Mark Haveman <hav...@mcn.org> wrote in message
news:380BB13E...@mcn.org...
It comes in an aerosol spray can and is very convienient and easy to apply
Rex Haslip
Auckland
New Zealand
Mark Haveman <hav...@mcn.org> wrote in article
<380BB13E...@mcn.org>...
Grusserry <grus...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:19991018201555...@ng-ba1.aol.com...
Cocobolo is one of those woods that everyone will eventually develop an allergy
to. If you don't have it, just wait, because you will. It is only a matter of
time.
It's a Darwinian world out there.
Kyle Goodnight wrote in message <7ui6di$235$1...@autumn.news.rcn.net>...
cvl
Kyle Goodnight wrote in message <7ui6di$235$1...@autumn.news.rcn.net>...
>What is it about walnut that is so toxic?
>
I don't suppose you might be...allergic? It may not be the tree as much
as your system.
--
Maxxed
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
In a search about Walnut, Juglone, and toxicity, the only reference to
toxic effect from juglone is to some plants and micro-organisms. In
reference to humans, the only toxicity reference that was found was
'pollen may cause hay fever'. So while this substance is present in
Walnut (in varying amounts), there doesn't seem to be any documentation
to back up it's adverse affect on humans. Of course, I could have
missed a few sources, as it was hardly an exhaustive search (only about
62 documents mostly from University sources).
The only advice would be to use the usual precautions in avoiding
excessive amounts of dust from this (or any other)source.
As for finish? Find something to seal it completely, and it should
negate any 'ill effects' from the wood and juglone. One would think, at
any rate.
max
> Kyle Goodnight wrote in message <7ui6di$235$1...@autumn.news.rcn.net>...
> >What is it about walnut that is so toxic?
> >
>
>
--
Like peanuts, some people are just alergic to walnuts. That's why it's
dangerous to use a walnut oil without disclosure.
I used to do a lot of wok cooking and I used peanut oil. Had to check with
everyone before I served them.
WoodTurners Anonymous of Richmond, Va, an AAW Chapter
max...@my-deja.com wrote in message <7ulgr2$t1a$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...
All in all, you make some good points. The fact that it hasn't been
researched does *not* mean the issue isn't valid. While I wouldn't want
to swim in juglone, the small amounts I encounter will not dissuade me
from using it. After all, even water will kill you if you have enough
of it.
I would choose either a good oil based polyurethane or simply use a drying
oil. Drying oils, which form a film by reacting with oxygen, are oils
derived from nuts -- such as linseed oil, tung oil, walnut oil, etc. Mineral
and vegetable oils do not dry, and vegetable oils go rancid. Incidentally,
peanut oil is not a drying oil, and for good reason -- peanuts are not nuts,
they are legumes.
For the record, my favorite high gloss knife handle is one I made of pau
ferro and finished with linseed oil crosslinked with cyanoacrylate. The
coating is hard, glossy, dishwasher safe, and cures in about 3 seconds per
coat. Cyanoacrylate adhesive will cause linseed oil to crosslink immediately
into a hard finish. Handy tip for turners, I think...
Michael Dresdner
Finishing Consultant
3303 28th St. SE
Puyallup, WA, 98374
http://www.michaeldresdner.com
That is an interesting tip on linseed oil and CA glue. Would you be interested
in elaborating a bit on it. I've used linseed oil on a lot of my work, but could
never get a hard glossy finish from it. How are you applying the CA glue? Do you
apply the linseed oil so that it can soak into the wood and then immediately
apply the CA glue in a flooding sort of way to activate what you call
crosslinking. Of course flooding CA glue can be a pretty expensive finish. I've
use just the CA glue on small item to provide a very hard and durable finish,
but have always considered too expensive and too hard to control for larger
pieces.
In fact, I would be interested in an article on this subject for publication in
More Woodturning. If it isn't too difficult to execute, I would suspect it would
be a boon for some woodturners.
Fred Holder
<http://www.fholder.com/>
In article <7un5es$rr$1...@nntp5.atl.mindspring.net>, "Michael says...
>
>Just go for convenience and durability, since virtually all common finishes
>are food safe once they are cured.
>
>I would choose either a good oil based polyurethane or simply use a drying
>oil. Drying oils, which form a film by reacting with oxygen, are oils
>derived from nuts -- such as linseed oil, tung oil, walnut oil, etc. Mineral
>and vegetable oils do not dry, and vegetable oils go rancid. Incidentally,
>peanut oil is not a drying oil, and for good reason -- peanuts are not nuts,
>they are legumes.
>
>For the record, my favorite high gloss knife handle is one I made of pau
>ferro and finished with linseed oil crosslinked with cyanoacrylate. The
>coating is hard, glossy, dishwasher safe, and cures in about 3 seconds per
>coat. Cyanoacrylate adhesive will cause linseed oil to crosslink immediately
>into a hard finish. Handy tip for turners, I think...
>
>Michael Dresdner
>Finishing Consultant
>3303 28th St. SE
>Puyallup, WA, 98374
>http://www.michaeldresdner.com
>
>
>
Fred Holder
<http://www.fholder.com/>
How do you apply this mix which hardens so quickly?
Dee
Michael Dresdner wrote:
>
> Just go for convenience and durability, since virtually all common finishes
> are food safe once they are cured.
>
> I would choose either a good oil based polyurethane or simply use a drying
> oil. Drying oils, which form a film by reacting with oxygen, are oils
> derived from nuts -- such as linseed oil, tung oil, walnut oil, etc. Mineral
> and vegetable oils do not dry, and vegetable oils go rancid. Incidentally,
> peanut oil is not a drying oil, and for good reason -- peanuts are not nuts,
> they are legumes.
>
> For the record, my favorite high gloss knife handle is one I made of pau
> ferro and finished with linseed oil crosslinked with cyanoacrylate. The
> coating is hard, glossy, dishwasher safe, and cures in about 3 seconds per
> coat. Cyanoacrylate adhesive will cause linseed oil to crosslink immediately
> into a hard finish. Handy tip for turners, I think...
>
> Michael Dresdner
> Finishing Consultant
> 3303 28th St. SE
> Puyallup, WA, 98374
> http://www.michaeldresdner.com
--
Dee Smith
PIT, Packaging and Integration Testing
IBM Austin, Tx
Hi Michael...I was always under the impression that real TUNG oil is a
product of the ROOTS of a tree which grows in China (the true name of that
tree escapes me at the moment), as opposed to being derived from a nut.
Perhaps you can enlighten me about this...and others as well.