Where can i buy
Sniperborg
Where can i buy ANCHORSEAL in the uk, or does it go by another name over
hear.
Can anyone surgest anything else for sealing the ends of logs, thats
avaiable in the uk
Thanks
Mark
--
Sniperborg
mes...@gmail.com
anything of the kind.
Peter Charles Fagg
Mark, I have tried searching on the net for Anchorseal before and
no-one appears to supply over here.
Nevertheless may I suggest your using "End Seal" from Chestnut Products
or if you have access to heat, melt ordinary wax (from discarded candle
stubs)and dip the ends of the logs into the hot wax for several
seconds, this is very effective. (Dependant on the diameters of
course) Failing that any oil based paint can be used, if you have odd
tins lying around somewhere this is an ideal way to make use of it
rather than throwing it away!
In my experience (15) years, I have used the "End Seal" for the
majority but the hot wax is by far the best but please be careful.
Regards,
Peter Charles Fagg
Freshwater, Isle of Wight,
www.petersplatters.co.uk
Each can do but little!
But if each DID that little,
ALL would be done!
George
"Sniperborg" <Sniperbo...@diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:Sniperbo...@diybanter.com...
>
> Where can i buy ANCHORSEAL in the uk, or does it go by another name over
> hear.
> Can anyone surgest anything else for sealing the ends of logs, thats
> avaiable in the uk
>
It's water-emulsion wax. In the US military it was extremely important to
show buff marks on floors, so it was used in preference to acrylics, which
could not be buffed - yours might be dumb enough to believe the same. You
may also find it at janitorial supply houses. Since the wax contains less
solids than the Anchorseal, two coats advised.
Of course, if you took canning wax, water, a non-ionic surfactant to keep it
in suspension, and a bit of alcohol to keep it from growing mold, combined
the ingredients in a big blender and whipped it to a foam ... you'd have an
angry spouse, but a suitable substitute.
Sniperborg
Thanks for the replys.
The old paint and candle wax seems good while i clear up old stock.
Then the end seal will come into play
Mark
--
Sniperborg
skje...@btinternet.com
and he used it on his rough turnings.I have used it on blanks as
well.You can also water it down.
Just another idea, hope it is of some use.
Michael
Mark Hancock
Mobilicer C.
--
Mark Hancock
http://www.markhancock.co.uk
Home tel: +44 (0) 1905 820815
Mobile tel: +44 (0) 7747 195404
"George" <George@least> wrote in message
news:43524...@newspeer2.tds.net...
Crewood
The product "End Seal" Peter referred to is available from Chestnut
Products here in the UK, they also have overseas distributors so it may
also be available in Israel as well.
If you look at
http://www.chestnutproducts.co.uk/results.asp?cat=Wood%20Treatments you
can see the End Seal, it's simply painted onto the ends of freshly cut
timber and slows down the evaporation process to help prevent the ends
splitting.
Regards....Mike Swain RPT
www.creative-woodturning.com
Sniperborg
Mark Hancock Wrote:
> The water-emulsion wax over here in the UK is sold by Mobil under the
> name
> Mobilicer C.
>
>
> anyone you sells it. Can you send a link please
>
> TIA
> Mark
--
Sniperborg
Chuck
<peterf...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>In my experience (15) years, I have used the "End Seal" for the
>majority but the hot wax is by far the best but please be careful.
Your results are interesting. I have a friend in the lumber business
who buys and sells a great deal of exotics. When he receives them
from wherever, they are invariably treated with the hot wax method,
rather than with Anchorseal. Sadly, I have seen him loose thousands
of dollars worth of inventory to severe checking, during the hot
summer months (and by hot, I mean 80-100 degrees F).
If he was able to scrape off the wax and anchorseal the pieces before
they started to check, he was able to save those that were, but
otherwise, the hot-waxed pieces showed an alarming tendency to crack,
particularly if there was the slightest scratch in the wax. AAMOF,
you could see checks radiating out from scratches in the wax.
My personal theory is that the Anchorseal and similar products work
better because, being an emulsion of wax, rather than straight wax,
they work on a microscopic level, better filling pores before the
water evaporates and inhibiting rapid drying, unlike thicker hot wax
or paint applications, which just coat the whole thing over and
contain microscopic bubbles and holes to allow drying. I'm sure local
humidity has a lot to do with this, too.
--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.
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George
"Chuck" <chaz391...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:43552aac...@news.capital.net...
> On 16 Oct 2005 04:01:36 -0700, "Peter Charles Fagg"
> <peterf...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>
>>In my experience (15) years, I have used the "End Seal" for the
>>majority but the hot wax is by far the best but please be careful.
>
> Your results are interesting. I have a friend in the lumber business
> who buys and sells a great deal of exotics. When he receives them
> from wherever, they are invariably treated with the hot wax method,
> rather than with Anchorseal. Sadly, I have seen him loose thousands
> of dollars worth of inventory to severe checking, during the hot
> summer months (and by hot, I mean 80-100 degrees F).
Millions of board feet of lumber pass on the main road a mile from my house
each year. None are end sealed.
Birdseye logs the Japanese rent a helicopter to lift out of the woods aren't
end sealed, and there's a good-sized investment there.
I think your friend isn't stacking and storing his lumber properly. Or his
profit margin is such that it's uneconomical to do so.
Owen Lowe
wrote:
> > Your results are interesting. I have a friend in the lumber business
> > who buys and sells a great deal of exotics. When he receives them
> > from wherever, they are invariably treated with the hot wax method,
> > rather than with Anchorseal. Sadly, I have seen him loose thousands
> > of dollars worth of inventory to severe checking, during the hot
> > summer months (and by hot, I mean 80-100 degrees F).
>
> Millions of board feet of lumber pass on the main road a mile from my house
> each year. None are end sealed.
>
> Birdseye logs the Japanese rent a helicopter to lift out of the woods aren't
> end sealed, and there's a good-sized investment there.
>
> I think your friend isn't stacking and storing his lumber properly. Or his
> profit margin is such that it's uneconomical to do so.
George, the lumber passing by your house is likely going to be milled in
relatively short order as well as is not required to be defect free if
it's intended for the construction market. Here in Oregon the logs in
the mill's yard may not be end sealed, but they have water sprayed on
them continuously during the hot and dry summer months.
I'm sure you're aware that the tropical woods tolerate much smaller
swings in humidity than the temperate woods before end checking occurs -
perhaps there's a relationship to the variations in relative humidity
these trees grow in in their natural environmental. Perhaps it's only a
matter of density and brittleness. What ever it is, it certainly exists
and that's what Chuck's friend is dealing with - tropical "exotics".
(Do woodworkers in Brazil, Africa, Thailand, Australia, etc. consider
American Black Walnut, Cherry and Maple to be exotics?)
--
Owen Lowe
Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Pour your end-grain sealer into a clean, wide-mouth
clothes detergent bottle. The lid makes a handy dipping container for
your brush and the leftovers will drain back into the bottle when you
recap the jug.
Peter Charles Fagg
Sadly, I have seen him loose thousands
> of dollars worth of inventory to severe checking, during the hot
> summer months (and by hot, I mean 80-100 degrees F).
Chuck, it would be very nice to experience temperatures like these in
the UK. Likewise high humidity is likely only to be of the summer
rain!
Seriously though, here in the UK if the logs are allowed to sizzle a
little in the wax they tend to be OK, plus all the timber I treat loses
at least 4 inches off the ends before I start turning so as to remove
the majority of cracked section.
The other alternative is not to store it too long and use it before
getting some more!
Thanks anyway for the reply,
Regards,
Peter Charles Fagg
Freshwater, Isle of Wight,
United Kingdom.
George
"Owen Lowe" <onln...@easystreet.com> wrote in message
news:onlnlowe-C403C7...@corp.supernews.com...
>> Millions of board feet of lumber pass on the main road a mile from my
>> house
>> each year. None are end sealed.
>>
>> Birdseye logs the Japanese rent a helicopter to lift out of the woods
>> aren't
>> end sealed, and there's a good-sized investment there.
>>
>> I think your friend isn't stacking and storing his lumber properly. Or
>> his
>> profit margin is such that it's uneconomical to do so.
>
> George, the lumber passing by your house is likely going to be milled in
> relatively short order as well as is not required to be defect free if
> it's intended for the construction market. Here in Oregon the logs in
> the mill's yard may not be end sealed, but they have water sprayed on
> them continuously during the hot and dry summer months.
>
> I'm sure you're aware that the tropical woods tolerate much smaller
> swings in humidity than the temperate woods before end checking occurs -
> perhaps there's a relationship to the variations in relative humidity
> these trees grow in in their natural environmental. Perhaps it's only a
> matter of density and brittleness. What ever it is, it certainly exists
> and that's what Chuck's friend is dealing with - tropical "exotics".
>
> (Do woodworkers in Brazil, Africa, Thailand, Australia, etc. consider
> American Black Walnut, Cherry and Maple to be exotics?)
First, where I live is primarily hardwood country. We fell it, mill it,
peel it for veneer, or sometimes kiln it before it leaves here for final
use. It is not end sealed, because the benefit of the seal isn't worth the
trouble of applying it. This holds true in all stages. End checks are
largely self-limiting, originating as they do from differential drying
rates. When the end grain dries to the point of breaking the capillary
draw, it forms a barrier to rapid loss from further in the interior.
Tropical hardwoods are made of cellulose, just as our domestic hardwoods,
and are subject to the same process when losing bound water. So you're as
far off base in the assumption that tropical woods are different in the way
they lose water as you were in assuming what happened to the wood around me.
There is a difference, of course in the way wood is laid down. Ring-porous
woods like red oak hold water inside for long periods of time. Some
tropical woods are also structured identically, and have the same property.
If handled properly, they will not be subject to drying loss, nor will the
red oak. Those with diffuse-porous structure behave more like their
counterparts here.
Since the friend has a choice of climate control -that's what coating does,
control the "climate" - or drying degrade, we may, I think properly assume
that the reason he allows the degrade is that it would cost more to reduce
it than the selling price justifies, just as is the case here.
Wood technology is a fine course of study for turners. A good place to
begin is the FPL wood handbook I continually encourage people here to read.
Chuck
<onln...@easystreet.com> wrote:
>In article <43562...@newspeer2.tds.net>, "George" <George@least>
>wrote:
>> Millions of board feet of lumber pass on the main road a mile from my house
>> each year. None are end sealed.
>> I think your friend isn't stacking and storing his lumber properly. Or his
>> profit margin is such that it's uneconomical to do so.
Yeah George, he probably doesn't know what he's doing. He only sells
millions of dollars worth of lumber a year. It must hurt to have
such a big brain in your head. (Yet another reason you're in my
filter.)
>George, the lumber passing by your house is likely going to be milled in
>relatively short order as well as is not required to be defect free if
>it's intended for the construction market. Here in Oregon the logs in
>the mill's yard may not be end sealed, but they have water sprayed on
>them continuously during the hot and dry summer months.
Exactly Owen. And I'm not talking about logs, but lumber, which I
already stated. Much of the stuff is chunks and blanks of things like
mopane, myrtle burl, eucalyptus burl, cocobolo, bocote, goncalo alves,
african blackwood, african olive, pau rosa, tulipwood, african wild
pear, tamboti, thuya burl, and the like. We're not talking maple, oak
and cherry. It's never kiln-dried, like domestic lumber, but air
dried. While he does carry kiln dried exotics, these are _not_ end
sealed, but then, being kiln dried, don't have to be.
>I'm sure you're aware that the tropical woods tolerate much smaller
>swings in humidity than the temperate woods before end checking occurs -
>perhaps there's a relationship to the variations in relative humidity
Indeed. He has had to switch suppliers several times because of
unreliable processing and having stuff shipped that is too wet.
They're just trying to move product, after all.
>these trees grow in in their natural environmental. Perhaps it's only a
>matter of density and brittleness. What ever it is, it certainly exists
>and that's what Chuck's friend is dealing with - tropical "exotics".
Trouble is, it is often hard to get management to deal with
prevention, like scraping off wax and applying anchorseal, until the
time comes to pay the piper...you know how business is.
>(Do woodworkers in Brazil, Africa, Thailand, Australia, etc. consider
>American Black Walnut, Cherry and Maple to be exotics?)
Actually, they kind of do. I swap wood with someone in Australia who
just loves to get their hands on things like maple and cherry, which
they've only seen in pictures.
Chuck
<peterf...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>Seriously though, here in the UK if the logs are allowed to sizzle a
>little in the wax they tend to be OK, plus all the timber I treat loses
>at least 4 inches off the ends before I start turning so as to remove
>the majority of cracked section.
I suspect that your higher year-round humidity has a very large part
to do with it. And it might work great for the exotics while they're
still in their country of origin, too, since they also "enjoy" greater
humidity, year-round.
>The other alternative is not to store it too long and use it before
>getting some more!
True enough, let the lumbermen deal with the storage problems!
Adrenalin
--
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