advise on chisels
karl lachine
I'm a beginer looking for some chisels and I'm looking for some advise on
the best bang for my buck, I've read about sobey and henry taylor but
finding them a little too expencive. Was wondering if anyone knew of
anything different that I havn't come accross yet
Thanks Karl
Fly-by-Night CC
<lac...@netrover.com> wrote:
> I've read about sobey and henry taylor but
> finding them a little too expencive. Was wondering if anyone knew of
> anything different that I havn't come accross yet
Marples Blue Chip's are very popular and pretty inexpensive at around
$7-$10 +/- per chisel with sets much cheaper. Home Depot as well as many
tool stores carry the Marples. If you are looking for an all-around
chisel to do bench working as well as the occassional house doorlock
mortise or whatever, these are pretty hard to beat.
Crown Tools chisels are also well received but a little more $ than the
Marples. For these you'd have to go to a tool or woodworking store.
Fine Woodworking did a comparison test in #139 (Nov/Dec '99) of 17
chisel brands.
I've accumulated a set of Crown bench chisels and purchased Sorby's
mortise chisels as I needed them. A short while ago I picked up two 1/2"
Marples to regrind as skew chisels for dovetail paring; they work quite
well and are comfortable to hold. Maybe someday my skills will be
deserving of a set of Barr's ($300 for a set of 4).
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>
Fly-by-Night CC
Ooops, my sincerest apologies to the TURNING group - thought I was
reading rec.woodworking, so my mind automatically went to bench chisels
instead of turning chisels...
Mark
Bear in mind that I'm a newbie at this, but I was planning on buying the
HSS set from Harbor Freight and re-grinding/re-handling if necessary:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35444
I imagine the 7/8" spindle gouge could be re-ground into a roughing
gouge if need be, but you'd still need a bowl gouge (if you want to do
bowls types).
-Mark
Andrew Barss
: Hi there
I started out with a few of the Artisan line from Craft
Supplies USA, which worked well for me (I later moved up to
Hamlet and Crown gouges, partially because they are larger).
I also have bought and liked the very inexpensive carbon steel
turning tools made by Diefenbacher, and available from their website.
Carbon steel will take a finer edge than HSS, and I've found it nice to use
for final cuts.
Diefenbacher:
http://www.diefenbacher.com/turning.htm
-- Andy Barss
Brewster
lasts the longest. I'm a newbie turner too, had my sorbey set for about a
year now, other than the handles being a bit worn, and more comfortable,
they are the same as when I bought them.
My wife bought me a cheaper set a little while back, and they are in the
trash.
"karl lachine" <lac...@netrover.com> wrote in message
news:DIC37.262418$Z2.31...@nnrp1.uunet.ca...
Brad Thomas
We are about to import Crown tools from England They offer more bang for the
buck and are made of the same steel as Henry Taylor tools . Please contact us
through our new web site at www.blackforestwood.com for more info.
WoodGuy
Mark Kepke
Brewster wrote:
>
> Well, in my worthless opinion, the cheapest tool is usually the one that
> lasts the longest. I'm a newbie turner too, had my sorbey set for about a
> year now, other than the handles being a bit worn, and more comfortable,
> they are the same as when I bought them.
>
> My wife bought me a cheaper set a little while back, and they are in the
> trash.
What did you like/not like about the two set in comparison to one
another ?
I'm hopelessly naive, I know, but assuming the steel is "good" (fine
grained, well tempered, sturdy cross section), everything else is in the
grind and the handles, isn't it ?
-Mark
Steve Tiedman
Yes, initial setup of your tooling is going to cost a bit more, but I would
suggest you do get what you pay for with tools.
I (and everyone else) was in your same boat 6 years ago. When I bought my
first lathe, a Sears lathe which is now the one sold at Home Depot, I bought
the set of 4 Sears turning tools; parting tool, 1/2" round nose scraper, 1/2"
skew, and a gouge that was so poorly designed it could not be used for
anything other than a tent stake. The other 3 I still have, although they are
now supplemented by tools from Sorby, Crown, and Henry Taylor "Artisan"
("Artisan" avail. from Craft Supplies only, the regular Henry Taylor are
avail. from other sources, too).
As others have suggested, I would look into the Artisan line of Henry Taylor's
from Craft Supplies. Taylor makes great turning tools, and the Artisan line
is the same tool, just not as finely finished (metal surfaces not highly
polished) as the standard Taylor line.
I would also really look into the Crown line of tools, as Brad Thomas has
suggested and will be selling from his website. Crown is making some fine
woodturning tools, I've got a few of each of their standard HSS turning tools
and their upgraded steel Pro-PM line. I really like the Crowns, they are easy
to sharpen, hold an edge well, and are well priced. Not to knock Brad at all,
especially for getting a small business off the ground which I applaud and
fully support, but if you want to see Crown tools in a picture, Woodcraft
sells (as far as I know) pretty much their entire line and you can compare
them right to Sorby which they also sell. But if Brad has the better prices
'cuz he doesn't have a full color paper catalog, get these tools from Brad.
Another thing that sets Crown apart, and some people may not be too keen on
this, is that some of their handles can be rather short-ish. I only have one
tool (3/4" roughing gouge) of theirs that would have one of these shorter
handles, but I like the feel of it in my hand and how easy it is to control.
The trade off is the basic leverage effect that a longer handle provides.
But, honest to God, tool handles for turning tools is probably the most
overlooked aspect of turning by both manufacturers and us turners alike. I've
seen and read people discount a particular brand of tool all because of the
handles! Dumb. Don't judge a turning tools by its handle, only buy its steel
blade. The wood tool handle only accounts for a couple $3-4 of the tool
price. Tool handle making is "day 1" of any good turning class and in the old
days, apprenticeship programs. Don't ever discount a tool because of its
handle, if you don't like the handle but have faith in the tool, buy the tool
and make your own handle, to the length and diameter that fits for you! Jeez,
they sell Glaser tools unhandled because some people don't want that
fancy-pants lead filled aluminum handle which costs as much to make as some
well made standard issue tools from Sorby, Crown, Taylor, etc.
(Off my soap box now...) Avoid "sets" of turning tools. They most often have
tools you will regularly use, but they may have a couple tools that are more
limited in function or won't get used very often. If you want a good basic
set that will do basic turning for basic bowls and spindles, this is what I'd
suggest, and this list can certainly be tweaked to fit your needs or tools
added to or removed from this list: (Lots of basics here, but like I've been
telling people for a long time, the basic tools are what you will be using for
probably 90% of your turning from here on out until the day you no longer
turn.)
*Roughing gouge, either 3/4" or 1-1/4", depending on how big the stuff is you
need to rough down. I have both, and the 3/4" roughing gouge does everything
I can fit onto my Jet mini. Price, and handle length, may be the only
differences between them. Now that I've got a big heavy duty lathe, too, I'll
probably be reaching for the 1-1/4" roughing gouge a bit more often.
*1/2" spindle gouge, with 3/8" and 1/4" spindle gouges being bought later as
needed or desired. The 1/2" spindle gouge can also do some light roughing
work.
*3/8" bowl gouge, with 1/2" (for big bowl work) and 1/4" bowl gouge bought
later as needed or desired. I have both the 3/8" and 1/2" bowl gouges, and
use both. I can also use the 1/2" bowl gouge for light roughing work because
of its heavier mass. Personally, I see no need for any bowl gouge bigger than
1/2", and they don't come that much bigger anyway. A 1/2" bowl gouge can do a
lot of cutting to a piece of wood, and if you used improperly, it can be a
real animal to hold onto.
*Parting tool, style and width your choice, they all do the same thing. I
recommend a "diamond shape" profile, which helps control the deep cuts this
tool makes.
*1" skew chisel, with other sizes bought later as needed or desired. Skews
are wonderful tools, but take a bit of learning to use correctly, and a 1"
skew will treat you right. Smaller skews are only good for very small stuff,
but a 1" skew is very versatile, it can do larger stuff and small stuff, too.
Personally, I would not buy the "oval" shape skews. They remove too much
steel from the tool body to make the oval shape reducing the heft and strength
of the tool. Buy the standard rectangular profile skews to maintain tool
strength, then grind a radius on the bottom and top long edges of the tool so
it will move across the tool rest with knicking the tool rest. Skews can
sometimes be used laying flat on their sides to act as a sort of scraper, and
to do this properly and safely, the rectangular shape is what you want- the
oval shape will allow the tool to roll on its side, which can cause you
problems. The oval skews are getting more prevalent in the market, but Craft
Supplies has the regular rectangular skews from Sorby and the Artisan has a
really good price, about $35 for the Artisan rectangular skew.
*3/4" round nose scraper, with other widths and profiles bought later as
needed or desired. Make sure any scraper has a blade thickness of at least
1/4" thick (scrapers are sold according to their width, not the blade
thickness), or thicker if possible. More $$ gets thicker blades. Scrapers
lay flat on the tool rest, and the thicker the blade, the less chance of
deflection of the tool which causes vibration and tearing of the wood fibers.
Crown (see Brian above) makes a few scrapers with 1/2" think blades!! Very
stout tool there. 3/8" thick blades are out there, too.
Here you go, my basic suggestions from the Craft Supplies Henry Taylor Artisan
line: (prices rounded up to nearest dollar, all tools are M2 high speed steel,
good stuff)
3/4" roughing gouge, 1/2" spindle gouge, 3/8" bowl gouge, diamond parting
tool, 1" skew, and 3/4" round nose scraper = $191. Crown, Sorby, and standard
Henry Taylor tools (all high speed steel- HSS) will cost a bit more per tool.
$191 for 6 tools, that averages about $32 per tool. How much did you spend on
the lathe? Did you buy a chuck? (Another unnecessary option, but sure nice
to have down the road.) Do you have a grinder to keep things sharp? Do you
have a tool to cut blanks of wood (bandsaw or whatever)? At $32 per tool,
turning tools are a bargain as tools go for lathe work.
You could get the cheapy set of 5 or 6 or 8 or however many come in a set from
the far east for $20 per set, but will the steel be as good? Doubtful. Will
the profile of the tools (not the factory ground blade edge) be as refined and
useful as the name brand tools? I don't know, I've never bought these cheap
tools. It only hurts once, as the saying goes. Get the better tools and you
will be happy right from the get-go, instead of having to pay twice for your
mistakes made in the beginning.
Want to go really cheap? Buy only the spindle gouge, bowl gouge, and parting
tool I list above and learn how to use them, then add more tools as you need
them. Cost is under $100 for the 3.
Hope this helps you out. Feel free to contact me if you have any other
questions.
Steve.
--
Steve Tiedman
stevet...@qwest.net
St. Paul, MN, USA
remove "NOSPAM" from address line to reply
-----------------------------------------------
Lyn J. Mangiameli
comprehensive and helpful response.
Steve Tiedman wrote:
> <snip>
> I would also really look into the Crown line of tools, as Brad Thomas has
> suggested and will be selling from his website. Crown is making some fine
> woodturning tools, I've got a few of each of their standard HSS turning tools
> and their upgraded steel Pro-PM line. I really like the Crowns, they are easy
> to sharpen, hold an edge well, and are well priced.
Yes, Crown is making tools at least the equal of Sorby and Henry Taylor and has a
basic array of tools that is equally wide, as well as making many special tools
the others don't. For example 1/2 thick (not wide, thick) scrapers, the Chinese
ball tools, a mushroom tool, etc. Unfortunately, it is hard to find their
complete line of tools form any single source.
> Not to knock Brad at all,
> especially for getting a small business off the ground which I applaud and
> fully support, but if you want to see Crown tools in a picture, Woodcraft
> sells (as far as I know) pretty much their entire line and you can compare
> them right to Sorby which they also sell. But if Brad has the better prices
> 'cuz he doesn't have a full color paper catalog, get these tools from Brad.
Also look to Packard http://www.packardwoodworks.com/ Who offers most of the
Crown line (along with Sorby, Hamlet, Oneway and Glaser). One of the nice things
Packard does in their catalog for the Sorby tools is show a cross section drawing
of the tool, which can be very handy for the less experienced.
> <snip>
> But, honest to God, tool handles for turning tools is probably the most
> overlooked aspect of turning by both manufacturers and us turners alike.
Yes, but then you discount why this is important.
> I've
> seen and read people discount a particular brand of tool all because of the
> handles! Dumb. Don't judge a turning tools by its handle, only buy its steel
> blade. The wood tool handle only accounts for a couple $3-4 of the tool
> price. Tool handle making is "day 1" of any good turning class and in the old
> days, apprenticeship programs. Don't ever discount a tool because of its
> handle, if you don't like the handle but have faith in the tool, buy the tool
> and make your own handle, to the length and diameter that fits for you! Jeez,
> they sell Glaser tools unhandled because some people don't want that
> fancy-pants lead filled aluminum handle which costs as much to make as some
> well made standard issue tools from Sorby, Crown, Taylor, etc.
Wrong. Jerry Glaser sells unhandled shafts to allow people who have previously
bought his tools to save money by replacing only the worn down shaft instead of
the whole tool. Some suppliers even note the shafts are for replacement use in
the Glaser handles only. If you observe carefully, many of his tool shafts, such
as the 1 inch scraper, the skews, and the parting tool do not lend themselves to
being placed in a wooden handle at all. That "fancy-pants" tool handle has lead
shot to reduce vibration and allow for better balance of the tool, the handles
are anodized and shot peened for a comfortable grip and long life, the mouldings
of the handle allow for a secure grip. You can tailor the amount of lead shot to
achieve the balance you want, replace it with sand, or use none at all (though I
find them near perfect as they come). While not the perfect handle design for all
tastes, it is definitely one of the very best and most adaptable handles on the
market (and is actually less costly, when compared between handled and unhandled
Glaser tools, than the Oneway or Hamlet metal handles). What makes a Glaser tool
so special is not simply the tool steel he uses, or his grinds, or his chosen
dimensions, or his handles, rather it is the near perfect integration of all of
these factors. Glaser, did not overlook handle design, as you take the previous
manufacturers to task for doing so in your previous comment.
>
> *3/8" bowl gouge, with 1/2" (for big bowl work) and 1/4" bowl gouge bought
> later as needed or desired. I have both the 3/8" and 1/2" bowl gouges, and
> use both. I can also use the 1/2" bowl gouge for light roughing work because
> of its heavier mass. Personally, I see no need for any bowl gouge bigger than
> 1/2", and they don't come that much bigger anyway. A 1/2" bowl gouge can do a
> lot of cutting to a piece of wood, and if you used improperly, it can be a
> real animal to hold onto.
For a mini lathe, you are probably right. But with bigger wood, bigger lathes,
and more powerful motors, this does not hold. Crown, Henry Taylor, Oneway, and
Glaser all offer larger sized bowl gouges. David Ellsworth believes the 5/8 inch
bowl gouge is the perfect size, offering the best combination of mass behind the
edge and size of tip. I tend to agree for medium to large forms. I also have a
3/4 Glaser and wouldn't trade it for anything. It is my primary roughing out
tool. (Beware that bowl gouges are measured differently between US/Canadian
manufacturers and the English tool makers--the former give sizes based on the
external diameter or the steel shaft, the latter by the width of the flute).
> *Parting tool, style and width your choice, they all do the same thing. I
> recommend a "diamond shape" profile, which helps control the deep cuts this
> tool makes.
Yes
> *1" skew chisel, with other sizes bought later as needed or desired. Skews
> are wonderful tools, but take a bit of learning to use correctly, and a 1"
> skew will treat you right. Smaller skews are only good for very small stuff,
> but a 1" skew is very versatile, it can do larger stuff and small stuff, too.
> Personally, I would not buy the "oval" shape skews. They remove too much
> steel from the tool body to make the oval shape reducing the heft and strength
> of the tool. Buy the standard rectangular profile skews to maintain tool
> strength, then grind a radius on the bottom and top long edges of the tool so
> it will move across the tool rest with knicking the tool rest.
Hamlet, Glaser, and Henry Taylor among others all made radius (rounded) edge
skews. They are available through most suppliers, such as Packard
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/ and The Cutting Edge
http://www.cuttingedgetools.com The Cutting Edge has a good comparison picture
of the different kinds of skews in the catalog and a somewhat less comprehensive
picture on their website. By the way, Cutting Edge shows probably the most
comprehensive selection of Henry Taylor tools found anywhere. All in all, it is
much easier, particularly for a beginner, to buy a radiused edge skew than make
you own consistent radius.
Overall, I strongly agree with Steve in his comments that fewer high quality
tools are far better to start with than many lesser quality tools. I personally
think for a minimal kit, you would do better with one good swept back bowl gouge,
one good spindle gouge and one good skew. Most people would include a parting
tool, but frankly if wood is cheaper for you than tools, you can go a long way
with the skew and a cheap hand saw that you probably already have.
Lyn
Steve Tiedman
Yup, you're right.
I guess fancy pants was a bit strong for Jerry's handles. I don't own any, but I
have used them on many occasions in a friend's shop. For me, though, I'm just not
fond of the weight of his handled tools, nor the profile of the grip (texture or
shape), nor holding a metal handle. My rear hand is forced to do more work, gripping
a heavier handle. I agree, Jerry sure did not overlook the design of these handles.
On the contrary, he stepped outside the envelope with his tool handles.
As Soren Berger (sp?) explained in his talk at the AAW symposium last week, it's not
necessarily the weight of the handle that makes it right for the user, as much as it
is the gripping profile (i.e. changes in diameter along the shaft) that fits the
users hand and the length that allows a leverage effect. He compared the tool handle
length to the rudder handle on a small sailboat. A longer handle, held out somewhere
near the end of the tool, allows that hand to make larger, more controlled movements
at one end of the tool resulting in precise control at the other end (cutting end) of
the tool. This has nothing to do with the material the handle is made from nor the
weight of the handle. Personally, I'd rather have a solid, light weight handle of
the appropriate length (judgement call there every time) and appropriate grip
dimension for my hand. That said, I have yet to actually make any handles for tools
that came supplied with them. For the few tools I have bought unhandled (homemade
hollowing tools) I made handles of the appropriate grip size for me and they have
worked very well. If I were to buy Glaser tools, I'd buy them unhandled, price
having nothing to do with it, and make my own wood handles.
Now, as manufactured tools handles go, I think Crown has done a very nice job on the
shape of their tool handles. I guess I have a pretty typical hand size for a man,
and Crown handles fit me well, a bit better than Sorby. Taylor, and the Artisan
line, have handles that are really quite straight, and somewhat too small in diameter
for my hand. With the changing grip diameter of the Crown, my hand seems to know
just where to grip depending on how the tool is being used, maybe adding more sensory
perception and a more controled cut.
I've known a couple fellas that bought Glasers tool shafts deliberately and made
their own wood handles. Again, that is the way I'd buy his tools, and I applaude him
for allowing that option.
Those Crown 1/2" thick scrapers from crown are on my list to own.
"Lyn J. Mangiameli" wrote:
> Just some general comments on some of Steve's remarks in his overall very
> comprehensive and helpful response.
>
> Steve Tiedman wrote:
>
> >
> > *3/8" bowl gouge, with 1/2" (for big bowl work) and 1/4" bowl gouge bought
> > later as needed or desired. I have both the 3/8" and 1/2" bowl gouges, and
> > use both.
>
> For a mini lathe, you are probably right. But with bigger wood, bigger lathes,
> and more powerful motors, this does not hold.
True, but I don't know what lathe Karl is turning on, a mini or something bigger.
Going off his brief post, I'm assuming he is knew to the craft, and I'm doubtful he
is turning on something large. I'm guessing he is on something from a mini up to the
typical 12"x36" lathe. If I'm right, I don't think he would really need anyting
bigger that a 1/2" bowl gouge. He's the one that said he doesn't want to spend the
bigger money. The bigger bowl gouges will sure cost him that. Karl's particular
needs is what I was trying to address, not to be all inclusive in the tools
available.
> Overall, I strongly agree with Steve in his comments that fewer high quality
> tools are far better to start with than many lesser quality tools. I personally
> think for a minimal kit, you would do better with one good swept back bowl gouge,
> one good spindle gouge and one good skew. Most people would include a parting
> tool, but frankly if wood is cheaper for you than tools, you can go a long way
> with the skew and a cheap hand saw that you probably already have.
>
> Lyn
Lyn, after seeing Soren use and explain blunt nose (traditional grind) bowl gouges,
I'm thinking really hard about buying a couple new bowl gouges and having these kinds
of cutting edges, to suppliment my long fingernial grind gouges. But that's another
discussion...
Karl, as you can see, there are tons of different ideas out there, and all of them
work. You'll find, with time, what really does and does not work for you. Don't be
affraid to try different things. Look at me and Lyn, afterall. We're like brothers
with each other (I'm younger!), and we have different ideas, but many of the same,
too.
Happy turning, Karl.
Fred Holder
if. However, the mention of the 1/2" square round nose scraper from Crown makes
me feel like commenting. I brought one home with me from St. Paul. It works
beautifully. I simply had to turn one of those bowls on the bias and reached a
point where I couldn't swing the gouge enough to cut across the bottom. I
sharpened the 1/2 inch round nose and reached down there. It cut very well, no
vibration and the smaller radius allowed for better control. I'm convinced that
Crown has a winner here.
Fred Holder
<fr...@fholder.com>
In article <3B50D6EE...@qwest.net>, Steve says...
Steve Tiedman
Yeah, I think I'll have to put one or two of those big boys on the wish list.
It was nice meeting you in St. Paul, hope I have the pleasure again sometime.
Steve.
--
Steve Tiedman
stevet...@qwest.net
St. Paul, MN, USA
remove "NOSPAM" from address line to reply
-----------------------------------------------
Lyn J. Mangiameli
I like you much better than I would any sibling, though I guess older brother is better
then the reference somebody made to me a few months ago as an old fart.
It is interesting to note the wide variance in people's handle preferences. I have one
or two of every tool Jerry has made (except for that 6 foot boring bar) and love every
one of them. Those tools that won't fit into a Glaser handle, mostly hollowing tools,
almost always go into a steel Hamlet or Oneway handle, if they don't go into a Stewart
Armbrace. Even in the other steel handles, I look for ways to weight them by inserting
steel rod. Of the things I still have wooden handles on, I vastly prefer the Sorby
handles to the ones Craft Supplies puts on their Henry Taylors. The Crowns come midway
between for me. For me a big heavy chunk of metal on one end (say a Sorby 3/8 x 1.5 inch
radiused scraper) and a light weight wood handle on the other is the height of an
unbalanced tool, but , as you point out, for some it seems preferable. Go figure.
I'm sure that such preferences result as much from accumulated experience with one sort
or another, as it even does with hand size, muscle strength, forearm length, style of
tool presentation (I really try, but I'm never all that delicate), and lathe height.
Glasers seem to elicit stronger opinions than most, both better and worse. Since so many
personal variables are involved, it is unlikely that any woodworking guru can really
tell others what is technically the best handle or what characteristics are the most
important. Though I would note that only Glaser has put any significant attention into
using the tool handle to dissipate vibration.
BTW, Soren ain't ever getting me to move away from my swept back gouge tips. Just give
me a Glaser 5/8 inch swept back V15 gouge and a good diamond hone and put me on a
deserted island and I'll be able to build a pole lathe, turn wood, spear fish, kill and
butcher animals, protect myself and even shave if I have the interest. You can also pass
on to Soren that his little hollowing tool really works well since I put it in a Glaser
Handle.
As I believe John Fedorjaka once commented to me, I'd buy a Glaser machete if he offered
one.
Lyn
Pam Niedermayer
cuttingedgetools, but can't seem to find a Glaser Hi-Tec site.
Thanks,
Pam
"Lyn J. Mangiameli" wrote:
> ...
>
> I'm sure that such preferences result as much from accumulated experience with one sort
> or another, as it even does with hand size, muscle strength, forearm length, style of
> tool presentation (I really try, but I'm never all that delicate), and lathe height.
> Glasers seem to elicit stronger opinions than most, both better and worse. Since so many
> personal variables are involved, it is unlikely that any woodworking guru can really
> tell others what is technically the best handle or what characteristics are the most
> important. Though I would note that only Glaser has put any significant attention into
> using the tool handle to dissipate vibration.
>
> BTW, Soren ain't ever getting me to move away from my swept back gouge tips. Just give
> me a Glaser 5/8 inch swept back V15 gouge and a good diamond hone and put me on a
> deserted island and I'll be able to build a pole lathe, turn wood, spear fish, kill and
> butcher animals, protect myself and even shave if I have the interest. You can also pass
> on to Soren that his little hollowing tool really works well since I put it in a Glaser
> Handle.
>
> As I believe John Fedorjaka once commented to me, I'd buy a Glaser machete if he offered
> one.
>
> Lyn
>...
--
Pamela G. Niedermayer
Pinehill Softworks Inc.
600 W. 28th St., Suite 103
Austin, TX 78705
512-236-1677
http://www.pinehill.com
Lyn J. Mangiameli
Alas, no. Jerry is in his 80s and doesn't seem to have developed an interest in the computer
thing. He doesn't have any email either. I do have his address and phone number if you should
want to contact him directly, but they aren't in front of me now, so ping me again if you'd
like them.
Packard Woodworks is probably the largest supplier of Glaser Tools. Brad keeps a fairly good
stock and can often arrange drop shipment straight from Jerry if he doesn't have something.
Cutting Edge tools has by far the best listing of Glaser tools, though there are slight
differences between what they show on their website and what is in their catalog.
Craft Supplies seems to be phasing out their sale of Glaser. Each catalog shows fewer tools
(and the website fewer still), and the Glaser backorder situation with them has sometimes
been horrendous.
Woodcrafters of Oklahoma also say they offer Glaser tools but I haven't ever bought any from
them.
Just a quick note on my use of a Glaser Handle on the Berger tool, Jerry doesn't sell his
handles separately.
BTW, though in his 80s, Jerry remains very active in many aspects of woodturning in addition
to making his tools. He recently was a financial sponsor of the Bob Stocksdale exhibit 88
turnings for 88 years, and still writes ocassional articles on tool use, sharpening, and
grinding wheels.
Lyn
Andrew Barss
: Hi Pam,
: Alas, no. Jerry is in his 80s
Is there a successor in line to keep on making his tools? They're
on my wish list, but I'll move 'em up if he's a strictly one-man operation.
-- Andy Barss
Lyn J. Mangiameli
about that sort of thing. I have heard he has tried to involve his son (can't
imagine how old he must be) in the business, but I'm not sure that worked out.
I've heard several people and/or companies are interested in taking the
operation over (I know directly from Tom, that L-N has interest, or at least
that they used to), but Jerry has no interest in selling. Maybe when he turns
90 ;-) By the way, I used to do research with older veterans, it's amazing
how active some of them are in their 80's, some looked like and acted like
you'd expect from someone in their early 60s. Matter of fact, the best
neuropathologist I ever had the honor of working with was 83 and had more
stamina than most of the residents she was training.
Anyway, don't consider me a reliable source about Jerry's personal life or
business decisions. Most of what I know about him has been gained second hand.
Brad Packard probably has more direct contact than anyone else I know.
Still, there is a reason why I have two of many of his tools.
Lyn
John Jordan
house. The corporate delivery vehicle is a Toyota station wagon. The parts
of his tools are sub-contracted to people he trusts to do the work the right
way, and he picks up parts assembles, sharpens and ships.
He's a very interesting man. I try to visit with him whenever I'm in Socal.
John Jordan
--
www.stubbylathe.com
Lyn J. Mangiameli <kuma...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:3B51E930...@earthlink.net...
Steve Tiedman
Seems your message generated quite a bit of discussion (Good Job!!), but after
it all, I must ask- did you get the information you were looking for?
Tangents were a'taken on this thread, for sure, but did you get from it what
you needed?
Boy, maybe now you're going to go and order up a fleet of Jerry Glaser tools!
Better buy 'em quick!
Happy turning!
Steve.
--
Steve Tiedman
stevet...@qwest.net
St. Paul, MN, USA
remove "NOSPAM" from address line to reply
-----------------------------------------------
AaronA
Amazing what you can do with anodizing. The feel is excellent for me, as is
the overall design. But I'd never use them, because - I do all my turning in
the two carless UNHEATED garage. It's troublesome enough keeping my feet
warm in December, January, February, March, November, April. Did I mention
Winter? But trying to grip that aluminum heat sink is a little too much like
tongue to the pump handle (am I dating myself here?). I'd have to run the
risk of incurring the wrath of Lyn and put on more gloves than I already
wear, except, unlike Steve Worcester, mine have most of the fingers left on.
--
Aaron Gesicki
Sparta, Wisconsin
Coulee Country - 40 km from the Mississippi
AAW - Northeastern Wisconsin & Coulee Region
Northeastern Wisconsin Woodworkers Guild
Lyn J. Mangiameli
No wrath on my part. I'm the one who sometimes wears gloves. By the way, I've
heard that Richard Raffan sometimes finds the Glaser handles to become too hot
---not sure if that's from the heat of the Australian summers or the frantic
pace he keeps. I too like the colors, maybe we can get him to offer green and
purple as well, green for carbide tips and purple for special royalty editions
where he actually polishes the flute and hones the bevel. Maybe he could offer
a wood imitation finish for the wood handle die hards, and of course, a
camaflouge handle for that machete.
Lyn
Russell Seaton
Are the cutters replaceable on those pretty handles? Whenever I see
the Glaser tools I always think what a waste to throw away such a
pretty handle after the cutter is ground away. But I think the
handles do not come off.
Russell Seaton
"Lyn J. Mangiameli" <kuma...@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:<3B5365C2...@earthlink.net>...
Lyn J. Mangiameli
cutter replacements. The other tools the entire shaft is replaced. On some all you have to do is unbolt
them, on others you have to heat them up to remove the old shaft and glue in the new shaft. Except for a
production turner, with a light touch on the grinder you'll go a very very long time before you need to
replace a shaft. For the difference in tool cost between handles and unhandled, I'd probably still get a
new complete tool and use the old handle for another tool that came with those "primitive" wood handles,
or may to fit on that machete.
Lyn