Rag Rug Weaving

[MaureenHof]

Any rag weavers out there with hints on how to make my rugs come out
firmer? I have been making rugs for awhile but they're still too thin. I
use regular carpet warp at around 8 epi with cotton rags (usually old
clothes, sheets, fabric, etc) about 1" wide. I end up with a rug, but
it's awfully thin and usually ends up about 8 ppi. I'd like to make a
thick, thirsty rug for my screened in porch. Am I not beating hard
enough? My arms are sore already! Any hints?
Thanks in advance!
Maureen Hoffman Maure...@aol.com
Topsfield, MA

[Carol Sitea]

It sounds like the weft materials are too thin.
Heavy fabrics or thicker strips might make a
thicker rug. Are you using a plain weave? You
might try a twill or some other weave that is
more weft face to pack more picks in closer
together. Also, you could try to space the
warps farther apart to squish the weft together.

Carol

................................................
Carol Sitea, 510.643.7804, Fax 510.642.2739
si...@eecs.berkeley.edu
http://ptolemy.eecs.berkeley.edu/~sitea/home.html

[Donna L. Bonchin]

Maureen, the biggest reason for loose rugs is the loom wasn't meant to weave them e
them. Either the beater isn't heavy enough, the loom 'gives' when beat or
sometimes the beater just isn't set up to smack that rug at the proper angle.
The next big reason - the sectional beam. A perfectly would warp is all but
impossible on the sectional. Example - after winding the section with the
utmost care and taping and cutting the warp ends perfectly even, you will haul
all those ends over the back beam, through the heddles & reed only to find -
those warps ends aren't even at all. Why - because you advanced the sectional
beam to do it. For every turn of that beam you will loose at least 1/4", usually
more, on some of the threads. 4 rotations = 1" tension lost. You don't notice
it much when weaving because the 8/4 stretches, but it's there. The answer to
this is do the very best you can when winding those sections. Use every trick.
Take your time. Another solution is a tensioner - see the ads for the Colling-
wood loom. That bar that holds 8' of warp up in the air till you're ready for i
it allows you to weave a rug without advancing the sectional beam. I weave one
rug, cut it off evenly. Advance the beam to retie after putting 8 feet up on the
tensioner for the next rug and when I go to tie on - The ends are as much as
8" different. Had I not used the tensioner bar, that 8" difference in warp
lengths would be evenly distributed throughout the next rug.
Re your letter - 8 epi should be giving you a rather weft faced rug. Usual sett
for 8/4 is 12. One " wide is not enough for sheets. The rule is twist the rag -
it should be as thick as a pencil (I go thicker). Cutting rags over 2" is not a
good idea - find heavier material.
If you are stuck with a less than perfect loom for rugs you could try weighting the
ing the beater. A 15 or 20# steel bar (metal shop, welding shop) bolted to the
bottom or back of the bottom of the beater will make a big big difference. Also make
make sure your loom is braced or bolted down on all for legs. Bolting just the
back ones will result in lots of loose bolts are you are virtually beating the
loom apart. The loom should not move when weaving.
Good luck.
Donna Bonchin

[Helen Fleischer]

Ma> Any rag weavers out there with hints on how to make my rugs come out
Ma> firmer? I have been making rugs for awhile but they're still too
Ma> thin. I use regular carpet warp at around 8 epi with cotton rags
Ma> (usually old clothes, sheets, fabric, etc) about 1" wide. I end up
Ma> with a rug, but it's awfully thin and usually ends up about 8 ppi.
Ma> I'd like to make a thick, thirsty rug for my screened in porch. Am
Ma> I not beating hard enough? My arms are sore already! Any hints?

It's been a long time since I wove a rag rug, but I would be tempted to
effectively reduce the number of ends per inch. I remember some of the
ones I made I sleyed at 10 epi and wove that as balanced tabby with
same-yarn for a inch or so to make a firm edge for the fringe. Then for
the rest of the rug I treadled by lifting two adjacent warps as one:
1&2, 3&4, 1&2... Even at 10 epi that gave me a bit more room to pack
the weft tighter and with less effort. That was good, because I was
using a fairly lightweight jack loom and didn't have any sand bags. I
also remember using the rhythm of changing the shed while the beater was
hard up against the weft.

... Living well is the best revenge.

* Q-Blue 1.0 * Helen Fleischer is he...@mbbs.com

[Helen Fleischer]

HF> It's been a long time since I wove a rag rug, but I would be tempted
HF> to effectively reduce the number of ends per inch. I remember some
HF> of the ones I made I sleyed at 10 epi and wove that as balanced
HF> tabby with same-yarn for a inch or so to make a firm edge for the
HF> fringe. Then for the rest of the rug I treadled by lifting two
HF> adjacent warps as one: 1&2, 3&4, 1&2... Even at 10 epi that gave me
HF> a bit more room to pack the weft tighter and with less effort. That
HF> was good, because I was using a fairly lightweight jack loom and
HF> didn't have any sand bags. I also remember using the rhythm of
HF> changing the shed while the beater was hard up against the weft.

Forgot to mention in the above that I was using a 5 dent reed. That just
might make a difference. ;)

... Incontinence Hotline... can you hold?

[Donna L. Bonchin]

Maureen has asked how she can make a tighter rug. I'm afraid increasing her
picks per inch is not the answer. She is already getting 8. She can have a
totally weft faced rug and still have it loose and flimsey. Her problem I
believe is her loom. What are you weaving on Maureen?
Donna Bonchin

[Sally Buell]

I make denim rag rugs from old jeans etc. I have been using 12
ends per inch just because that was how an old union loom was threaded
when I got it. The rugs are not thin and so far have worn for 4 years.
I know some people use wool cloth but with denim you can just throw them
in the washing machine when they get dirty.

Sally Buell (sbu...@u.washington.edu)

[MsMikel]

Maureen--have you tried using two or three pieces of weft. I find that
sheets are usually too sift to make a good sturdy rug with just a single
inch of weft. I often use three 1-inch wide with 8 epi. You can also try
changing the shed when the beater is at the fell line--that is when the
beater is all the way forward. This will work with either type of loom.
I make nice heavy rag rugs on a Schact jack loom.

I took a rag rug course from Marilyn Dillard (one of the authors in
Interweave Press's Rugweaving Techniques (I think that is the name) and
she insisted that changing the shed at the fell line made all the
difference in the world. I tried it and it worked for me and I've been
doing it ever since.