Signing

[Carson]

What is a good way to sign and date a bowl, something that is easy and
neat.

[Richard Preston]

Hi Brent,
If it's a high-end piece, I prefer to use a wood burner. If the wood is dark or
lesser-value, I tend to use and engraver. I have one client who insists on
contrastion color for signature so he can be sure everyone notices it.

When those are not appropriate, I use a tip I got from Betty Scarpino - a
UniBall pen. It's like a ball point. I tested it on heart pine from 1750. I
wrote on it and within 3 minutes, I went over it with lacquer thinner - no
damage. I put mineral oil on the wood and 3 hours later, I wrote over that. I
put on Briwax - no damage there either.

I found that trying to burn the heart pine was just a nightmare. The rings burn
at a different rate, so one is lite and the other invisible, or one is visible
and the other is scorched.

.>

> What is a good way to sign and date a bowl, something that is easy and
>neat.

WoodTurners Anonymous of Richmond, Va, an AAW Chapter

[terry hemmings]

This has been the subject of previous postings to this group.
I usually engrave the base of items, using a pyro pen, with the type of
wood, initials (could be full name if you wish) and year.
If I don't consider the item to be of exhibition standard I omit the
initials.
Hope this is of use.
Terry Hemmings
"Carson" <carson...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:#mWY0W49$GA.307@cpmsnbbsa07...

[Andy Huytera]

The method I have found works well is to be sure the area has a finish
on it. If not a wash coat of shellac on the area to be signed does the
job. I use a pen nib and india ink both available from artist supply
stores. A light coat of krylon flat over that protects it although once
dry, the ink is rather permanent.

Andy Hutyera

[python]

In article <3987270C...@eohio.net>, Andy says...

I use a Bic Metal Point followed by a wash of medium CA glue, seals it right in.

Check out my new work 7/00. All comments and inquiries welcome. Thanks

www.maine-web.com/woodturning