how do I size thread?

Dora Smith

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Jun 5, 2003, 11:37:13 PM6/5/03

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I am looking for fine linen or cotton thread for darning fine linen.

On web sites, I can't figure out what is the fine thread.

How is thread sized, and what sizes are fine thread?

Thanks!

Yours,
Dora

Dianne Lewandowski

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Jun 6, 2003, 8:40:05 AM6/6/03

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For size comparisons:

40/2 is the most common linen thread size. That is the same thing as
40/2 sewing thread, commonly sold as upholstery, carpet, or buttonhole
thread. A basting thread.

60/2 is normal sewing machine thread.

80/2 and 100/2 is quite fine, used on batistes, lawns, and cambric
linen. Actually, the word "cambric" means "fine". Think handkerchief
weight.

The first number is the size (how fat or thin the round thread is), the
second number is the number of plies. All sewing thread (that I know
of) is two-ply.

In today's world, in a common fabric shop, you won't find these numbers,
anymore. If you pick up a spool of thread, it won't say 60/2, it will
say "all-purpose". That's because, since most people don't sew anymore,
few know what all these numbers mean. <big grin> But by looking at
these cotton and cotton-poly threads, it will give you an indication of
exactly what 40/2 and 60/2 means. :-)

Remember, not all threads are made equally. I have 80/2 that is very
weak and fuzzy, and I have 100/2 that is very strong.

It may take you awhile to find exactly what you need.

Dianne

Alan Dicey

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Jun 6, 2003, 8:07:33 PM6/6/03

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Er - use diluted wallpaper paste?

-
-
-

;)

Alan Dicey

NYC-FMS

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Jun 6, 2003, 9:29:07 PM6/6/03

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YLI Corporation (a thread manufacturer) publishes an interesting booklet
on the subject. Its free at their website: http://www.ylicorp.com . Scroll
down the left hand side menu till you see a link for " thread of truth
brochure- pdf file" . Click on it. Its 17 pages, so I think that it is
easier to read if you print it out on paper .

Another article worth reading is:
http://www.superiorthreads.com/education/education.php3?ID=18

Hope this helps,

Rebecca

Dianne Lewandowski

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Jun 7, 2003, 8:27:15 AM6/7/03

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Oh, Rebecca! Thank you! What a great page. :-)
Dianne

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:31:21 AM6/7/03

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I wonder what Coats & Clark Dual Duty Plus Extra fine is? I don't see any
numbers anywhere - except for what looks like a tex number, which is the
only kind of number I was able to figure out how to decipher. It has "T6"
on it. That seems finer than ordinary light-fabric thread, which would
start at T18 or something. Store clerk insisted it was just a price code!
When I asked, OK, why would I want to pay more money for certain T numbers,
she said they were for different purposes - with the higher T numbers being
for quilting, etc. ????

I guess Sulky brand thread is supposed to be for thread literate people.
The store clerk who answered the phone said it is their brand of fine
thread. It is finer than ordinary thread, but not as fine as Coats & Clark
extra fine thread. It says, SULKY 40 942 1001, 250 yd/225m, GERMANY X.
(Should be enough thread for darning the altar linen, ja?) My guess would
be, 40 is the size thread - but by which system, and what does it mean?

Dora

"Dianne Lewandowski" <dia...@heritageshoppe.com> wrote in message
news:3EE08BA5...@heritageshoppe.com...

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:45:23 AM6/7/03

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It is very helpful.

I guess Coats & Clark ordinary dual purpose thread is tex number 33 but tex
size 27, it matters which is actually the size of the thread, and "sulky
rayon #40" is tex number 26 and tex size 24, which I'm pretty sure isn't
actually a very fine thread. I think Coats & Clark extra fine dual
purpose thread is their light fabric thread - to judge from the fact that is
has the same Coats & Clark product number of ARticle 240, as their light
fabric thread. But this pamphlet doesn't give its size.

Dora

"NYC-FMS"
<nyc...@dont-send-me-any-spam-my-filter-will-delete-it-nyc.rr.com> wrote in
message news:DdbEa.104222$h42....@twister.nyc.rr.com...

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:49:54 AM6/7/03

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According to this article, 80 or 100 weight thread is tex 10 or 12.

That should sure be fine enough - assuming that my extra fine coats and
clark is really around tex 18!

Dora

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:52:37 AM6/7/03

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That is funny!

But I bet you could help me with my other problem
how to make paper mache!

I swear the recipe my art teacher used - that I thought involved plaster of
paris - was nothing like what I've been able to find on the web.

I want to use it to make a small cave for a Christmas creche.

The one's I've been making are of corn starch and baking soda clay, works
fine for a year or so until they crack and fall apart.

Dora

"Alan Dicey" <"alan100"@a...@removethis.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk> wrote in
message news:a0aEa.35382$xd5.1...@stones.force9.net...

LC aka Fiddy

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:55:39 AM6/7/03

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I paper mache with newspaper, and a "glue" made of 2 parts water, 1 part
regular flour!

I just finished making 5 yams and 5 mangos for the school play! ROFL

The Blessed Fiddy, Patroness Saint of the Disorganized
LC in Sunny So Cal
Personality Development Specialist (Full-Time Mom!)

Dianne Lewandowski

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Jun 7, 2003, 12:03:22 PM6/7/03

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From what I read from the "superiorthreads.com" web page Rebecaa led us
to, there is no correlation between thread types.

I got into some research for my book, and learned fast that there are
few industry standards. One weight of one type thread isn't the same as
that weight from another size thread. For instance, size 25 floss isn't
the same diameter as size 25 broder.

For darning and mending, from what I know, you will choose a thread that
matches the ground thread as closely as possible. Go finer rather than
larger if you can't get an exact match.

So, you can see if your ground thread approximates the diameter of
normal sewing thread, which is 60/2. Or maybe it's closer to carpet or
"home deco" thread. Then talk to a linen thread dealer, tell her what
you're looking for, and they can probably get a close match. You may
need to get some samples. I know that Thread Needle Street will work
with you.

Dianne

Dianne Lewandowski

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Jun 7, 2003, 12:04:13 PM6/7/03

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If you are working on linen, wouldn't you want a linen thread? Or, am I
confusing posting threads here? :-)
Dianne

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 4:38:17 PM6/7/03

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I would think so. But I am finding cotton/polyester and rayon alot easier
to find, and it looks likely to serve my purpose.

Dora

"Dianne Lewandowski" <dia...@heritageshoppe.com> wrote in message

news:3EE20CFD...@heritageshoppe.com...

NYC-FMS

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Jun 7, 2003, 5:12:36 PM6/7/03

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"Dora Smith" <vill...@austin.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ZGmEa.92550$%e.60...@twister.austin.rr.com...

> I wonder what Coats & Clark Dual Duty Plus Extra fine is? I don't see
any
> numbers anywhere - except for what looks like a tex number, which is the
> only kind of number I was able to figure out how to decipher. It has
"T6"
> on it.

The "t" numbers on coats thread don't have anything to do with size. I have
a larger variety of coats thread ( serger cones, dual duty plus, 100%
cotton, rayon, button thread, jeans thread , quilt thread etc..) and the
numbers on them do not make any sense. I think it is just some kind of
internal code they use. Even the coats website is useless.

Rebecca

Kate Dicey

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Jun 7, 2003, 12:48:31 PM6/7/03

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Here's what I remember making a volcano out of at junior (grade)
school...

half a bucket of wallpaper paste

a box of newspaper, shredded finely

Soak them together for several days, then attach one of those wallpaper
paste/ paint stirring things to the power drill and give it a good mix
up, so all the paper is very finely chopped and stirred in...

add a couple or three pounds in weight of plaster of paris, and give it
another good stir...

Make your model before it sets! Once set you can varnish with PVA glue
- not the washable kind, the permanent kind! If you want it coloured,
mix powder paint in with the glue...
--
Kate XXXXXX (Alan's still teaching wife!)
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Joanne

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Jun 7, 2003, 5:31:07 PM6/7/03

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Dora Smith wrote:
> That is funny!
>
> But I bet you could help me with my other problem
> how to make paper mache!
>
> I swear the recipe my art teacher used - that I thought involved plaster of
> paris - was nothing like what I've been able to find on the web.
>
> I want to use it to make a small cave for a Christmas creche.
>
> The one's I've been making are of corn starch and baking soda clay, works
> fine for a year or so until they crack and fall apart.
>
> Dora

Have you tried a wheat flour paste and paper? Newspaper
is what we always used. A roll end (without printing)
would be ideal, but paint covers the print. IIRC we just
mixed some all purpose flour and water until we got the
goopy consistency we wanted. You can toss in some Elmer's
white school glue if you want. It's water soluble.

Soak strips of newsprint in a dish of paste, then layer
the paper until you get the form you want. For a cave,
you might want to build on an inverted mixing bowl that
you later remove to allow the creation to dry.

--
Joanne <mailto:stit...@singerlady.reno.nv.us>
http://members.tripod.com/~bernardschopen/

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 5:42:37 PM6/7/03

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Yup. That's what we did. I made a dinosaur, and I put layers strips dipped
in this I think plaster of paris mixture around a frame I'd built from coat
hanger wire.

On the web, it says that these other ingredients would eventually mold?
How do you prevent this?

Incidentally, I used half a sherbet container to build my home playdough
cave. But no way to remove it after it dried.

Dora

"Joanne" <joa...@nospam.reno.nv.us> wrote in message
news:3EE2599B...@nospam.reno.nv.us...

Joanne

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Jun 7, 2003, 6:11:51 PM6/7/03

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Embroidery threads _are_ sized, and most of them are 40
wt. You can also get 50 wt, 60 wt, etc. I have a
machine that was built for 60wt, like Madeira Toledo, but
often use Cotonne, which is 50 wt, or Sylko, which is 40
wt. Sulky 40 wt reportedly shreds, although some people
like it.

LC aka Fiddy

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Jun 7, 2003, 6:57:12 PM6/7/03

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>
>On the web, it says that these other ingredients would eventually mold?
>How do you prevent this?

I haven't had this problem if they're dried thoroughly and slowly, preferably
in the sun!.

Dianne Lewandowski

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Jun 7, 2003, 7:00:50 PM6/7/03

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Oh, please. Not these threads on linen. :-) If you know what size
thread you need, contact Lydias.com in Alabama. She has an heirloom
sewing store and carries a lot of fine cotton threads. You don't want
to mix darning/mending threads. Rayon will shine like a neon sign.
Cotton-poly won't give you the same "give/take" needed for mending a
fine linen cloth. Linen properties are so very different. It might be
ok for a patch . . . maybe. But not for darning. I'd either use all
cotton or all linen or a linen/cotton blend, if there is such a thing.

Dianne

Dianne Lewandowski

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Jun 7, 2003, 7:02:29 PM6/7/03

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Please remember that you are talking about MACHINE embroidery threads,
not hand embroidery threads. :-) There is a huge difference.
Dianne

Joanne

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Jun 7, 2003, 7:39:58 PM6/7/03

to

Dianne Lewandowski wrote:
> Oh, please. Not these threads on linen. :-) If you know what size
> thread you need, contact Lydias.com in Alabama. She has an heirloom
> sewing store and carries a lot of fine cotton threads. You don't want
> to mix darning/mending threads. Rayon will shine like a neon sign.
> Cotton-poly won't give you the same "give/take" needed for mending a
> fine linen cloth. Linen properties are so very different. It might be
> ok for a patch . . . maybe. But not for darning. I'd either use all
> cotton or all linen or a linen/cotton blend, if there is such a thing.
>
> Dianne

You're right! Cotton sewing thread (or cotton/poly) has
a shiny finish that stands out like a searchlight.
Madeira makes a cotton embroidery thread in various
weights marketed as Cotona and Tanne. They might be
easier to find at a local outlet.

Joanne

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Jun 7, 2003, 7:47:58 PM6/7/03

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People would do that by hand? Really? ;-) I just
remember how thrilled I was to learn free-motion
embroidery on a sewing machine. Then I got my little
Singer EU!

I was wrong about the threads above - Madeira makes Tanne
and Cotona, both cotton machine embroidery threads.
Cotona has a nice finish - which is to say, no finish -
it's not polished. It comes in various weights - I have
some 50 wt, but it also comes in 80 and some others, I
think.

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 9:37:29 PM6/7/03

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I noticed the shining and standing out part on the work that's been done.
It could be alot worse, and the work is small and neatly done - but it
stands out a bit.

I thought it was unavoidable.

Are you saying that embroidery floss, or some kinds of it, would not stand
out the same way?

Dora

"Joanne" <joa...@nospam.reno.nv.us> wrote in message

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Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 9:40:39 PM6/7/03

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Which weight is finer? The lowest, or the highest?

Yours,
Dora

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 9:41:52 PM6/7/03

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OK - are hand embroidery threads weighted the same way?

Dora

"Dianne Lewandowski" <dia...@heritageshoppe.com> wrote in message

news:3EE26F0...@heritageshoppe.com...

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 9:43:33 PM6/7/03

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Yup. I did a whole huge sampler for my mother, and she LOVES it!

They still sell hand embroidery threads by the scadzillions - if usually
only two brands - in all the craft and sewing stores, too.

I don't know where on earth I'd find machinery thread.

Dora

joy beeson

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Jun 7, 2003, 9:59:27 PM6/7/03

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"Dora Smith" <vill...@austin.rr.com> wrote:

> How is thread sized, and what sizes are fine thread?

I have a six-page thread chart that I haven't printed out
yet, so I don't know how comprehensive it is. (It's a PDF
file, and I'm really, really bad at reading paper files on
the screen.) I think I got it from the Snowgoose website or
maybe http://www.vansciverbobbinlace.com/2Threads.html
-- it doesn't say on the document itself; the only citation
is the author's name: Vibeke Ervø. But that's not a common
name, so Google might find it.

The people on the lace-makers' list are always complaining
about the coarseness and poor quality of linen threads, but
I followed a link from 18th Century Woman, a re-enactor's
mailing list, and found a woman who hand-spins linen sewing
thread. Unfortunately, I decided that I'd never sew
anything that fussy, and didn't bookmark the site.

Joy Beeson
--
http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson/ -- needlework
http://home.earthlink.net/~beeson_n3f/ -- Writers' Exchange
joy beeson at earthlink dot net

Joanne

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:18:21 PM6/7/03

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Dora Smith wrote:
> I noticed the shining and standing out part on the work that's been done.
> It could be alot worse, and the work is small and neatly done - but it
> stands out a bit.
>
> I thought it was unavoidable.
>
> Are you saying that embroidery floss, or some kinds of it, would not stand
> out the same way?
>
> Dora

The thread I'm thinking of is a machine embroidery thread
which I got to make lace. It has a soft finish, almost
like a cotton flake yarn, but very fine. It isn't a hand
sewing thread, but as we all know, we can always hand sew
with machine thread, though going the opposite way is a
PITA. Anyone who has wound embroidery floss onto a
bobbin can attest to that! Yes, I am suggesting a thread
that has a matte finish, rather than a shiny finish. The
old darning threads were like that - I have quite a bit of
it, but it tends to be in various tones to match
stockings. If you could find a white, it would do nicely.

Joanne

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:22:19 PM6/7/03

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Dora Smith wrote:
> Yup. I did a whole huge sampler for my mother, and she LOVES it!
>
> They still sell hand embroidery threads by the scadzillions - if usually
> only two brands - in all the craft and sewing stores, too.
>
> I don't know where on earth I'd find machinery thread.
>
> Dora

Yes, I merchandised crafts for a while, and got to fill
those little drawers with skeins of floss. You have to
look at the numbers to tell some of them apart. For hand
work, I tended to lean toward crewel, or counted
cross-stitch in very small pieces. Now, I let the machine
do it. Most stores carry some machine embroidery thread.
Hancock's carries Sulky here. There is also some Coats
& Clark rayon that comes on little spools. Shops that
sell the embroidery machines - TOL sewing machines with an
embroidery attachment - sell embroidery threads.

Joanne

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:23:08 PM6/7/03

to

Dora Smith wrote:
> Which weight is finer? The lowest, or the highest?
>
> Yours,
> Dora
>

The higher the number, the finer the thread.

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:29:54 PM6/7/03

to

So I need these brands - Cotona and Tanne?

Any other brands?

And can you recommend a particular weight?

Thanks!

Dora

"Joanne" <joa...@nospam.reno.nv.us> wrote in message

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Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:31:37 PM6/7/03

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Woah - wait a minute. Sulky's is machine embroidery thread?

I've got a spool of that. In the "soft" white. #40. But it isn't as
fine as the extra fine coats and clark dual purpose thread.

Dora

"Joanne" <joa...@nospam.reno.nv.us> wrote in message

news:3EE29DDB...@nospam.reno.nv.us...

Dora Smith

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Jun 7, 2003, 10:51:54 PM6/7/03

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Found this at a web site someone sent me to. Long price list, many kinds
of thread.

Is number 50, number 60, etc., the weight of the thread - or just the item
number for the different sizes of skeins?

Is it matte, or shiny? And is number 60 fine?

Yours,
Dora Smith

DMC
Cordonnet Special 40 (286 yds.) white, ecru
50 (286 yds.) white, ecru
60 (324 yds.) white, ecru
70 (361 yds.) white, ecru
80 (398 yds.) white, ecru
100 (472 yds.) white, ecru

Ellice

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Jun 8, 2003, 12:24:12 AM6/8/03

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On 6/7/03 7:00 PM,"Dianne Lewandowski" <dia...@heritageshoppe.com> posted:

> Oh, please. Not these threads on linen. :-) If you know what size
> thread you need, contact Lydias.com in Alabama. She has an heirloom
> sewing store and carries a lot of fine cotton threads. You don't want
> to mix darning/mending threads. Rayon will shine like a neon sign.
> Cotton-poly won't give you the same "give/take" needed for mending a
> fine linen cloth. Linen properties are so very different. It might be
> ok for a patch . . . maybe. But not for darning. I'd either use all
> cotton or all linen or a linen/cotton blend, if there is such a thing.

Definitely agree with you, Dianne. Sometimes when you use the poly-covered
cotton thread or poly thread on a natural textile, the "sharpness" of the
synthetic will wear thru the ground fabric. That's why most quilters
recommend using cotton thread for quilting on the nice cotton fabric. Also,
I believe Rainbow Gallery sells a linen thread. I'd expect that a LNS who
carries Rainbow Gallery thread would have it, or you can check their
web-site for ordering thru a shop. There's quite a bit of information about
their various threads, etc. on the site.
http://www.rainbowgallery.com/index.html

For a lot of my sewing I use Gutterman or Mettler threads - both of which
show their sizes on the spools. They each make a very fine weight in cotton,
and I have some 80 weight (I think) silk thread, which isn't too shiny. But,
you can look at their threads, the cottons come in a couple of different
weights - they're sold in the snap spools, if you only need a bit. I've seen
Mettler at a Hancock Fabrics here recently. However, personally I'm spoiled,
as G-Street Fabrics is only a few miles from my house, and they have
everything for the sewer. Their web-site is:
http://www.gstreetfabrics.com/

Worth a visit for the sewer. Classes are great - albeit pricey. I'm hoping
to teach some there next year.

Ellice in weather challenged Northern Virginia

Joanne

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Jun 8, 2003, 12:27:44 AM6/8/03

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Dora Smith wrote:
> So I need these brands - Cotona and Tanne?
>
> Any other brands?
>
> And can you recommend a particular weight?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dora
>

Cotona and Tanne are tradenames used by Madeira for these
threads. You can find sources by googling. Frankly, it
sounds like a lot of trouble to go to for this project.

Let's get a little off-the-wall and consider hitting a
couple of thrift stores or yard sales, looking for old
linens in poor condition. I'd bet that you could pull
enough long threads out of some (long scarves or
tablecloths) to supply you for this article. On the
cheap. This might be easier and even more effective than
shopping for thread, and maybe ending up with a bunch for
which you have no use.

Joanne

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Jun 8, 2003, 12:30:14 AM6/8/03

to

Dora Smith wrote:
> Woah - wait a minute. Sulky's is machine embroidery thread?
>
> I've got a spool of that. In the "soft" white. #40. But it isn't as
> fine as the extra fine coats and clark dual purpose thread.
>
> Dora
>

OK, lay a thread across the linen (with the grain) and
look at it from about 15' away. Can you see the thread?
If not, use it!

Dianne Lewandowski

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Jun 8, 2003, 8:13:22 AM6/8/03

to

Tanne 80 isn't very strong, and for hand pin stitching, doesn't hold up
well, nor for hand roll/whip. I understand heirloom machine sewers love
it. :-) It "might" work well for darning. Never tried it. There'd be
no stress on it.

Yep - people actually do this stuff by hand. Some of us are just plain,
well . . . nuts. :-)
Dianne

Dianne Lewandowski

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Jun 8, 2003, 8:21:27 AM6/8/03

to

1. You don't want floss. You want a linen thread, or a cotton thread.
Thread Needle Street carries quite fine linen thread. Or Tanne 80
might work nicely for you. It's cotton.

2. You asked about thread weight. The higher the number (100) the
finer the thread. The lower the number (40) the fatter, thicker the thread.

3. No, embroidery flosses are not weighted the same way. But if a
single strand of embroidery floss is just the right size for your cloth,
then you can use that as a "gauge" to purchase what you need. Tell your
source (Internet), or take it with you to a shop. You're not going to
find what you need at a chain fabric store. Unless it has an
exceptional market.

Actually, embroidery threads might seem to be sold by the zillions, but
there's quite a bit of it that isn't even accessible in the U.S. :-)
And chain stores don't carry most of what IS accessible.

Dianne

Dianne Lewandowski

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Jun 8, 2003, 8:23:59 AM6/8/03

to

Cordonnet is not used for repairs. It's used in some embroidery, lace
making, crochet. It's a "hard" round, shiny thread not suitable for
what you're trying to do.
Dianne

Kate Dicey

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Jun 8, 2003, 7:54:42 AM6/8/03

to

Dora Smith wrote:
>
> Yup. That's what we did. I made a dinosaur, and I put layers strips dipped
> in this I think plaster of paris mixture around a frame I'd built from coat
> hanger wire.
>
> On the web, it says that these other ingredients would eventually mold?
> How do you prevent this?
>
> Incidentally, I used half a sherbet container to build my home playdough
> cave. But no way to remove it after it dried.
>
> Dora

Make sure it is REALLY dry and varnish it. Don't let it get wet again
either!
--
Kate XXXXXX
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Dianne Lewandowski

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Jun 8, 2003, 8:26:43 AM6/8/03

to

Joanne wrote:
> OK, lay a thread across the linen (with the grain) and look at it from
> about 15' away. Can you see the thread? If not, use it!
>

I just burst out laughing. Old curmudgeon, perfectionist that I am -
if you can't tell the difference at 2 inches, use it. :-)
Dianne

Dora Smith

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Jun 8, 2003, 8:50:02 AM6/8/03

to

This is all I find on the rainbow gallery site under fibers.

RAINBOW LINEN

This linen comes in a wide color range and is very strong. It is great for
all kinds of needlepoint, including pulled work. It can be used as you would
any other yarn. Some stitchers run this yarn over their fingernail to smooth
it, but be careful you do not dull the fiber.
(18-24 count canvas)

It doesn't sound very fine.

Dora

"Ellice" <Ell...@cox.net> wrote in message
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Dora Smith

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Jun 8, 2003, 9:17:50 AM6/8/03

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Actually, it's thicker than the grain of that fabric - which is heavier than
much of what I will be darning.

But the dual duty extra fine thread is exactly the same size as the fibers
in that fabric.

Dora

"Joanne" <joa...@nospam.reno.nv.us> wrote in message

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Dora Smith

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Jun 8, 2003, 10:59:08 AM6/8/03

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Joanne:

How well have cotona and tanne held up for making lace and the kind of
sewing you do with it? Diane wrote that it isn't very strong - atleast the
#80.

Dora

"Joanne" <joa...@nospam.reno.nv.us> wrote in message

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Dora Smith

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Jun 8, 2003, 11:47:51 AM6/8/03

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I don't know if I really wrote this in answer to something else, which I
could swear is the case, or I misunderstood what Joanne and Dianne were
saying about if you can't tell the difference use "it".

I swear I thought we were discussing a particular brand and thread size. By
the time I finally pinned down the sizes of the thread I have, I lost track.

Sulky, #40, which has tex size 24. which is not real fine. This
corresponds to WEight 40, No. (#) [whatever that means] 75. XF-100, UK
120, Metric M-120, Cotton Count 46/2, needle size 70 or 9. Whatever all of
this means.

Mettler Cotton and Madeira Cotton, by contrast, have tex sizes 18 and 12.
That would be "weight" approximately 60 and 80; "No. (#)" 70 or 80;
Composition around 70/2 or > 80/2.

Coats Dual Duty poly/cotton is TEX size 27. That is about "Weight" 40,
"No. (#)" 75, US/ Canada 70/2, UK 120, Cotton Count 43/2.

Coats Dual Duty Extra Fine corresponds to the size of the piece of altar
linen I brought home - which is probably one of the coarser grained pieces
that are there. It is finer than the Sulky #40. Suppose it is Tex-18
or Tex-21?
It would have cotton count 60/2 or 80/3, "Weight" 60, Composition 70/2.

Were people suggesting that I use "Cotton Count" 80/2 or 100/2? Madeira
Cotton (one weight) has "Cotton Count" 80/2, which corresponds to the 80
figure.

Yours,
Dora

"Dora Smith" <vill...@austin.rr.com> wrote in message
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Joanne

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Jun 8, 2003, 2:08:53 PM6/8/03

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Dora Smith wrote:
> Joanne:
>
> How well have cotona and tanne held up for making lace and the kind of
> sewing you do with it? Diane wrote that it isn't very strong - atleast the
> #80.
>
> Dora
>

What I have is 50 wt, and it's plenty strong for my purposes.

Dora Smith

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Jun 8, 2003, 5:42:34 PM6/8/03

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I've printed out my thread explanation pages, analyzed them, and compiled my
own chart.

I'm just a little confused.

By which sizing system is ordinary sewing thread 60/2, and fine sewing
thread 80/2 or 100/2? I haven't found it yet.

Also, I keep finding this standard specifically applied to linen thread.
Cotton and polyester thread allegedly have their own cotton count system,
which clearly is not the same system. The numbers don't agree.

How come people keep applying it to cotton thread?

Also, what system are madeira tanne and coty or whatyoumcall it 30, 50, and
80?

Yours,
Dora

"Dora Smith" <vill...@austin.rr.com> wrote in message
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