What is Hippo Oil???
David Galley
My father in law keeps telling me about a finish he calls 'Hippo Oil'.
This puts a clear hard high gloss finish on soft woods such as pine. I
have seen several of his bowls finished with this and it gives a more
durable finish than PU or just oil. Any help greatly appreciated.
Note: For my real email address remove the * from the one listed in
the header.
Michael John Hide
*dga...@bconnex.net (David Galley) wrote:
;My father in law keeps telling me about a finish he calls 'Hippo
Hippo oil is some what similar to its asian ancestor "LIPPO" oil
which is used in many countries ,including the US to grease the palms
[another wood ] of politicians .
Recently it has appreciated to unknown heights inasmuch that its value
is such that it can be used to not only influence polititcal office
holders but to actually purchase those offices.
mjh
Stev
Some more adventurous hippos like this stuff for use during
the mating season. <g>
stev
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John Levin wrote:
>
> In article <5doguj$o...@camel0.mindspring.com>, mike...@mindspring.com says...
>
> > Hippo oil is some what similar to its asian ancestor "LIPPO" oil
> >which is used in many countries ,including the US to grease the palms
> >[another wood ] of politicians .
>
Not true, It's a hand rubbing oil used at health spases(fat farms).
RESPITE95
Not to be a wise guy, there are none in this group(!), but why not just
ask your father in law.
John Levin
David Galley
My father-inlaw was given this product by friend. I believe that this
was made up by this friend and is not commercially available.
Unfortunately the friend has since passed on so we are unable to ask
him how it was obtained or made up.
Daniel Morris DeRight
Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 11-Feb-97 Re: What is Hippo
Oil??? by bob...@worldnet.att.net
> Not true, It's a hand rubbing oil used at health spases(fat farms).
C'mon guys, someone has to provide a straight answer!
Hippo oil is a prized oil that is used for fine wood finishing. It
is obtained through a fairly unpleasant, and sometimes illegal process,
in which the Hippo is supended above a tub of lime jello . . .
==========================
Dan DeRight sod...@cmu.edu
Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom. It is
the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves. -William Pitt
Michael Brush
Can't believe the level of misinformation in the above responses (although
the person that suggested it's used in health spas is closer than he may
realize). Hippo oil (--from Hippolyta, queen of the Amazons in Greek
mythology) was used by the Greeks for bathing (you know, rub it on and
scrape it off). A carpenter noticed that it left a nice finish on the
wooden benches used by the bathers (also, unfortunately, on the bathers)
and the rest is history.
Mike
catjam
I'm asking help from this group. We're building a home and want to
use a natural tung oil finish on our oak floors. Have you had any
experience with this finish? Who makes the best? Is it better to
have 100% tung oil, or is tung plus a solvent okay?
Any advice will be appreciated.
Jean
Alyn W. Ashworth
Hippo Oil, as any fule no, is an anagram of
Oo - Philip
....which is of course what H.M. the Queen says when the Duke of
Edinburgh rubs her down with it.
--
Alyn W. Ashworth
Liverpool, England
David Galley
Mike,
Thank you for the only intelligent post, to-date, on my original
question regarding Hippo-Oil.
To the rest of the people that responded thank you for the quantity.
David Galley
'Tis best to have people think you are a fool than to open your mouth
and remove all doubt.' ---Mark Twain---
Bruce Taylor
- Daniel Morris DeRight wrote:
>
> Excerpts from netnews.rec.woodworking: 11-Feb-97 Re: What is Hippo
> Oil??? by bob...@worldnet.att.net
> > John Levin wrote:
> > >
> > > In article <5doguj$o...@camel0.mindspring.com>,
> mike...@mindspring.com says...
> >
> > >
> > > > Hippo oil is some what similar to its asian ancestor "LIPPO" oil
> > > >which is used in many countries ,including the US to grease the palms
> > > >[another wood ] of politicians .
> > >
> > > Entirely incorrect. Hippo oil is what you use to stop hippos from
> squeaking.
> >
> > Not true, It's a hand rubbing oil used at health spases(fat farms).
>
> C'mon guys, someone has to provide a straight answer!
>
> Hippo oil is a prized oil that is used for fine wood finishing. It
> is obtained through a fairly unpleasant, and sometimes illegal process,
> in which the Hippo is supended above a tub of lime jello . . .
>
> ==========================
> Dan DeRight sod...@cmu.edu
>
> Necessity is the plea of every infringement of human freedom. It is
> the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves. -William Pitt
- No, no, no. Hippo oil was the greasy smear left by the lamps of St Augustine
- of Hippo, as he toiled away into the night working on his theological treatises. It is now akin to holy oil and very hard to come by.
- By the way, is it food-safe?
- - Bruce
Whistler
I have long since come to the realization that the world is really full of half wits, and the sad part
about is that most of them seem to have access to the internet. Even this news group is not immune from
them. I read most of the feeble attempts at humor and have to conclude that most of the messages were
probably from people under the age of 20. For the most part they were totally lacking in humor, and
really rather pathetic.
Imagine if we could channel all this effort into something really useful. We'd have the world by the
tail. Your quote by Mark Twain really said it all.
Tony Kettle
Alyn W. Ashworth
In article <330A21...@nf.sympatico.ca>, Whistler
<whis...@nf.sympatico.ca> writes
>
>I have long since come to the realization that the world is really full of half
>wits, and the sad part
>about is that most of them seem to have access to the internet. Even this news
>group is not immune from
>them. I read most of the feeble attempts at humor and have to conclude that most
>of the messages were
>probably from people under the age of 20. For the most part they were totally
>lacking in humor, and
>really rather pathetic.
>
>Imagine if we could channel all this effort into something really useful. We'd
>have the world by the
>tail. Your quote by Mark Twain really said it all.
>
>Tony Kettle
As a non-serious contributor to this thread, I have to say it's some
time since I was mistaken for a 20-year-old, but thanks!
Is this a case of the Kettle calling the pot black - If not then I'm
snookered.
David Galley
Tony,
Thank you.
Alyn,
I think you just proved Tony's point. I wonder why anyone would have
considered this a question that would invite a 'non-serious
contributor' like you to reply. Thank god there are more people like
Tony and less like you with so much time to waste on their hands.
By the way for those that may be interested I have since discovered
that Hippo Oil was a brand name manufactured over 15 years ago by a
company called 'Acme Paint and Varnish'.
As it seems like this thread is obtaining all the traits of turning
into a flame war I will not contribute further to the non-sensicle
nature and apologize for starting a thread that for all intents and
purposes was a waste of bandwidth. There will be a new thread in the
group asking if anyone knows of an adress for 'Acme Paint and
Varnish'. Just so there are no misunderstandings, please do not follow
me there unless you have an answer. This will be only for serious
contributors. Again Thank you Tony, good bye alyn!
David Galley
Brian Kaider
*dga...@bconnex.net (David Galley) wrote:
>Tony,
>Thank you.
>Alyn,
>I think you just proved Tony's point. I wonder why anyone would have
>considered this a question that would invite a 'non-serious
>contributor' like you to reply. Thank god there are more people like
>Tony and less like you with so much time to waste on their hands.
>By the way for those that may be interested I have since discovered
>that Hippo Oil was a brand name manufactured over 15 years ago by a
>company called 'Acme Paint and Varnish'.
>As it seems like this thread is obtaining all the traits of turning
>into a flame war I will not contribute further to the non-sensicle
>nature and apologize for starting a thread that for all intents and
>purposes was a waste of bandwidth. There will be a new thread in the
>group asking if anyone knows of an adress for 'Acme Paint and
>Varnish'. Just so there are no misunderstandings, please do not follow
>me there unless you have an answer. This will be only for serious
>contributors. Again Thank you Tony, good bye alyn!
>David Galley
I didn't contribute to the discussion either seriously or humorously,
but, I did think the jokes were kind of funny. If you didn't enjoy
them, that's ok, but don't flame people for spreading a little
laughter among "friends." Lighten up a little. OK?
Brian
StanR
David Galley wrote:
There will be a new thread in the
> group asking if anyone knows of an adress for 'Acme Paint and
> Varnish'. Just so there are no misunderstandings, please do not follow
> me there unless you have an answer. This will be only for serious
> contributors.
>
> David Galley
Is this that same Acme Company that makes those anvils and things that
Wiley Coyote is always trying to drop on the Road Runner?
Stan
(Sorry, David, I couldn't resist <g>)
Bob D.
In article <330D66...@california.com>, StanR <st...@california.com> wrote:
>David Galley wrote:
>
>There will be a new thread in the
>> group asking if anyone knows of an adress for 'Acme Paint and
>> Varnish'. Just so there are no misunderstandings, please do not follow
>> me there unless you have an answer. This will be only for serious
>> contributors.
>>
>Wiley Coyote is always trying to drop on the Road Runner?
Oh, oh! You've displayed the forbidden trait of a sense of humor. You
will be agrimilated. Watch the sky for falling anvils (during which
you'll probably wander off a cliff or in front of a large Acme lumber
delivery truck). Meep! Meep!. :-)
Obligatory woodworking relevant thingee (to atone for the above highjinks
and to appease the humorless termagants of USENET):
When routing a roundover on a board with wild or unique grain
(spalted or birdseye Maple for example) using a roundover bit,
I was shown a technique for minimizing tear-out: Take the
router and come in from the edge as far as the bearing will
permit at regularly spaced (perhaps 1" or less -- if I recall
accurately, I believe the person teaching this was using 1/2")
intervals. Then, come back and run the edge of the board as
per normal. This will limit the potential tearout to a maximum
of the distance to the next "notch" you created initially. Then
clean up the finished edge with light sanding.
--
============================================================
...two thousand, five hundred Terabytes of spinning data,
all at home on the 'net....home to net wanderers, drifters,
and aliens...the name of the place...Internet '97.
R. Martin Caskey
Bob D. wrote:
> StanR wrote:
> >David Galley wrote:
> > >...new thread...asking...adress for 'Acme Paint and Varnish'...only
> > >for serious contributors.
> >...same Acme Company...anvils and things...Wiley Coyote...drop on...
> >the Road Runner?
>Oh, oh!...forbidden trait of a sense of humor. You will be agrimilated.
>...falling anvils...wander off a cliff...in front of a large Acme
>lumber delivery truck). Meep! Meep!. :-)
Which will be acceptable to the newsgroup Grinch so long as the address
for Acme is on the side of the truck!!
:-)
Martin Caskey
Towson, Maryland
"I'll be turning in my grave."
hau...@mbi.org
In article <5ek86v$7...@names.freenet.columbus.oh.us> bo...@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Bob D.) writes:
>From: bo...@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Bob D.)
>Subject: Re: What is Hippo Oil???
>Date: 21 Feb 1997 08:33:19 -0500
Bob D. writes:
> When routing a roundover on a board with wild or unique grain
> (spalted or birdseye Maple for example) using a roundover bit,
> I was shown a technique for minimizing tear-out: Take the
> router and come in from the edge as far as the bearing will
> permit at regularly spaced (perhaps 1" or less -- if I recall
> accurately, I believe the person teaching this was using 1/2")
> intervals. Then, come back and run the edge of the board as
> per normal. This will limit the potential tearout to a maximum
> of the distance to the next "notch" you created initially. Then
> clean up the finished edge with light sanding.
This might help, but 1/2" long tearout is still too long, IMO. The most
effective way is to run all falling grain portions with the bit, and then run
the whole thing against the bit. Trouble is, it's potentially dangerous - a
firm grip is a must. And, you need to make the wrong-way pass at full depth,
or it's not effective.
Of course, tearout is most prevalent during edge forming of sharp lines.
Roundovers, therefore, usually result in minimal, if any tearout.
Rich
Bob D.
In article <haubert.13...@mbi.org>, <hau...@mbi.org> wrote:
[Tear-out minimization tip I posted previously deleted for brevity]
>This might help, but 1/2" long tearout is still too long, IMO. The most
That's why I posted it as a "technique for minimizing tear-out", not
eliminating it.
>effective way is to run all falling grain portions with the bit, and then run
>the whole thing against the bit. Trouble is, it's potentially dangerous - a
>firm grip is a must. And, you need to make the wrong-way pass at full depth,
>or it's not effective.
>
>Of course, tearout is most prevalent during edge forming of sharp lines.
>Roundovers, therefore, usually result in minimal, if any tearout.
I was really just passing on something I picked up in a router course I
took a few weeks back which I hadn't heard before. I'm trying to make
sure everything I post off the topic of woodworking contains some sort
of snippet to attempt to make sure something in the post is relevant to
ww. I'm not surprised that some folks with more experience in ww than I
would disagree with the suggested technique. Your follow-up was good in
that it offers an alternative viewpoint (no tearout permissible) and a
method for achieving that goal (albeit at an intangible cost in safety).
Alyn W. Ashworth
In article <5ekpdn$s...@lois.zippo.com>, TomHamilt...@mnsi.net
writes
>My daughter is home for a visit and was scanning RMO this morning and then
>she switched to this RCW news group and scanned all the "Hippo Oil"
>posts,
>She had an observation which I am going to pass on without comment:
>
> " Growing Old is Obligatory,
> Growing UP is optional"...
>
I agree - and long may it be so.
wayne...@gmail.com
> My father in law keeps telling me about a finish he calls 'Hippo Oil'.
> This puts a clear hard high gloss finish on soft woods such as pine. I
> have seen several of his bowls finished with this and it gives a more
> durable finish than PU or just oil. Any help greatly appreciated.
> Note: For my real email address remove the * from the one listed in
> the header.
That's about the extent of my knowledge on this.
One Man Machine Shop
S Who
> My father in law keeps telling me about a finish he calls 'Hippo Oil'.
> This puts a clear hard high gloss finish on soft woods such as pine. I
> have seen several of his bowls finished with this and it gives a more
> durable finish than PU or just oil. Any help greatly appreciated.
> Note: For my real email address remove the * from the one listed in
> the header.