Names or Terminology
Steve O'Neill
The topics of names and terminology are complex, and can be difficult to
discuss. Most of us probably just learned things as "given", and never
much have to consider what the terms and names that we use as "coin of the
realm" mean. I hope to clarify my thinking, understanding and use of
certain terms, by the following exposition.(longish)
It occurred to me that if we are limited to conversing sight-unseen about
a very visual and 3-D craft/artform, then we should try to be as exact as
possible in our verbal communications concerning this craft,
which I call - embroidery.
Helen, I'm not "picking on you", but your post got me thinking:
- - - - -
From Helen (hma...@firefly.prairienet.org)
>Date: 25 Jun 1994 01:29:01 GMT
>Subject: hardanger or pulled-thread stitching
>
>About Hardanger needlework (aka, pulled-thread) - I've done a few items
^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
(and later)
>Anyway, I thought I'd pass on some information about hardanger (pulled-thread)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
- - - - -
(Tania continues):
Let me say at the start that I, too, sometimes use names and terminology
loosely when speaking about embroidery, depending on the physical presence
of the person/people I'm talking with to clue them and me into the
accuracy of understanding we have as we converse.
But when we write... use care.
I propose to say that there are differences in the kinds of names we use
in talking about embroidery:
1) Names, Geographic, ethnic, etc. (appelations / designations) such as
"Hardanger" refer to a composite of techniques used in certain
combinations. These, taken together, usually define the character of
the total piece, and not just one detail of the design.
(Other such names may be Gobelein, Jacobean, Poltava ...)
I would like to use the terms "appellation", or "named".
2) Names, descriptive, are terms that relate to the stitching or stitch
executed in working a design with needle and thread.
I would like to call these types of names "terms".
These terms may be descriptive of anything, from a single stitch (one
"out-and-in" placement of the needle and thread) to a complex of
stitches which creates a recognized - and named - stitching.
(A single stitch might be called a" half-cross", while "four-sided" is
not really a stitch, but a stitching that creates a particular look.)
Technique is a term used to define how a stitch(ing) is worked.
Some stitchings appear to be the same as another when viewed
superficially, but the working technique is not the same, and can
make a difference in the final appearance. The wrong term for the
technique can lead to problems later on.
(Stitch is a term I use to mean a single stitch within a technique.)
-=- (Gad, will I never end) <:-] => Cheer up, not much farther to go.
Having said all the above, I would like to make the point that
Hardanger may use pulled-thread technique (as part of the design),
BUT
Pulled-thread technique is not Hardanger! and is not limited to
the kinds of designs found in Hardanger.
(In other words, wagons are vehicles, but vehicles are not just wagons.)
;-)
Terms are sometimes used interchangably, but if they do _not_ use the
same technique, they should be carefully questioned. For instance :
TENT-STITCH =/= (does not equal) HALF-CROSS stitch
Half-Cross-stitch uses a "parallel" stitch on the reverse, which
lies parallel to the threads of your evenweave fabric.
Tent-stitch uses a long diagonal stitch on the reverse, working in a
technique reminiscent of a large-scale diagonal backstitching.
Tent-stitch is also known as "petit-point".
In this case, the term "Tent-stitch" is more of a technique-descriptive
term, while "petit-point" is more of an appellation (naming how it looks).
Thanks for reading this person's thoughts and opinions.
All thoughtful responses welcome, but don't expect my response soon,
unless you e-mail me with "Personal"(and more) in the Subject line.
Regards,
Tania O'Neill <son...@netaxs.com>
=-=-=-=-= message ends =-=-=-=-=
Susan Profit
types, and have run into serious problems when researching as the same
names are often used for both!
In one the threads are withdrawn from the fabric, so I use (with)'drawn
thread or (with)'drawn fabric. This was how I was taught to diferentiate
it fro the distorted fabric work known as pulled thread/pulled fabric,
where no threads were removed, but the fabric was pulled out of shape
and position, giving you a lace effect.
However, I have seen and heard the differentiation on thread/fabric:
the stuff I call (with)'drawn thread is called pulled thread, and the
stuff I was taught to call pulled thread is called pulled fabric.
It can get even more confus9ng when you get into some of the ethnic
names for a type of working, as that may change over the years as well.
From my listing, I have over twenty names used to describe both
techniques, many are on both lists. BUt they are very different
techniques. And Hardanger is a subset of 'drawn work, that includes work
from such diverse areas as the Phillipines, India, Spain, Cyprus,
Norway, Sweden, Saharan Africa, and the UK. But, pulled work is also
spread around the world in diverse areas! And the two techniques are
frequently found on the same piece.
This makes researching without seeing good closeup photos or live
examples for close viewing nearly impossible. Author A & Author B may be
using the same term to describve very different work, or different terms
to describe the same museum piece. So simple text descriptions are
absolutely worthless, as are pictures taken from too far a distance from
a piece. I have not found any terminology that is consistantfor these
techniques, even in the same country in books written at the same time.
@}->- :) Tinne Laughter Heals :D -<-{@
Steve O'Neill
(In-Reply-To: ti...@eskimo.com (Susan Profit) (~July 5, 1994, late pm)
My experience seems rather parallel to yours, Susan, and not just in
pulled */* names of techniques, so I AGREE with you.
(I hope you don't need me to quote your posting (save space, etc.), but if
someone missed Susan's post and wants it, ask me e-mail.)
My basic perspective and direction is rather different from the average
counted-thread enthusiast, so I'm not a member of either the Counted-Thread
Society nor the EGA. But I did have a friend who was (EGA) and I got the
impression from reading their "Needle Arts" magazine that the EGA had
attempted to establish certain standard terminology.
If memory serves, EGA* used:
1."drawm work" for the work which only displaces the weave of the fabric
without any cutting,
2."cut-and-drawn work" for the work in which parallel (horizontal)
threads are cut, and the remaining (vertical) threads are overcast or
otherwise drawn into some pattern.
(this includes the simple "antique hemstitch" on up to complex overcastings.)
3."cut-work" for the work which cuts grouped threads (3,4,or more in a
group) (in specifically outlined shapes) both Horizontally and Vertically
(as in Hardanger designs).
Thus these are the terms which I used in "Ukrainian Embroidery Techniques",
and I remember looking for the EGA terminology at that time.
( * -> If anyone has specific information what EGA's terminology actually
is - if different from the above - PLEASE POST IT.
Opinion:
I believe that the reason for the confused and confusing terminology in
English is that we (English speakers) have borrowed and brought together
patterns and techniques from so many different ethnic sources. Probably,
with these came some terms or names for these stitchings, often
un-pronounceable. So it makes sense that these were "translated". Now
don't let me start on the usually inadequate results of such efforts,
especially in light of the fact that such translation is usually undertaken
by unqualified amateurs (which is normal and to be expected). :-)
(This is no flame; I have some understanding of this problem from personal
experience in two languages.)
Also, the people who know one (or several related) ethnic composite can
(might) basically and correctly translate the name for a technique (or a
stitching), but they most likely are unaware of another ethnic composite
which => basically translates to the same term *_in English_* as that other
ethnicity-name does, but the actual technical detail of the technique or
stitching is not the same.
Terms overlap (or diverge) even in the same country with the same language.
(Remember: We have only recently entered the era of massive travel and
communications, and ethnic differences exist even within countries and
national groups covering relatively small physical distances.)
That's what made it so much fun researching Ukrainian embroidery techniques!
(Ukraine, for example, is (physically) the second largest country in Europe,
with much variation in ethnic habitat, lifestyle, and circumstances.)
Thanks for your patience.
I keep reading, listening, and learning.
Tania <son...@netaxs.com) written off-line July 06, 1994 10pmEDT
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