potholder loops from yarn
Alan Winston
have the frustration that they are dependent on loops and not easily
used with yarn.
I have been wondering if using a round knitting loom with just a few
rounds of thin yarn might make usable loops.
Anyone have any experience with this?
--
Alan Winston
Seattle
Katherine
Not I, Alan. Why don't you give it a shot? You never know, you might invent
something new!
Katherine
Lynne
Check out these tutorial pages from Noreen Crone-Findlay's website.
She shows how to weave on a square loom w/yarn - 'don't know why this
wouldn't work on the metal or plastic ones as well. I must confess I
haven't yet tried it, although I printed out the tutorial some time ago to
try out.
If you try it and it works, ... let us know how it goes. :-)
- Lynne D.
"Alan Winston" <awin...@scn.org> wrote in message
news:2he50hF...@uni-berlin.de...
Noreen's Knit*che
> Hi, Alan -
>
> Check out these tutorial pages from Noreen Crone-Findlay's website.
>
> She shows how to weave on a square loom w/yarn - 'don't know why this
> wouldn't work on the metal or plastic ones as well. I must confess I
> haven't yet tried it, although I printed out the tutorial some time ago to
> try out.
>
> If you try it and it works, ... let us know how it goes. :-)
>
> - Lynne D.
>
Lynne, sweetie, you forgot the links!!!
LOL, I thought this only happened to *me*
Noreen
--
http://noreensknitche.weblogs.us/
http://noreensknitche.ceejaycee.net
http://www.mblog.com/noreens_knitche
~ ~ ~
http://mail2office.tripod.com/noreensknitche
~ ~ ~
change n e t to c o m to email me.
Lynne
Here 'comes:
http://www.crone-findlay.com/phtutorial.html
The sad thing, Noreen, is that all I had to do was click "paste" and it was
there. I had already copied, ... just too danged old to remember to follow
through and paste.
That's what I get for having a job and trying to divide my mind between job
and fun at the same time. ;-)
Sorry, ...
- Lynne D.
"Noreen's Knit*che" <nore...@juno.net> wrote in message
news:10biq7n3o5meh.1oslsflthq2lf$.dlg@40tude.net...
Noreen's Knit*che
> Well, for garden seed, LOL!!!
>
> Here 'comes:
>
> http://www.crone-findlay.com/phtutorial.html
>
> The sad thing, Noreen, is that all I had to do was click "paste" and it was
> there. I had already copied, ... just too danged old to remember to follow
> through and paste.
>
> That's what I get for having a job and trying to divide my mind between job
> and fun at the same time. ;-)
>
> Sorry, ...
>
> - Lynne D.
LOL, and as an *aside* notation, *I* am not *that* Noreen!
Hugs,
Noreen J.
Noreen's Knit*che
Alan Winston
>> rounds of thin yarn might make usable loops.
>>
>> Anyone have any experience with this?
>
> Not I, Alan. Why don't you give it a shot? You never know, you might
> invent something new!
I was hoping someone with a little knowledge and experience might lead
the way. :)
There seem to be several sizes of round knitting looms, with at least
one vendor offering different peg pitches. What should I use to create a
loop that is a bit stretchy at 7" pin-to-pin across the potholder loom?
Between that and figuring out what yarn to use ...
I suspect most of you have much larger collections of yarn than the two
skeins I bought the other day, and know more about the characteristics
than I ever will.
If I am not in fact reinventing the wheel, I'll plunge in on my own, but
I'll need to build up a little more gumption first. :)
Alan
Alan Winston
It turns out the link you provided is one I printed out a couple of days
ago. :)
I'll give it a try eventually, but it really doesn't substitute for
making loops that I can mix and match with loops I've bought.
I'm having a fine old time making color mixes and color patterns with
the selection of loops I've accumulated, but am frequently wishing I
could mix in just a loop or three of some color I don't have
[snip]
> If you try it and it works, ... let us know how it goes. :-)
Ja, I certainly will.
Alan
Helen Halla Fleischer
purpose, so I think this could work out for you.
Helen "Halla" Fleischer, Fantasy & Fiber Artist
http://home.covad.net/~drgandalf/halla/
Balticon Art Program Coordinator http://www.balticon.org
Alan Winston
> purpose, so I think this could work out for you.
Ahhhhhhhhh!
Commercial loops were formerly all toe cutoffs from commercial sock
manufacture, and many still are. The custom made loops are probably made
on the same sort of machinery.
So we are probably on the right track.
Thank you for the new lead for more research. :)
Alan
RigPilot
It is much easier, however, to use *standard* Weaving Techniques and wrap the pegs with yarn. Using the little loom like a Knitting Rake/Loom or Giant Corker, you can make panels for scarves, shawls, blankets/afgans, totes/bags/purses, sweaters, slippers, placemats, belts, etc. Check for the Complete Klutz book series for their instruction/project book.
Search for info about Knitting Without Needles and use it like s Round Loom. Also look for info about Lap Looms. With a bit of creativity and patience, you will amaze yourself and others.
"Alan Winston" <awin...@scn.org> wrote in message news:2hf2spF...@uni-berlin.de...
Lynne
you said that.
My poor old mind, ... there it goes, ...
- Lynne D.
"Noreen's Knit*che" <nore...@juno.net> wrote in message
news:10otrwkfd733x.u...@40tude.net...
Slinky
to use the foot portions of terry-on-the-inside socks as it doesn't
seem to ravel as fast as the ribby tops do when made into loops.
On Mon, 24 May 2004 04:35:44 -0700, "Alan Winston" <awin...@scn.org>
wrote:
>Potholder looms are great fun and a good introduction to weaving, but
Katherine
You are probably right about our stashes, but I think that, since you know
what you want, you would be the best one to invent it.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
Katherine
JJMolvik
whatever) you use won't disintegrate or melt with heat. My first instinct
would be look for cotton or wool.
JM2C
JJMolvik
Alan Winston
> know what you want, you would be the best one to invent it.
Oy.
Trial and error can be expensive though, and I just don't have the
money.
> Good luck, and keep us posted.
Thanks.
Alan
Alan Winston
> (or whatever) you use won't disintegrate or melt with heat. My first
> instinct would be look for cotton or wool.
Ja, that is already a problem with the commercial loops.
I am amazed that so many stores sell "potholder kits" with nylon or
similar loops. Some include warnings, but not all. But what is the point
of having a potholder that you can't use for some purposes? Who will
consistently remember that some of the potholders shouldn't be used on
stuff from the oven or objects over 350 degrees?
I've made a lot of "potholders" from nylon (et al) loops, but I consider
them coasters or decorative objects or pattern tests, not kitchen items.
Alan
Alan Winston
> to use the foot portions of terry-on-the-inside socks as it doesn't
> seem to ravel as fast as the ribby tops do when made into loops.
Seems like an unlikely way to fill in specific missing colors in one's
loop selection, but I will try adding the sock bins to my thrift store
routine.
Alan
Alan Winston
> into 1/8" wide to 1/4" wide loops. They are readily available for
> purchase at Michael's (NAYY) and through online craft supply sites.
Huh. I have never seen a stitched cloth loop, only knitted sock cutoffs
or custom made knitted loops, both in a range of qualities and
characteristics. They are have often been labeled "jersey loops" -- more
so perhaps in the past.
The cheap loops sold at Michael's are toe cutoffs from white or brightly
colored nylon stockings or tights, packaged by Wool Novelty Co., Inc.
( http://www.weavingloops.com/ ).
> It is much easier, however, to use *standard* Weaving Techniques and
> wrap the pegs with yarn. Using the little loom like a Knitting
> Rake/Loom or Giant Corker, you can make panels for scarves, shawls,
> blankets/afgans, totes/bags/purses, sweaters, slippers, placemats,
> belts, etc. Check for the Complete Klutz book series for their
> instruction/project book.
"Easier" how?
Which Klutz book are you referring to? I have the potholder loom book,
and like it, but it is about loops, not "standard" weaving.
> Search for info about Knitting Without Needles and use it like s
> Round Loom. Also look for info about Lap Looms. With a bit of
> creativity and patience, you will amaze yourself and others.
I have looked at lap looms and may end up with one. A Weave-It is
expected in the mail any day, and when I am ready, I have been offered
the loan of a table top loom. I think the latter may be too much for me.
I am mentally disabled, and having been doing the potholders as therapy.
I find it is best to not push "creativity" and to be cautious about
"patience" -- some types are fine, others just aren't there.
One of the things I have a big problem with is following instructions or
implementing a procedure.
I can know what to do and think I am doing it, but discover I have
actually done something else. I find potholder loom weaving to be a very
satisfactory match to my needs and abilities. Sequencing is pretty
straightforward, errors are relatively easily undone and corrected, and
stitch or thread counting is needed. The repetitive rhythmic activity is
very soothing and the project size is very nice for bringing me out of
an obsessive-compulsive trap every now and then.
Alan
Slinky
coloring or Easter egg pills (which are just food coloring). Cotton
blend socks can also be dyed with food coloring but you need to add a
bit of washing soda to make the color take well on the cotton.
On Tue, 25 May 2004 06:43:55 -0700, "Alan Winston" <awin...@scn.org>
wrote:
>> Old socks make OK loops. Use a rotary (pizza-type) cutter. I prefer
Alan Winston
> coloring or Easter egg pills (which are just food coloring). Cotton
> blend socks can also be dyed with food coloring but you need to add a
> bit of washing soda to make the color take well on the cotton.
If I am going to be dyeing, I think I would just as soon start with wool
loops ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2375546926 ).
That seems like it could be a whole new adventure, and I have began
poking around in the topic a bit.
I'd welcome suggestions for easy entry & easy cleanup. Think in terms of
a seven-to-nine year old with intermittant adult supervision. :)
What I have read so far seems oriented to larger qunatities and
achieving color uniformity. I would probably only be dying an ounce or
two at a time, and would actually prefer color variations.
Alan
Slinky
50/50 water/vinegar solution to thoroughly saturate, squeeze out
excess moisture, drop in the casserole, add food color (or use
Wilton's cake color) and nuke for 5-8 minutes.
You can also use Koolaid packets (are you in the US?), Wyler's drink
mix packets. One packet of drink mix is good for about an ounce of
fiber, dry weight.
Other things that you might have around the house that can be used as
dyestuff include beetroot (fugitive), onionskin (semi-permanent
yellow), and popsicles if the kid doesn't mind sacrificing a treat in
the name of scientific experimentation :)
On Tue, 25 May 2004 07:16:49 -0700, "Alan Winston" <awin...@scn.org>
wrote:
>> If you find white wool socks you can dye them easily with food
Alan Winston
> 50/50 water/vinegar solution to thoroughly saturate, squeeze out
> excess moisture, drop in the casserole, add food color (or use
> Wilton's cake color) and nuke for 5-8 minutes.
Add liquid?
> You can also use Koolaid packets (are you in the US?), Wyler's drink
> mix packets. One packet of drink mix is good for about an ounce of
> fiber, dry weight.
Cool. I'm in Seattle, where one can usually find stuff available in the
US.
For the Koolaid packet, would that be the "add sugar" kind (without
adding sugar)?
> Other things that you might have around the house that can be used as
> dyestuff include beetroot (fugitive), onionskin (semi-permanent
> yellow), and popsicles if the kid doesn't mind sacrificing a treat in
> the name of scientific experimentation :)
I'm the kid, so negotiations shouldn't degenerate to violence. :)
Thanks!
Alan
B Vaughan
wrote:
>>> I have been wondering if using a round knitting loom with just a few
>>> rounds of thin yarn might make usable loops.
This thread brought back memories of my grandparents. They used to
spend lots of time making not only potholders but also small rugs with
this looms. They would run a thread through the edge loops before
taking them off the loom, then they would just remove them and later
use a hook to "braid" the square to another square. They worked out
patterns together and really enjoyed this activity. All of us had bath
mats and in-front-of-the-kitchen-sink mats made by them. Recently one
of my aunts died and I asked for her little well-worn rug because I
knew my grandparents had made it over 40 years ago.
My children and I used to make potholders, for ourselves and as gifts,
with these little looms. It was a fun activity and we could make lots
of potholders in a couple of hours. However, at some point it became
difficult to find decent-quality loops. As someone mentioned, nylon
ones will melt right in your hand when you pick up a hot pot. The
cotton ones sold were usually of very poor quality (variable in
thickness, variable in length, very unravelled) and it became
difficult to get a decent-looking product.
--------
Barbara Vaughan
My email address is my first initial followed by my last name at libero dot it.
Slinky
wrote:
>> Use an old glass casserole and hte microwave. Pre-soak loopers in a
>> 50/50 water/vinegar solution to thoroughly saturate, squeeze out
>> excess moisture, drop in the casserole, add food color (or use
>> Wilton's cake color) and nuke for 5-8 minutes.
>
>Add liquid?
Depends on the effect you want. Experiment. Swimming loopers and
food color will produce loopers of mostly one color. Moist loopers
with food color added by drops will produce variegated loopers.
>
>> You can also use Koolaid packets (are you in the US?), Wyler's drink
>> mix packets. One packet of drink mix is good for about an ounce of
>> fiber, dry weight.
>
>Cool. I'm in Seattle, where one can usually find stuff available in the
>US.
>
>For the Koolaid packet, would that be the "add sugar" kind (without
>adding sugar)?
Right. Mix one packet of Koolaid with 2 cups of water; or, sprinkle
the stuff onto moist loopers.
>
>> Other things that you might have around the house that can be used as
>> dyestuff include beetroot (fugitive), onionskin (semi-permanent
>> yellow), and popsicles if the kid doesn't mind sacrificing a treat in
>> the name of scientific experimentation :)
>
>I'm the kid, so negotiations shouldn't degenerate to violence. :)
Hehehe!
Another option is to nuke moist loopers sans dye; when the loopers are
up to temp (190F is good) add the dye. The dye should stay where you
put it and strike almost immediately. You can do this as a vat-dye
method (swimming loopers) too if you're so inclined.
>
>
>Thanks!
>
>Alan
>
Alan Winston
> cotton ones sold were usually of very poor quality (variable in
> thickness, variable in length, very unravelled) and it became
> difficult to get a decent-looking product.
It seems easier to find lousy loops in stores than good ones, but they
are available
Loops from Harrisville Design seem to be moderately widely available in
upscale toy stores and are good quality, albeit not inexpensive.
The loops that come with the Klutz book are very good quality of what I
think of as the "retro style," and are available at a reasonably good
price by searching for "loops" on their web site, http://www.klutz.com
My favorite loops are from Marty's Socks (
http://stores.ebay.com/Martys-Socks-4-Less_Craft-Items-Loopers-Weaving ).
Good prices, good colors, good quality, nice and thick.
Sax's has reasonably good loops at a very good price, enter item part
number 700619J under "go shopping" at https://www.saxarts.com/
Most of the loops used in potholders at
http://www.geocities.com/albrwi/phloop are from Marty or Harrisville. As
potholders, they are head and shoulders above what could be made when I
was a kid in the 1950s or with my girls in the 1980s. They are bigger,
thicker, feel better, and look better. And I still think the old ones
were pretty darn good and each of those categories. :)
Using a good quality long crochet hook for weaving is a major
improvement over fingers or that rotten piece of bent wire.
Alan
Alan Winston
>
> Depends on the effect you want. Experiment. Swimming loopers and
> food color will produce loopers of mostly one color. Moist loopers
> with food color added by drops will produce variegated loopers.
rinse?
> Right. Mix one packet of Koolaid with 2 cups of water; or, sprinkle
> the stuff onto moist loopers.
That dry sprinklle sounds really nifty . Two colors even.
Seems like Koolaid is missing some colors though.
Wonder if there's a special green Koolaid out for Shrek. Saw M&Ms,
cereal, several other things.
>>
>>> Other things that you might have around the house that can be used
>>> as dyestuff include beetroot (fugitive), onionskin (semi-permanent
>>> yellow), ...
My wife died easter eggs with onionskins for many years, I liked the
colors she got.
The potential for color bleeding when splashed with boiling water is a
concern with potholders.
>> I'm the kid, so negotiations shouldn't degenerate to violence. :)
>
> Hehehe!
Rarely gets past harsh words, and those more often on screw-ups than
sharing issues.
> Another option is to nuke moist loopers sans dye; when the loopers are
> up to temp (190F is good) add the dye. The dye should stay where you
> put it and strike almost immediately. You can do this as a vat-dye
> method (swimming loopers) too if you're so inclined.
How do you measure temperature of a moist piece of yarn or potholder
loop?
Alan
RigPilot
Alan Winston
An Ebay pair of Weave-It palm looms arrived in yesterday mail. After I
had tried them out and gotten a little used to the strange, non-stretchy
character of yarn, I decided to experiment with mixing simple knotted
loops of yarn in with the commercial knitted loops on a potholder loom.
Weaving with them provides quite a bit of challenge and extra work, but
the results were good enough that I am going to do some more.
Results may be viewed at: http://www.geocities.com/albrwi/phloop
I'm still looking for a sock-sized round knitting loom, but even if that
is a great success, I will probably occasionally still straight loops
for variety.
Alan
Richard Eney
Alan Winston <awin...@scn.org> wrote:
>> Good luck, and keep us posted.
>
>An Ebay pair of Weave-It palm looms arrived in yesterday mail. After I
>had tried them out and gotten a little used to the strange, non-stretchy
>character of yarn, I decided to experiment with mixing simple knotted
>loops of yarn in with the commercial knitted loops on a potholder loom.
>
>Weaving with them provides quite a bit of challenge and extra work, but
>the results were good enough that I am going to do some more.
>
>Results may be viewed at: http://www.geocities.com/albrwi/phloop
Don't Weave-It looms also offer the use of a long "eyed needle" to weave
a long strand of yarn back and forth? Or wouldn't that mix quite as well
with the knitted loops.
>I'm still looking for a sock-sized round knitting loom
I think some of the ones being sold say they are usable for socks,
but there aren't very many pegs on them. They would make awfully
thick socks.
=Tamar
Alan Winston
>
> Don't Weave-It looms also offer the use of a long "eyed needle" to
> weave a long strand of yarn back and forth? Or wouldn't that mix
> quite as well with the knitted loops.
I'm not quite sure I am following you. My picture shows what you get off
the 2" and 4" Weave-Its (as well as a 7" square woven on a potholder
loom). How to get from there to a loop usable on a potholder loom isn't
at all evident to me.
The loops ought to be stretchy too, which is the biggest problem with
just using loops of yarn (or sewn cloth).
After I read your post I started imagining a Weave-It for loops. Round,
square, or oblong, wouldn't matter, as long as the pegs pointed out. But
I think it would need to have the weaving on the bias to provide the
desired spring on the loop. Could be possible I suppose ...
>> I'm still looking for a sock-sized round knitting loom
>
> I think some of the ones being sold say they are usable for socks,
> but there aren't very many pegs on them. They would make awfully
> thick socks.
But cozy :)
Probably fine for wear with slippers or clogs.
They could still be fine for making potholder loops, even if thick.
Alan
B Vaughan
wrote:
>It seems easier to find lousy loops in stores than good ones, but they
>are available
>
>
>Loops from Harrisville Design seem to be moderately widely available in
>upscale toy stores and are good quality, albeit not inexpensive.
>
>The loops that come with the Klutz book are very good quality of what I
>think of as the "retro style," and are available at a reasonably good
>price by searching for "loops" on their web site, http://www.klutz.com
>
>My favorite loops are from Marty's Socks (
>http://stores.ebay.com/Martys-Socks-4-Less_Craft-Items-Loopers-Weaving ).
>Good prices, good colors, good quality, nice and thick.
>
>Sax's has reasonably good loops at a very good price, enter item part
>number 700619J under "go shopping" at https://www.saxarts.com/
>
>Most of the loops used in potholders at
>http://www.geocities.com/albrwi/phloop are from Marty or Harrisville. As
>potholders, they are head and shoulders above what could be made when I
>was a kid in the 1950s or with my girls in the 1980s. They are bigger,
>thicker, feel better, and look better. And I still think the old ones
>were pretty darn good and each of those categories. :)
>
>Using a good quality long crochet hook for weaving is a major
>improvement over fingers or that rotten piece of bent wire.
I hope I can find good quality loops when I have grandchildren! Then
we can continue this tradition into the fourth generation!
Katherine
Those are really nice! I must have a look for those looms this summer.
Thanks for sharing.
Katherine
J. Koster
>
>
> Results may be viewed at: http://www.geocities.com/albrwi/phloop
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
Alan, very nice! You've got quite a bit of creativity going there!
Joan
--
Gone fibernatin'.
Richard Eney
Alan Winston <awin...@scn.org> wrote:
>>> Results may be viewed at: http://www.geocities.com/albrwi/phloop
>>
>> Don't Weave-It looms also offer the use of a long "eyed needle" to
>> weave a long strand of yarn back and forth? Or wouldn't that mix
>> quite as well with the knitted loops.
>
>I'm not quite sure I am following you. My picture shows what you get off
>the 2" and 4" Weave-Its (as well as a 7" square woven on a potholder
>loom). How to get from there to a loop usable on a potholder loom isn't
>at all evident to me.
I was sort of changing the subject a little. Weave-Its can be used with
potholder loops but they can also be used with yarn. The yarn is wrapped
back and forth around the loops in one direction and then woven through in
the other direction by weaving the yarn under and over the first set of
strands. A long needle is provided to make it easier. Theoretically it
should be possible to put the potholder loops on in one direction and
weave the yarn through in the other direction, but it might not give the
results you want. Since yarn comes in some bulky sizes, you could
probably get some that is about the right thickness.
>After I read your post I started imagining a Weave-It for loops. Round,
>square, or oblong, wouldn't matter, as long as the pegs pointed out. But
>I think it would need to have the weaving on the bias to provide the
>desired spring on the loop. Could be possible I suppose ...
Now I'm a little puzzled. :-) To me that sounds like using a tiny
Knitting Knobby to knit long thin tubes to have the ends hitched together
in circles to make weaving loops - what a job! I think there is a
French-made hand-cranked machine that makes something like that except
that I think it makes bigger tubes than the weaving-loop size.
>>> I'm still looking for a sock-sized round knitting loom
>>
>> I think some of the ones being sold say they are usable for socks,
>> but there aren't very many pegs on them. They would make awfully
>> thick socks.
>
>But cozy :)
>Probably fine for wear with slippers or clogs.
>They could still be fine for making potholder loops, even if thick.
Google for "Knitting Without Needles" to find them fastest, I think,
though there are other people making them since the idea has been around
for centuries.
=Tamar
Helen Halla Fleischer
>Now I'm a little puzzled. :-) To me that sounds like using a tiny
>Knitting Knobby to knit long thin tubes to have the ends hitched together
>in circles to make weaving loops - what a job! I think there is a
>French-made hand-cranked machine that makes something like that except
>that I think it makes bigger tubes than the weaving-loop size.
I think he's thinking of knitting a sock-diameter loop of only a few rows.
Still a lot of work.
I'm now wondering if a crochet chain of that size, joined into a ring,
might not be a bit better for the purpose, and faster. It would be a
little bit springier than just yarn loops and closer to the same thickness;
still note as stretchy as sock loops, but they wouldn't ravel.
Helen "Halla" Fleischer, Fantasy & Fiber Artist
http://home.covad.net/~drgandalf/halla/
Balticon Art Program Coordinator http://www.balticon.org
Alan Winston
> rows. Still a lot of work.
Ja. That's me.
The work shouldn't be out of line since I only intend to use a few per
potholder, sticking to commercial loops for the majority. Bringing in
just a bit of something with special impact can be disproportionally
effective, and well worth some extra effort.
> I'm now wondering if a crochet chain of that size, joined into a ring,
> might not be a bit better for the purpose, and faster. It would be a
> little bit springier than just yarn loops and closer to the same
> thickness; still note as stretchy as sock loops, but they wouldn't
> ravel.
I have shied away from conventional crochet and knitting since I
perceive them as requiring some consistency in small-motor coordination
to get even results, and anything that requires counting at the same
time as finger manipulation is a lost cause. Whether knitting looms or
potholder looms, the mechanical assistance in both consistency and
sequencing is important to keeping the ratio of steps forward to steps
backward at an encouraging level.
Alan
Helen Halla Fleischer
>> I'm now wondering if a crochet chain of that size, joined into a ring,
>> might not be a bit better for the purpose, and faster. It would be a
>> little bit springier than just yarn loops and closer to the same
>> thickness; still not as stretchy as sock loops, but they wouldn't
>> ravel.
>
>I have shied away from conventional crochet and knitting since I
>perceive them as requiring some consistency in small-motor coordination
>to get even results, and anything that requires counting at the same
>time as finger manipulation is a lost cause. Whether knitting looms or
>potholder looms, the mechanical assistance in both consistency and
>sequencing is important to keeping the ratio of steps forward to steps
>backward at an encouraging level.
>
>
I think a simple crochet chain, worked on say a size G or H hook and joined
into a loop should be feasible, especially using the knife-hold, for those
with minimal fine motor coordination. It need not even have perfectly even
tension as some variability will only add interest to the texture of the
woven square.
Alan Winston
> joined into a loop should be feasible, especially using the
> knife-hold, for those with minimal fine motor coordination. It need
> not even have perfectly even tension as some variability will only
> add interest to the texture of the woven square.
I'm not sure what a knife hold is, but I have had success with chaining
on a crochet hook to make potholder loops. For a single-color yarn it
may turn out to be the best option for most folks.
I have also made loops on the knitting loom, going around twice, then
chaining off the two layers one after the other (without having knitted
at all). The smallest (blue) Knifty Knitter turns out a loop sized just
right for potholder looms. I think I may remain more comfortable with
the loom.
With multicolor yarn, the twice-around on the knitting loom gets the
color repeats out of sync, so you get a more variegated potholder loop,
which is nice. Doing it on a crochet hook gives color bands unless ...
unless ... hmmm ... I was going to say "cut" but if you doubled the yarn
over, then chained off alternate legs, you'd get a good color mix, and
if that doubling loop was tight against the chaining, it could be useful
for closing the potholder loop. Something for further experimentation.
I also tried a chained loop using two colors of yarn, alternating them
in the chain. That could be nice in a potholder.
For a potholder using just four chained loops from multicolored yarn
that gave a nice stained glass effect, see
http://www.geocities.com/albrwi/phloop
So, at this point, I consider the project already a success, and
anticipate further improvements.
Thank you to everyone who has provided encouragement and suggestions.
Alan
Helen Halla Fleischer
>> I think a simple crochet chain, worked on say a size G or H hook and
>> joined into a loop should be feasible, especially using the
>> knife-hold, for those with minimal fine motor coordination. It need
>> not even have perfectly even tension as some variability will only
>> add interest to the texture of the woven square.
>
>I'm not sure what a knife hold is, but I have had success with chaining
>on a crochet hook to make potholder loops. For a single-color yarn it
>may turn out to be the best option for most folks.
It means holding the hook more like a knife than like a dainty lady holding
a fork as some folk hold their hooks. Holding it like a knife lets you use
larger muscles to achieve the needed motions.
>I have also made loops on the knitting loom, going around twice, then
>chaining off the two layers one after the other (without having knitted
>at all). The smallest (blue) Knifty Knitter turns out a loop sized just
>right for potholder looms. I think I may remain more comfortable with
>the loom.
That sounds like a good technique, too.
>With multicolor yarn, the twice-around on the knitting loom gets the
>color repeats out of sync, so you get a more variegated potholder loop,
>which is nice. Doing it on a crochet hook gives color bands unless ...
>unless ... hmmm ... I was going to say "cut" but if you doubled the yarn
>over, then chained off alternate legs, you'd get a good color mix, and
>if that doubling loop was tight against the chaining, it could be useful
>for closing the potholder loop. Something for further experimentation.
There are several variations on the crochet chain that work a lot like that
to make thicker cords. As I recall, Elmore Leonard's book from Annie's
Attic had several of those variations well illustrated.
>I also tried a chained loop using two colors of yarn, alternating them
>in the chain. That could be nice in a potholder.
>
>For a potholder using just four chained loops from multicolored yarn
>that gave a nice stained glass effect, see
>http://www.geocities.com/albrwi/phloop
Those are gorgeous!
>So, at this point, I consider the project already a success, and
>anticipate further improvements.
Definitely a success.
>Thank you to everyone who has provided encouragement and suggestions.
>
Thank you. You've inspired me to try to find my old potholder loom.
Kayrun
Your color choices & patterns are fantastic!
Thanks for sharing!
Alan Winston
> like that to make thicker cords. As I recall, Elmore Leonard's book
> from Annie's
> Attic had several of those variations well illustrated.
I've got some crochet books coming from the library.
I don't quite associate Elmore Leonard's writing style with crochet
stitches. :)
>> For a potholder using just four chained loops from multicolored yarn
>> that gave a nice stained glass effect, see
>> http://www.geocities.com/albrwi/phloop
>
> Those are gorgeous!
Thank you. :)
I added another picture today.
> Thank you. You've inspired me to try to find my old potholder loom.
:)
Alan
Helen Halla Fleischer
>> There are several variations on the crochet chain that work a lot
>> like that to make thicker cords. As I recall, Elmore Leonard's book
>> from Annie's
>> Attic had several of those variations well illustrated.
>
>I've got some crochet books coming from the library.
>
>I don't quite associate Elmore Leonard's writing style with crochet
>stitches. :)
Oops. The name is similar, but not the same guy. Now I'll have to dig out
the book to see what the name really is!
RigPilot
Bill Elmore's first work is out of print and goes for about $75 USD
used.
"Helen Halla Fleischer" <helen...@covad.net> wrote in message
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