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TEFC v ODP motor help?

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Shawn

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Apr 21, 2003, 7:19:18 AM4/21/03
to
Recognizing TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled) motors are the most
desirable. Is there any real worry with using an ODP (open
drip-proof) motor for a wood lathe. It will be enclosed in a wood
housing beneath the lathe with vents for air flow - I've thought about
making the vents with vacuum cleaner filters to help keep out wood
dust and dirt. Asking because there are some good deals (I think) on
strong ODP motors; e.g.:
$109 for 1 HP 115/230 VAC 1725 RPM ELECTRIC MOTOR
• New BALDOR. Industrial motor with ball bearings. Manual overload
protection.
SPECIFICATIONS
• HP 1
• Voltage 115/230 AC
• Amps 12.4/6.2
• RPM 1725
• Rotation reversible
• Phase 1
• Service factor 1.0
• Enclosure ODP
• Duty continuous

Should I stick only to TEFC in my shopping?

George

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Apr 21, 2003, 9:21:10 AM4/21/03
to
A lot of them in use on older equipment. Practice used to be to locate the
motor out of the way, so it really wasn't a problem.


"Shawn" <sbea...@jbpierce.org> wrote in message
news:36a8f470.03042...@posting.google.com...

Ken Moon

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Apr 21, 2003, 1:32:13 PM4/21/03
to
Shawn,
My dad used open housing type motors on all his wood working power
tools for years in his cabinet shop. When the dust got thick enough to
be noticable, he would blow it out with an compressed air. I wouldn't
hesitate to use one under the conditions you describe. I would suggest
that, instead of vacuum cleaner filters, you use pleated paper central
air conditioner filters for your enclosed box. Alternately, you could
use a pleated air cleaner filer from an automotive store, one of the
small rectangular ones like my F-150's should probably work fine. A
small one will give you all the clean air you can use for the motor.
They can be duct taped in place, or attach a fixture so you can easily
remove the filter to blow it out on a regular schedule (weekly,
monthly, quarterly, as you find necessary) to keep the filter air flow
free. A small fan on the side of the box opposite the filter would
insure motor cooling. You should figure on blowing dust out of the
motor at filter change time, just to be on the safe side.
Good luck,

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX
************************************************


"George" <someon...@microsoft.com> wrote in message news:<afSoa.1689$zN4.2...@kent.svc.tds.net>...

Mike Vore

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Apr 21, 2003, 1:25:50 PM4/21/03
to
I'd first think about using 'Furnace Filter' for keeping out the major
chips - my thought is that vacuum bags would block too much air flow
unless there was a fan pulling air directly through it.

mike

On 21 Apr 2003 04:19:18 -0700, Shawn <sbea...@jbpierce.org> wrote:

> Recognizing TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled) motors are the most
> desirable. Is there any real worry with using an ODP (open
> drip-proof) motor for a wood lathe. It will be enclosed in a wood
> housing beneath the lathe with vents for air flow - I've thought
> about making the vents with vacuum cleaner filters to help keep out
> wood dust and dirt. Asking because there are some good deals (I
> think) on strong ODP motors; e.g.:

--
Michael Vore, W3CCV M-ASA [Ka8 (MU)] WHIRL (Burley LIMBO)
http://mike.vorefamily.net/ohmywoodness <-Custom Woodworking
http://mike.vorefamily.net/thewoodenradio <-The weblog

william_b_noble

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Apr 21, 2003, 11:30:56 PM4/21/03
to
I used a open washing machine motor on my Nova Comet - no problems, and I
use an open motor on my table saw - both are old motors, probably from the
40s or earlier. If they seem dusty I blow the dust out. I would recommend
no filters, they will block the air flow - a box over the motor, as you
describe will keep a lot of the junk out of the motor. You are much more
likely, in my opinion (not verified by testing, mind you) to damage the
motor with heat than with dust. This whole TEFC thing has gotten a bit out
of hand - yes, my Stubby lathe has a TEFC motor, but I don't see why one
looking to save a few $$ would have to insist on it unless in an explosive
atmosphere. If you are operating a grain elevator, then please use TEFC.
Same for if you are grinding charchoal for gunpowder, or ......
"Mike Vore" <mv...@ix.netcom.cam> wrote in message
news:slrnba8acu...@snowmass.mystic.ct...

John

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Apr 22, 2003, 9:49:02 AM4/22/03
to
I'm now in a similar situation, but not with a motor that'll see
'continuous' operation like a lathe motor. I decided to shelf mount my
vacuum pump below the headstock -- on a lower bottom shelf. Since the
pump has an ODP motor, and I know it'll see shavings and dust, I'm
looking for simple ideas to cover it while it's not being used - even
something as simple as a pillow case.....what are others using, if
anything?

John

sbea...@jbpierce.org (Shawn) wrote in message news:<36a8f470.03042...@posting.google.com>...


> Recognizing TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled) motors are the most
> desirable. Is there any real worry with using an ODP (open
> drip-proof) motor for a wood lathe. It will be enclosed in a wood
> housing beneath the lathe with vents for air flow - I've thought about
> making the vents with vacuum cleaner filters to help keep out wood
> dust and dirt. Asking because there are some good deals (I think) on
> strong ODP motors; e.g.:
> $109 for 1 HP 115/230 VAC 1725 RPM ELECTRIC MOTOR

> ? New BALDOR. Industrial motor with ball bearings. Manual overload
> protection.
> SPECIFICATIONS
> ? HP 1
> ? Voltage 115/230 AC
> ? Amps 12.4/6.2
> ? RPM 1725
> ? Rotation reversible
> ? Phase 1
> ? Service factor 1.0
> ? Enclosure ODP
> ? Duty continuous

George

unread,
Apr 22, 2003, 10:58:15 AM4/22/03
to
Nothing.

Fifteen years with an open, drip-proof motor powering the lathe. Gravity
carries the shavings below, and the dust seems to fly out and about every
time I start it up. In my semi-annual tune-up party it gets cleaned, oiled
and adjusted.


"John" <jut...@craworld.com> wrote in message
news:6d46c7ef.03042...@posting.google.com...

Dan Bollinger

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Apr 22, 2003, 1:18:20 PM4/22/03
to
There is nothing wrong with an ODP motor on a lathe application. I opted for
a TEFC on my new lathe for two unrelated reasons. First, I got a new motor
on eBay for less than a new ODP at Graingers. Second, because TEFC's by
design run smoother with less vibration. Dan

"Shawn" <sbea...@jbpierce.org> wrote in message
news:36a8f470.03042...@posting.google.com...

> Recognizing TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled) motors are the most
> desirable. Is there any real worry with using an ODP (open
> drip-proof) motor for a wood lathe. It will be enclosed in a wood
> housing beneath the lathe with vents for air flow - I've thought about
> making the vents with vacuum cleaner filters to help keep out wood
> dust and dirt. Asking because there are some good deals (I think) on
> strong ODP motors; e.g.:
> $109 for 1 HP 115/230 VAC 1725 RPM ELECTRIC MOTOR

> . New BALDOR. Industrial motor with ball bearings. Manual overload
> protection.
> SPECIFICATIONS
> . HP 1
> . Voltage 115/230 AC
> . Amps 12.4/6.2
> . RPM 1725
> . Rotation reversible
> . Phase 1
> . Service factor 1.0
> . Enclosure ODP
> . Duty continuous

william_b_noble

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Apr 23, 2003, 1:13:35 AM4/23/03
to
why not do what I do - take the exhaust from the vacuum pump and direct it
into the open part of the pump so it blows the dust right back out. I think
I put a diagram of this in my article on vac chucking - it will also keep
everything running cooler. Also, suggest you put the pump up in the rafters
where it is out of your way (or to make a bad pun, away from your ways)

"George" <someon...@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:bMcpa.1892$zN4.2...@kent.svc.tds.net...

ri...@rickfrazier.com

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Apr 24, 2003, 10:53:58 PM4/24/03
to
Shawn:

I've been using ODP motors on equipment for quite some time. When I built
my big wood lathe, I used a 3HP 3phase ODP Leeson because the price was
considerably less than a TEFC, and I can force cool the ODP easier if I
ever have problems with it heating at slow speeds. The TEFC would
probably be OK to force cool also, but for the money, I'll continue to use
ODP motors on all of my equipment.

When I'm turning something that is really messy, I'll take the air hose
and blow out the motor every few months or so, but so far, I haven't
actually got much out of it during the cleaning process. The motor is
physically about 18 inches below the spindle, and out of the way of most
of the big stuff, but still gets the sanding dust, which (of course) gets
all over the shop. I wouldn't go to using vacuum cleaner filters
because it might impede the airflow, but if you are really worried about
getting stuff into the motor, you might put a couple of furnace filters
around the motor.

So far, even when turning 24" diameter logs, the 3HP motor hasn't got more
than barely warm, so I guess I've over-engineered it for the application,
but I do like being able to turn at very low speeds and still have a
decent amount of torque.

If I were putting a motor on my smaller lathe, (a ten inch delta) I'd be
looking for a 1HP 3phase motor and VFD controller. The VFD hooks up to
your single phase plug, and provides variable frequency output over a
three phase motor. Three phase motors are typically really cheap,
compared to single phase ones. Even with the local costs for shipping, I
buy an ODP 3HP Leeson motor for about $180 here on the Big Island of
Hawaii. A single phase motor of the same capacity (but not able to do
variable frequency or reverse) is well over twice the cost. I so like
the ability to dial in the speed and direction, that I almost hate to use
the Delta, which has pulley speed changes (about 750 or 800 minimum speed)
and no ability to spin in reverse. Strangely, once you get used to
sanding alternate grits in reverse, you really miss it if you move to a
single rotation lathe. A 1HP package of a VFD and the motor is available
from places like Dealer's Electric at really good prices. Where I live
(Hawaii), shipping motors is a problem because of the freight costs, so I
buy motors locally and purchase the VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) from
the mainland. For motors of 3HP and under, a good choice is the
Teco-Westinghouse, which goes for about $300 most places for the 3HP
version. I haven't checked the price of the smaller versions lately.
I've used a number of the 3HP ones, and so long as you keep the supply
voltage within reasonable limits (not a big deal for most of the mainland,
but here on Hawaii at the end of the supply lines it could be a bit of an
issue, my shop typically sees 245 volts on the 220 supply because I'm at
the end of the road and nobody has built on the road, so the high voltage
supply hasn't been loaded) they work just fine. Once I got a decent
buck/boost transformer to get the voltage down to a reasonable number
(about 225 volts) the VFDs seem to last a long time, and are wonderful to
use, as I can control my lathe from about 60 RPM to about 1000 rpm without
changing pulleys. As I turn mostly large things on this lathe, this is
pretty much ideal.

Before you go for a single speed single phase motor, you might want to
look at the costs of three phase motors running from a VFD.


--Rick

Steve Tiedman

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Apr 27, 2003, 10:46:50 AM4/27/03
to
Rick,

Respectfully, I can't share in your recommendation of the open drip proof
motor. They are meant for otherwise "clean" environments (i.e. not subject to
the junk we turners pump into our very local atmosphere inside the shop) that
could be subject to minor water fall. Airborne dust (especially how we make
it) can still get to the interior workings of the motor, which no motor
manufacturer would want us to be doing. That is why they make the TEFC
(totally enclosed, fan cooled) motors for machinery such as woodworking
equipment and other dirty environment machines.

Yes, they cost more than the open drip proof, but in general they are going to
last longer in our environments because they are designed for our
environments.

The big name motor manufacturers in many instances also produce an after
market bolt on accessory cooling fan for situation when variable rpm motors
are being run in the lower rpm ranges, money being no object, of course! The
accessory fan will run at constant full speed, no matter the motor rpm. The
easy way around this is to run our motors on the lowest pulley speed range
possible for the given job and run the variable speed control as fast as
possible in that pulley range, allowing the internal fan to run as fast as
possible and the motor to run as efficiently as possible. I like to use the
analogy of a manual transmission car, shifting from gear to gear (switching
pulleys) along with variable pressure on the gas pedal (turning the knob on
the electronic motor drive/controller).

Still, I cannot dispute your experience with the odp motors, but I buy the
tefc motors for these situations.

To Shawn, I'd recommend contacting an authorized Baldor dealer and ask him if
this motor would be appropriate for the conditions it will be subject to, and
follow his advice. You'll find one or more in your local phone book, or ask
at the Baldor website. Answering your direct question, yes, I'd stay with
TEFC. Spend the extra money to avoid future worries.

Safe turning,
Steve.
--
Steve Tiedman
s...@mninter.net
Minnesota, USA
Visit http://www.mninter.net/~stiedman/
------

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