Any ideas on what would be a good substitute? AC Moore has something
that looks like it might be the same but there's no size marking so I'm
just not sure. Also, I see Red Heart is selling something called
LusterSheen which some of my chains do carry. Is it the same stuff?
Dawn
I just checked to see if I have any of it, but I don't. I remember my Mom used
to crocet with it and that was back in the 50's. The only thing I can recall is
that is was like crochet thread. Maybe that new one of Red Heart is taking it's
place. Sorry I can't help you more, but I bet someone will be able to.
Hugs,
Nora
That should be the same. It is good to work with. I'm making a tunic with
it now. It's taking a long time due to the gauge, however. Not a speedy
crochet project.
Posey
Dawn
Dawn Alguard wrote:
> Thanks to both of you for confirming that they're the same. I don't
> really like any of the colors I've seen for the Red Heart LusterSheen
> yet but at least now I have a yarn in my hands for comparison if I want
> to chose something else. I'll let you guys know how this shawl goes. My
> mother has never made a request before so I feel I must comply but it's
> got a chart and I've never crocheted from a chart so my fingers are
> crossed. I've done counted cross stitch which I figure is similar, but
> then I hate counted cross stitch. :)
>
Happy crocheting!
You will see that reading a chart is not so difficult.
I actually prefer charts to written directions, since they take less
spage and I can have only one page instead of five or six...
Since not all charts write the number of, let´s say, chains (empty
circles) it can be a bit boring having to recount in case of doubt. So I
really recommend you to have a pen or pencil near you to write the
number of stitches right on the chart.
Hugs,
Anna Maria
> You will see that reading a chart is not so difficult.
> I actually prefer charts to written directions, since they take less
> spage and I can have only one page instead of five or six...
This is actually a mix of written instructions and a chart. It's a
basic triangular shawl with a rose pattern on the back and the rose is
charted. It's one color and only two stitches the whole way so it
should be a pretty simple introduction to charts.
Here's a link:
http://womansday.com/article.asp?pl=§ion_id=3&article_id=6718&page_number=1
Dawn
Janise
"Dawn Alguard" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:2ns1f5F...@uni-berlin.de...
Dawn Alguard wrote:
>
> This is actually a mix of written instructions and a chart. It's a
> basic triangular shawl with a rose pattern on the back and the rose is
> charted. It's one color and only two stitches the whole way so it
> should be a pretty simple introduction to charts.
>
> Here's a link:
> http://womansday.com/article.asp?pl=§ion_id=3&article_id=6718&page_number=1
>
>
Filet crochet is addictive, you will like that!
Hugs,
Anna Maria
Anna Maria, that is a pretty shawl.
Els
--
hate spam not welcome
But when I did a gauge swatch I ran into a problem. It was supposed to
be 6 stitches and 6 rows = 2" square but for me it was 2" x 3".
Changing my hook would make both dimensions smaller so it would still be
wrong. I don't know where I'm messing up. The stitch is DC, ch 1 (DC
into the DCs and skip the chains). My double crochets must be too tall
somehow although I've always worked to gauge OK before. I was getting
rectangles for the "mesh" and I looked at the close-up picture and their
meshes are square.
So I changed to HDC. That gives me square meshes and the correct gauge
but I'm worried it's not going to come out right in the end. It looks
very nice so far but will it be 1/3 too short? Maybe the gauge they
listed was a misprint. For a while I thought maybe it was UK terms and
DC meant HDC but the number of chains they give to start rows suggests
they really do mean DC.
Honestly it's just like my mother to pick something that turns out to be
unexpectedly difficult.
Dawn
It could very well be a misprint on the gauge or the directions. I did the one
piece baby sweater from that magazine and the gauge was wrong. I don't know if
you were here when I was asking about the Smarty Pants yarn that it called for,
but even the gauge on the wrapper is different from the directions. There is no
way you can get in touch with them either, I already tried that.
Good luck with the shawl and I can't wait to see the finished picture.
Hugs,
Nora
>The saga continues. I did end up buying the Red Heart LusterSheen. I
>wanted something silver/grey but just couldn't find anything in that
>weight that suited so I ended up with the same spa blue that's in the photo.
>
>But when I did a gauge swatch I ran into a problem. It was supposed to
>be 6 stitches and 6 rows = 2" square but for me it was 2" x 3".
>Changing my hook would make both dimensions smaller so it would still be
>wrong. I don't know where I'm messing up. The stitch is DC, ch 1 (DC
>into the DCs and skip the chains). My double crochets must be too tall
>somehow although I've always worked to gauge OK before. I was getting
>rectangles for the "mesh" and I looked at the close-up picture and their
>meshes are square.
That pattern sounds like it wouldn't come out square for me either.
>So I changed to HDC. That gives me square meshes and the correct gauge
>but I'm worried it's not going to come out right in the end. It looks
>very nice so far but will it be 1/3 too short? Maybe the gauge they
>listed was a misprint. For a while I thought maybe it was UK terms and
>DC meant HDC but the number of chains they give to start rows suggests
>they really do mean DC.
I don't remember what you were making, but if it is something where
the guage is important, I would do whatever gets the proper guage. I
sometimes change the height of a stitch to get the right guage.
In any case, if you get 2 inches for six rows using hdc, then you can
divide the total number of rows in the finished piece by 3 to see what
the final length will be using hdc.
>Honestly it's just like my mother to pick something that turns out to be
>unexpectedly difficult.
>
>Dawn
--------
Barbara Vaughan
My email address is my first initial followed by my last name at libero dot it.
> In any case, if you get 2 inches for six rows using hdc, then you can
> divide the total number of rows in the finished piece by 3 to see what
> the final length will be using hdc.
I'd have to do the math. It's one of those "repeat row 2 until" things
but I could probably calculate it. Let's see. After 6 rows you have 67
* 2 + 1 meshes which is, um, 135. Then each row after that you remove
two meshes until you only have one left. So you have to remove 134
meshes, which would be, right, 67 rows. That should have been obvious.
OK, add in the 6 we had already and we get 73 rows at 2" for every 6
rows is 24 1/3" I think (had to get the calculator out for that one.)
And the pattern says it should be 25". So this should work.
Fortunately, it's only a shawl so an inch or two isn't going to make any
difference. I think the main thing is that the meshes have to be square
or else the rose filet is going to be all skewed.
It looks good so far. I'm forging ahead.
Dawn