Cutting out rounds

[Dan Jefferson]

Had to cut some rounds for turning out of maple today. My 9" bandsaw would
not do the job. I had to use a bigger saw at a seniors centre. Is there
anyone cutting out rounds with something besides a bandsaw. I certainly
don't want to buy bigger bandsaw.

Thanks for any replies...

[Greg G.]

Dan Jefferson said:

I sometimes hack them up with a chain saw - but I wouldn't call them
"rounds." More like geometric anomalies. Starting slow on the lathe,
it works.

Greg G.

[Martin H. Eastburn]

What bandsaw do you have ? - might be horse power or simply the blade.
Skip tooth and lots of clean out ability is what you need. If you can't
get skip tooth - then get a very coarse tooth - 8 ot 10 tpi.

I use a Delta that I upgraded to be a 14" (Riser kit) and sometimes I wish
I had a larger table. And other times a wider blade for re-saw.

Martin

[sbnjhfty]

How often do you have to do it? Can you just use the senior center
saw again? Maybe give them some stock in exchange?

[Greg G.]

Stuart said:

>In article <8dsbg519isp559gun...@4ax.com>,

> Greg G.<gr...@nospam.com> wrote:
>
>> I sometimes hack them up with a chain saw - but I wouldn't call them
>> "rounds." More like geometric anomalies
>

>You owe me some screen wipes :-)
>
>Brilliant description!

Thanks. :)
We'll be back each Friday, and don't forget to tip the waitresses.
So it's not a morgue in here after all...

Greg G.

[mac davis]

On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:29:57 -0500, "Dan Jefferson" <djeff...@cogeco.ca>
wrote:

What diameter rounds? How thick?
Without info, I'd guess that whatever size they were, they were more than a 9"
BS can handle... HP, blade, etc.. lots of factors involved..

Before I had a BS, I'd rough them with the chainsaw then trip what I could with
a recip saw with a 7 or 8" blade..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[robo hippy]

If you can do a good job with a chainsaw in getting a flat bottom and
maybe flat top on your blanks, then cutting on the band saw shouldn't
be too much of a problem. However, you may need a bigger band saw. I
would consider a 1 hp motor to be standard, and the proper blade makes
a huge difference as well. For me, I turn green wood, and use a 1/2
inch, 3 tpi blade, and the teeth have a set to them. This is not a
resawing blade for boards. If you are cutting blanks from dry wood,
then one of these blades would work fine. As a production turner,
having a big bandsaw (Laguna 16 HD) is a necessity as I find it easier
to use than a chainsaw, and not as noisy. There are a number of
bandsaw blade makers out there, and you can web search them. Call them
up and talk to them about your saw and blades. It could make a big
difference.

robo hippy

On Nov 20, 6:33 am, mac davis <m...@davisbajasplinters.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:29:57 -0500, "Dan Jefferson" <djeffer...@cogeco.ca>

[spaco]

Why wouldn't your bandsaw work?
Not enough throat?
Not enough power?
I have an ancient 10 inch delta bandsaw that only has a 1/4 hp motor.
I can saw cherry blanks 6 inches thick. I use a 3-4 tooth/inch blade.
I am amazed at how well it works.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------------------------------

[Dan Jefferson]

The blade would become jambed in the wood.
I intend to try a new blade as has been suggested here.

Thanks to all who replied.....Dan

"spaco" <sp...@baldwin-telecom.net> wrote in message
news:dKydnb2njO1bC5PW...@bright.net...

[Greg G.]

Dan Jefferson said:

>The blade would become jambed in the wood.
>I intend to try a new blade as has been suggested here.

Make certain that the blade width is small enough to achieve the
desired radius of cut, that there is "set" to the blade teeth, and use
a blade in the 3-5 TPI range. If the motor bogs, feed material slower.

Greg G.

[Greg G.]

Greg G. said:

Before anyone asks, here is a brief generalization of
blade width vs. minimum cut radius:

Blade Width 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 3/4" 1"
Min. Radius 3/16" 5/16" 5/8" 1 1/2" 2 1/2" 5 1/2" 7"

I doubt that you can get a blade over 1/2" for such a small saw, so
cutting 6" diameter blanks should not be a problem. And remember the
chart represents the absolute minimum radius - a bit of extra
clearance is always appreciated. Cutting wood thicker than 2-3" is
probably going to be a tough job with a 9" saw. Very dense hardwoods
or tropicals like Ironwood or Ipe will be darned near
impossible/slower than a glacier.

Also keep in mind that if you're not using a circle guide when cutting
your blanks, your feed technique determines the actual cut radius as
seen by the blade. Uneven, coarse path adjustments can result in a
binding condition with even the best blade and saw.

Hope you get it resolved.

Greg G.

[Darrell Feltmate]

I kind of do it this way: http://aroundthewoods.com/firewood02.shtml
the video can be a help.

Darrell

--
----
Darrell Feltmate
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

[mac davis]

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 12:43:35 -0500, "Dan Jefferson" <djeff...@cogeco.ca>
wrote:

Jamming is almost always caused by movement of the wood.. either tilting because
of an irregular bottom, trying to force the blade on a turn and twisting it in
the kerf, of feeding the wood too fast..

If the wood is steady and the blade cutting freely, you need very little HP to
cut whatever will fit in your saw..

Try drawing a hexagon over your circle and making straight cuts, then coming
back and cleaning up the circle..