bandsaw blade guides
Norman Law
I am looking for a material that i can make my own blade guides from i
have a large bandsaw that i use to make turning blanks from short lengths
of green timber
Thanks
Norman Law.
mroegnermindspring.com
Norman -
My favorite blade guides were made by taking a very well-dried
piece of lignum vitae, microwaving it a bit to get it warm (but not
too hot) then soaking it in a dish of mineral oil overnight. Cut the
pieces to size before the heating/soaking, as the mineral oil doesn't
seem to penetrate more than about 1/8" or so. You can adjust these
blocks to be in direct contact with the blade at all times, and I
usually push mine into contact firmly enough that the blade is
"pinched" in between two faces. Cut the blocks wide enough that the
entire blade can be sandwiched between the blocks. The teeth will
actually carve out their own little "groove" in the blocks. Take it
easy on them just after installing, and add a few drops of mineral oil
to them and the blade during the first few minutes until the blade and
blocks achieve a good "fit". I've found these to be easy and cheap
to make, and have given me better results than the "cool blocks" that
are so popular today. Re-oil the blocks occasionally with a few drops
of mineral oil.
Michael
On 8 Feb 98 10:12:26 GMT, "Norman Law" <nl...@woodturner.nwnet.co.uk>
wrote:
Fred Holder
In article <01bd347b$00f63880$6635bcc3@default>, "Norman says...
>
>I am looking for a material that i can make my own blade guides from i
>have a large bandsaw that i use to make turning blanks from short lengths
>of green timber
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Norman Law.
Hello Norman,
I used chunks of brass rod for a couple of years. Here lately, I've been trying
lignum viate squares. I just used them as is, but I believe the quote that I got
the idea from said to soak it in mineral oil for a day or two. Both the brass
and the lignum viate seem to work pretty well. I use the weld area as the
adjustment point and just shove them in until they touch the blade. The brass
would likely be better, if you had square stuff. I was using round 1/2" rod and
on small blades it didn't have much support. With the lignum viate on small
blades, I simply enclose the entire blade. Gives excellent support. May not be
applicable for your large bandsaw. I only have a 14" Grizzly.
Fred Holder
<http://www.skagit.com/woodturning>
Fred Holder
There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers sometimes. Lignum viate is a
very hard wood from South America, I believe. It has long been used for
propeller shaft bearings that are submerged in water because they are sort of
self lubricating. I generally get mine from Woodcraft "Back of the Rack" sale
paper that comes out periodically. It is extremely heavy and extremely hard. It
saws fine on a bandsaw and turns well with sharp scrapers or hardwood turning
tools. It was used many years ago to make the bowls for the lawn bowls game. I
think they are mostly made from man made material today. It is heavier than
water and will sink like a rock.
Hope this helps clear up your question.
Fred Holder
<http://www.skagit.com/woodturning>
In article <34dfc50f....@news.mindspring.com>, says...
>
>This may be a stupid question, but what is "lignum viate"? And where
>do you find it? thnx....
Unknown
Owen Lawrence
mroegnerMichael Roegner <atmindspring.com> wrote in article
<34deccc9...@news.mindspring.com>...
> Norman -
> My favorite blade guides were made by taking a very well-dried
> piece of lignum vitae, microwaving it a bit to get it warm (but not
> too hot) then soaking it in a dish of mineral oil overnight. Cut the
> pieces to size before the heating/soaking, as the mineral oil doesn't
> seem to penetrate more than about 1/8" or so. You can adjust these
> blocks to be in direct contact with the blade at all times, and I
> usually push mine into contact firmly enough that the blade is
> "pinched" in between two faces. Cut the blocks wide enough that the
> entire blade can be sandwiched between the blocks. The teeth will
> actually carve out their own little "groove" in the blocks. Take it
> easy on them just after installing, and add a few drops of mineral oil
> to them and the blade during the first few minutes until the blade and
> blocks achieve a good "fit". I've found these to be easy and cheap
> to make, and have given me better results than the "cool blocks" that
> are so popular today. Re-oil the blocks occasionally with a few drops
> of mineral oil.
>
>
> Michael
>
> On 8 Feb 98 10:12:26 GMT, "Norman Law" <nl...@woodturner.nwnet.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
> >have a large bandsaw that i use to make turning blanks from short
lengths
> >of green timber
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Norman Law.
>
>
home made bandsaw, made by my far away uncle, who is a master at getting
things to work. His blade guides were actually little blocks of steel with
a slot cut just the right size for the blade. But now I've gone and
installed a blade with a narrower width and the blade wants to sink back
into the slot and jam because of the set of the teeth. Obviously I lack
his skill so I'm asking for your advice. This bandsaw is big, and has been
in the family for over thirty years. It was around when I was a kid and
has a lot to do with why I enjoy woodworking now. I want to keep it in
working order to pass on to my son, too, someday.
The thing is, everything about my bandsaw is home made, so there are no
standard components to which I can refer. So if someone can tell me what
the really critical adjustments are, I'd appreciate it. I also don't have
any lignum vitae, but do have lots of hard maple. Would that be good
enough or should I go get some of this special wood? I realize I've left a
lot unclear, but I can be more specific later if someone wants to help me
out. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
- Owen -
Pat Thaler Bill Thomas Jared Thaler Leor Thomas Avi Thomas
Greetings,
My experience cutting turning blanks (i.e. more than 6 inches thick)
suggests that if the guides do any guiding, then the blade will have
wandered so far inside the cut that you cannot control the cut.
If I have a good blade (e.g. Suffolk) and properly adjust the bandsaw,
the blade does not wander and the guides do nothing.
What do others have to say about this for cutting turning blanks?
Sincerely,
Bill Thomas
ARI...@webtv.net
In article <01bd347b$00f63880$6635bcc3@default>,
"Norman Law" <nl...@woodturner.nwnet.co.uk> wrote:
>
> I am looking for a material that i can make my own blade guides from i
> have a large bandsaw that i use to make turning blanks from short lengths
> of green timber
>
> Thanks
>
> Norman Law.
Try maple. Instead of mineral oil let them soak in liquid parafin for a
few days. Works great, it's also cheap and easy. A51
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Post to Usenet
Lorne Gushulak
In article <01bd35c5$d6f43540$079c...@puker.iosphere.net>, "Owen
Lawrence" <ow...@iosphere.net> wrote:
> What a timely post! Lately I'm struggling with the blade guides on my
> home made bandsaw, made by my far away uncle, who is a master at getting
> things to work. His blade guides were actually little blocks of steel with
> a slot cut just the right size for the blade. But now I've gone and
> installed a blade with a narrower width and the blade wants to sink back
> into the slot and jam because of the set of the teeth. Obviously I lack
> his skill so I'm asking for your advice. This bandsaw is big, and has been
> in the family for over thirty years. It was around when I was a kid and
> has a lot to do with why I enjoy woodworking now. I want to keep it in
> working order to pass on to my son, too, someday.
nce for any suggestions.
>
> - Owen -
If you decide to stay with the steel blocks then just get a new block or a
new face of the old block and cut a slot in it with a hacksaw blade. The
slot should be only just deep enough for the blade to fit down into until
the teeth almost start to contact. Then adjust your back bearing to bring
the blade just slightly forward of the slot. Run this by hand first to
make sure that the joint in the blade does not catch. Then run the saw,
after a bit touch the block, if it s really hot make the slot a bit wider
with a narrow file.
:{) Lorne
mroegnermindspring.com
I can't recommend using liquid paraffin. The issue here is that
liquid paraffin will vaporize, then flash ignite, under heavy friction
loads. That kind of flash, coupled with a fair amount of fine dust in
the air from heavy bandsawing (resawing, for example), could easily
result in a very unsatisfactory "BOOM!" noise. You may well wake
up in a different zip code and/or time zone.
Michael
Butch Titus
ica...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
> I did a similar thing, except with much cheaper and more common maple.
>
> I first cut chunks of maple to fit the guides (made them a bit long
> for wear). I took paraffin shavings, some wood wax (Butcher's Wax),
> mineral spirits and some mineral oil. I heated this in a can, which
> itself was immersed in boiling water. Add the two together, let sit
> for a week, and let "dry" for a day or two. The mineral spirits
> evaporate leaving wax impregnated maple. The blocks are completely
> treated all the way through. They don't leave residue, they don't
> burn, and the blade is nice and shiny-clean (not worn shiny).
>
> Try it, it's a lot cheaper than cool blocks.
>
> Jeff
>
> (snip)Received word today that the scheduled demo by Mr. Al Stirt in Ft. Worth
TX on March 7, 1998 has been re-scheduled to May. Mr. Gary Sanders,
President of the Woodturners of North Texas relayed this info to me.
Butch
ica...@ix.netcom.com
I did a similar thing, except with much cheaper and more common maple.
I first cut chunks of maple to fit the guides (made them a bit long
for wear). I took paraffin shavings, some wood wax (Butcher's Wax),
mineral spirits and some mineral oil. I heated this in a can, which
itself was immersed in boiling water. Add the two together, let sit
for a week, and let "dry" for a day or two. The mineral spirits
evaporate leaving wax impregnated maple. The blocks are completely
treated all the way through. They don't leave residue, they don't
burn, and the blade is nice and shiny-clean (not worn shiny).
Try it, it's a lot cheaper than cool blocks.
Jeff
(snip)
>mroegnerMichael Roegner <atmindspring.com> wrote in article
Owen Lawrence
> > What a timely post! Lately I'm struggling with the blade guides on
my
> > home made bandsaw, made by my far away uncle, who is a master at
getting
> > things to work. His blade guides were actually little blocks of steel
with
> > a slot cut just the right size for the blade. But now I've gone and
> > - Owen -
>
> If you decide to stay with the steel blocks then just get a new block or
a
> new face of the old block and cut a slot in it with a hacksaw blade. The
> slot should be only just deep enough for the blade to fit down into until
> the teeth almost start to contact. Then adjust your back bearing to bring
> the blade just slightly forward of the slot. Run this by hand first to
Ahah! You assume incorrectly I have a back bearing to adjust (and neither
does my bandsaw :)). Unfortunately these little blocks are too small to
cut another slot. I would have to make new ones.
After following some of the postings on this thread, I think I'll try some
maple blocks (raw--no paraffin) and see how it works out. What about using
some graphite dust as a lubricant? Is a lubricant even necessary? Thanks.
- Owen -
Lorne Gushulak
In article <01bd3768$7f6517a0$069c...@puker.iosphere.net>, "Owen
Lawrence" <ow...@iosphere.net> wrote:
> After following some of the postings on this thread, I think
I'll try some
> maple blocks (raw--no paraffin) and see how it works out. What about using
> some graphite dust as a lubricant? Is a lubricant even necessary? Thanks.
>
> - Owen -
Any way of adding a back bearing? These do work really well.
And stay away fron the graphite, unless you want to spend an awful lot of
time sanding it off your work pieces.
:{) Lorne
Russ Ellsworth
Check out;
http://www.ronan.net/~woodwork/lathe.html#3
I bought his bandsaw blade guides for a Grizzly 16 inch BS...the
original model. Had many problems with the original square block guides
but these from Montana have bearings for all surfaces...the price is
right and my not very good saw now works well enough that I don't dread
cutting with 1/4 inch bldes in either wood or metal. YMMV
Russ Ellsworth, Boise
Greg Kulibert
I have the problem with blade wander you describe below. (the blade twists as
you cut around the blank and wanders towards the pivot point of the blank) I
don't understand how to correct this from your post. I'm using a 3/8" suffolk
blade. I can resaw 1/16" by 10 inches thick with no problem but have trouble
spinning a bowl blank around on a pivot.
Any suggestions??
Pat Thaler Bill Thomas Jared Thaler Leor Thomas Avi Thomas wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> My experience cutting turning blanks (i.e. more than 6 inches thick)
> suggests that if the guides do any guiding, then the blade will have
> wandered so far inside the cut that you cannot control the cut.
> If I have a good blade (e.g. Suffolk) and properly adjust the bandsaw,
> the blade does not wander and the guides do nothing.
>
> What do others have to say about this for cutting turning blanks?
>
> Sincerely,
> Bill Thomas
>
Pat Thaler Bill Thomas Jared Thaler Leor Thomas Avi Thomas
Greetings,
My experience matches yours.
I have not had success spinning anything thicker than 3/4 inches abput a point.
For bowl blanks, I draw a circle on the timber and guide the timber by hand.
The tables for the smallest circle for a given blade width, suggest a much
smaller circle than I can get when cutting bowl blanks.
If the blade has any problems such as dullness, I can't use it for bowl blanks.
With a sharp blade, the blade does not touch the guides unless it starts cutting
in a direction other than straight down. When the blade touches a guide,
I usually have pushed too hard. I lighten up on the timber and let the blade
straighten itself out. Sometimes the blade takes a few seconds to cut side
ways.
I think the guides work only for thin wood and to keep the blades on the
wheels when something goes wrong.
Sincerely,
Bill Thomas
Greg Kulibert (kuli...@execpc.com) wrote:
: I have the problem with blade wander you describe below. (the blade twists as
John Jordan
Greg Kulibert <kuli...@execpc.com> wrote:
>I have the problem with blade wander you describe below. (the blade twists as
>you cut around the blank and wanders towards the pivot point of the blank) I
>don't understand how to correct this from your post. I'm using a 3/8" suffolk
>blade. I can resaw 1/16" by 10 inches thick with no problem but have trouble
>spinning a bowl blank around on a pivot.
>Any suggestions??
>
>
>Pat Thaler Bill Thomas Jared Thaler Leor Thomas Avi Thomas wrote:
>
>> Greetings,
>>
>> My experience cutting turning blanks (i.e. more than 6 inches thick)
>> suggests that if the guides do any guiding, then the blade will have
>> wandered so far inside the cut that you cannot control the cut.
>> If I have a good blade (e.g. Suffolk) and properly adjust the bandsaw,
>> the blade does not wander and the guides do nothing.
>>
>> What do others have to say about this for cutting turning blanks?
>>
>> Sincerely,
>> Bill Thomas
>
Try Cutting the blank square, then sawing off the corners. Your blade,
no matter how well supported will last much longer and it's easy to
true up the hex shaped blank.
John Jordan
Kenneth Moon
The graphite powder is an excellent lubricant, but you may want to try
rubbing on the wood type that you'll be using to see if it stains. That
stuff goes EVERYWHERE.
--
Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.
Owen Lawrence <ow...@iosphere.net> wrote in article
<01bd3768$7f6517a0$069c...@puker.iosphere.net>...
Dee Smith
Pat Thaler Bill Thomas Jared Thaler Leor Thomas Avi Thomas wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> I have not had success spinning anything thicker than 3/4 inches abput a point.
> For bowl blanks, I draw a circle on the timber and guide the timber by hand.
> The tables for the smallest circle for a given blade width, suggest a much
> smaller circle than I can get when cutting bowl blanks.
>
> If the blade has any problems such as dullness, I can't use it for bowl blanks.
> With a sharp blade, the blade does not touch the guides unless it starts cutting
> in a direction other than straight down. When the blade touches a guide,
> I usually have pushed too hard. I lighten up on the timber and let the blade
> straighten itself out. Sometimes the blade takes a few seconds to cut side
> ways.
>
> I think the guides work only for thin wood and to keep the blades on the
> wheels when something goes wrong.
>
> Sincerely,
> Bill Thomas
to inadverdently moving the pivot point relative to the blade.
A circle cutting jig in which you pivot on a fixed point
may solve it.
Dee
>
> Greg Kulibert (kuli...@execpc.com) wrote:
> : I have the problem with blade wander you describe below. (the blade twists as
> : you cut around the blank and wanders towards the pivot point of the blank) I
> : don't understand how to correct this from your post. I'm using a 3/8" suffolk
> : blade. I can resaw 1/16" by 10 inches thick with no problem but have trouble
> : spinning a bowl blank around on a pivot.
> : Any suggestions??
>
> : Pat Thaler Bill Thomas Jared Thaler Leor Thomas Avi Thomas wrote:
>
> : > Greetings,
> : >
> : > My experience cutting turning blanks (i.e. more than 6 inches thick)
> : > suggests that if the guides do any guiding, then the blade will have
> : > wandered so far inside the cut that you cannot control the cut.
> : > If I have a good blade (e.g. Suffolk) and properly adjust the bandsaw,
> : > the blade does not wander and the guides do nothing.
> : >
> : > What do others have to say about this for cutting turning blanks?
> : >
> : > Sincerely,
> : > Bill Thomas
> : >
> : > Norman Law (nl...@woodturner.nwnet.co.uk) wrote:
> : > : I am looking for a material that i can make my own blade guides from i
> : > : have a large bandsaw that i use to make turning blanks from short lengths
> : > : of green timber
> : >
> : > : Thanks
> : >
> : > : Norman Law.
--
Dee Smith
Software Server Integration Test
IBM Austin, Tx
Lorne Gushulak
> I have the problem with blade wander you describe below. (the blade twists as
> you cut around the blank and wanders towards the pivot point of the blank) I
> don't understand how to correct this from your post. I'm using a 3/8" suffolk
> blade. I can resaw 1/16" by 10 inches thick with no problem but have trouble
> spinning a bowl blank around on a pivot.
> Any suggestions??
In order to saw a circle and keep the blade turning the bend at the same
the pivot point of the bowl blank must be at the tip edge of the teeth and
90 degrees to the side. If the point lags behind or ahead the blade will
pull out of alignment. Make sure also that your table is 90 degrees flat
to the blade.If this is still not clear, e-mail me and I will explain
further.
:{) Lorne
Fred Holder
There is a pretty good chance that you would solve your blade wander problem by
switching to a 1/4" blade. A 3/8" blade may be too wide for the radius of the
circle you are cutting. A 1/4" blade cuts out round blanks much better than a
3/8" blade. I would recommend that you try just knocking off the corners as John
Jordan recommends.
Fred Holder
<http://www.skagit.com/woodturning>
In article <6bvufl$m...@newsops.execpc.com>, Greg says...
>
>I have the problem with blade wander you describe below. (the blade twists as
>you cut around the blank and wanders towards the pivot point of the blank) I
>don't understand how to correct this from your post. I'm using a 3/8" suffolk
>blade. I can resaw 1/16" by 10 inches thick with no problem but have trouble
>spinning a bowl blank around on a pivot.
>Any suggestions??
>
>
ch...@webtv.net
In article <34e3f00d....@news.mindspring.com>,
mroegner<at>mindspring.com (Michael Roegner) wrote:
>
> I can't recommend using liquid paraffin. The issue here is that
> liquid paraffin will vaporize, then flash ignite, under heavy friction
> loads. That kind of flash, coupled with a fair amount of fine dust in
> the air from heavy bandsawing (resawing, for example), could easily
> result in a very unsatisfactory "BOOM!" noise. You may well wake
> up in a different zip code and/or time zone.
>
> Michael
>
Paraffin isn't as explosive as that can of WD40 sitting on the shelf.
Actually, you'd have to generate enough heat to ignite the wooden blocks,
then the paraffin MIGHT ignite, or at least feed the fire. In any case, if
you're generating that much heat, you've got bigger problems than a couple of
cubic inches of wood in liquid candle wax. CH
> On Tue, 10 Feb 1998 07:01:12 -0600, ARI...@webtv.net wrote:
> > Try maple. Instead of mineral oil let them soak in liquid parafin for a
> >few days. Works great, it's also cheap and easy. A51
> >
> >-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
> > http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Post to Usenet
>
>
-----== Posted via Deja News, The Leader in Internet Discussion ==-----
http://www.dejanews.com/ Now offering spam-free web-based newsreading
ch...@webtv.net
mroegnermindspring.com
Time for a wake up call - not only is your information totally wrong,
it's downright dangerous. Paraffin WILL ignite at quite a bit lower
temperature than many hardwoods, and more importantly will vaporize at
significantly lower temperatures than that. Couple this with the
relevant facts that 1) You're putting this material on a surface that
is DESIGNED to sustain high levels of friction, and 2) You're talking
about working in an environment that DEFINES the concept of fine,
airborne, combustable dust. Ever resaw a dense hardwood like teak on
a bandsaw? Remember that fine cloud of airborne dust? Ever read
about a "dust explosion" in a grain silo? It doesn't pay to take
foolish chances. I use paraffin regularly for finishing, or for
protecting surfaces where it makes sense - I don't use it where it
isn't appropriate.
By the way - that can of WD40? In the can it isn't a big
problem - neither is the paraffin. Spray a bit cloud of either into
the air and add a spark, however, and I'd just as soon be a few
hundred yards away.
Michael
Dave Mundt
Greetings and Salutations from the Dweller In the Citystate of the
Vincible Overlord...
Could it be that this is a cultural difference biting us on the
ass?
I assumed by this that the "liquid paraffin" meant was melted
wax... But then, I live in AMERICA... I know that in England, this
would be what we call Kerosine...
While a useful solvent and fuel, I dont think it would work worth
squat for lubricating bandsaw guide blocks...
Regards
Dave Mundt
Howard Klepper
> > you cut around the blank and wanders towards the pivot point of the blank) I
> > don't understand how to correct this from your post. I'm using a 3/8" suffolk
> > blade. I can resaw 1/16" by 10 inches thick with no problem but have trouble
> > spinning a bowl blank around on a pivot.
> > Any suggestions??
>
> the pivot point of the bowl blank must be at the tip edge of the teeth and
> 90 degrees to the side. If the point lags behind or ahead the blade will
> pull out of alignment. Make sure also that your table is 90 degrees flat
> to the blade.If this is still not clear, e-mail me and I will explain
> further.
>
> :{) Lorne
Besides alignment to the cutting edge of the blade being critical, as
Lorne points out (clearly), using a circle jig you have the problem of
blade lead, which varies with the type of wood, its thickness, and its
grain alignment (which is of course going to vary all the way around the
cut). Bottom line is you can cut any curve more accurately by careful
hand-and-eye feeding than you can with a jig.