used to just have a ring
and he'd use different snaps or no snaps. I've got pictures of him
using various snaps. As for this specific snap and whether or not it
has a design flaw, personally I think it's a piece of crap. But I
really like the rope, the way it feels and moves. I will probably
cut mine off and just tie a bowline when I want to use it or tie
a ring into the end so I can use another snap or just to run the
lead thru.
I ONLY tie using things that will not break, so I either use a
rope with a loop braided into the end and no snap at all, or I
use the rope and tie a bowline. I've had even monstrous (and
expensive) bullsnaps break, and working one of those contraptions
is harder than just tying a knot...
I'm quite sure Parelli et al would give you a new lead. Just
log onto www.parelli.com and send them an email and explain that
it keeps coming undone. They'll tell you to mail it to them in
Colorado and you'll get a new one. We got a new "savvy string"
because ours came unbraided; it was easy and they were great.
I'd certainly hope that with the price they charge, they'd have
great customer service, and they do seem to.
> I really NEED this piece of equipment for working my colt.
While I'm a moderate fan of the Parelli system, I would not want to
find myself EVER in the position of feeling like I can't work one
of my horses without a piece of his equipment. I'm unsure if you
are saying you really need a ROPE to work your colt or you really
need the Pat Parelli rope... There is a lot you can do without a
rope of any type, and nobody NEEDS a Pat Parelli rope to work a
colt.
good luck
cindi
http://www.allisonacres.com
Tralrdr
>and
>> loop it back and through itself sort of self tying to make one of them
>knotless
>> doohickies.
>
Bill sez:
>Another skill I have yet to master!<g>
Ok, heres a shot at a description:
make a loop in yer rope, run it into the halter loop, run the long ends of the
rope through the rope loop stuck through the halter loop, tighten, or tie a
renegade confirmed puller to this outfit and you will have what I have...a
tighter n hell snug sonbitch that won't come undone. Course I haven't drove
over it yit!
carrie n miller
Terry von Gease
news:3da82...@news.vic.com...
If you can count to three you can figure out how to braid back a stranded
rope. Your early efforts will most likely be a little funky looking, but,
like everything else, once you get the hang of it you can do it in your
sleep.
For braided rope the truly elegant method is to use a fid and pass the rope
back though itself a couple or three times.
--
Terry
You can accomplish more with a smile and a gun
than just a smile.
Cheryl
> rope does not?
>
popper on the end. The 12' length allows me to work my colt from a
distance, allowing him to move his feet when he needs to and is a
perfect length for ponying. It's quite disconcerting when the darn
snap opens unexpectedly. I have not seen any other leads like this
with a different snap. Since I have been using the 12' lead our
relationship has improved greatly. I am working with a trainer who
uses natural horsemanship methods which suits me and my colt.
Cheryl
Tralrdr
>If you can count to three you can figure out how to braid back a stranded
>rope. Your early efforts will most likely be a little funky looking, but,
>like everything else, once you get the hang of it you can do it in your
>sleep.<<
Damn that leaves me out.
carrie n miller
Cheryl
> > piece of equipment and I use it daily with my yearling. Yesterday,
> > however, the snap failed. It has a strange looking (to me) snap which
> > you turn one section to open it. Yesterday, I had tied my yearling up
> > and the snap just came undone. Three times. Never had before. He
> > was not pulling back, he was moving around the post though. I was at
> > my trainer's at the time and she said she has seen this happen to
> > these kinds of snaps before. What's going on? Is this a design flaw
> > in the snap? Does anyone know where I can get a similar 12' lead with
> > a different type of snap? I really NEED this piece of equipment for
> > working my colt.
> > Cheryl
Jan wrote:
>
> I'm not really sure what the problem is here. Are you freaked out because
> the Parelli snap failed and you feel that you need *that* piece of equipment
> to work your colt? Or are you freaked out because you don't know that you
> can use a simple piece of rope to work your colt? Or are you freaked out
> because your trainer hasn't taught you anything about horses, even though
> you are paying him/her and you are working a colt, which people who are
> new to horses don't have any business doing?
I am not new to horses - have owned horses and ridden for over 40
years. Am new to training a colt tho. I am working with a trainer
who uses natural horsemanship methods which suits me and my colt. I
am not freaked out but I do like this piece of equipment which has
been working well for me and my colt. I would like to get a
replacement that has a different type of snap.
Cheryl
>
Petra Ruettiger
Petra
Robinson
>
> Several months ago I bought a 12' lead from Parelli supply.... Yesterday,
> however, the snap failed.
Cindi down below suggests sending it back and asking for a replacement.
I'd just ask for my money back--a lead rope is a lead rope is a lead
rope....
Say, and can anyone explain to me how a "savvy string" is any different
from 6' of cotton clothesline with a loop tied in one end and a leather
popper made from a piece of latigo tied in the other?
Or for that matter why a "carrot stick" is better than a 4' showstick
($6.95 at Valley Vet) or a gimme yard stick?
> Does anyone know where I can get a similar 12' lead with
> a different type of snap? I really NEED this piece of equipment for
> working my colt.
No you don't. I've worked my filly for the past 2 weeks with nothing but
a garden variety bought from the feed store lead rope, my voice, and
body language. No one NEEDS any particular piece of equipment--all you
need is the ability to think at least as well as your horse, the
willingness to think and communicate on the horse's level, and some
experience in reading horses.
I think you need a broke horse, not a colt, and some more work with and
around horses.
Lorri
Belladonna
> Just replace the snap. Can't be THAT difficult ?
Actually it is if you want it to look like it did when you bought it. The
rope is Braid on Braid and you need a fid and a good sailor to fix it.
You'll then lose about 1 foot from the splice.
I just checked parelli.com and PP leads are $40 each. I would call PNH
and see if they'll replace the rope. Cindi is partially correct with the
statement that these snaps are something new for PP. The 22 foot lines
come with an O ring and now include a carabiner clip. 10 years ago when I
first saw PP, they didn't have that and I thought he had a 44 foot line
also made out of BOB. Now he sells a 45 lariat. The 12 ft lead had a
bullsnap on it that was huge. I'm sorry if I sound negative I just see
PP as the Microsoft of the horseworld. I attended one clinic of his back
in 1996 and he told us not to trust the false prophets and only go to PP
clinics and buy PP equipment. Parelli-ites scare me especially when they
start quoting Pat to me. Several weeks after that clinic, PNH sent word
from on high that it was ok to go to other clinics and he made something
of an apology. And yes, I can do the tasks he has listed for level 1. I
never looked any farther because my horse and I do have a good
partnership and I already have a religion.
There are other sources for the leads though including making them
yourself. I found a set of fids on Ebay for $23.
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=hrbent%40msn.com
Samson Rope and New England Rope both make splicing kits, instructions and
rope included.
http://www.samsonrope.com/home/recmarine/splicing/index.cfm
has pdf files of splices.
http://www.neropes.com/splice/main.htm has tutorials on how to splice
including a back splice and an eye splice (the two splices you need to
make the leads).
I have bought from http://www.silverdollarqh.com/halters.htm before
because they will make leads in any length you want with any snap you
want. I do like BOB rope leads but since I know how much it really costs
to make them, I'm not about to spend $40 to have Parelli's name stamped
onto the leather popper.
Valley Vet sells a training lead that is 13 feet long ( I guess trying to
get the Clinton Anderson crowd with their 14 foot lead and the Parelli
crowd with their 12 foot lead) for $20 in a choice of black, green, and
blue. Part # is 27313. These have the same snap as the Parelli/Anderson
lead but are not spliced.
Here is a what a search on google brought up:
http://www.horsefriendly.com/tackshop/leads.html sells the 12 foot leads
with an eye splice so you can replace the snap or go without it.
http://www.halterlady.com/leadropes.htm
http://www.extendinc.com/longridersgear/halters.htm
And if you want to start making your own halters, go to
http://www.goddijn.com/halter/
If you want to learn how to make the knots a little prettier, read
http://hosbooks.net/htssamplechapter.pdf or buy the book. It also has
info on making leadropes. You can purchase the rope at Home Depot - they
even sell BOB rope. Or go to ebay and you'll find odds and ends for sale
in various colors. I don't use rope halters for training but for everyday
halters so most of my leads are just 1/2 inch or 1 inch solid braid from
Home Depot tied on with no snaps. I have a halter and lead for about $3.
Carrot Sticks are Pig/Stock Sorting Poles that can be purchased in
assorted colors for about $8 from Nasco, Jeffers, and ValleyVet.
Progress Strings are Over Under Whips made out of softer rope. These also
use the same splices that are used for the leadrope.
I really would LOVE to see the books at PNH.
bdonna
Betsy
> For braided rope the truly elegant method is to use a fid and pass the rope
> back though itself a couple or three times.
>
>
Betsy
Cheryl
> loop it back and through itself sort of self tying to make one of them knotless
> doohickies.
The snap serves the purpose of adding weight. The type of rope gives
it life. For instance, if horse is coming on too strong while leading
you can pitch a wave to back him off. This has been a problem with my
colt of wanting to climb in my lap.
>
> And I have the same question as Bill does...what does this piece of equipment
> have over an ordinary lead rope of lesser value?
> Enquiring minds wanna know.
> Give us yer take on it, if you can, please, Cheryl! Carrie N Miller
The rope is used for much more than tying up. It's a training tool.
The rope is long enough to send the horse away from you and to allow
him to move his feet. Some horses don't do well if too confined - my
colt is one of these. The rope is long enough to send the horse in a
circle, send him through tight places (something we are working on
right now). It's also useful when ponying. When going up and down
hills, around rocks and trees, it gives the flexibility to feed out
the rope when you need to. Sometimes the colt has room to come
alongside my pony horse, sometimes he has to back off and follow. A
lunge line is much too long for this as I feel it would be easy to get
tangled up with all the excess line. The 12' lead has been a
lifesaver for working with this colt - for me. Leading at arms length
allowed him to be much too close and he tended to want to make things
"more interesting". One of the most valuable things the trainer has
taught me was to lead the colt from the end of the line - 12' away.
Really took some getting used to as I had always led with a horse
right up near me. She also taught me to never look back at the horse.
Just go. And, the funny thing is, when I lead him like this he comes
right along. It's like, if I look back at him, he feels the direction
is up to interpretation, and he'll just go his way. Hope I answered
your question.
Cheryl
Cheryl
> While I'm a moderate fan of the Parelli system, I would not want to
> find myself EVER in the position of feeling like I can't work one
> of my horses without a piece of his equipment. I'm unsure if you
> are saying you really need a ROPE to work your colt or you really
> need the Pat Parelli rope... There is a lot you can do without a
> rope of any type, and nobody NEEDS a Pat Parelli rope to work a
> colt.
>
> good luck
> cindi
> http://www.allisonacres.com
Cindi: Of course I don't need a Parelli rope, specifically. I just
want all the features it has (except for this snap). Actually I don't
use it for tying up a lot, but when I take my colt to the trainer
about once a week, it was just handy to tie with the rope. Since you
have experience with this rope and confirm that the snaps are not
particular strong, I will be bringing another rope along to tie up
with. Read some of my other responses to peoples' questions for why I
like the rope.
Cheryl
> > Does anyone know where I can get a similar 12' lead with
> > a different type of snap? I really NEED this piece of equipment for
> > working my colt.
Robinson <gash...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:<3DA88E84...@bellsouth.net>...
> No you don't. I've worked my filly for the past 2 weeks with nothing but
> a garden variety bought from the feed store lead rope, my voice, and
> body language. No one NEEDS any particular piece of equipment--all you
> need is the ability to think at least as well as your horse, the
> willingness to think and communicate on the horse's level, and some
> experience in reading horses.
I guess what I should have said is I WANT one. Because it has been
very valuable and successful in what I am doing with my colt right
now.
>
> I think you need a broke horse, not a colt, and some more work with and
> around horses.
>
> Lorri
Well, I've got two broke horses. And many, many more in my past
horselife of 40 years. I may have worked more around horses than you,
you shouldn't make judgments (your last statement stung a bit). This
is one particular colt, who is actually a very nice, gentle colt.
When working with horses for any length of time (years) you soon learn
that what works for one may not work for another. If THIS piece of
equipment works well with THIS colt, it's what I want to continue to
use. As I've said before this lead is new to me and it works - for me
in this case. And, although, admittedly, I have not trained a lot of
colts, I have finished out some started horses very successfully.
Here's a question for you: at what point in a person's years of
experience is it time to move ahead and tackle a new challenge? Like
starting a colt?
Cheryl
>
Madeline Rockwell
"Cheryl" <ca...@caltel.com> wrote in message
news:decd7900.02101...@posting.google.com...
> Cheryl wrote:
>
> Well, I've got two broke horses. And many, many more in my past
> horselife of 40 years. I may have worked more around horses than you,
> you shouldn't make judgments (your last statement stung a bit). This
> is one particular colt, who is actually a very nice, gentle colt.
> When working with horses for any length of time (years) you soon learn
> that what works for one may not work for another. If THIS piece of
> equipment works well with THIS colt, it's what I want to continue to
> use. As I've said before this lead is new to me and it works - for me
> in this case. And, although, admittedly, I have not trained a lot of
> colts, I have finished out some started horses very successfully.
> Here's a question for you: at what point in a person's years of
> experience is it time to move ahead and tackle a new challenge? Like
> starting a colt?
Right after you understand that it's what's in your brain that matters, not
what exact brand of rope you're using.
madeline
Bill Kambic
<snipped for brevity
> If you can count to three you can figure out how to braid back a stranded
> rope.
Yeah, but...all the way to THREE?!?!?!?!?!<g>
Your early efforts will most likely be a little funky looking, but,
> like everything else, once you get the hang of it you can do it in your
> sleep.
I may let my wife take a crack at this. She is very "artsy craftsy" and
just has a "feel" for how things should be done.
>
> For braided rope the truly elegant method is to use a fid and pass the
rope
> back though itself a couple or three times.
A friend of mine (also retired USNR) was able to obtain a copy of the
Boatswan's Mate Seaman and Third Class correspondance course manual off the
web. He suggested I do the same to fill in some of the gaps in my
education. Ah, yes, leaning the skills of the "deck ape"!!!<g>
Petra Ruettiger
equipment, but then my yearlings spent their life being in a big field 24-7
with other babies learning to be normal horses, they ate, they played, they
ate, they slept, they went for a walk, they ate some more etc.
The only things I needed my yearlings to do was tie, lead, pick up feet, be
polite, and go where I asked when I asked (ie in a trailer, down the lane,
around a showring ) . I never lunged them (I doubt it does their legs good) and
I certainly never ponied a yearling.
They grew up into very nice horses with manners to burn .
Is it maybe possible that you are getting a tiny little bit carried away in
what you do with your first (?) baby and what he really needs is to have a
childhood with his friends and not a lot of "training" ? Mine were handled
every day ( feeding, picking out feet - some days being led out for a quick
walk but no more than once every two weeks or so ) but not to the extreme you
are describing.
I am not criticising - just adding a different perspective.
I personally like young horses to have as much land to run on and as many
playmates as possible, plus an older horse to teach them not to be cocky. Then
all they need to know at this stage is lead, tie and behave.
Petra
CMNewell
wrote:
>A friend of mine (also retired USNR) was able to obtain a copy of the
>Boatswan's Mate Seaman and Third Class correspondance course manual off the
>web. He suggested I do the same to fill in some of the gaps in my
>education. Ah, yes, leaning the skills of the "deck ape"!!!<g>
>
I have a venerable copy of the "Sea Scout's Manaual" which I dug
out of Grandpa's cellar as a kid. It's got a lot of useful stuff re:
marlinspike seamanship.
(I also have my old knotboard, and I whipped *all* the ends on each
knot.)
CMNewell, DVM
The Chuck of Eq
self-proclaimed vet
Surgeon General of the Bogbash Party
"You can be perverse, a horse cannot." --TvG
R&SB
"Jan Flora" <snow...@xyz.net> wrote in message
news:snowshoe-121...@223-pm6.hom.alaska.net...
I agree with Jan. I've made more than a few lead ropes. I happen to prefer
a longer lead rope and, if you have two one inch rings, you can slip them on
the rope and have a lead rope that you can just snap around a horse's neck.
To do it, take the two rings, slip them on the rope, then run the rope back
through
the first ring. That locks the second ring in place and, to move it, all
you have
to do is loosen the rope and move the rings up or down.
Sue
>
> Jan
Tralrdr
>>>Is it maybe possible that you are getting a tiny little bit carried away in
>what you do with your first (?) baby and what he really needs is to have a
>childhood with his friends and not a lot of "training"
<<
more snipped stuff .....
Ya know, if this gal wants and feels she needs this particular piece of
equipment, leave her alone! Ferchristssake, everyone has a preferred peice of
equipment, she has explained why she feels she wants and needs it so whats the
big freakin deal? I have a few pieces of equipment I wouldn't be without...a
snaffle bit, long split reins, 1"thick felt pad. Maybe more. Show sheen.
So what? There is more than one way to break a hoss and if Cheryl wants to do
it THIS way then so what? I like a long lead rope, too. I would love a tied
intoitself doohicky, but don't have one. She is doing what she feels she needs
to and its her educational curve not mine or yours.
sheesh!
carrie n miller
Petra Ruettiger
>
>Ya know, if this gal wants and feels she needs this particular piece of
>equipment, leave her alone!
Shrug - sure !!
I was just wondering whether this yearling really wants all that work and
weekly trips to trainer etc.
I didn't say she can't have the flipping rope if she wants it - not even
indicated she is doing it wrong - I personally just think yearlings are babies
and don't NEED all that ...
>There is more than one way to break a hoss
I KNOW ... but this is a yearling !
>ot mine or yours.
>sheesh!
Oh come on ! This IS a discussion forum so why do you get quite so upset when
someone raises a point which is pertinent to that discussion ?
Petra
Tralrdr
>someone raises a point which is pertinent to that discussion ?
>
>Petra
Right. I'm not upset. It seems there have been several rather "pointed"
comments and inquiries into wether or no this gal "needs" this particular piece
of equipment.
Its been pointed out that she don't need it, but she explained she feels she
does.
Um K?
>I was just wondering whether this yearling really wants all that work and
>weekly trips to trainer etc. <<
It probly doesn't. But thats the handlers call.
snip
> - I personally just think yearlings are babies
>and don't NEED all that ...
>
me too but thats her horse and she has made that decision on her own.
I actually just felt the need to point out that this person thought she needed
the equipment and only asked how to fix it.
She volunteered information otherwise as to her training techniques and
obviously opened herself up for "discussion" which is what this forum is about,
sure.
go for it. I'll read and comment as I feel, just as anyone else is free to do.
Carrie n miller
Betsy
Thanks, Tim!
>
Robinson
>
> Robinson <gash...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:<3DA88E84...@bellsouth.net>...
> >
> > around horses.
> >
> > Lorri
>
> Well, I've got two broke horses. And many, many more in my past
> Here's a question for you: at what point in a person's years of
> experience is it time to move ahead and tackle a new challenge? Like
> starting a colt?
For some people, never. It's not something you "graduate to" after XX
years' experience. You know when it's time when you can confidently and
consistently get your broke horse to communicate with you and vice
versa, and you have success in teaching new things to your broke horses.
Practice on the ones that are already done. You don't practice on the
babies. Human teachers intern for 6 months with experienced teachers,
learning how it's done--let your broke horses be your teachers before
you start in on a youngster.
Incidentally, even tho I have nigh on 30 yrs experience myself, I'm
still learning every day, and would never say "I have enough years'
experience now to go do xxx". It just doesn't work that way.
Lorri
Robinson
[re: years don't guarantee the ability to train a colt properly]
>
> (your last statement stung a bit).
Then maybe it forced you into a re-evaluation of your abilities in
starting a colt. Honesty is required in dealing with horses, especially
if you're working with youngsters.
You can't help him if you aren't brutally, totally, completely honest
about yourself.
Lorri
Catja Pafort
> The snap serves the purpose of adding weight. The type of rope gives
> it life. For instance, if horse is coming on too strong while leading
> you can pitch a wave to back him off. This has been a problem with my
> colt of wanting to climb in my lap.
I'm doing the same thing with my lightweight cotton lunge rope (Shires)
which has an equally lightweight snap. It's the technique, not the
equipment. Having said that, I'd prefer lunge ropes to flat lunge reins,
especially ones made of nylon, any day. One thing a rope will do for
you: no more twisting. Ever.
Catja
and the Count
Lou W
Instructions on splicing 3 strand, double braid ( yacht rope). Eye
Splices and back splices
Robinson
>
http://www.allropes.com/index.php?TabID=3&PageID=6
>
> Instructions on splicing 3 strand, double braid ( yacht rope). Eye
> Splices and back splices
Corrected URL above.
Lorri
Belladonna
Um...Cheryl has 40 years of experience. She wanted to try something she
had never done before. She's got a colt who wants to be in your pocket
all the time. IMO, these types are *much* harder to train than ones who
have had less human exposure because they don't have good manners around
people, and many times, around other horses. We've got 2 at the farm
right now. One has lived with cows since he was weaned and is 4 now.
He's recently discovered that he's more powerful than humans and has
started attacking people. TO make matters worse, his owner is 6 years
old. Her parents bought him for her so they could grow up together. The
other is a 2 year old filly who is absolutely precious but just doesn't
understand that she has to respect people (although she respects other
horse's space) and you can take her into the round pen and try to work her
and all she does is close her eyes when you crack the whip. None of us
have had the heart to break the news to her but she's getting bigger and
we're going to have to soon. She just has no clue that she isn't a lap
dog. Her owners are 2 teenage girls who either spend all day with her
grooming and feeding her treats or are absent for 4 to 8 weeks at a time.
Cheryl not only has been honest with herself but has gone out and found a
trainer she is comfortable with to assist her. It is a very humbling
experience after you've been around horses for the majority of your life
to then to get one in your life that you're not sure how to deal with.
It takes a respectable and honest person to go get help. How many of us
know of people who are too ashamed to go get help and just let their
horses turn into pasture ornaments?
Most of us don't like PNH for a variety of reasons. Mine mainly are
because of the type of people who tend to flock to it. Mainy sheeple who
just don't seem to want to think for themselves. Anyone remember Pat
Smith or Doris Woods? As a whole, I actually have no problems with the
program and have watched from a distance as the program evolved the past
10 years. I like that Pat is constantly modifying it to make it safer and
easier on horse and human. BUT, what I don't like is the people who get
into it halfassed and fancy themselves as some horse whisperer, don't
understand what they're doing and then get themselves or someone else
hurt, then blame the training methods. Or the other people who quote Pat
every chance they get and although they can do the dance steps, never
seem to understand the concepts behind horse training. Pat is slowly
moving away from the cookie cutter method for all horses and stresses
more and more that each horse is different and even will suggest selling
the horse and getting one that fits your personality and/or experience
better since he tends to be geared towards the novice. IMO, PNH should
be a stepping stone and eventually you'll leave and develop your own
technique.
Cheryl look back at my post on where to get the leadropes. I
can recommend www.silverdollarqh.com without any reservations. Do call
PNH and see if they'll replace the rope. They are quite proud of their
equipment and a friend of mine had his 2 or 3 year old progress string
replaced for free when it started to unravel at the eye spice.
Best of luck.
bdonna
Robinson
>
> Robinson <gash...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> > Cheryl wrote:
>
> > [re: years don't guarantee the ability to train a colt properly]
>
> >>
> >> (your last statement stung a bit).
>
> > Then maybe it forced you into a re-evaluation of your abilities in
> > starting a colt.
>
> had never done before. She's got a colt who wants to be in your pocket
> all the time.
None of which counts toward being ABLE to train a young horse from the
ground up. Which was my point. Some people (NOT saying Cheryl is one,
but she must make an honest evaluation of her own ability--no one else
can do it for her) are NEVER capable of starting a young horse,
regardless of how long they've worked with horses.
It's just a fact, a hard one, but a true one. And in the end, it's the
horse that gets the blame when they get ruined by improper starting.
Lorri
Petra Ruettiger
>None of which counts toward being ABLE to train a young horse from the
>ground up.
Frankly I think most horses can be brought up by people with horse-sense and
the correct guidance . It's not brain surgery ! Those are not sable toothed
tgers, they're just horses.
usually it is TOO MUCH fiddling and WRONG handling that's the problem, but
youngsters are not that difficult if handled moderately yet correctly . Once it
comes to actually backing and training under saddle ... Now THAT is a different
ballgame, but bringing up a youngster really is nowhere near as big a deal as
some people like to make out.
Petra
Kathy S.
them and getting a replacement.
Kathy