HELP -- UNUSED BROTHER KNITTING MACHINE
Beth Day
just recently acquired an old knitting machine -- with no directions.
I don't even know what the pieces are!
It's a Brother KH-551.
If anyone has any instructions, PLEASE write back! My husband says if I
can't figure out how to use it, out it goes (yeah, like the tools HE
doesn't use :) )
HELP!
beth
Sue Conaway
I have an old Brother that I purchased second hand a
few years ago. I haven't really mastered it yet, but I
haven't given up. I'm not sure of the number but will
check and let you know. If it's close to your KH-551,
I would be happy to copy and send to you pages from my
manual. I'll get back to you later to tell you what I
have.
Sue
Beatrice Chambers
their address. Write to them asking for directions for that model. Might
work... Good luck. I am still knitting by hand but someday, I might opt
for a machine.
--
Bea
mvdmm
>manual.
>Beth Day <bd...@mail.midusa.net> wrote: <parts snipped>
>>just recently acquired an old knitting machine -- with no directions.
>>It's a Brother KH-551.
>>If anyone has any instructions, PLEASE write back!
>>beth
>>bd...@midusa.net
Maybe there's a number on Sue's manual that Beth could call to get
a copy of the proper manual?
--
The Sandown Zoo, currently featuring: Toby - Golden Retriever
Miss Kitty - Appaloosa; Rajah - Domestic Shorthair (so far...)
--------------------------------------------------------------
mv...@mvgsb.att.com
KnitnKittn
describe it, I can help you.
First, does it have buttons, or a punchcard or mylar reader?
2. Is it bulky or standard gauge - standard is 4.5mm between needles,
bulky usually 9 mm.
What ever, you can actually start using it right away, without the fancy
stuff.
First get a can of machinelube if you can. Spray some of it on a soft
lintless rag and wipe the top of the bed of the machine, take the carriage
off the end and wipe the underneath of the carriage where the needles
slide. Also make sure there is no lint under the carriage, and take off
the front plate by unscrewing the screws and check whethere there is any
yarn caught up underneath the brushes.
If so remove it. Reconnecvt the plate and you're ready to start.
Thread the yarn by bringing it up through the holder at the back of the
mast, through the rings, down to the front then up through the waving
wires that hit you in the face when you tried to do this.
Bring it down and clip a spring clothes pin on to the end, while you bring
out every other needle from say 20 on the left to 20 on the right. Bring
them up to the level of the gatepegs, put the yarn into the gap at the
front of the carriage, the sort of reversed V space, and make sure it is
up against the back of the plate. Gently push the carriage across, and
you should find all the needles you pushed forward now have yarn in the
loops. Now push the other needles between them up and if you have a comb,
which is a long piece of metal with little wire hooks out of it, every 4.5
mm across, hang it on the stitches you just made. What I do, is lay it
flat with the hook part on the top, bring it up to the back of the
stitches and just a little higher than the level of the yarn, bring it
down over the yarn, and your comb should be hung. Now take the carriage
across gently and it should knit the other stitches. This is the quick
and dirty way to cast on and is great for swatches, anything that is not
going to be the edge at that point and test pieces, waste yarn, etc. Now
just move your carriage back and forth and you will see knitted piece
coming down. At this moment you should be feeling pretty proud of
yourself, and calling your husband to say, Say I knew I could do it. To
shape things, there should be transfer tools, little pieces of plastic
about 3" long with needles, not latch needles, but ones with closed eyes,
coming out at each end. You use these, to decrease, by lifting yarn off
the machine needles by hooking the transfer tool eyes over the end
stitches, lifting them off the needles and moving them inwards by one or
two. To increase, you lift the end stitches out and pick up a bar from
the row below to fill the space, if you don;'t want a hole. If you want
the hole for lace reasons, just make sure the needle is in the B position
or work position as it is called, and you can go from there.
If you have a ribber, that's a different story. But I'll give you another
quick and dirty - mock rib
Cast on your first row and bring the second lot of needles up, and hange
the comb. Then knit across, now take every third needle and put it on
every second one, and push those needles you have just emptied back to the
A or non-work position. Knit double the length of rib you want.
You now have to do a manoever which is a little tricky, but if you have a
spare curtain rod, this will help to keep stitches from slipping off the
needles.
Lift the bottom of the comb towards you butkeep the knitting taut on the
machine, now lay the curtain rod in the space that is formed when you lift
the comb higher up still. The rod will weigh down the fabric you just
knitted. Now hold the hooks of the comb, close to the needles and use a
transfer tool, pick up one of the edge stitches you knitted to start the
fabric, and hook them on to the needles that have stitches on already.
You should also have loops to p
BanjoRamse
can copy the book from it if you think it would help. Let me know.
Patty
banjo...@aol.com
The Technician
send it to me . Unfortunately my wifes machine was missing parts that were
no longer availble. I paid 9.95 for the manual plus S/H about 13.50 total
I would be interested in sending it to you if it would help. If it does
help and you feel so inclined, you can then send donation back. Drop me
some E-mail if interested....
The Technician
and wife(The Knitter)