glue for velcro
Phil Lackey
adhesive that is on tha velcro will over time peel from the rubber mandrel
when removing the sanding disc. What type of glue should I use to help this
problem?
Super glue? contact cement? Please help.
Thanks
Phil
Art and Diane
I've used contact cement and haven't had a failure with it. In my case, the
disk had flown off and the velcro quickly disappeared. I got replacement
velcro from Craft Supplies and had to peel off the old piece from the rubber,
but the repair was essentially the same.
Art Learmonth
Iowa
python
nothing lasts forever. CA glue seems to hold the best with poly coming in
second. The CA does seem to burn pock marks into the rubber.
You could try Epoxy or one of the rubberized glues. How bout JB Weld? I might
try that! Joaz
http://www.maine-web.com/woodturning
HTTP://WWW.MORNINGSTARSEAFOODANDGIFTS.COM
Gary Hern
heat. CA glue will just eat away at the foam backer in most cases. I've
used 3-M #77 spray adhesive and it has worked better than the factory
glue for reapplying. It's expensive but it works for all kinds of
stuff. I use it when I need to make two identical parts for furniture
or when using the scroll saw. It can even be removed by applying
mineral spirits, however, I don't recommend that. It may eat at your
backer in this instance. If you want to protect this from happening
again, pick your self up a couple of backer pads. They're relatively
inexpensive. I bought one for each grit that I use and keep the paper
attached to it. I don't use it very often because of the cost of the
paper! I save it for the times when I need the 80Grit gouge!
In article <oU2b6.1289$Qo5....@news.uswest.net>,
--
Gary Hern
St. Louis, MO.
Remodelor by trade, Turner by addiction!
Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/
Bruce Matthews
mandrel. Just be sure to really sand the rubber well to help the bond.
Kind of like you do when putting on an inner tube patch. You gotta
break the skin. Another option might be RTV silicone rubber but it
would be slow to dry if the velcro is one large pad. I need to make or
get some mandrels too. What are you using for sanding discs? How did
you make the mandrels?
Bruce Matthews
Darrell Feltmate
Here are a couple of thoughts about a sanding mandrel. I assume we are
talking about a holder for 2 or 3 inch cloth backed disks for a velcro
system. I obtained a holder for 3M Rol-loc sanding disks at Canadian
Tire for about C$10.00. The Rol-loc disks are obtainable at any auto
parts store and are used for auto body work. They are hard backed and I
think unsuitable for wood use, particularly for power sanding on a lath,
although I have heard of some people using them for surface texturing.
Instead, I cut a circle of neoprene rubber from a computer wrist support
to fit the sanding disk and glue it to a Rol-loc disk using super glue.
I glue velcro to the rubber with super glue, put the disk in the mandrel
and chuck the whole thing in the drill press. Using a rasp with the
press going I true up the whole thing with a rasp. Mess, mess, mess ,
mess, mess. It works. Now I have a system with a separate disk for each
grit form 80 to 2000. The Rol-loc fastens on with a quarter turn and is
designed to be used up to about 30,000 rpm so it lasts and lasts with
our use. The disks last longer because the velcro is not pulled off and
on all the time. If the rubber pills or wears I make a new disk. I just
leave a mandrel chucked in the drill for power sanding. Incidentally,
the drill and dust collector are plugged into their own power bar. I can
not use the drill for power sanding unless the dust collector is on.
Love those lungs.
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Perth-Andover, NB
Craig McCormick
rubber cement to glue the foam backing to the valve and the velcro to the
foam pad. Works very well.
Good luck,
Craig
"Phil Lackey" <fisher...@uswest.net> wrote in message
news:oU2b6.1289$Qo5....@news.uswest.net...
Don Dillon
about how to glue dissimiler objects together.
cindy drozda
I also have tried to make my own "velcro" sanding pads...and have not
found a glue that would hold up, particularly on a 1" pad. Have tried
neoprene adhesive, spray 3M #77, contact cement, "disk cement", ca
glue...next thing I will try (when I get around to it) is E6000 adhesive
used like a contact cement. Unless someone beats me to it, I will post my
results.
My question on the subject is: how do you get the old velcro off of the
comercially available pads??? I have found it to wear out before it has a
chance to fall off, and have had a hell of a time getting a smooth surface
on the rubber pad after I pulled the velcro off. The best solution I have
come up with is to sand the teeth off of the velcro on the pad and try to
glue to that. Anyone have another solution? (I'm not interested in the
extra velcro interface pad at this time)
Good idea about the computer wrist support foam, nice soft foam for a
pad...how well does it hold up? I tried some ensolite (camping pad) foam,
and it breaks down too quickly with the pressure of sanding.
-CD-
boulder, co
M H
cindy drozda wrote in message <98028853...@irys.nyx.net>...
I just use a glue gun Lasts as long as any other
Michael
Bill Neddow
my sanding, partly because of the problems
being discussed here, and now use the 3M
Roloc system on all grits from 80 down to
220. When I first tried the Roloc system I
found it most unsuitable. It was too hard and
tended to dig in. Then one day I was reading
an article in a very old Wooden Boat
magazine about a man who was making a good
living grinding the paint off big wooden
boats with an old Black and Decker 6 inch
auto body grinder with a very hard backing
pad. He could do a whole 36 foot boat in a day
without any dig-ins and with a surface so
smooth people could not believe it.
The secret, he said was in the angle at which
he held the pad. People tend to try and turn
the pad up on edge when they sand. Instant
gouge. He ground with the pad almost flat --
only a degree or two of an angle.
I immediately headed for the shop and dug
out my discarded Roloc pads. It worked! And
the more I used it, the happier I was. It does
a fabulous job on spalted wood because it does
not gouge out the soft wood. It is also great
on oak and ash, where the same problem can
occur as foam backed pads tear out the soft
wood in the growth rings. The Roloc system
does not do this.
I also find I can maintain very sharp edges
on decorative rings. The foam backed
systems always rounded those off on me and
restoring them took a lot of hand sanding.
One drawback would appear to be cost. But
the Roloc disks (designed to grind metal)
seem to last two to three times longer than
the best velcro backed disks -- so they
actually cost less in the long run. The other
problem until a few months ago was finding
them. Wholesalers were reluctant to carry
the Roloc sanding disks because (they said)
3M insisted they had to buy a whole case.
Now, 3M (in Canada) is willing to ship by
the box (50 disks). Thus, you can get a
wholesale price on a relatively small
quantity.
In article <
3A6D7D32...@nbnet.nb.ca>,
Darrell Feltmate <pr...@nbnet.nb.ca>
wrote:
Bruce Matthews
inclucing it. Gotta love those cheap news servers :o(
Bruce Matthews
Vancouver Canada
Herman de Vries
same velcro on it that I started with. I used ordinary
silicone to glue it on.
Herm
fisher...@uswest.net (Phil Lackey) wrote in
<oU2b6.1289$Qo5....@news.uswest.net>:
Herman de Vries
silicone to glue on the velcro.
I just want to make sure we're talking about the same thing.
I went to the fabric store with my wife and as she was doing
her shopping I was just poking around. I saw a role of velcro,
and I bought it for my shop. I glued the velcro "hooks" side
to my mandrel with silicone, and use ordinary sanding disks
with it. They stick to the velcro so hard I really have to pull
to get the disk back off the tool. As I said before, neither the
velcro not the silicone I used to glue it on show any sign of
letting go.
Herm
fisher...@uswest.net (Phil Lackey) wrote in
<oU2b6.1289$Qo5....@news.uswest.net>:
>I have made some sanding mandrels and am having a problem in that the
Darrell Feltmate
I find the rubber from the wrist pads holds up pretty well, at least as
well as the rubber on my commercial sanding pads.
Darrell Feltmate
Sounds good and I always have silicone around the shop. I have to make
up a few new pads too so I will try it next.
James R. Johnson
glued to a sanding disc that fits the "Snap-on" mandrel. I use contact
cement. After gluing to the disc, I chuck it up in my drill and shape the
outer edge of the foam into a 45 degree slope by 'sanding' the edge against
a coarse piece of sandpaper attached to my workbench. Clouds and clouds of
rubber dust!! Take approporiate precautions!
After shaping, I glue on a 2-3 oz piece of leather that has been cut into a
circle 3/4-1" larger in diameter than the foam. Contact cement again, two
coats on everything before assembly. Smooth side of leather down. I.e.,
the flesh side of the leather to the foam.
You can attach the velcro to the leather, but I use double sided carpet tape
with A weight sandpaper. 120, 220, 320 grit, open coat, silicon carbide.
If you sand hard enough for the carpet tape to turn loose, you are pressing
too hard.
Also, do not use while the lathe is turned on. If you do, you are sanding
100% of the piece all the time, and lots of time you only have a small area
or two you need to sand. So sand without the lathe running. After sanding
to 320 grit, I polish the wood with a 8" cotton buffing wheel charged with
white diamond compound. Most people are astounded by how smooth the wood
gets.
Many years ago, before I became even semi-skilled at turning, I used to
start sanding with a 7" body grinder and 36 grit sandpaper. It would take
longer to sand a piece than to turn it. But since I started using this soft
foam system, my sanding only takes a few minutes. You can make up a box
full of sanding pads of different sizes for a nominal amount, and they will
last a long time. Also, you can make some with square edges (firmer this
way) and the leather the same diameter as the foam. These are handy for
sanding next to a shoulder. Incidentally, the leather is vital. It acts as
an anti-squirm surface and keeps the sandpaper from wrinkling. Vinyl,
canvas, whatever never seems to work as well.
Try it, you will like it.
James R. Johnson
www.ktc.com/~streeeng
cindy drozda wrote in message <98028853...@irys.nyx.net>...
>
>I also have tried to make my own "velcro" sanding pads...and have not
>found a glue that would hold up, particularly on a 1" pad. Have tried
>neoprene adhesive, spray 3M #77, contact cement, "disk cement", ca
>glue...next thing I will try (when I get around to it) is E6000 adhesive
>used like a contact cement. Unless someone beats me to it, I will post my
>results.
<snip>