finish for redwood burl
por...@bellatlantic.net
been somewhat disappointing.
After sanding down to 600 grit, I finished it with Watco, with the intention of
completing the process using the Beal buffing system. I have used this method
on big leaf maple burl with very nice results, but am disappointed with the
redwood.
Can anyone suggest an alternate finishing method?
Bill Ranseen
applied to. Since redwood is dark to begin with and very porous it'll take
a lot of Watco and darken in proportion, ending very dark. For a lighter
finish you could use sanding sealer, varnish, shellac, etc. For a colored
finish that is meant to work with redwood, you could use one called
Penofin which is intended for an exterior finish on redwood, and comes in
various shades. I've used it a lot for redwood trim around my house. Only
drawback is that it outgasses in a pretty smelly sort of way: I leave
treated pieces outside for a few weeks before installing.
Paul T. Radovanic
redwood. The thing about redwood is that it drinks up the oil
endlessly. After the bowl sucked up about 4 coats of oil, I switched
to shellac, and it looked great.
My $0.02.
Paul
python
says...
>
>I've never worked with burl, but I have turned some bowls from
>redwood. The thing about redwood is that it drinks up the oil
>endlessly. After the bowl sucked up about 4 coats of oil, I switched
>to shellac, and it looked great.
>
>My $0.02.
>
>Paul
>
>por...@bellatlantic.net wrote:
>>I picked up some redwood burl to turn small clock cases, and my first piece has
>>been somewhat disappointing.
I use the Woodturners finish that you wipe on at slow speeds(friction finish0
this works very well with two coats with an alcohol wipe between coats. I
believe this is a shellac based product that dries quickly and has to be rubbed
carefully to avoid lap marks. It leaves the natural color with little darkening
give it a try. Available at Crafts Supplies and others. JZ
Martin H. Eastburn
Gift makers - to sell to visitors - use lacquor - There are spray
cans of lacquor - and clear - you want crystal non-yellowing if you
go for the varithane type materials.
Any oil will darken - It takes time. Best to have least on it as
possible.
Martin
--
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home on our computer old...@pacbell.net
Fred Holder
small bowls, and a bottle stopper or two. I used the 1/3 shellac, 1/3 alcohol,
and 1/2 boiled linseed oil. It penetrated good and buffed to a beautiful luster.
Fred Holder
<http://www.skagit.com/woodturning>
In article <35cc5aa...@news5.bellatlantic.net>, por...@bellatlantic.net
says...
>
>I picked up some redwood burl to turn small clock cases, and my first piece has
>been somewhat disappointing.
>
Love Child
spray) .Wipe on several coats in succession until all areas stop absorbing
finish, then wipe it down to remove excess, let dry and then buff with beall
system. It always works for me regardless of whether the wood is soft or
hard.
Herman de Vries
Fred Holder
have 2/3 of something made up, you can't add 1/2 to complete; should be, 1/3
shellac, 1/3 alcohol, and 1/3 boiled linseed oil. I use ready to apply shellac
and rubbing alcohol right off the grocery store shelf. I'm told it the alcohol
won't work, but it does for me.
Fred Holder
<http://www.skagit.com/woodturning>
In article <rBqz1.83$Ib2.6...@typhoon.mbnet.mb.ca>, he...@autobahn.mb.ca
says...
Rpturner
If you use the Deft and run into problems, as I did all too often, the lacquer
may be thinned as much as equal parts. It solved my problem of thickening in
some areas.
Kevin Miller
>
> Look's like I can't type either. Of course, anyone knows that if you already
> have 2/3 of something made up, you can't add 1/2 to complete; should be, 1/3
> shellac, 1/3 alcohol, and 1/3 boiled linseed oil. I use ready to apply shellac
> and rubbing alcohol right off the grocery store shelf. I'm told it the alcohol
> won't work, but it does for me.
You know Fred, I'm with you. I use some isopropyl alcohol - 91% if memory
serves - which is supposedly too wet but I get a fine finish. Not only that
but my shellac seems to last longer than its supposedto also. Just goes to
show you that shellac flakes can't read! Dang good thing...
...Kevin
Paul T. Radovanic
water won't cause any problems, up to about a 10% concentration. He
said that water is a byproduct of shellac's esterification process
anyway.
I've been special-ordering 99% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol from the
pharmacy. The cost is about US$15 for a gallon. It's safer than
denatured alcohol.
Paul
Robin J. Maxwell
>
> I've been special-ordering 99% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol from the
> pharmacy. The cost is about US$15 for a gallon. It's safer than
> denatured alcohol.
I assume it is the methyl alcohol which worries you. I checked the BATF
( http://www.atf.treas.gov/core/regulations/27cfrpart021.htm#21.126 )
and found that there are numerous formulas for denatured alcohol
including:
Sec. 21.32 Formula No. 1.
(a) Formula. To every 100 gallons of alcohol add:
Four gallons of methyl alcohol and either \1/8\ avoirdupois ounce of
denatonium benzoate, N.F., (BITREX); 1 gallon of methyl isobutyl ketone;
1 gallon of mixed isomers of nitropropane; or 1 gallon of methyl n-butyl
ketone.
(b) Authorized uses. (1) As a solvent:
013. Shellac coatings.
Sec. 21.37 Formula No. 3-C.
(a) Formula. To every 100 gallons of alcohol add:
Five gallons of isopropyl alcohol.
Sec. 21.47 Formula No. 23-A.
(a) Formula. To every 100 gallons of alcohol add:
Eight gallons of acetone, U.S.P.
(b) Authorized uses. (1) As a solvent:
013. Shellac coatings.
The interesting thing is that the formula with isopropyl alcohol does
NOT list shellac coatings as an authorized use. Only the manufacturer
can tell you which formula they use (they have to submit a form to
BATF), but it is not a sure thing that they use Formula 1 or this:
Sec. 21.35 Formula No. 3-A.
(a) Formula. To every 100 gallons of alcohol add:
Five gallons of methyl alcohol.
which also fails to list shellac as an authorized use. In fact only
formulas 1 and 23-A are listed as authorized for shellac coatings.
There doesn't seem to be a good reason for using anything other than
denatured alcohol (one labeled as suitable for shellac thinning) when
mixing shellac. These products are not necessarily more dangerous than
isopropyl alcohol. If you are worried about it, contact the
manufacturer for more info. They should be able to provide you with the
specific chemicals used.
Wm Zinsser suggests cleanup with Household ammonia in water which would
eliminate the need to clean your skin with DNA.
--
Robin
Opinions are my own. Who else would claim them?
Paul T. Radovanic
>> I've been special-ordering 99% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol from the
>> pharmacy. The cost is about US$15 for a gallon. It's safer than
>> denatured alcohol.
Robin J. Maxwell wrote:
>I assume it is the methyl alcohol which worries you. I checked the BATF
>( http://www.atf.treas.gov/core/regulations/27cfrpart021.htm#21.126 )
>and found that there are numerous formulas for denatured alcohol
>including:
<snip>
>There doesn't seem to be a good reason for using anything other than
>denatured alcohol (one labeled as suitable for shellac thinning) when
>mixing shellac. These products are not necessarily more dangerous than
>isopropyl alcohol. If you are worried about it, contact the
>manufacturer for more info. They should be able to provide you with the
>specific chemicals used.
Thanks for the informative post, Robin. Yeah, the methanol is what
worries me -- it's readily absorbed through the skin.
There is another reason for using 99% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol
besides the safety factor -- its evaporation rate is slightly slower.
That's more important when spraying, but I find it useful for wiping
as well.
While you may feel that there is no good reason to use the isopropyl,
there is no reason *not* to use it either. FWIW, I got the tip from
Jim McNamera on rec.ww. Jim is a third generation woodworker who
conducts finishing classes. Jeff Jewitt, author of the book "Hand
Applied Finishes" and numerous trade magazine articles, agrees with
the use of 99% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol for shellac. Personal
experience proves it to be effective.
The price is fair at $15/gallon, and I like the fact that I don't have
to worry about skin contact. It's also handy to have around for minor
cuts & scrapes. With denatured alcohol, I suppose I could ask the
manufacturer for the relevent info -- but I see no reason to bother
when the isopropyl does the job with no worries.
Paul
Robin J. Maxwell
>
> Yeah, the methanol is what
> worries me -- it's readily absorbed through the skin.
Its a good worry, that stuff if bad news and I didn't mean to imply in
any way that it wasn't reasonable to have concern.
>
> There is another reason for using 99% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol
> besides the safety factor -- its evaporation rate is slightly slower.
> That's more important when spraying, but I find it useful for wiping
> as well.
That's interesting. I can see how this would be beneficial.
>
> While you may feel that there is no good reason to use the isopropyl,
> there is no reason *not* to use it either. FWIW, I got the tip from
> Jim McNamera on rec.ww. Jim is a third generation woodworker who
> conducts finishing classes. Jeff Jewitt, author of the book "Hand
> Applied Finishes" and numerous trade magazine articles,
I have that book myself.
> Personal experience proves it to be effective.
That is what counts the most. I would be concerned with switching
alcohols since even though they are often solvents for the same thing,
their other properties may come into play unexpectedly. The experience
of the individuals you cite is pretty convincing though.
Howard Klepper
I haven't been able to get pieces the sizes you wanted, but I can come
fairly close. I have a 11x4.75" A grade blank (some wane on the edges
on one side that won't be a problem), and 5x5x7 AA grade blank that can
be turned in faceplate orientation for a bottle. Both have nice,
interesting grain. With your OK I'll ship them on thursday. I'd also
like to throw in gratis a piece of black acacia. It's a strong, dense,
dark brown wood that originally was Australian, and is grown a lot here
in California. It turns very well.
Howard
Howard Klepper
Martin H. Eastburn
some Scottish, some....Tenn........ oh that side of the store...
Seven Oaks Management
>
> Fred Holder wrote:
> >
> > Look's like I can't type either. Of course, anyone knows that if you already
> > have 2/3 of something made up, you can't add 1/2 to complete; should be, 1/3
> > shellac, 1/3 alcohol, and 1/3 boiled linseed oil. I use ready to apply shellac
> > and rubbing alcohol right off the grocery store shelf. I'm told it the alcohol
> > won't work, but it does for me.
>
> You know Fred, I'm with you. I use some isopropyl alcohol - 91% if memory
> serves - which is supposedly too wet but I get a fine finish. Not only that
> but my shellac seems to last longer than its supposedto also. Just goes to
> show you that shellac flakes can't read! Dang good thing...
>
--