Anchor Seal Alternative
RP Edington
past I have ruined some excellent ash by not coating the ends of the
logs properly. I did coat the ends with some shellac, but it still
split wide and deep. Of course I did bring it from Indiana to
Oklahoma. I can't get Anchor Seal up here in northen Oklahoma, and I
don't have any turning clubs to go to. I am basically here on my own.
Anchor Seal is pretty expensive too, I think I have read some posts
on its price.
Is there some cheaper alternative I can use. I have a 19" dia.,
120lb, green log of walnut I don't want to split up like the ash did.
I just cut it today. I coated the ends of the logs with Titebond II.
Better than nothing. I plan to turn it up soon, but what else can I
get easily and econimically.
Wax is a possibility, I haven't it before. Just any candle wax?
What are some alternatives to preserving this beautiful wood?
Thanks,
RP
Bill Rubenstein
than 1 gal retail by far. Or, if you can find someone to split a 55 gal
drum the cost is pretty good even with shipping. Have you priced candle
wax?
Regards,
Bill
In article <341fc1b5.03082...@posting.google.com>,
eding...@cs.com says...
Steve Worcester
work. Or, go to Homedepot and get some latex paint from the Oops bin at a
couple buck a gallon, it will work, but anchorseal would be better.
--
Steve Worcester
www.turningwood.com
Better Woodturning through Technology
(And a hell of alotta practice)
"Bill Rubenstein" <ws...@swbell.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.19b1e1c1b...@news.kc.sbcglobal.net...
Peter Teubel
>I can't get Anchor Seal up here in northen Oklahoma
Yes, you can. Order it from UC Coatings and you can have it shipped to your door.
Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com
Gerald Ross
is a creamy wax emulsion that dries to a nearly clear wax coating.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
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Jim Pugh
is real handy. If you decide to go the wax route as a short term fix,
go get canning wax at the grocery store. Much more economical than
candle wax.
Also, sealing the ends of logs is a temporary measure at best because
most will split in time. It just gives you some breathing room before
you have to butcher them.
Jim in Ohio
Dan Bollinger
preferencial. (stearic acid is added to make wax harder)
"Jim Pugh" <jp...@eriecoast.com> wrote in message
news:3F48AAF2...@eriecoast.com...
Derek Hartzell
last 2 months. I Anchorseal the ends of my wood and then tarp it with
silver tarps, weighting the edge every 4' or so. About once a month I hose
the wood down and soak the ground pretty good. This delivered far better
results than Anchorseal alone.
Derek
Fred Holder
You havn't time to order in Anchor Seal to save that log. Canning wax or candle
wax melted and painted on will help as will some old Latex paint. However, I
would immediately cover the endgrain with a piece of plastic. If you have a
plastic bag large enough to go over the ends slip it on then tie it down with a
piece of string, a bungie cord, etc.
If you use a plastic bag, be sure to reverse it every day or so to cut down on
mold or spalting. I kept a piece of wet Madrone in a plastic bag for about two
months without even turning the sack. It was not intentional, I just forgot
about it. Incidentally, except for a little mold on the outside, the wood was
not hurt.
You should rough turn that wood as soon as possible because Anchor Seal, wax,
paint, or a plastic bag are only temporary fixes to buy you a little time.
Unless you make it thinner by rough turning the log will eventually split in all
of the wrong places.
Good luck with it.
Fred Holder
<http://www.fholder.com/>
In article <341fc1b5.03082...@posting.google.com>, RP Edington
says...
william_b_noble
here on the left coast, the towns and cities have a place where you can
bring old paint (it's a hazardous waste) and drop it off, or if you want
some, pick it up. I've used this approach a few times and it seems to work,
others on this NG seem to use it more regularly. Paint costs more than the
wax emulsions, but free paint is pretty cheap.
bill
"Dan Bollinger" <danbol...@insightbb.remove.com> wrote in message
news:VF22b.182157$cF.61055@rwcrnsc53...
Tim Yoder
a club in Tulsa that meets every third Tuesday of the month. We sell a
gallon of green wood sealer (I think it is Anchorseal) for $9.00 a gallon.
We buy a 55 gallon drum at a time to keep the price down. Whatever it is it
works very well and goes quite a long way.
Our next meeting might be to late for the wood you got. I have an unopened
gallon I bought at the last meeting. I work in Claremore and if that is a
bit shorter drive I could meet you and get the sealer to you.
Our web site is www.wneo.com and it has our meeting times and directions.
Hope to hear from you.
Tim Yoder
Woodturners of Northeastern Oklahoma
yoda325 at cox dot net
"RP Edington" <eding...@cs.com> wrote in message
news:341fc1b5.03082...@posting.google.com...
BillK
the same dilemma. In the past I have used Anchorseal & also canning
wax, preferring to use waxy coatings rather than paint because the wax
is more impermeable.
I have heated the wax in an old coffe can sitting in an electric fry
pan set at 300F. This seems hot enough without being dangerous
(subjective opinion) for the wax to flow while I paint the ends of
several logs.
Now a revelation, A NEW USE FOR LDD!
Having just run out of Anchorseal, it occured to me that I might be
able to make my own emulsion to extend the amount of wax. My old
chemistry knowledge is a bit rusty, but I seemed to recall that oil &
water can be mixed using a detergent or by using high speed mixing,
such as a blender. Deciding on the detergent route & doing some rough
experiments I found it possible to make a mix of wax, chain bar oil
(to lower the wax melting point), water & YESSS, LDD.
The recipe is not exact as I cook like my grandmother. Just
eyeballing the ingredients as they are thrown into the stew. Besides,
I guess there is a lot of leeway for what will work. A starting point
would be wax & oil, about 1:1 ratio heated in the can. When that is
melted, mix in another 1 part of water that has some LDD liberally
squirted in. After cooking & disolving, apply to the wood.
I have purchased parafin wax from the local craft store, they have 1 &
2# blocks at a lower price than grocery canning wax. Also, yard sales
are a good source for cheap candles. They add a little color to the
coating.
The resultant coating is thin & soft & resembles the Anchorseal
finish.
Bill Kram
> In article <341fc1b5.03082...@posting.google.com>, RP Edington
> says...
>
George
alternative a while back.
The surfactant is what helps the non-polar molecules of the wax stay
suspended in the polar solvent.
"BillK" <biln...@juno.com> wrote in message
news:b926a14a.03082...@posting.google.com...
Silverpdx
Also to RP Edington: where is this forest of walnut trees and logs that you
just "came into"? Actually how do any of you guys manage to just walk into
such great deals?
Patty
"RP Edington" <eding...@cs.com> wrote in message
news:341fc1b5.03082...@posting.google.com...
Chuck
<portlan...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>What is LDD? Inquiring minds want to know!
Liquid Dishwashing Detergent
>
>Also to RP Edington: where is this forest of walnut trees and logs that you
>just "came into"? Actually how do any of you guys manage to just walk into
>such great deals?
Keep your eyes open, ask around. I'm always on the lookout for people
cutting trees, myself. Particularly if they're professionals. I stop
and ask them about how they dispose of their wood, and ask if I can
have a piece of whatever they're cutting, tell them why I want it,
give them my business card and ask to be called, if they need help
getting rid of other wood. Call the tree surgeons in your area and
ask them for wood, look for areas where they're widening the road or
trimming trees from around electric poles, make friends with a logger
or two.
It also helps that I live in the middle of the Adirondack Park,
surrounded by trees and half the people around here are loggers..
[Just a little drive-by gloat, there.]
--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.
<><
September 11, 2001 - Never Forget
Brad
some other oil (such as a more traditional oil for finishing) work as
well ?
The price of Anchorseal depends on how much you use, and where you
live. I get a 5-gallon bucket delivered for $ 40.00, and if a club
purchases a 55 gallon barrel and dispenses it to the members, its even
cheaper.
Safe Spinning,
Brad Vietje
Thetford, VT
George
being lighter overall. If you like mineral oil, just to stay in the
inorganic mode, use it.
"Brad" <bpvb...@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:133f9476.03082...@posting.google.com...
Kip055
>some other oil (such as a more traditional oil for finishing) work as
>well ?
Actually, bar and chain oil might be a good idea: they are usually formulated
with a "tackifier" most probably polyisobutylene that increases "stickiness" a
bit. It could give a better protective coating. Usually, you end up cutting
an inch or more of the log end away and that's deeper than any surface applied
material will penetrate.
Kip Powers
Rogers AR
(The chemist in me slips out now and then)
BillK
> Absolutely. Mentioned the blender, wax and surfactant approach as an
> alternative a while back.
>
> The surfactant is what helps the non-polar molecules of the wax stay
> suspended in the polar solvent.
>
>
Have not seen your previous posts. I have been doing some "trial &
error" mixes & may be reinventing the wheel. Would prefer to try a
"cold" emulsion rather than the heated wax mixes. Do you have any
suggestions?
Bill
George
to be more of a mildew-enhancer than anything else. I have excellent luck
drying "normal" turnings - the kind without too many knots and such - by
simply keeping them in open air. When I save a well-figured piece of
firewood for resaw or possible turning, I use the remnants of my one gallon
of Anchorseal or my homebrew oil-softened wax.
As a former GI, I recall water emulsion wax well, and Anchorseal seems very
much like thick water emulsion wax. Even has that faint alcohol smell,
which I attribute to the surfactant. I would use a nonionic surfactant
(alcohol ethoxylates most common) for its low sudsing properties, a blender
I did not have to answer to SWMBO for, and warm water to help emulsify the
wax. Chemistry is simple, proportions not, since the concentration of the
surfactant you buy may not be the same as someone else's. Proponents of
LDD are using probably a 2% anionic surfactant, diluting from there.
"BillK" <biln...@juno.com> wrote in message
news:b926a14a.03082...@posting.google.com...
Chuck
<someon...@microsoft.com> wrote:
George,
>As a former GI, I recall water emulsion wax well,
What did you use this for, in the Army?
George
I recall an effort in the early days of the "all volunteer force" when a
civilian contractor was hired to do the floors. He did - with acrylics.
They shone like a diamond, but there were no buff marks to show effort.
Within a month we had returned to a regular GI detail , washing and buffing
our soft, water-emulsion waxed floors every day so the general could see the
result of effort.
"Chuck" <chaz391...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3f4cf0c0...@news.capital.net...
Chuck
<someon...@microsoft.com> wrote:
>Keeping the troops busy. Like digging trenches and filling them again.
>
>I recall an effort in the early days of the "all volunteer force" when a
>civilian contractor was hired to do the floors. He did - with acrylics.
>They shone like a diamond, but there were no buff marks to show effort.
>Within a month we had returned to a regular GI detail , washing and buffing
>our soft, water-emulsion waxed floors every day so the general could see the
>result of effort.
Ah, okay. I spent many an hour on the wrong end of a buffer myself.
We tended more towards using Kiwi Neutral, though, except on communal
areas, where we used the liquid stuff.