Filling faceplate screw holes
Malcolm (Mac) MacFarlane
way? I have heard about mixing shavings/dust with glue and filling it that
way? Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
Fred Holder
It has been several years since I used a faceplate to mount a bowl for turning,
but I have hidden screw holes by making it look like a decoration. I keep 1/4"
and 3/8" Redheart dowels on hand for just such an occasion. I use a Forstner
drill to drill a hole with the drill press over the hole I want to hide. Then
glue in a piece of Redheart or some other contrasting wood. In fact, it is good
to make a circle that intersects the screw holes and is concentric with the bowl
bottom and put in several inserts. This then looks like a decoration and not a
hiding of screw holes.
I've used this technique very effectively to correct for cutting through the
bottom of a bowl. On a light colored bowl, I inserted a piece of 1" redheart
dowl. On a piece of Manzinata Root, I made up a maple foot with a one inch tenon
that went up through the bottom of the bowl. No one thought either of these were
a fix, it was decoration. Don't try to hide things decorate them.
Fred Holder
<http://www.fholder.com/>
In article <01be6507$2cf0af20$a60f65cc@malcolm>, "Malcolm says...
jan and bill badland
Darrell Feltmate
Why be inconspicuous? Drill the holes jto 1/4 " and fit small plugs as
feet.Or use a plug cutter to fit exactly sized plugs and sand flush. Why do
you have screw holes in the first place? Gosh that is a snarky sounding
question. Sorry, it is not meant to be. That is, I and many others turn
without chucks and no screw holes. Does the style you are turning demand a
hole? Need hints? This group is great for them.
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
michel casas
In article <01be6507$2cf0af20$a60f65cc@malcolm>, "Malcolm (Mac) MacFarlane"
<mal...@kawartha.com> wrote:
> Any tips for filling holes from faceplate screw holes in an inconspicuous
> way? I have heard about mixing shavings/dust with glue and filling it that
> way? Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
***********
Hi Mac,
if you really want to use face plates (i prefer screw chuck, 4jaws chuck or
chucking in wood, or with glue on a wooden face plate) :
1) use 6 short screws instead of 3 longer.
2) take care to make the foot longer (equivalent the size of your screws)
3) when your bowl (piece) is finished, re-chuck it and cut the foot till the
holes disapears.
It works well, it just needs a litlle bit more wood.
Have fun in woodturning
Michel
***Le sage montre la lune, les imbeciles regardent le doigt***
John Lucas
I rough turn the bowl between centers and leave the bottom 3" which is the
same size as my faceplate. I screw a scrap block on my faceplate and then glue
the bowl to the faceplate using CA glue. I run a bead around the outside after
its on the faceplate to add a little extra strength. Then I hollow out the
inside supporting it for a while with the tail stock. After the inside is done
and finished I sand most of the outside then reverse it by whatever method is
best for the shape of that piece. I usually make some sort of faceplate or
plug and then support the piece with the tail stock to turn the bottom and foot
of the bowl. This way you don't have any screw holes to bother with. John
Lucas
marion wooden
One method of hiding the faceplate screw holes on the bottom is to cover
with small felt circles. These can be bought from craft stores, Home Depot,
and other stores. The felt also protects the surface of the table or other
furniture that the turning is placed on. The felt circles that I use come
with contact adhesive on one side and are easy to put into place on the
screw holes.
Don Wooden
Dee Smith
the turned object and turn away the wood containing the holes. This
not only does away with man made holes but also lessens the weight
of the object and reduces stresses of drying by equalizing wall
thickness throughout the object.
I doubt that there is any good reason to have filled faceplate screw
holes on any turned object.
Dee
Malcolm (Mac) MacFarlane wrote:
>
> Any tips for filling holes from faceplate screw holes in an inconspicuous
> way? I have heard about mixing shavings/dust with glue and filling it that
> way? Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
--
Dee Smith
PIT, Packaging and Integration Testing
IBM Austin, Tx
Malcolm (Mac) MacFarlane
Darrell Feltmate <pr...@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in article
<7bjljr$3d6$1...@garnet.nbnet.nb.ca>...
> feet.Or use a plug cutter to fit exactly sized plugs and sand flush. Why
do
> you have screw holes in the first place? That is, I and many others turn
> without chucks and no screw holes. Does the style you are turning demand
a
> hole?
I know a number of techniques for turning a bowl without screw holes. The
type of pieces I am stumped with are items like a flat base for a cheese
tray with an inset marble centre, or a flat breadboard. I don't have a
Nova or similar chuck, so can't use a dovetail or the like.
> Need hints? This group is great for them.
Definitely open to hints. I see a few already posted. ie. I have seen
double sided tape advertised in the Lee Valley catalogue which looks like
it might solve this problem. How well does that work. Also, what is CA
glue? Thanks.
>
>
Andrew Barss
: I know a number of techniques for turning a bowl without screw holes. The
: type of pieces I am stumped with are items like a flat base for a cheese
: tray with an inset marble centre, or a flat breadboard. I don't have a
: Nova or similar chuck, so can't use a dovetail or the like.
: Definitely open to hints. I see a few already posted. ie. I have seen
: double sided tape advertised in the Lee Valley catalogue which looks like
: it might solve this problem. How well does that work. Also, what is CA
: glue? Thanks.
CA = cyanoacrylate glue. It's a special, fast-curing glue (the hardware
stores sell a thin version as Krazy Glue) that comes in a variety of
thicknesses.
I've recently been experimenting with tape, and various glues, for holding
blanks on (I do have a chuck, but have been experimenting with the
alternatives). Based on quite limited experience...
1) CA glue sometimes holds terrifically well, sometimes not.
2) Yellow (carpenter's) glue, connecting a blank and a wooden faceplate,
didn't hold at all well -- broke completely free.
3) Hot-melt glue worked great -- I attached a 7" burl bowl with a very
small base (around 1" wide) to a scrap tenon, and it's held perfectly. I
really like this stuff!
4) On a couple of wide things (a cheeseboard, and a platter), I used
doubles-ded tape, which also held unproblematically.
The CA glue is the most expensive, and most toxic, and didn't hold
as consistently well as hot-melt glue or cloth carpet tape.
-- Andrew Barss
Darrell Feltmate
CA glue is cyanoacrylic or "super" glue. Do not buy it from the local
hardware in those rediculous pens or minitubes. Buy it from a turning
supplier in 2oz. bottles along with a spray bottle of accererator. You
mentioned Lee Valley. Great people and they have it. Do not put the cap back
on, a personal whimsey. I find it lasts better and is less prone to the tube
filling with hardened glue. The thin stuff is great for stopping a crack
spreading and the thick stuff for filling in a small void or (drum roll)
helping to hold stuff on a wood faceplate.
Let's turn a cheese board with inlaid circular 6" ceramic tile.
Needed:
hardwood round roughed to about 8 1/2" diam by 3/4 to 1" thick
6" ceramic tile
softwood round roughed to 6 1/2" diam by about 1 1/2" thick (I cut it
from scrap 2X8)
Mount the softwood to the lathe faceplate with 3/4" screws, preferably
#10 or #12 sheet metal screws (predudice here). Turn round to over 6" and
face it off. Leaving it attached to the faceplate, center it on the hardwood
blank and draw around it lightly with a pencil. Spray the inside of the ring
with accelerator, put a thin ring of thick CA on the faceplate about an inch
inside the outer rim. Now put the faceplate back on the hardwood with a firm
pressure and hold for about 30 seconds. Leave it for about 10 minutes. I do
not know if that is necessary, but I do it for large pieces and it works for
me.
Sidebar note. I also use hot glue in exactly this same way. However, CA
also works on wet wood and endgrain, so this is a good exercise.
Mount the faceplate and wood on the lathe and turn to round. You are
looking at the top of the cheese board. Therefore shape the edges as you
wish and turn a cavity for the ceramic tile. Not all 6" tiles are measured
alike. Turn the cavity to leave the tile a hair proud and leave about 1/32"
to 1/16" all around for wood expansion. Sand and remove from lathe.
CA holds like a son of a gun but does not take shear pressure, neither
does hot glue. So, whichever you used, lay the piece down on a oad on the
work bench, put a chisel to the glue line, and rap smartly with mallet or
hammer. Turn about 90 degrees and rap again and again until the piece
separates. Clean up glue as is easy with the chisel. I have an old 1" cheap
chisel for abuse like this.
Remount the faceplate which still has the softwood on it. Turn a tenon
to exactly fit the hole in the cheeseboard. It should be a hard press fit so
be fussy. Come close and then try, adjust a hair and try again until it
pushes on. The softwood is not only cheaper to use, it compresses slightly
to make what is called her a jam fit. This is a jam chuck. I read somewhere,
I think in article by Ernie Conover, that jam chucks are hard for beginners
to use, but I have used them since I started turning. I did not know any
better:-). Conover, by the way, is a better turner than I and probably the
grand master of jam chucks.
Anyway, jam the cheeseboard on the jam chuck. Some people use a bit of
chalk dust on the tenon to hold things a bit better. Bring up the tail stock
against a small wood pad if you like, but it is likely not necessary. Face
off the base and sand. The base can be flat or, my preference, a bit concave
to sit better.Pop the cheeseboard off the jam chuck.
Glue the ceramic tile in place and done. CA can be used to glue or epoxy
or ceramic cement of your choice. If you feel fussy, go to a pet store and
get some aquarium silicone. Food safe and water proof. Mask off the cavity
with masking tape cut with a rasor blade to the exact rim. Put three or four
equally spaced dots of silicone on the ceramic tile bottom and a bead around
the cavity rim. Place the tile in the cavity. The silicone will squeeze up
the cavity sides as you press. Give an even pressure to prevent breakage.
Wash off the excess with white vinegar (note the acetic acid smell of the
silicone?), remove the tape and done. Let the silicone dry and apply your
finish of choice.
By the way, wood moves. No surprise here. To prevent the board from
developing a rock, three small feet applied at even intervals to the bottom
will maintain a stable stand. Have fun.
Dee Smith
cheese board. Well done!
Just to add some options, you could use double stick carpet tape,
obtained at you neighborhood Walmart, instead of the glue. A thin
board like that will not put appreciable stress on the tape. Also,
the tape could be used on the face of the tenon when reverse
turning the bottom of the board and the tail stock could be removed
to get the center of the bottom. If you use the tape, then you will
not need such a precise fit to the tenon. However, a well fitting
tenon helps to center the board for the reverse turning.
Dee
Darrell Feltmate wrote:
> (A very nice description of turning a cheese board.)
>
> God bless and safe turning
> Darrell Feltmate
--
Fred Holder
Both CA glue (Yellow lable Hot Stuff) and hot melt glue are subject to breakage
under shock. They are very strong joints for continuous tension, but a shock
such as a large catch will sometime break the joint.
Yellow glue, or at least Tightbond II, has a tremendous holding capability if
the two joined areas are smooth and flat. It has little gap filling capability
such as the thick CA glue and the hot melt glue. However, if properly joined it
is very strong. I have yet to have a Tightbond II joint break.
The double backed tape that Craft Supplies USA sells is excellent stuff. It does
has a shelf life of about one year. So I would recommend that you buy new stuff
once a year. Do not use carpet tape, it can let go suddenly. When bonding with
the double back tape, apply the tape to one side and then stick to the other
item and then apply presssure. Either stack weight on the items or clamp them in
a vice for about 5 to 10 minutes. This seems to set things and the joint is then
very good; however, do not leave mounted on the lathe overnight. If you must
wait to finish turn a piece, remove it from the lathe so that there is no
pressure on the joint.
Fred Holder
<http://www.fholder.com/>
In article <7bks7b$qn6$1...@news.ccit.arizona.edu>, Andrew says...
Ron Williams
diameter of your bowl's foot. You can turn most of the outside shape
and the inside while attached to the faceplate. You can reverse turn
the bowl by placing it over a rounded waste block on another faceplate.
Place some leather or foam rubber over the block to protect the interior
finish and to provide friction to drive it. Bring up the tailstock to
support the base while you turn away the excess - screw holes should end
up outside the finished shape.
One problem for some is getting the tailstock in the exact center to
ensure the bowl spins on the original axis. At a class in the
Minneapolis Woodcraft store, Alan lacer provided a simple solution.
before you remove the bowl from the faceplate, thread it off the spindle
and insert a dead center in the morse taper. Thread the faceplate back
on, and the point of the dead center leaves its mark in the exact center
of the base of your bowl.
Enjoy your turning!
RKW
In article <01be6507$2cf0af20$a60f65cc@malcolm>, "Malcolm (Mac)
MacFarlane"
> <mal...@kawartha.com> wrote:
>
> > Any tips for filling holes from faceplate screw holes in an inconspicuous
> > way? I have heard about mixing shavings/dust with glue and filling it that
> > way? Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
>
> ***********
>
Geoff Heath
Malcolm (Mac) MacFarlane wrote in message
<01be6507$2cf0af20$a60f65cc@malcolm>...
>Any tips for filling holes from faceplate screw holes in an inconspicuous
>way? I have heard about mixing shavings/dust with glue and filling it that
>way? Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
>
Why use screws? Try glue from a glue gun. It holds sufficiently well while
you turn one side of your bowl or whatever, and is easily peeled off.
Geoff
aka "Skew" - the compiler of the prize crossword in "Woodturning" magazine.
Malcolm (Mac) MacFarlane
Mac
ljhgv
with your stupid clues. hahahaha...... but seriously have you ever tried
putting some hotmelt glue directly onto the faceplate and clamping it to the
bowl bottom? I heard of a guy doing this once but never tried it. Any
suggestions?
Fran in Ireland
fr...@clubi.ie
Ken Bullock
pieces a year, most are bowls. I always use hot melt glue to hold the bottom
of a bowl blank to the face plate.
First I attach a block of hardwood to the face plate with screws and turn it
to roughtly the same diameter as the bottom of my bowl blank, leaving it a
little concave. Next I dip the wooden face plate into my little electric
frying pan full of hot melt glue and just sit it on the bottom of my now
upside down bowl blank. Voila, in two minutes I am turning.
I did have one come off last year but that was my fault. the blank had a
crack in it and as soon as I touched it with the gouge it split and flew
off. At any rate, it hold incredably well and is great for the production
type work I do....
Darrell Feltmate
I turn a bowl by roughing the outside shile it is on a faceplate to the top,
then reversing it to a wood faceplate with CA. To finish, I attach the dried
bowl to a wood faceplate with hot glue and turn. Works for me up to 12"
maple, and with the new lathe I will be able to try up to 15". I've seen the
pro down the river turn 24" vessels using the hot glue.
God bless and safe truning
Darrell Feltmate
Frank Harman
Ken Bullock <kbul...@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message
news:7bsgaq$l6c$1...@garnet.nbnet.nb.ca...
>I have been turning professionally for about 6 years. I make approx 6000
>pieces a year, most are bowls. I always use hot melt glue to hold the
bottom
>of a bowl blank to the face plate.
Hi Ken...
I'm somewhat curious about the above statement
RE: 6000 pieces a year. Based on 365 days a year,
turning seven (7) days each week of the year, turning
24 hours every day, means that you produce 16.438356
pieces every 24 hours.
That is: 6000 pieces / 365 days = 16.438356 pieces daily.
When do you have time to sleep, or eat, or vacation and so on ?
Are you a "one-turner" operation?
Do you have six or seven turners working for you in your shop?
I'd certainly like to know how you do it ;-))
Best regards,
Frank - who can be found at : fh9...@ecn.ab.ca
and when Internet surfing at : ICQ: 13572173
Edmonton - The City of Champions! - Alberta, Canada.
Ken Bullock
business as a production line, 5 lathes in operation. I do all the finish
turning and my guys do all the roughing and sanding.
A good number of my turnings are bone simple. Chop Sticks, Lids for Mason
jars, Corks ets.... It is for the most part production stuff. I could if the
demand was there double production. At full steam with 3 guys sanding, I
can produce 40-50 bowls a day. Even my wife can sand 10 to 15 bowls a day. A
man can do 15 to 20 in an 8 hour day.
If I don't take this approach, We don't make money..... AND THAT IS THE
BOTTOM LINE....
One thing that help are, Power sanding, 4600 RPM Drill with a 5 inch velcro
backed disc pad. A 12 inch bowl take approx 20 Minute to sand depending on
the operator.
jan and bill badland
faceplate is heated first with an iron before putting on the hotmelt
glue. Bill
Kevin Miller
>
buncha stuff...
>
But Ken, whatever happened to your web site? You gonna put that back
up again one of these days?
--
Kevin & Theresa Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
d.ne...@arnprior.com
Lee Valley to the rescue again. They sell a double sided tape designed
for faceplate mounting.
Dick Wexelblat
workpiece to the scrap.
Screw holes -- filled or not -- in the bottom of a finished piece is
_strictly_amateur_ In fact, Amateur++
jan and bill badland
aluminum and it conducts heat real well. The face plate has to be heated very hot
before applying the hot melt glue. Bill