Side vs. Back Zippers
Erin McKean
I've been noticing lately that only the high-end Vogue
and some Style patterns have side zippers, and that
everything else seems to have ugly back zippers,
no matter what!
I just bought a Vogue (VEVV) pattern that actually
splits the back of the collar in order to accomodate
the long back zipper. I'm putting in a side zipper anyway.
Almost all of my "older" 50s and 60s patterns use
side zippers. Does anyone know why they've fallen out
of favor?
Erin McKean
Milly Dalle
Erin McKean (em...@midway.uchicago.edu) writes:
>
>
> Almost all of my "older" 50s and 60s patterns use
> side zippers. Does anyone know why they've fallen out
> of favor?
>
Erin
I wonder if it's not part of the anything to make it easier attitude,
since I remember putting in side zippers and of course the opening has to
be exactly the right length for the zipper (or vice-versa) whereas it's
easier to correct a mistake in a zip that comes to the top. But it sure is
easier to zip and unzip a zipper on the side!
Milly>
Truly Donovan
Erin McKean wrote:
>
> I've been noticing lately that only the high-end Vogue
> and some Style patterns have side zippers, and that
> everything else seems to have ugly back zippers,
> no matter what!
>
> I just bought a Vogue (VEVV) pattern that actually
> splits the back of the collar in order to accomodate
> the long back zipper. I'm putting in a side zipper anyway.
>
> side zippers. Does anyone know why they've fallen out
> of favor?
I don't know why they have fallen out of favor, but I can tell you what
brings them back for me -- when you get to be my size and achieve my
level of agility, back zippers are simply out of the question. Even
with the expedience of a safety pin on a string, closing them is a
nightmare and opening them again later is even worse. My choices are to
not use back zippers or train the Westie to zip and unzip. If you've
ever lived with a Westie, you know what the real choice is. (Westies
can give the appearance of being trained on those days when they
*decide* to humor you.)
Truly Donovan
DDuperault
In article <DssHG...@midway.uchicago.edu>, em...@midway.uchicago.edu
(Erin McKean) writes:
>Almost all of my "older" 50s and 60s patterns use
>side zippers. Does anyone know why they've fallen out
>of favor?
Well, I have a pair of shorts with a side zipper and I hate it.
Dawn
Batgirl was a Librarian, too.
http://www.he.net/~dduperal/
Raymond Lowe
Thinking of zips... Now that I am a sewer and pay more attention to such
things I notice that many RTW dresses now use a zipper that, for want of
a clearer description, have the teeth backwards. This allows the seam to
close completely when the zip is done up.
That is a terrible description, but hopefully you recognise what I mean.
The point is - what are these zips called and can I buy them? Are they
even harder to install that normal zips?
R.
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Milly Dalle
Raymond Lowe (rl...@HK.Super.Net) writes:
> Thinking of zips... Now that I am a sewer and pay more attention to such
> things I notice that many RTW dresses now use a zipper that, for want of
> a clearer description, have the teeth backwards. This allows the seam to
> close completely when the zip is done up.
>
> That is a terrible description, but hopefully you recognise what I mean.
>
> The point is - what are these zips called and can I buy them? Are they
> even harder to install that normal zips?
>
>
You must mean "invisible zippers" - they were popular years ago but then
fell out of fashion because you had to buy these horrible plastic feet to
install them. However I just started using them again when i bought a
Bernina sewing machine because they have a presser foot which allows you
to insert these zippers very easily. Other brands of machines might have
something similar - the foot has to have a groove in the underside so that
you can put it over the coil (the trick is sewing very close to the coil
without sewing into it). Anyway check out your local sewing store for
invisible zippers and they can probably advise you how to use it with your
particular machine.
Milly>
S. Rutiser
Raymond Lowe asked about zippers with "backward" teeth.
These are called invisible zippers. They are great!
However, they are not installed the same way ordinary zippers are. Read
the directions in the package, or find a sewing book with a good description
of how to do it.
Also, the zipper foot which is reqired to hold the zipper in an 'uncurled'
position to sew is different from an ordinary zipper foot. My 1970s
Sears Kenmore had the right sort of foot. It was a little block of plastic
with some weird grooves lengthwise in the bottom. My brand-new Bernina
does not. :(
Ask your sewing store about them. They can probably point you to the right
rack of zippers, and might even be able to find you one of the feet.
Bonus hint (I think I saw it on this newsgroup): because the invisible
zipper does not show, it does not have to match the garmet. Paint the
zipper pull with nail polish or model enamel or something to get the color
you want.
Happy sewing
Sylvia
John or Jenn Ridley
rl...@HK.Super.Net (Raymond Lowe) wrote:
>Thinking of zips... Now that I am a sewer and pay more attention to such
>things I notice that many RTW dresses now use a zipper that, for want of
>a clearer description, have the teeth backwards. This allows the seam to
>close completely when the zip is done up.
>
You should be able to find them in your local store (the Minn Fabs,
JoAnn's, and SoFro all have them).
> Are they even harder to install that normal zips?
It helps if you have an invisible zipper foot (sold for about
$2-3(US)) most of the places that have the zippers. Coats & Clark and
YKK both make them, so your local chain store should have the zippers
and the foot. And you can use the YKK foot on the C&C zipper and vice
versa. You can even set the zipper with a standard zipper foot, but
it's easier with the invisible zipper foot. (use the right tool for
the job)
As to ease of installation...they come with directions, and recent
issues of both Vogue Patterns and Sew News have had articles on using
them (unfortunately, I think I've already pitched them, so I can't
look up the articles :( ). I don't find them harder to use, but you
do have to get the placement pretty much perfect if you want the
zipper to "disappear".
I don't do zippers much, never have (I prefer button front or pullover
styles) but I can set a good zipper when I need to.
jenn
---
Jenn Ridley
jri...@ix.netcom.com
Alison Meyer
In article <4pmss4$t...@freenet-news.carleton.ca>,
bq...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Milly Dalle) wrote:
> You must mean "invisible zippers" - they were popular years ago but then
> fell out of fashion because you had to buy these horrible plastic feet to
> install them.
Now, I know you're supposed to use those special feet, but mine seem to go
in fine with a regular zipper foot (with the foot to the right of the
needle.) Of course, I don't follow the directions on the package for
>any< zipper. . .
Bobby Ann Loper (THEATRE)
I suspect that stepping into a garment, pulling it up and fastening the
back zipper is easier for most people than crawling into the bottom of a
dress,
hunting for the armholes, tugging the dress down, and fastening
the side zipper, especially if they have already done their hair and
makeup.
If it is a pattern they have not made before, sometimes the
side
zipper is more difficult to sew in after the dress is constructed enough
to fit.
On Mon, 10 Jun 1996, Erin McKean wrote:
> I've been noticing lately that only the high-end Vogue
> and some Style patterns have side zippers, and that
> everything else seems to have ugly back zippers,
> no matter what!
>
> I just bought a Vogue (VEVV) pattern that actually
> splits the back of the collar in order to accomodate
> the long back zipper. I'm putting in a side zipper anyway.
>
>
> Almost all of my "older" 50s and 60s patterns use
> side zippers. Does anyone know why they've fallen out
> of favor?
>
>
> Erin McKean
>
>
>
Anita F. Henck
In article <FYzvxkkC...@HK.Super.Net>
rl...@HK.Super.Net (Raymond Lowe) writes:
>Thinking of zips... Now that I am a sewer and pay more attention to such
>things I notice that many RTW dresses now use a zipper that, for want of
>a clearer description, have the teeth backwards. This allows the seam to
>close completely when the zip is done up.
>even harder to install that normal zips?
pers, but no more hard. For most machines, it is necessary to buy a special
invisible zipper foot (usually inexpensive and plastic). These are made/sold
by the zipper companies (usually in fabric stores, however), not the sewing
machine company.
It takes some reverse logic (to me) to sew these -- they are sewn in *before*
the seam is sewn; and you don't baste the center seam. They are sewn in
backwards (sort of) to each seam and *then* the rest of the seam is sewn up.
Typically these are a bit more expensive than regular zippers (usually about
$1 more per zipper). If you get a chance, buy one that is in a package for a
first attempt -- the directions inside are usually helpful. After that, you
can go for the cheaper version which hangs from a cardboard tag; these come
with no directions, however, so it would be confusing for a first attempt
IMHO.
Once you get the hang of it and learn how to adjust your needle position (you
have to sew incredibly close to the teeth), you're on your way. Good luck!
==anita==
Georgina Kelly
I first heard about invisible zippers some months ago in this newsgroup.
Shortly afterward I bought some beautiful satiny material to make a dress with
and, hating the thought of the look of my usual effort zipper installation,
asked the sales assistant about them. The plastic foot cost just a few
dollars and with the saleswoman's tips, I had no trouble getting the zipper
sewn in. It looks great, no visible stitches, no visible zip. I'm converted,
in fact last night I sewed one into a "good" skirt that I'm making. I doubt
that I'll use anything else for my dresses in future.
Georgie.
B H Hessler
I would love to know how you insert these zips using an ordinary zipper
foot - I tried and I hit problems when I reached the bottom of the zip -
I couldnt get the needle close enough to the zip and was left with a
large gaping hole! I even tried to steam the coil flat but ended up
ruining the zipper. My machine is an old Singer (it does zig-zag so I
can change the position of the needle) but I still cant see how an
ordinary zipper foot would work.
Raymond Lowe
Thank you everybody who commented on the Invisible Zipper post! I will sure
have to try one sometime soon... Actually my approach so far to zippers has
been "hold your breath and go for it"... I'm not a great one for instructions
or careful preparations. So far things have come out pretty good! Lots of
sticky tape to hold things in place helps... (Basting? What's that?)!
Unfortunately where I live there are not much in the way of sewing supply
shops... Which is enormously irritating when you know that a large chunk
of the world's RTW production is done within a few miles of here but I can't
get hold of the raw materials!
Also regretting that I bought this really cheap/basic machine - when I get
rich there are ALL these neat (sewing) things I am going to buy!
R.
Bobby Ann Loper (THEATRE)
These I love and have used them since the 60's. Once I was finishing a
show and had forgotten to bring the little zipper foot when I moved my
machine and all into the theatre. I had to punt with my regular zipper
foot and found that it worked much better. The needle on my machine will
also move and I was able to place it a bit deeper into the zipper foot
notch. The front edge of the foot pushed the teeth of the zipper upright
and the needle sewed at just the proper spot. It all worked even better
when I handbasted the zipper before machine stitching. Or you can machine
baste as well.
Someone else must sew this way as well because the book Sewing Secrets
From the Fashion Industry, ISBN 0-87596-719-1, Rodale Press, l996 has this
method illustrated. Instead of moving the needle, they use an awl to push
the teeth up and out of the way. This is a fabulous book and I recommend
it.
Judith Humphries
I suspect that back zippers became more popular because, for
some, stepping into a dress with long back zipper is easier than
climbing into one with side opening. Suspect also, that this
became a feature in the sixties when hair styles were very
elaborate and most women didn't want to muss up their hair.
Also suspect that many of us just put those zippers in wherever
the pattern calls for them, whether they are necessary or not,
especially in tops and loose dresses. Have made a few where I
never used the zipper once it was in there.
Cheers,
Judith
Doza line2
Invisible zippers are great. I've used them for years. I've always used
a regular zipper foot and I never baste them. They always "disappear" for
me. There is one catch to them: they only come in two sizes, 7 inch and
22 inch. I don't mind trimming the bottom of the zipper, if it saves me
the hassle of conventional zippers.
Laura in Puyallup
C Beaton lowndes Lam
I was shown how to insert invisible zippers by the tutor for my City &
Guilds course last year. The zip is sewn in before the seam is stitched.
You uncoil the coil with your finger as you stitch each side from top to
bottom, stitching as close to the coil as you can. You shoot off into
the seam inlay as you approach the slide.
With the zipper stitched in, you then stitch the seam you want. The last
few centimetres of the zip should hang below the start of the seam
(that's the part where you zoom off sideways). The tapes can then be
stitched to the seam inlays.
My tutor completed her apprenticeship as a tailor in the mists of time
and is a brilliant seamstress.
Claire
Swindon, Wilts, UK
:I would love to know how you insert these zips using an ordinary zipper
Kaylene Murdoch
: I would love to know how you insert these zips using an ordinary zipper
: foot - I tried and I hit problems when I reached the bottom of the zip -
: I couldnt get the needle close enough to the zip and was left with a
: large gaping hole! I even tried to steam the coil flat but ended up
: ruining the zipper. My machine is an old Singer (it does zig-zag so I
: can change the position of the needle) but I still cant see how an
: ordinary zipper foot would work.
I have had this problem and have solved it but can't quite remember how.
I think the way I do it is that I don't use the entire length of the zip
(i.e. ideally would buy a zip longer than needed but usually haven't
thought this far ahead). I insert the zip so that the excess is at the
bottom. This means that the zip pull is lower than the start of the seam
proper when I am sewing in the zip. As I also find it a pain sewing in
the zip right up to the start of the seam, I then close the zip and
complete the seam right up to the last bit of zip sewing. I suppose if I
were clever I would sew the zip in first and sew up the rest of the seam
later, but patterns do lead you astray, don't they?
Kaylene