"GENERAL Wood Lathe
Irving Olson
Does anyone have experience with the quality of this lathe. Opinions
will be appreciated. Irving Olson, Akron, Ohio
Frank Harman
----------------------
Irving Olson wrote in message <35B277...@neo.lrun.com>...
>I am ready to buy a new lathe and am considering the General model 260.
>Does anyone have experience with the quality of this lathe. Opinions
>will be appreciated. Irving Olson, Akron, Ohio
----------------------
Hi Irving...
I'm currently using a General 260 VD (nothing to do with social diseases
-) ),
with the outboard turning attachment, and reversing 220v 1 phase, 1 hp.
motor, operated by the Altivar 16 computer controller. AND...it is very -
VERY - quiet when turning. After having gone through two Delta's it was
time to move on and I can honestly tell you that I am a happy turner now.
If you do decide to go with the General, I would suggest that you purchase a
ONEWAY manufacturing Stronghold chuck with ALL the various jaws
including the Mega Jumbo jaws. You will then be set to "grab" or "hold"
literally anything that can be turned on a lathe. Further, DON'T buy the
live centre that General sells - I did and it came apart in the first week!
So I bought the ONEWAY manufacturing live centre set which is far superior
in quality.
I should also point out that I did make some mechanical changes to the
General 260, however, I don't know your turning background or experience so
I'm not sure how much detail you are looking for.
If you have further queries, please post here at your convenience.
Best regards from western Canada!
Frank Harman
The Woodworx - Edmonton, Ab.
Rpturner
another lathe. I don't know of any improvements that General has made in the
last 15 years. General has resisted all suggestions. Nonetheless, there are
many skilled turners who swear by the General. Today, I prefer the Nichols and
the Oneway. An important consideration is a reversing capability, no gap in
the bed, stability on larger pieces, stability on offset turning.
Good luck
Seven Oaks Management
>
> I am ready to buy a new lathe and am considering the General model 260.
> Does anyone have experience with the quality of this lathe. Opinions
> will be appreciated. Irving Olson, Akron, Ohio
it claims it can do.I also have the outboard rig and use it
extensively.I lagged it to a concrete floor with vibration pads.It is
also far enough off the wall so one can get on the other side.Very
usefull.Also have variable speed motor.If you have any other question
feel free to ask.Have a number of buddies have generals as well and
would say the same .Best of good turning -Murray
--
George Jarvis
>
> Perhaps Frank's response to Irving suggests it might be appropriate to consider
> another lathe. I don't know of any improvements that General has made in the
> last 15 years. General has resisted all suggestions. Nonetheless, there are
> many skilled turners who swear by the General. Today, I prefer the Nichols and
> the Oneway. An important consideration is a reversing capability, no gap in
> the bed, stability on larger pieces, stability on offset turning.
>
> Good luck
>
> >Irving Olson wrote in message <35B277...@neo.lrun.com>...
> >>Does anyone have experience with the quality of this lathe. Opinions
> >>will be appreciated. Irving Olson, Akron, Ohio
>
> >----------------------
> >
> >Hi Irving...
> >
> >I'm currently using a General 260 VD (nothing to do with social diseases
> >-) ),
> >with the outboard turning attachment, and reversing 220v 1 phase, 1 hp.
> >motor, operated by the Altivar 16 computer controller. AND...it is very -
> >VERY - quiet when turning. After having gone through two Delta's it was
> >time to move on and I can honestly tell you that I am a happy turner now.
> >
> >If you do decide to go with the General, I would suggest that you purchase a
> >ONEWAY manufacturing Stronghold chuck with ALL the various jaws
> >including the Mega Jumbo jaws. You will then be set to "grab" or "hold"
> >literally anything that can be turned on a lathe. Further, DON'T buy the
> >live centre that General sells - I did and it came apart in the first week!
> >So I bought the ONEWAY manufacturing live centre set which is far superior
> >in quality.
> >
> >I should also point out that I did make some mechanical changes to the
> >General 260, however, I don't know your turning background or experience so
> >I'm not sure how much detail you are looking for.
> >
> >If you have further queries, please post here at your convenience.
> >
> >Best regards from western Canada!
> >
> >Frank Harman
> >The Woodworx - Edmonton, Ab.
Frank
I also use a General 260VD and am considering installing a remote for the
direction and speed controls. I'd be interested to hear what
modifications you have made. I'm sure that there are many General 260
users out there who have made "improvements". Can we hear from you folks?
George from Newfoundland
Frank Harman
>I also use a General 260VD and am considering installing a remote for the
>direction and speed controls. I'd be interested to hear what
>modifications you have made. I'm sure that there are many General 260
>users out there who have made "improvements". Can we hear from you folks?
>George from Newfoundland
-------------------------
Hi there George...
I have thought of using a remote type pendant similar to that found on the
ONEWAY lathe, but then I figured, what the hell, my lathe is a 36 inch and
because I am not quite dead just yet, I am still able to walk or reach a
foot or two if necessary to the controls... ;-)
One of the first "changes" I made to my 260VD was to snip off the drive belt
and replace it with the segmented type belt. It's quieter and if I should
ever need to change anything related to the motor or the headstock assembly
it will just be a matter of popping out one of the segments to give me total
access to either component.
I also got rid of those little itty bitty mickey mouse type handles which
were used to tighten the tool rest post extensions to the banjo. I did the
same to the little itty bitty mickey mouse type handle which was used for
tightening the tailstock spindle. (Not the tailstock itself which has a nice
manly handle, but rather the spindle lock).
I then removed the other little itty bitty mickey mouse handles from the
banjos where the tool post extensions are inserted and simply replaced them
with some high quality set screws.
Because my lathe has the riser blocks and the accompanying tool post
extensions (part # - 2611), I was able to replace those tiny little handles
[which come with the tool post extensions] with real man-sized ratcheting
handles (aka - adjustable levers) which I ordered from MSC in New York. If
you happen to have an MSC catalog turn to page 1024 and you can then review
and see a picture of the handle(s) of which I type.
The General tool post extensions are real heavy duty steel (not cast iron)
and because of that I had a friend TIG weld a hefty nut over the existing
threaded hole in the tool post extension to allow for greater thread support
for the new ratcheting handles. The welding procedure was/is not
necessary for the new tailstock ratcheting handle because it is not a
requirement to apply a lot of force to lock the tailstock spindle into
place.
*Why is it that most lathe manufacturers absolutely insist on installing
those goofy little handles that are too small even for some women. They
always seem to be in the wrong position when they are needed! Grrrrr!!!
The tailstock assembly has a large opening adjacent to the tailstock locking
handle which I covered with a piece of stainless steel. I simply shaped the
stainless steel, drilled and tapped four small holes into the tailstock
housing and attached the stainless steel plate. Keeps out unwanted dust and
chips very nicely.
Because I always - ALWAYS - pull the plug from the lathe electrical supply
when I am done for the day, I snipped off the factory male plug and replaced
it with a real heavy duty (metal clad) plug which is available from
electrical supply stores. I also wired a dedicated 220 line from my shop's
electrical panel box which is strictly for the lathe and nothing else.
And finally, if you want to make your General 260VD lathe even QUIETER,
(or any other cabinet style lathe) obtain some 3/8" or 1/2" thick
"closed cell" foam insulation and line the inside of the motor housing
cabinet with it - the door, the sides and bottom - you won't believe how
much more quiet your lathe becomes! (I received that tip from an
agriculturist here in Alberta who uses it in his tractor cab for grain
farming). My General was quiet before the cell insulation, but now I can
barely hear it running! You have to try it to believe it!
That's all for now George, have a good turning day and good fishin' always -
way out there in Newfoundland!
Best regards from fabulous Alberta - Rocky mountain country - where men are
MEN - and the Rocky Mountain sheep are nervous ;-))
Keep smiling!
Frank.
Frank Harman
>> I don't know of any improvements that General has made in the
>> last 15 years.
Hey there Rpturner...put a smile ;-) on your face and read the following...
Have you heard of, seen, or tried the General 260VD reversing lathe? It's
been available for the last four to five years. That, according to
elementary arithmetic, is well within the last 15 years. Not to mention
much of the heavy duty woodworking equipment produced by General...(within
the last five years) which is not applicable to this forum.
>>General has resisted all suggestions.
Is that a factual statement which can be backed up by your extensive
research into the matter, or just a very generalized blanket statement? I
don't remember seeing you at the last Edmonton Woodworking show - (where
General had a MAJOR presence) - forwarding all your research, analyses, and
suggestions.
>>Nonetheless, there are many skilled turners who swear by the General.
I'm one of them - but I'm not so biased that I will make blanket statements
about any - ANY - company and the ensuing products. In this forum it's about
woodturning and I believe that most turners who have been at turning for a
year, five years or a hundred years, will tell you that there is no such
thing as a perfect lathe - no matter how much money one spends in order to
try to obtain the best possible product - suggestions to the manufacturer
notwithstanding of course. ;-)
>> no gap in the bed
If my General didn't have the bed gap I would be looking for another lathe.
>> stability on larger pieces, stability on offset turning.
We're in total agreement on the above two statements! Whew, I was just a
tad concerned there for awhile ;-)
Have a good turning day!
Best regards...
Frank.
artisticw...@yahoo.com
Thank you,
Chris Boerner
Stuart
run" motor the capacitor may be failing.
--
Stuart Winsor
Leon
Can you determine if the motor too is stalling?
Is the head stock taper clean and not spinning?
Start with observing the motor to make sure it is not stalling, if not do
the same for the belts, if not you should probably clean the taper.
tom koehler
(in message <41e7197c-59ba-429a...@googlegroups.com>):
variable speed unit, maybe reeves drive? If this is the case, your motor is a
single speed one. If it is a 120 volt unit, it may be a split-phase motor
with starting windings and a centrifugal switch that cuts out the starting
windings at about 70% of full speed. If the switch does not cut out, the
starting windings stay in the circuit and actually prevent the motor from
reaching full speed. Does the motor get hot to the touch? It should not, if
running properly. When not plugged in and with no load on the drive spindle,
does the spindle turn easily (looking for bound-up bearings or misaligned
belts.) If it is a reeves drive, pulleys are keyed to their shafts, and if
the keys are missing or sheared, there can be slippage between the pulley and
the shaft it is on, and no belt slippage to give a clue. Could also be some
lubrication issues keeping the spring-loaded half of the variable pulley from
reacting as it should. Again, assuming a reeves drive.
If the motor seems to be running hot, it could indicate a damaged winding in
the field. A 4-pole split phase motor should be running about 1750 rpm with
no load on it, and a 2-pole motor about 3450 rpm more or less, with no load.
A noticeably slower speed under light load could indicate damaged field
winding, maybe. Unlikely, but a possibility. If the bolts that hold the motor
housing together are not doing their job, there could be a slight
misalignment of the end bells on the motor resulting in an increased load on
the motor shft, slowing it down and leading to some heating of the motor.
Just some thoughts.
tom koehler
--
I will find a way or make one.