R.I.P.
robo hippy
$29.95 close quater drill died. The shaft coming out of the body had
gotten loose. I was sanding in both clock and counter clock wise. I
don't know how many bowls I got sanded with it, but a couple hundred
anyway, and 80 plus hours of time on it.
Did I get my money worth out of it? Yes!
Is it as good as the Milwaukee and Sioux? No!
Would I buy it again if it was half the price of the S/M drills?
Possibly.
Will I buy it again? Yes. I can't burn up just one and consider the
test conclusive.
At about 1/5th the price of the S/M drills, I think that it is a good
buy and a bargain, especially if you are more recreational with your
turning. Even with production work, I still think it is a good buy.
robo hippy
Bill Rubenstein
up a manufacturer's reconditioned Milwaukee for $53.00 delivered. It
was from a web site (www.ubid.com) which had a lot of about 30 of them.
My old one still sands fine except that it is the older style with the
reversing switch on the back (instead of the top for the newer ones).
The switch has been testy for a while and now will not switch directions
at all. I'll take it apart and see what is going on but now there is no
hurry.
Bill
mac davis
I got mine about the same time that you did... It's done a great job on a lot of
bowls, using 2" and 3" sanding disks and never complaining...
For less than $30 including shipping, I'll buy one (or 2) again and probably
will...
IMO, it's better than buying the brand name and worrying about burning IT up..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Leo Lichtman
inside. Friends of mine have paid more for repairing them than the total
cost of your "economy-priced" drill.
Chuck
wrote:
>Is it as good as the Milwaukee and Sioux? No!
If it spins a piece of sandpaper at the proper angle and speed, how
can it _not_ be "as good" as the aformentioned?
When I started turning, just over 4 years ago, I had a Master Mechanic
drill, which probably cost about $29.95 over 10 years ago, when it was
bought. I have used it for the time I have been turning and am still
using it, although occasionally I get a hunk of motor brush (?)
smacking into my hand from time to time. I'll use it until it quits,
then probably replace the brushes for a couple of bucks and use it for
a few more years.
--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
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Kevin Miller
> Tonight, with the screech of fried bearings, and a puff of smoke, my
>
R.I.P. - That would be Rest In Pieces? <g>
...Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357
George
"Leo Lichtman" <l.lic...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:nHkkf.216539$zb5....@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> The expensive drills also fail, mostly due to accumulation of sawdust
> inside. Friends of mine have paid more for repairing them than the total
> cost of your "economy-priced" drill.
>
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=116-753
The old Maytag motor is safe at a distance, and the "drill" weighs next to
nothing.
Barry N. Turner
with no complaints. Actually, it works pretty well. On the high range top
speed is 1500 rpm, which is plenty fast for sanding. I had the battery
rebuilt at a Batteries Plus for half the cost of a new one. Does anyone
else use a conventional drill for sanding?
Barry
"Leo Lichtman" <l.lic...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:nHkkf.216539$zb5....@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Gerald Ross
sandpaper grit getting into it so got a B&D VSR tailed drill and it
works fine. I have an outlet just over the tailstock which makes it
convenient. Never felt the need for an angled drill.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
Got kleptomania?? Take something for it!
Chuck
<barr...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Does anyone
>else use a conventional drill for sanding?
My 10+ y.o. Master Mechanic drill I use, which I mentioned in the
previous thread, is conventional.
Works like a charm.
--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
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September 11, 2001 - Never Forget
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Ken Moon
"robo hippy" <reed...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1133596514....@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Tonight, with the screech of fried bearings, and a puff of smoke, my
> $29.95 close quater drill died. The shaft coming out of the body had
> gotten loose. I was sanding in both clock and counter clock wise. I
> don't know how many bowls I got sanded with it, but a couple hundred
> anyway, and 80 plus hours of time on it.
==============================
Sounds like you may have just fried the bearings. If there's no damage to
the drill body or signs of roasted windings, I'd get some replacement
bearings and probably run it as long as you did before. Of course, if
there's visible damage to the areas other than the bearings, well, so long
import!
Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.
robo hippy
drills, I would say that under the same work loads, the Sioux/Milwaukee
drill will last about 3 times longer that the cheap model. This is
still a test in progress.
robo hippy
Chuck
wrote:
>How can it not be as good as? Easy, given my experience with both
Actually, my question was in regards to the _functionality_ of the
cheap vs. expensive drill, rather than the life span, which is what I
thought your rhetorical question was also in reference to.
mac davis
wrote:
>The expensive drills also fail, mostly due to accumulation of sawdust
>inside. Friends of mine have paid more for repairing them than the total
>cost of your "economy-priced" drill.
>
That's exactly why I ordered one, Leo..
I know myself well enough to guarantee that I won't blow the drill out with air,
regrease or replace bearings...
so "disposable" is the way to go for me..
mac davis
wrote:
>I'm using a conventional 9.6 volt Panasonic cordless drill for power sanding
>with no complaints. Actually, it works pretty well. On the high range top
>speed is 1500 rpm, which is plenty fast for sanding. I had the battery
>rebuilt at a Batteries Plus for half the cost of a new one. Does anyone
>else use a conventional drill for sanding?
>
>Barry
>
I still use my Craftsman corded 3/8 VSR drill for a lot of sanding... especially
on the deeper, narrow stuff...
The close quarter drill is great when it's shallow or wide enough to fit inside,
but sometimes the extra "reach" of a conventional drill is easier than
extensions or added pads (I also use them) on an angle drill..
mac davis
George... I have what looks like the same cable... don't remember the brand, but
same size, price, etc...
I'm really unhappy with the chuck being connected with a drill-driver type snap
on and am considering gluing or set screwing the chuck on the shaft...
Have you had any problems with the chuck wobbling or coming of?
mac davis
That was my thought when I bought my "cheapy"... it's 1/4 of the price, so if it
lasts 1/3 as long as the Sioux, I'm ahead of the game..
George
"mac davis" <mac....@splinters.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:aiv8p1lctu9pnqn3m...@4ax.com...
>>
> George... I have what looks like the same cable... don't remember the
> brand, but
> same size, price, etc...
> I'm really unhappy with the chuck being connected with a drill-driver type
> snap
> on and am considering gluing or set screwing the chuck on the shaft...
>
> Have you had any problems with the chuck wobbling or coming of?
>
fifth in twenty years. Only thing you have to be careful of is jamming the
entire thing so that the flexible wire unwinds. You can do that by
mistaking a 60 for 80 grit and sanding with a 3" disk freehand. Just about
broke my wrist, too. Anyone need four old 60 grit 3" disks from my sampler
set?
When using coarser than 120, make sure you keep a light touch. I like to
rest it on a toolrest and use it as a rotary gouge. When used with
power-lock hard disks, it doesn't dive into soft areas in spalted stock,
which is a real plus.
mac davis
>
>"mac davis" <mac....@splinters.comcast.net> wrote in message
>news:aiv8p1lctu9pnqn3m...@4ax.com...
>>>
>> George... I have what looks like the same cable... don't remember the
>> brand, but
>> same size, price, etc...
>> I'm really unhappy with the chuck being connected with a drill-driver type
>> snap
>> on and am considering gluing or set screwing the chuck on the shaft...
>>
>> Have you had any problems with the chuck wobbling or coming of?
>>
> It's screwed on, same as any other chuck. No problem. I'm on my fourth or
>fifth in twenty years. Only thing you have to be careful of is jamming the
>entire thing so that the flexible wire unwinds. You can do that by
>mistaking a 60 for 80 grit and sanding with a 3" disk freehand. Just about
>broke my wrist, too. Anyone need four old 60 grit 3" disks from my sampler
>set?
hmm.. different brand, then... the chuck on mine snaps on to the cable with a
driver-bit type hex and wobbles..
It's my second cable.. first one jammed and kinked the first time it was used
and had to be exchanged... not having a lot of luck with flex cables.. *g*
>
>When using coarser than 120, make sure you keep a light touch. I like to
>rest it on a toolrest and use it as a rotary gouge. When used with
>power-lock hard disks, it doesn't dive into soft areas in spalted stock,
>which is a real plus.
>
mac
Mike Paulson
>R.I.P. - That would be Rest In Pieces? <g>
It's regional. Up there in Juneau where you live I hear it means
"Rusted In Place"
-mike
Kevin Miller
time I think we might the snow turns to rain. Freezes at night, slicker
than all get out, turns to slush in the day. Ah well. Good excuse to
stay indoors and turn...