Sewing machines: the reversing switch
Barbara Carter
on sewing machines.
I learned to sew on a sewing machine that used a lever to set the
stitch length and forward/reverse direction. You just set it and
it stays there until you change it. I came to depend on this
ability to sew forward, then, with a quick flick of the lever, sew
in reverse using both hands to guide the fabric. Another flick set
it to go forward again. Loved it. Unfortunately, it's my mother's
machine, and she's not parting with it. (An old featherweight, I
think.)
My current machine is a low-end plastic Singer (ugh) with a spring-
loaded button you have to HOLD in for as long as you want to sew
in reverse. I hate it! I just don't like sewing one-handed.
My question is this: do sewing professionals find a spring-loaded
reverse switch preferable (it seems that a lot of professional
machines employ them), and if so, why? Am I missing something?
Is it somehow faster?
Thanks for any insight,
Barbara
Cambridge, Mass.
Jerome S. Culik & Martina L. Culik Moore
My Viking Husqvarna which was top of the line in late 1970's has this
spring loaded button. It is all what you get used to...
One of my sewing books suggests another way:
Start sewing forward about 1/8 to 1/4 inch, raise presser foot and put
fabric back to beginning and then sew forward the entire seam. It said
that this is the way the industrial sewers do it.
Martina
Jane
>My question is this: do sewing professionals find a spring-loaded
>reverse switch preferable (it seems that a lot of professional
>machines employ them), and if so, why? Am I missing something?
>Is it somehow faster?
>
My old Montgomery Ward machine had the knob that you had to hold
while sewing. It was a pain, but I got used to it.
My newer Singer had a knob that you can either hold in, or push in and
lock, for those longer backwards-sewing jobs. I like it.
It's a top-of-the-line mechanical Singer, about 5 years old or so. I can't
remember the model number, sorry.
Jane
ps
"Jerome S. Culik & Martina L. Culik Moore" <culik...@brandywine.net> wrote
in message news:39F825FC...@brandywine.net...
> Barbara,
> My Viking Husqvarna which was top of the line in late 1970's has this
> spring loaded button. It is all what you get used to...
> One of my sewing books suggests another way:
> Start sewing forward about 1/8 to 1/4 inch, raise presser foot and put
> fabric back to beginning and then sew forward the entire seam. It said
> that this is the way the industrial sewers do it.
sure this is the way industrials seamstresses do it IF their machine does
not have a reverse; many don't. The drawback is that there are theses
annoying little threads you have to clip.
My industrials all have a big spring loaded lever on the front for a
reverse; you just slam it down with your hand and release. Sewing one
handed for a few seconds is not an issue for me as industrials feed so
straight.
Penny S.
Barbara Carter
: ...
: My industrials all have a big spring loaded lever on the front for a
: reverse; you just slam it down with your hand and release. Sewing one
: handed for a few seconds is not an issue for me as industrials feed so
: straight.
: Penny S.
Aha, thanks Penny! I wondered if that was the case. My cheesy home
machine definitely doesn't feed straight, especially in reverse!
So, I won't immediately turn up my nose at a spring-loaded reverse
lever on an industrial machine. Now, which one...? :)
Barbara
Cambridge, Mass.
sewingb...@webtv.net
I, too, have owned machines that had a 'locking' reverse, and much
preferred that
option, as I do a lot of tiny corner/spot repair & alteration work,
where I need an extreme amount of needle control accuracy, and it is
really necessary to be able to use both hands to manipulate the fabric.
(More so than, say, commercial machine drapery work, with long, straight
runs of fabric, where hitting a bar lever for reverse works fine.)
Unfortunately, when you buy a machine, you usually have to decide
which option is more important, as you can't have it all. (I can hear
the general chorus, "WHY????")
Because The Gods of Sewing decree it, that's why!
BUT my most recent acquisition, a Singer 6268, has an electronic
button which you tap twice to lock in the backstitch. It is proving to
be a very nice second-hand machine.
Cea
Sewing machines: the reversing switch
<bca...@mars.harvard.edu (Barbara Carter)>
Chris Diefenderfer
button that will "tie-off" the stitching when you press the button (you
don't have to hold it in). It takes three small stitches then goes back to
whatever stitch length you have set. This is a home machine - not an
industrial. So, there may be other options besides a reverse switch or
button.
Chris
Bonny Brook Farm
Washington State, USA
diefen...@earthlink.net
el...@xyz.net
holding down the button. All you have to do is press the reverse
button twice quickly and it will sew backwards all day long. Once you
want to go forward, you just tap the button once and away it goes. I
love it for mending.
Ellen
On 25 Oct 2000 14:14:31 -0500, Barbara Carter
<bca...@mars.harvard.edu> wrote:
>Hi all, got a question for you about the reverse button/lever/switch
>on sewing machines.
>
>I learned to sew on a sewing machine that used a lever to set the
>stitch length and forward/reverse direction. You just set it and
>it stays there until you change it. I came to depend on this
>ability to sew forward, then, with a quick flick of the lever, sew
>in reverse using both hands to guide the fabric. Another flick set
>it to go forward again. Loved it. Unfortunately, it's my mother's
>machine, and she's not parting with it. (An old featherweight, I
>think.)
>
>My current machine is a low-end plastic Singer (ugh) with a spring-
>loaded button you have to HOLD in for as long as you want to sew
>in reverse. I hate it! I just don't like sewing one-handed.
>
>My question is this: do sewing professionals find a spring-loaded
>reverse switch preferable (it seems that a lot of professional
>machines employ them), and if so, why? Am I missing something?
>Is it somehow faster?
>
>Thanks for any insight,
>
>Barbara
>Cambridge, Mass.
autopromk
machine I have had you keep hand on it. Even the top of the range
machines do not seem to stitch backwards continuously - but someone may
know different!!!
Regards
Liz Hall
The Liebers
7570) has a button that I can hit while sewing for a single reverse
stitch or if I stop momentarily while sewing while I hit the reverse
button will sew continuously in reverse (straight,zig zag...) I didn't
think this was unusual, maybe I am wrong?
joy s-e
> I learned to sew on a sewing machine that used a lever to set the
> stitch length and forward/reverse direction. You just set it and
> it stays there until you change it.
>
> loaded button you have to HOLD in for as long as you want to sew
> in reverse. I hate it! I just don't like sewing one-handed.
>
Your machine might be different, but I have a 10 year old low-end
Singer (I "ugh" with you in sympathy) and if you push the spring loaded
button in and then down it locks in position to sew in reverse
continuously. The button is very hard to push in, if my machine isn't
bolted to the table it just moves when I push the button therefor I
usually just sew a few stitches at zero length and then start sewing at
the full length.
I am in Andover, MA and noticed your rocketter post. Do you have a
secret source to old machine you would like to share? I have just
gotten interested in old machine. So far three have "found" me and are
waiting various attention. One needs a cord, one cleaning and oiling,
and I haven't even looked at the third one yet. I am just fascinated
by the mechanisms and how well they were build. But I'm a Mechanical
Engineer by day, so I'm into that kind of thing.
--
Joy S-E
Is it time to sew yet?
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Barbara Carter
:> My current machine is a low-end plastic Singer (ugh) with a spring-
:> loaded button you have to HOLD in for as long as you want to sew
:> in reverse. I hate it! I just don't like sewing one-handed.
joy s-e <js...@my-deja.com> wrote:
: Your machine might be different, but I have a 10 year old low-end
: Singer (I "ugh" with you in sympathy) and if you push the spring loaded
: button in and then down it locks in position to sew in reverse
: continuously.
Sounds good in theory...
: The button is very hard to push in, if my machine isn't
: bolted to the table it just moves when I push the button ...
Mine also does the scootch, adding to my frustration. This is a
good caveat for people who are looking to buy their first machine:
try things like this out before buying!
: I am in Andover, MA and noticed your rocketter post. Do you have a
: secret source to old machine you would like to share?
I'm no collector, and have no idea if I got fleeced or if I made a steal
(I don't care either way: it seemed a reasonable price). I was having
my vacuum cleaner serviced at JNB Vac 'n Sew on Moody Street in Waltham
(not to be confused with the 2 other vacuum cleaner repair shops on
the same street) and while I was there I couldn't help but notice all
the used sewing machines in the store. They have a few featherweights
(for $200-$400) and a whole slew of random other sewing machines (maybe
some sergers too?), even the odd industrial machine. Just for fun, I
listed the features I wanted, and the guy pulled out the super-ugly
"Rocketeer", let me try it, and the rest was history. They basically
take trade-ins, fix them up, and sell them as working machines.
: I have just gotten interested in old machine....
: But I'm a Mechanical Engineer by day, so I'm into that kind of thing.
Know anything about smelly motors that make tiny sparks? ;)
Barbara
Cambridge, Mass.
joy s-e
> : I am in Andover, MA and noticed your rocketter post. Do you have a
> : secret source to old machine you would like to share?
>
> my vacuum cleaner serviced at JNB Vac 'n Sew on Moody Street in
Waltham
> (not to be confused with the 2 other vacuum cleaner repair shops on
> the same street) and while I was there I couldn't help but notice all
> the used sewing machines in the store. They have a few featherweights
> (for $200-$400) and a whole slew of random other sewing machines
(maybe
> some sergers too?), even the odd industrial machine. Just for fun, I
> listed the features I wanted, and the guy pulled out the super-ugly
> "Rocketeer", let me try it, and the rest was history. They basically
> take trade-ins, fix them up, and sell them as working machines.
>
> : I have just gotten interested in old machine....
> : But I'm a Mechanical Engineer by day, so I'm into that kind of
thing.
>
> Know anything about smelly motors that make tiny sparks? ;)
I'm not an expert on DC motors, but a couple of things could cause that:
1.Recent lubricating that will burn off in a short time of using the
machine
2.The motor contact are new and need to burn in a little and will ok
after running for a while
3.The motor is about to burn out. As long as it's wired properly, will
not cause a fire or anything, just the motor is dead and needs to be
replaced.
4.the motor contact need to be replaced - this would account for the
sparks, but not the smell.
Which one really depends on what it smells like. I can't really
describe it, but contacts (they are graphite, sniff a pencil) and oil
(open the hood of your car - different oil, but similar) smell
differently. If the place is reputable, then it's 1 or 2 or a
combination of both and you just need to run the motor at a reasonable
speed for a while until it goes away. Don't floor the pedal. Should
be ok to sew. But I wouldn't drape any material over it near the motor
just in case. Let me know what happens. I have a few friends I am
trying to get interested in sewing and knowing a place that sells used
machine that I can recommend would be helpful. If you can see inside
the motor housing or remove a cover to get to it, you might want to
look and see if there is alot of oil inside. Don't know the machine so
I am not sure how to get to it.
Barbara Carter
: Since you are a mechanical engineer, you might want to try this.
Actually, I'm an astronomer. The Mech E is another poster.
: Take a look
: at the commutator in the motor.
The part with the copper sections that rotates, right?
I'm learning! ;)
: If it's really dirty, and it will be if the
: shop didn't clean it, then clean it with really fine emery (like crocus
: cloth) or even fine steel wool unitl the copper is shiny again. Make sure
: you vacuum up all the crud and dust you create; don't leave it inside the
: motor!
I haven't dismantled the motor, but I did pull off the two
screws holding on two sections of the case, allowing me to
see the commutator and the two contacts, one on either side.
I can see the copper is pretty shiny on the commutator sections
except there's a small dirty line near each intersection (not
the actual space between the sections, but on the copper itself).
I suspect the sparks are arising from these dirty parts. The
sparks are really tiny, and I'm hoping the dirty parts will just
self-clean with use. The jackets on the contacts look really
shiny and new (I'm guessing the actual graphite is contained
within a metal jacket). I would hazard a guess that the repair
shop replaced the contacts with new ones, and maybe part of the
sparking is due to the new contacts not quite worn in yet.
I did notice that there was a thin film of oil pretty much
everywhere, even on the motor and inside it. Looks like they
sprayed the stuff all over the open bottom of the sewing machine.
I wiped off the motor. Maybe that'll help the smell some too.
: I did it to my ancient Pfaff and it really helped. If the commutator is
: dirty the brushes can't make good contact, leading to more sparking and more
: sparky/burny smell.
: If you don't feel completely comfortable taking off the motor housing, then
: don't. Get the shop tolook at it. jc
Thanks so much for your help!
Barbara
jc
at the commutator in the motor. If it's really dirty, and it will be if the
shop didn't clean it, then clean it with really fine emery (like crocus
cloth) or even fine steel wool unitl the copper is shiny again. Make sure
you vacuum up all the crud and dust you create; don't leave it inside the
motor!
dirty the brushes can't make good contact, leading to more sparking and more
sparky/burny smell.
If you don't feel completely comfortable taking off the motor housing, then
don't. Get the shop tolook at it. jc
Barbara Carter wrote in message <3a009...@cfanews.harvard.edu>...
jc
>
>The part with the copper sections that rotates, right?
>I'm learning! ;)
>
had put a lot of oil inside and the sparking/friction on the carbon brushes
had burned it into a nice varnish. Mopping up excess oil inside the motor
won't hurt. It certainly shouldn't be around the commutator/brushes. But if
it's basically clean I shouldn't worry.
rick tkachuk
long period of time? I have been a seamestress for over 15 years now and
see no need to sew in reverse for more than a few stiches. All my
machines, with the exception on my first one (which only went forwards, one
speed, one stitch), have had push button reverse, both industrial and
personal machines.
Donna T.
dragonMama
fit the growing child) by the time you get the fabric in place (even on the
free arm) in order to mend, it's easiest to go forwards & back -- much more
awkward, impossible even, to turn so you're always sewing frontwards. One
could sew just forward, then stop, cut threads (or leave), move piece back,
then sew forwards....but MUCH easier (IMHO) to be able to sew backwards at
length.
Win
rick tkachuk wrote:
> Maybe I'm missing something, but why would you want to sew backwards for a
> long period of time? I have been a seamestress for over 15 years now and
> see no need to sew in reverse for more than a few stiches. All my
> machines, with the exception on my first one (which only went forwards, one
> speed, one stitch), have had push button reverse, both industrial and
> personal machines.
>
> Donna T.
>
> "Jerome S. Culik & Martina L. Culik Moore" wrote:
>