Acceptable runout on arbor and chuck
Ian MacDonald
I just got a Oneway Talon chuck for my Delta Midi. I noticed after
installing it that there is quite a bit of runout on the chuck body, jaws
and drive arbor. The runout on the arbor is 0.005", on the chuck body it's
0.010" and at the chuck jaws it's also 0.010". Is this too much to expect?
I'm mostly concerned with remounting stock after it has been turned. Is it
normal to have to mark the orientation of the stock before removing it so
that it can be replaced in the same orientation?
Thanks,
-- Ian
Bob Pritchard
That much runout is not acceptable.
It sounds like your spindle adaptor is incorrectly installed or is not
seated in the chuck body.
If you refer to your instructions that came with the chuck it
explains the correct procedure for installing the insert.
If you don`t have the instructions post again and I or someone will
give you a rundown on how to do it.
Yes it`s a good idea to mark your turning when it is removed and
reinstalled but thats not the problem at hand.
Bob, Naugatuck Ct.
Ian MacDonald
I _thought_ I was following the directions correctly. I cleaned the
inside of the taper on the chuck the outside of the taper adapter. I
lined up the 3 holes and alternately tightened the 4mm screws until they
were snug and did not seem pull the adapter into the taper any further.
The thing that concerned me though is that the instructions say that a
gap of 0.020" and 0.050" between that adapter and chuck is normal. I
could only get the adapter flange to within 0.100" of the chuck. If
it's supposed to be closer I don't know how I would do it because the
screws are as tight as I dare go. Is is possible I received the wrong
adapter. The one I got has bi-directional threads for the spindle and
the 4mm screw holes seem to line up OK.
Maybe I should contact Oneway about this.
BTW, do you think the 0.005" runout on the outside (on the flat area
behind the threads) of the lathe's drive spindle is significant?
Regards,
-- Ian
In article <15784-3B...@storefull-142.iap.bryant.webtv.net>,
bbbb...@webtv.net says...
Bill Brachhold
If you have runout on your spindle, then of course you are going to have
the runout on anything attached to it. It can actually be amplified on an
attachment, depending on where you are measuring the runout on that
attachment.
You need to deal with the spindle runout first or be satisfied with what
you have.
BTW, I've NEVER been able to re-chuck a piece perfectly, so I don't plan on
it as part of my turning design. There are too many factors, mainly
related to the crushabilty of the wood fibers, that keep you from getting a
perfect re-chuck. Even if you had the chuck aligned perfectly with where
it was chucked before, any piece of wood changes shape slightly after it
sits around a few days and is then it is no longer round anyway. Typically
a round object like a bowl will go oval, so you have two high spots and two
low spots. It is then IMPOSSIBLE, even using shimming, to put the piece
back on perfectly.
Bill in Gainesville, Florida, USA
http://www.geocities.com/billbrachh
http://www.surfingto.com/treecity/
ian...@NOSPAM.dnai.com (Ian MacDonald) wrote in
<MPG.16147d7d8...@news.supernews.com>:
James P. Riser
To get that much runout on the lathe spindle itself is unacceptable. Are
the bearings loose, shaft bent, bur on shaft where you are measuring, etc.?
I usually measure inside the Morse taper, the shaft shoulder, and the base
of the threaded spindle. Do they all give the same reading? BTW - the last
three Nova chucks I bought from Woodcraft were all way off. I ended up
truing them on my surface grinder to remove the wobble. You should get
things to .001"-.002" of runout (at the chuck) without too much problem -
unless the problem is with the lathe shaft and bearings. Wood lathe chucks
will not give the repeatability of metal working lathes and chucks.
Jim
"Ian MacDonald" <ian...@NOSPAM.dnai.com> wrote in message
news:tql3al...@news.supernews.com...
Fly-by-Night CC
bill...@hotmail.com (Bill Brachhold) wrote:
> BTW, I've NEVER been able to re-chuck a piece perfectly, so I don't plan
> on
> it as part of my turning design. There are too many factors, mainly
> related to the crushabilty of the wood fibers, that keep you from getting
> a
> perfect re-chuck. Even if you had the chuck aligned perfectly with where
> it was chucked before, any piece of wood changes shape slightly after it
> sits around a few days and is then it is no longer round anyway.
> Typically
> a round object like a bowl will go oval, so you have two high spots and
> two
> low spots. It is then IMPOSSIBLE, even using shimming, to put the piece
> back on perfectly.
This is my greatest frustration and I'm actually happy to hear it's not
due solely to my noviceness.
How do you folks deal with the situation in which every time you
reverse, the position changes along with dimensional changes in the
piece? How do you blend the cuts when you are taking off high spots
only? I have been thinking it's just lack of experience and I'll gain
the skills as I progress.
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>