wax and boiled linseed oil??
powerm...@cox.net
think) and boiled linseed oil as a finish. I just got a shipment of
carnuba and wanted to try different types of finishes usung it . does
any one have a copy of the post that you could send me either here or
via e-mail?
TIA
maker of fine exotic toothpick from tall trees
jduprie
mineral spirits in equal parts, then dump in the amount of wax I want (lots
for paste wax, less for liquid wax). Carnuba usually needs some gentle
warming to go into solution. Once the mix is made and the wax is
melted/disolved, just put it on, let sit for a few minutes, and wipe off.
Repeat as needed...
--JD
<powerm...@cox.net> wrote in message
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AHilton
carnauba wax (dries fast thus can leave streaks if using it on bigger
diameter pieces) to adding a little solvent (mineral spirits, terpentine,
toluene in order of decreasing drying time) in whatever ratio's you want and
even adding some oils like boiled linseed oil (traditional, nice warm finish
to most woods), walnut oil, Tung Oil (personal favorite) or even other waxes
like beeswax (softer, mellow feel), candelilla, or paraffin (slick, shiny).
The additions are about unlimited. What I mentioned above is just a small
start! Throw some stuff together, gently, slowly, carefully, and try it
out.
Here's a simple recipe to get you started...
1 part Carnauba wax
1 part boiled linseed oil
2 parts solvent (use less for harder cream/paste)
Put wax into glass jar (flaked or crumbled up to melt faster) and put that
into a pan of water. The water just needs to be high enough to cover the
expected height of the melted wax but not enough to float the glass jar
inside. Heat the pan of water (giving you a double boiler arrangement ...
NEVER heat this stuff straight from flame or element). Wait a bit for the
wax to melt. Turn off heat (!) and then add, slowly, the boiled linseed oil
while stirring. Wait a bit for the wax/oil combo to cool slightly (but not
to harden up so you can't stir it) and then add the solvent as you stir
gently. Cap tightly. Stir or swirl occasionally as it cools.
This will get you a nice mixture. What's nice about this procedure is that
if the mixture is too soft, for example, for your application method then
just return the entire jar (cap OFF !) to the double boiler arrangement,
heat gently again and add more Carnauba wax. If too hard, then just add
solvent.
Have fun but be safe,
- Andrew
<powerm...@cox.net> wrote in message
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Paul Judkins
I have experimented with several recipies of wax and solvents with
varying results. The blend that I finally liked best was simply
combining 1 part carnuba with 9 parts of beeswax. I put them in a
microwave (the one in the shop of course, because my wife puts red
marks on my forehead if I use the one in the kitchen) and melt them.
Once melted, stir them together and pour in a mold. I used the top of
a glass butter dish (earned another red mark for that one) to make the
stick. The stick has the advantage of never changing consistency from
solvent evaporation, does not require the use of any hazardous
materials and is very handy to use. On a new turning, I apply a very
generous coat of Watco Danish Oil, allow it to soak in for about five
minutes or so, then wipe with a cloth to remove the excess. At point
I use the wax stick to apply finish as lightly or as heavy as I want
while the piece rotates on the lathe. It is very easy to control the
amount applied. Once you are done, just throw it back in the drawer
until next time. The beeswax is an excellent vehicle to carry the
carnuba and combination of waxes produces a beautiful finish. At least
I like it and you can't beat the convenience. Oh yeah, the red marks
did finally go away too!
Paul Judkins
One Good Turn
www.1goodturn.net
Steve Tiedman
home brews. These two are Sam Maloof's recipes he gives in his book:
From the book "Sam Maloof, Woodworker", by Sam Maloof, page 67-68:
1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 pure tung oil, 1/3 semi gloss polyurethane
varnish.
Apply one coat each day for 3 days (wipe on, wipe off).
And to follow that, as an option if you'd like, is his recipe for a
product he
uses after applying the first recipe routine. 1/2 boiled linseed oil,
1/2 pure
tung oil, and then add in 2 handfuls (he does not say if that is using
only one
hand, or both hands cupped together per "handful", I'd say start with
single
handfuls and add from there) of shredded beeswax. OUTSIDE of any
buildings,
using a double boiler or electric hotplate, heat the mix until the wax
melts;
the wax and oil are compatible and will mix easily. He says add shredded
wax
until you have something the consistency of heavy cream. Once mixed, it
does
not have to be re-heated. Again, he applies 3 coats, wipe on, rub off
thoroughly and vigorously so the friction heat helps absorption a bit.
Personal note- because of the metallic dryers in the boiled linseed oil,
and the
solvents in the varnish, wear some sort of rubber gloves when applying,
even
though Maloof does this with his bare hands. And be cautious of the oil
soaked
rags and spontaneous combustion!
>From another great book, "Understanding Wood Finishing", by Bob Flexner,
always
allow *any* oil based finish at least 30 days for absolute curing. I
learned
that with a bookcase. Get this book.
Personally, I've played with a pure tung oil/varnish/mineral spirits
recipe
quite a bit with lathe turnings. Start with equal parts of each, the
thinner
just makes wiping easier. More oil and less varnish in the first coat(s)
gives
better penetration. More varnish and less oil in the last coat(s) give
more
surface build if desired.
That is the nice thing about oils, varnishes (oil based), waxes, and
thinners
such as mineral spirits, naphtha, and pure gum turpentine, they are all
readily
compatible with each other and can be mixed in whatever ratios your
heart, and
project requirements, desire.
Hope this helps,
Steve.
--
Steve Tiedman
s...@mninter.net
Minnesota, USA
Visit http://www.mninter.net/~stiedman/
------
powerm...@cox.net
the "Red Marks" is the process of earning them a step I can skip and
still have good results? I am very allergic to pain is the only
reason I ask.........hhhhhhhhmmmmmmm wonder if I can convince the
kid it is a science experiment........might be worth a try.......lol
In reality my wife makes soaps , lotions, candles etc and
imports almost everything needed for me to make a "personal " finish.
I am grateful to all who have answered the questions I have asked..
On 12 Nov 2002 20:30:46 -0800, paul.j...@1goodturn.net (Paul
georgetroy
My suggestion is to stick with Urethane oil for a finish coat, then
after it hardens for a few days apply your Carnuba wax and buff. You
will find Urethane Oil at Craft Supplies or Woodcraft. I will take
Deft Clear Wood finish lacquer (semi gloss) and dilute with lacquer
thinner and use sometimes as a sealer. The Urethane oil is compatible.
Urethane Oil is safe for food after it dries and is almost fool proof
to use. I was shown this finish by Rude Osolnik fifteen years ago and
have found none better. Everytime I try something different just to
compare it doesn't. I do not think heating your finishes is safe.
Urethane Oil is great for wet sanding and does not bleed like Watco.
Waterlox is not very good for wet sanding and the pot life could be
better. Bloxygen will work with Waterlox, but with Urethane Oil it is
not necessary. George Troy Hurlburt
http://www.georgetroygraphics.com