Should I stick only to TEFC in my shopping?
"Shawn" <sbea...@jbpierce.org> wrote in message
news:36a8f470.03042...@posting.google.com...
Ken Moon
Webberville, TX
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"George" <someon...@microsoft.com> wrote in message news:<afSoa.1689$zN4.2...@kent.svc.tds.net>...
mike
On 21 Apr 2003 04:19:18 -0700, Shawn <sbea...@jbpierce.org> wrote:
> Recognizing TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled) motors are the most
> desirable. Is there any real worry with using an ODP (open
> drip-proof) motor for a wood lathe. It will be enclosed in a wood
> housing beneath the lathe with vents for air flow - I've thought
> about making the vents with vacuum cleaner filters to help keep out
> wood dust and dirt. Asking because there are some good deals (I
> think) on strong ODP motors; e.g.:
--
Michael Vore, W3CCV M-ASA [Ka8 (MU)] WHIRL (Burley LIMBO)
http://mike.vorefamily.net/ohmywoodness <-Custom Woodworking
http://mike.vorefamily.net/thewoodenradio <-The weblog
John
sbea...@jbpierce.org (Shawn) wrote in message news:<36a8f470.03042...@posting.google.com>...
> Recognizing TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled) motors are the most
> desirable. Is there any real worry with using an ODP (open
> drip-proof) motor for a wood lathe. It will be enclosed in a wood
> housing beneath the lathe with vents for air flow - I've thought about
> making the vents with vacuum cleaner filters to help keep out wood
> dust and dirt. Asking because there are some good deals (I think) on
> strong ODP motors; e.g.:
> $109 for 1 HP 115/230 VAC 1725 RPM ELECTRIC MOTOR
> ? New BALDOR. Industrial motor with ball bearings. Manual overload
> protection.
> SPECIFICATIONS
> ? HP 1
> ? Voltage 115/230 AC
> ? Amps 12.4/6.2
> ? RPM 1725
> ? Rotation reversible
> ? Phase 1
> ? Service factor 1.0
> ? Enclosure ODP
> ? Duty continuous
Fifteen years with an open, drip-proof motor powering the lathe. Gravity
carries the shavings below, and the dust seems to fly out and about every
time I start it up. In my semi-annual tune-up party it gets cleaned, oiled
and adjusted.
"John" <jut...@craworld.com> wrote in message
news:6d46c7ef.03042...@posting.google.com...
"Shawn" <sbea...@jbpierce.org> wrote in message
news:36a8f470.03042...@posting.google.com...
> Recognizing TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled) motors are the most
> desirable. Is there any real worry with using an ODP (open
> drip-proof) motor for a wood lathe. It will be enclosed in a wood
> housing beneath the lathe with vents for air flow - I've thought about
> making the vents with vacuum cleaner filters to help keep out wood
> dust and dirt. Asking because there are some good deals (I think) on
> strong ODP motors; e.g.:
> $109 for 1 HP 115/230 VAC 1725 RPM ELECTRIC MOTOR
> . New BALDOR. Industrial motor with ball bearings. Manual overload
> protection.
> SPECIFICATIONS
> . HP 1
> . Voltage 115/230 AC
> . Amps 12.4/6.2
> . RPM 1725
> . Rotation reversible
> . Phase 1
> . Service factor 1.0
> . Enclosure ODP
> . Duty continuous
I've been using ODP motors on equipment for quite some time. When I built
my big wood lathe, I used a 3HP 3phase ODP Leeson because the price was
considerably less than a TEFC, and I can force cool the ODP easier if I
ever have problems with it heating at slow speeds. The TEFC would
probably be OK to force cool also, but for the money, I'll continue to use
ODP motors on all of my equipment.
When I'm turning something that is really messy, I'll take the air hose
and blow out the motor every few months or so, but so far, I haven't
actually got much out of it during the cleaning process. The motor is
physically about 18 inches below the spindle, and out of the way of most
of the big stuff, but still gets the sanding dust, which (of course) gets
all over the shop. I wouldn't go to using vacuum cleaner filters
because it might impede the airflow, but if you are really worried about
getting stuff into the motor, you might put a couple of furnace filters
around the motor.
So far, even when turning 24" diameter logs, the 3HP motor hasn't got more
than barely warm, so I guess I've over-engineered it for the application,
but I do like being able to turn at very low speeds and still have a
decent amount of torque.
If I were putting a motor on my smaller lathe, (a ten inch delta) I'd be
looking for a 1HP 3phase motor and VFD controller. The VFD hooks up to
your single phase plug, and provides variable frequency output over a
three phase motor. Three phase motors are typically really cheap,
compared to single phase ones. Even with the local costs for shipping, I
buy an ODP 3HP Leeson motor for about $180 here on the Big Island of
Hawaii. A single phase motor of the same capacity (but not able to do
variable frequency or reverse) is well over twice the cost. I so like
the ability to dial in the speed and direction, that I almost hate to use
the Delta, which has pulley speed changes (about 750 or 800 minimum speed)
and no ability to spin in reverse. Strangely, once you get used to
sanding alternate grits in reverse, you really miss it if you move to a
single rotation lathe. A 1HP package of a VFD and the motor is available
from places like Dealer's Electric at really good prices. Where I live
(Hawaii), shipping motors is a problem because of the freight costs, so I
buy motors locally and purchase the VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) from
the mainland. For motors of 3HP and under, a good choice is the
Teco-Westinghouse, which goes for about $300 most places for the 3HP
version. I haven't checked the price of the smaller versions lately.
I've used a number of the 3HP ones, and so long as you keep the supply
voltage within reasonable limits (not a big deal for most of the mainland,
but here on Hawaii at the end of the supply lines it could be a bit of an
issue, my shop typically sees 245 volts on the 220 supply because I'm at
the end of the road and nobody has built on the road, so the high voltage
supply hasn't been loaded) they work just fine. Once I got a decent
buck/boost transformer to get the voltage down to a reasonable number
(about 225 volts) the VFDs seem to last a long time, and are wonderful to
use, as I can control my lathe from about 60 RPM to about 1000 rpm without
changing pulleys. As I turn mostly large things on this lathe, this is
pretty much ideal.
Before you go for a single speed single phase motor, you might want to
look at the costs of three phase motors running from a VFD.
--Rick
Respectfully, I can't share in your recommendation of the open drip proof
motor. They are meant for otherwise "clean" environments (i.e. not subject to
the junk we turners pump into our very local atmosphere inside the shop) that
could be subject to minor water fall. Airborne dust (especially how we make
it) can still get to the interior workings of the motor, which no motor
manufacturer would want us to be doing. That is why they make the TEFC
(totally enclosed, fan cooled) motors for machinery such as woodworking
equipment and other dirty environment machines.
Yes, they cost more than the open drip proof, but in general they are going to
last longer in our environments because they are designed for our
environments.
The big name motor manufacturers in many instances also produce an after
market bolt on accessory cooling fan for situation when variable rpm motors
are being run in the lower rpm ranges, money being no object, of course! The
accessory fan will run at constant full speed, no matter the motor rpm. The
easy way around this is to run our motors on the lowest pulley speed range
possible for the given job and run the variable speed control as fast as
possible in that pulley range, allowing the internal fan to run as fast as
possible and the motor to run as efficiently as possible. I like to use the
analogy of a manual transmission car, shifting from gear to gear (switching
pulleys) along with variable pressure on the gas pedal (turning the knob on
the electronic motor drive/controller).
Still, I cannot dispute your experience with the odp motors, but I buy the
tefc motors for these situations.
To Shawn, I'd recommend contacting an authorized Baldor dealer and ask him if
this motor would be appropriate for the conditions it will be subject to, and
follow his advice. You'll find one or more in your local phone book, or ask
at the Baldor website. Answering your direct question, yes, I'd stay with
TEFC. Spend the extra money to avoid future worries.
Safe turning,
Steve.
--
Steve Tiedman
s...@mninter.net
Minnesota, USA
Visit http://www.mninter.net/~stiedman/
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