Hot shavings
Jonathan Zeitlin
I'm a novice woodturner with a question. When I turn, using 3/8 or 1/2
gouges, the shavings produced are uncomfortably hot when not using
gloves. My question is whether hot shavings are inherent in this work or
is this a function of the sharpness of the gouges, the speed of the
turning or even the type of wood. The speed I'm turning is within the
recommendations for the SuperNova Chuck. I'm using. I'm slowly learning
how to keep an edge on the tools but the heat is there even when I'm
sure I have a sharp edge. The heat is more obvious in face work but is
there between centers as well. (By the way, they used to call me
"asbestos hands" when I worked in the ceramics factory.) What's wrong
with this picture?
Jonathan
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"People are not the problem,
the problem is the problem"
Grusserry
moisture, hardness, cutting angle of the tool, etc. And, it gets hotter when it
is cut faster. And, it gets hotter yet when the cutting edge is dull. Even with
a slower speed and a sharp tool, I wear a glove when the heat or abrasion
become uncomfortable.
The shavings from a spindle turning will be cooler than those of a face cut
because of the low angle shearing action of the spindle gouge. When we are able
to duplicate this cutting action with a bowl gouge, its shavings will also
become cooler.
Russ Fairfield
Silverdale, WA.
Derek Andrews
appreciate what a truly sharp tool is like. Most tools are not sharp
when you buy them. One fellow came in to my shop the other day and told
me that he got a lathe last Xmas, and the tools are just starting to get
dull. I let him try my skew chisel on a peice of scrap maple and I could
just see the lights go on in his eyes when he felt how easy it was to
cut with it.
Jonathan, I would try to find an experienced woodturner or an instructor
who can get you started in this great craft. You will gain a lot more in
an hour with some guidance than from all the books you can read. In the
mean time, sharpen your tools and reduce the speed and see if that
helps.
Derek
--
Derek Andrews
Sunrise Woodcrafts
http://www.sunrisewoodcrafts.ns.ca
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John Lucas
I would agree with everything Russ has said and will add one more.
Pushing the bevel into the piece hard will cause excess friction. You
have to have the bevel rubbing but back off the pressure.
I was turning some ash this weekend. It was about 1 1/2" in
diameter and it was burning my fingers. I run the lathe at 2400 rpm and
the tool was quite sharp. I tend to cut pretty aggressively in the
early stages and the tool was getting quite hot. After I roughed out
the shape I took it easier on the pressure and the tool ran much
cooler. John Lucas
James R. Johnson
the cutting of the wood fibers, and this power shows up as heat in the
shaving and on the tool. For something different, try turning some green
wet wood. You will instantly see the difference, in that the shavings are
cool, the turning is easier, the tool is cool, and you are having a lot of
fun. The difference is that the green wood consumes less power, plus the
evaporation of the sap will cool down things also. But chances are that you
simply need to put on a tight fitting leather glove.
Regards, James R. Johnson
Jonathan Zeitlin wrote in message <39693EFA...@erols.com>...
Darrell Feltmate
I have to agree with James. Try the green wood. In fact, if you are
learning, try a lot of green wood. It is cheaper and a lot of fun. Turn
anything you can think of and mostly make shavings. Never mind the
sanding or the finish, just turn and burn. Practice helps the tools cut
better than almost anything I can think of except handing them to an
experienced turner (and he/she practiced.) That said, dry wood still
turns hotter than green. I am a right hander that turns left handed more
often than not so I wear a glove on either hand. BUT!!! CUT THE ENDS OF
THE FINGERS OFF THE GLOVES!!! Get a glove that fits and cut off the
fingers for about an inch. You do not want to get that last inch of
finger caught in the lathe. Think about it. You also gain in tactile
control. Hope this helps.
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
robe...@mindspringnospam.com
dont sweat in them to much, and the palm is slightly padded for comfort.
They cost about $9 at the sports store.
Bob
mhordam
I'm dragging my soapbox out again.
I'd be reluctant in the extreme to advise anyone to wear gloves
when operating something with revolving parts like a lathe. For
someone who describes themself as a novice I'd actively
discourage it. You know how easy it is to get a catch with the
tool (and that doesn't go away entirely when you think you're no
longer a novice), equally easy would be to get the glove caught.
See how quickly a polishing rag gets pulled in if it snags
(Banksia nuts are particularly good at this if you're curious to
see it happen) then imagine it with fingers inside. It's not
worth the risk. Hot shavings are one of those facts of turning
that you don't find much mention of until you start but they're
not going to hurt you.
Of course you could wear surgical gloves then at least you'd be
appropriately dressed when being rushed to hospital!
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Lwardret94
thumb exposed. The chips fly off the strap where they used to get hot. I made
this out of leather, it fits snug and works quite well for me. Larry Ward
Jack Hahn
mhordam <brianN...@mhordam.freeserve.co.uk.invalid> wrote in message
news:0229eae1...@usw-ex0105-037.remarq.com...
mhordam
quoted message but no reply. Could you post again?