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tom koehler
Feb 15, 2012, 11:13:39 PM2/15/12
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I have been experimenting with my Beall Buffs, and experimenting with some
hardwoods that I got for Christmas, and some softwood that I salvaged from a
demolition house.
The buffs do just a splendid job of letting the shine come up, if the wood is
smooth enough. I have been sanding to 400 grit, and then buffing. Softwoods
are more subtle than the hardwoods, but oh, my! The caranauba wax is a very
hard wax and takes a bit of speed and pressure to get it to fuse into the
wood... gotta watch it, and let the project tell you what it likes. One big
lesson, though... maybe a layer of shellac under the wax is not such a pretty
good idea. Shellac responds to the warmth generated by the buffs and tends to
smear. I tried working at a much lower speed and then things worked pretty
good, but still gotta watch for smearing. I used the shellac in the first
place because the piece I was working on was fairly porous and shellac has
always been my friend with sanding and low speed polishing methods. Shellac
is not indicated when finishing with a buffing process like the Beall buffs.
I got a few pieces of hardwood from my wife and some more pieces from a close
family friend. I finally got around to making up a segmented bowl with
several different flavors in it, and then seeing what was in there.
Padauk is a nice red/orange color and a little soft, easy to chip on the end
grain. Cherry is nearly white with a suggestion of rose color, harder than
padauk and does not seem to chip across the end grain. Oak is fairly porous
and hard, has a tendency to chip across end grain, and has some interesting
light effects in the "rays" in the grain. Walnut is lovely stuff and seems to
be about the same hardness under the chisel as oak, harder than cherry, and
did not make me cuss. Wenge is very dark brown, very hard and wants very fine
cuts to keep from chipping out across the end grain. It will tell you if your
edge is not as sharp as it should be. It sure does polish up pretty, though,
and worth any extra effort it takes!
I will post some pictures of this bowl on flickr in the next day or so, and
will notify you on this thread.
The softwoods harvested from the demo house were some bits of cedar post that
had been buried in the clay ground here for the past 100 years, and some
pieces of old growth fir from one of the timbers under the house. They had
some very nice pleasing color and buffed up to a pleasing soft sheen.
Pictures forthcoming on flickr as well.
I think my skills are improving and you folks have been my guide and
inspiration. Thanks.
tom koehler
--
I will find a way or make one.
hardwoods that I got for Christmas, and some softwood that I salvaged from a
demolition house.
The buffs do just a splendid job of letting the shine come up, if the wood is
smooth enough. I have been sanding to 400 grit, and then buffing. Softwoods
are more subtle than the hardwoods, but oh, my! The caranauba wax is a very
hard wax and takes a bit of speed and pressure to get it to fuse into the
wood... gotta watch it, and let the project tell you what it likes. One big
lesson, though... maybe a layer of shellac under the wax is not such a pretty
good idea. Shellac responds to the warmth generated by the buffs and tends to
smear. I tried working at a much lower speed and then things worked pretty
good, but still gotta watch for smearing. I used the shellac in the first
place because the piece I was working on was fairly porous and shellac has
always been my friend with sanding and low speed polishing methods. Shellac
is not indicated when finishing with a buffing process like the Beall buffs.
I got a few pieces of hardwood from my wife and some more pieces from a close
family friend. I finally got around to making up a segmented bowl with
several different flavors in it, and then seeing what was in there.
Padauk is a nice red/orange color and a little soft, easy to chip on the end
grain. Cherry is nearly white with a suggestion of rose color, harder than
padauk and does not seem to chip across the end grain. Oak is fairly porous
and hard, has a tendency to chip across end grain, and has some interesting
light effects in the "rays" in the grain. Walnut is lovely stuff and seems to
be about the same hardness under the chisel as oak, harder than cherry, and
did not make me cuss. Wenge is very dark brown, very hard and wants very fine
cuts to keep from chipping out across the end grain. It will tell you if your
edge is not as sharp as it should be. It sure does polish up pretty, though,
and worth any extra effort it takes!
I will post some pictures of this bowl on flickr in the next day or so, and
will notify you on this thread.
The softwoods harvested from the demo house were some bits of cedar post that
had been buried in the clay ground here for the past 100 years, and some
pieces of old growth fir from one of the timbers under the house. They had
some very nice pleasing color and buffed up to a pleasing soft sheen.
Pictures forthcoming on flickr as well.
I think my skills are improving and you folks have been my guide and
inspiration. Thanks.
tom koehler
--
I will find a way or make one.
tom koehler
Feb 16, 2012, 3:33:36 PM2/16/12
to
On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 22:13:39 -0600, tom koehler wrote
(in message <0001HW.CB61DE93...@news.frontiernet.net>):
> > I will post some pictures of this bowl on flickr in the next day or so, and
> will notify you on this thread.
>
>
go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/55616gandy/sets/72157628813701215/
the newest additions to the collection of pictures are at the bottom - this
project is the 6-wood bowl
tom
(in message <0001HW.CB61DE93...@news.frontiernet.net>):
> > I will post some pictures of this bowl on flickr in the next day or so, and
> will notify you on this thread.
>
>
the newest additions to the collection of pictures are at the bottom - this
project is the 6-wood bowl
tom
Mac Davis
Mar 3, 2012, 2:14:14 AM3/3/12
to
On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 22:13:39 -0600, tom koehler
<tvnospa...@nospamfrontiernet.netinvalid> wrote:
Hey Tom!
I use the beall system for all my stuff.. Hardwoods buff fine with
320 or 400 grit sanding..
NO shellac..lol
If you raed the instructions (RTFM) they suggest a coat or 2 of Danish
Oil on soft woods..
One coat of natural DO and you're buffing harder wood (when properly
cured), 2 coats and you're actually buffing the DO, which is fine..
I'm on my 2nd set of 8" wheels and have been VERY happy with them..
I have all 3 sizes of the bowl buffs and try to avoid using any but
the large ( 2" ? ) Size.. I just can't get a real buffed look or feel
with them..
Have fun with them...
OH, remember that speed is preferrable to excess pressure, but it is
friction that causes all of the nice buffing..
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