Signing wood bowls
GeneBueh
turning and before finishing the piece? Gene Bue
Buddy Matlosz
think) also has these with silver and gold ink for darker and lighter woods,
respectively. Reasonably priced, if I recall.
Buddy
"GeneBueh" <gene...@aol.com> wrote in message
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Juergen
various colors and point widths. I've been using for years to write on
CD disks. I recommend you write on your project after you wax it, that
way the solvents in the wax do not streak the ink. The pen is also
refillable.
On page 29 of the Winter 2000 American Woodturner Peter Smith suggested,
creating a logo or signature on the computer; mirroring the image before
printing it out on a laser printer. Then you iron it on to your
masterpiece. The heat will hopefully melt the toner onto your work. I
haven't tried it yet but if it works it's a lot cheaper than a $100
custom branding iron. Also, you can change the label for every piece to
include such information as the date, wood type, and series # if you're
lucky enough to sell lots of your work.
Juergen
Colorado Spring, CO
In article <20001208141424...@ng-fd1.aol.com>,
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Will Simpson
varying success. It all depends on the wood. With some woods the ink really
bleeds. Some woods have too much oil in them and the pen "skips". So some
times I will sign a piece and sand or cut off that part just to see how that
particular wood reacts to ink before I'm committed to the finished piece.
What I've started doing now is signing in pencil and then using a highspeed
carver to trace my signature. Sometimes I will fill in the signature with
ink to make it stand out more.
I'd love to hear what others are doing. I think a classy looking signature
really added to a piece.
Hope this helps
--
Will Simpson
Kestrel Creek Gallery
Exploring the Potential of Wood Turned Art
http://www.kestrelcreek.com
GeneBueh <gene...@aol.com> wrote in message
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Robert Church
initials) with the year. "RjC '00" is what hits the bottoms of my work.
-Rob
"Will Simpson" <wsim...@idaho.tds.net> wrote in message
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Fred Holder
I use a Sharpie Permanent Marker with an Ultra Fine Point. Be sure to apply to
the wood before the finish since it doesn't write as well on finish as it does
on bare wood. On darker woods like black walnut, ebony, etc. I use a DecoColor
Opaque Paint Marker in Liquid Silver. This last one will write over most dry
finishes.
Fred Holder, Camano Island, Washington USA
<http://www.fholder.com/>
In article <20001208141424...@ng-fd1.aol.com>, gene...@aol.com
says...
>
>What is the best ink pen to use for signing name on bottom of wood bowls after
>turning and before finishing the piece? Gene Bue
Fred Holder
<http://www.fholder.com/>
Jim Gott
What is the best ink pen to use for signing name on bottom of wood bowls after
turning and before finishing the piece? Gene Bue >>
I use a Pilot ultra fine point permanent marker for most pieces, and it's the
last thing done-after all the finish is on. I don't wax the bottom, so the wax
doesn't interfere with the ink. I've used it on salad bowls that I use
regularly,and the signature is still intact after many washings. The ink is
permanent so it doesn't have to have finish on top of it to protect it. That's
why I put it on after the finish.
For dark woods, I use a Gelly Roll gold medium tip rolling marker that I found
in a craft store. I've also seen them in stationery stores. The gold ink shows
up wonderfully against dark woods like walnut, cocobolo, ebony, etc. They also
come in silver and other colors.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA
James Gaydos
special tip that is used for signatures. I sign the piece after it is
finished.
James Gaydos
Ephrata,Pennsylvania ( Lancaster,Co. )
AAW --
The South Central Pa Turners
Bill Day
Since my wife does woodburning, I have begun signing a lot of my stuff
that way, sometimes tracing the lines with Pilot pen afterwards..no
one technique works on every wood, so I am glad to see all these
ideas, and will try some of those colored inks mentioned. (I also try
not to wax the bottoms of pieces).....Some woods have a grain pattern
that makes woodburning a 'spotty' process, so tests on scrap wood is
recommended .
............
On 08 Dec 2000 19:14:24 GMT, gene...@aol.com (GeneBueh) wrote:
>What is the best ink pen to use for signing name on bottom of wood bowls after
>turning and before finishing the piece? Gene Bue
remove BALDERDASH for email reply
Kevin Neelley
I just use a thin felt tip to sign my bowls. I don't sign directly on the wood
because of bleeding. Since I usually use several finish coats of spray lacquer,
I sign my bowls after the first spray coat and then spray two overcoats. The
signature is removable if I screw up when signing. It won't rub off, either.
Kevin
In article <20001208141424...@ng-fd1.aol.com>, gene...@aol.com
says...
>
>What is the best ink pen to use for signing name on bottom of wood bowls after
>turning and before finishing the piece? Gene Bue
Kevin Neelley
Lenexa, KS (Kansas City)
http://www.turnedwood.com
Richard Preston
I use Sanford Uniball. Other markers and pens which I have tried have bled when
overcoated with a wax or a wiped-on finish. Spray lacquer doesn't bother many
pens.
Anyway, back to the Uniball, I tested it with wiped on wax, wiped on oil,
beeswax/mineral oil mix, and wiped on lacquer and it did not smear.
Now someone will go and find a type of wood where this will fail!
My preference is a signing woodburning tip.
Regards,
Richard
>
>What is the best ink pen to use for signing name on bottom of wood bowls
>after
>turning and before finishing the piece? Gene Bue
WoodTurners Anonymous of Richmond, Va, an AAW Chapter
scott swager
After signing seal with shellac. Looks like a gold inlay.
LIONSEYES
BIG SUR
Stuart Grant
> What is the best ink pen to use for signing name on bottom of wood bowls
>
Uses a hot tip to char the wood. That should be pretty indelible, and have
other uses too.
Stuart Grant
Joe Fleming
they have no "bottom" like a bowl?
Joe - San Diego
John Lucas
Joe
I ran into the same problem especially with the ornaments I make out
of Walnuts. I use a fine line marker and just put my initial and date
really small. Then I include a card that is basically a business card
folded in half that has my name address phone and materials that the
ornament is made of. Most people give these as gifts and want to know
the type of wood. John Lucas/ Tennessee
Arch
want to make some ornaments for Christmas gifts. Using walnuts is new to
me, and sounds like a good idea. Is there a picture somewhere or would
you describe your ornaments and technique?
Arch Near Tallahassee, Fla. USA
Fortiter,
John Lucas
Arch
sorry don't have any pictures that I can easily put on the web. I do
2 things. One is to simply glue it to a wasteblock and turn it. Each
one is different so you have to play with the shape. I like to only
partially turn it so you still have some of the dark grooves left on.
The other technique is a lot better. Glue the walnut to a scrap
piece and cut off 1/4 or so slabs on the bandsaw. punch out the meat
and then add finials. because the drill bit wants to wander I grind a
slight depression with a round bit in my dremel where I want to drill
the hole. Then I drill a 3/32 hole. Now I turn a finial with a 3/32
tenon and glue it in. On the other end I drill a .026 hole with my
dremel and insert a gold earring fob that I straighten and cut short.
Another technique that works great is to fill the space left my
the meat with colored epoxy or Inlace. Black Inlace with red or
turqoise chips looks really great. Set the nut on a piece of wax paper
and pour the Inlace in, overfilling slightly. Sand it flush after it
dries and you have a beautiful ornament even without the finial. John
Lucas /Tennessee
cindy drozda
Hi James,
I would like to get a pyrography tip that does signatures well, as I have
had difficulty with everything I have tried. What is the
brand/model#/source for what you use? I have a Detail Master burning tool.
Thank you!
-CD-
boulder, CO
James Gaydos
I use are, #18K6A this one is like a rounded end pen tip and #18K6B this
is a caligraphy tip.
I got them from Woodcraft, Parkersburg, WV store. They cost $24.99 each
,that was two years ago. I thought they were a bit pricy,but I belive
they will last a good long time.
Armin Hanik
I tried about everyone there is and that's the Best
--
Armin Hanik & Asuka Ikehara
The Flying Cow Fine Woodcraft
Waipapa road
Kerikeri
New Zealand
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~flycow
"GeneBueh" <gene...@aol.com> wrote in message
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