several questions
Jacqueline
answer me :)
1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
am just wondering.
2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one is the one
size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just opened them
and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal? Oh, the
reason I got two is one came with a cutting pad I wanted and the pad
was the same price with the rotary cutter as without. The other one
is interchangeable, can be either 60-65 or 40-45, if I could remember
my numbers it would help, it too has oil on it. As far as scissors, I
got a small pair by Fiskars to clip threads with and I inherited my
mother's good sewing scissors and pinking shears, no paper has ever
been cut with these, plus I have a decent pair of scissors and we have
one fairly good pair that we do use when cutting paper, but being my
mother sewed all the time, when we were growing up we learned at a
very early age you do not cut paper with her good scissors.
3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron clothes, shoot I
hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns out needing
ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that you press
the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is this true?
If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of cloth ironed.
Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.
4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one side the
other to the other side, then thinking of this I think that would
weaken the tread. Now I have been reading all the treads seems I can
respond to the off topic ones best. Esp, if it has to do with cooking
and c-pap. But when ironing seams do you not need steam? I have
noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned have steam and
some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am not running
down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam. Which brings
up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's pretend I
am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two together or can I
wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the ironing?
5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.
6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
time, is this also true?
I act like I am going to start cutting tomorrow, but I am first going
to try some pre-cut quilt tops before I get into any big time cutting,
because I just am not sure I can do it.
I have to start PT Friday, which is going to be 3 days a week and also
is a 60 mile round trip so I am not so sure I am going to get into any
sewing other than practicing for a while. This has caused my
excitement to dwindle just a little.
I also need a new pair of glasses so will get those, too before I
start any kind of project.
I am sorry I have so many questions at one time, but I actually have a
few more but these are just the ones that came to my mind tonight as I
was putting up my quilting purchases.
Thanks for all your time and effort in answering these questions, I am
sure you all are put out with me, but this is something I really,
really want to do.
Jacqueline
http://www.mountain-breeze.com
Recipes and other fun things
Irrational Number
>
> 1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
> washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
> am just wondering.
I wash them when I get them home.
> 2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one is the one
> size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just opened them
> and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal?
I've never noticed oil, but that's probably
because I don't notice things like that. ;)
> 3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
> that you do not iron it like clothes
I iron fabric that has been washed and dried.
I press fabric that I have pieced (sewn)
together.
> 4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
> the same side?
I iron toward the darker side, unless it's
a scrappy top where just ironing toward the
darker side makes no sense because it's every
which way.
> 5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
> you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
> my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
> 5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
> is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
> on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
> will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.
This is EXACTLY why I have spent so much money
on rulers of every size square! If your dad can
make some for you, all the better. The advantage
of see-through rulers is that I can use my 6.5"
square ruler, for example, to make smaller cuts
of stuff or I can see what I'm cutting if I want
a picture centered (called "fussy cutting").
> 6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
> time, is this also true?
I never cut more than 2 because I am uncoordinated.
Keep the questions coming!
-- Anita --
Jacqueline
<nos...@nospam.com> wrote:
Anita,
What is the difference between ironing and pressing? Thanks for all
the answers.
>> 3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
>> that you do not iron it like clothes
>
>I iron fabric that has been washed and dried.
>I press fabric that I have pieced (sewn)
>together.
Jacqueline
Irrational Number
> On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:17:49 GMT, Irrational Number
> <nos...@nospam.com> wrote:
>
> Anita,
>
> What is the difference between ironing and pressing? Thanks for all
> the answers.
Oh, you had described it exactly. When ironing,
you move the iron around. When pressing, you lift
the iron so that you do not stretch the fabric. You
don't have to lift very high, though. I don't know
if people press after washing/drying, but I know
you should press seams (instead of ironing them).
-- Anita --
Cats
Cheryl & the Cats
_ _ _ _ _ _
( > Y < ) ( > Y < ) ( > Y < )
~ ~ ~
Enness Boofhead Donut
Now in hibernation with a wake-up call for Spring!
http://community.webshots.com/user/witchofthewest
catsatararatATyahooDOTcomDOTau
"Jacqueline" <coldi...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bdd5e2h8fgkpqiu3r...@4ax.com...
:I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone
will
: answer me :)
:
: 1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they
suppose to be
: washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart
yesterday and
: am just wondering.
This is ausually a cause for great debate between quilters -
to pre-wash or not to pre-wash, that is the question.
I have got to the point where the feel and texture give me a
pretty good idea about the quality of manufacture (and
likely quality of dye) and I go by that. But if I was
making a red and white quilt I would wash everything - the
reds twice! Colours I find run the worst - red, brown,
purple (all have red component). If the quilt is high
contrast lights and darks I might consider it. If the
fabric is cheaper I probably would too.
As a beginner you are safer to wash everything. You will
learn what is safe (or you will get lazy like me LOL
and become prepared to take more risks). I wash pieces
sorted into similar colours in lingerie bags. If you have
some old pillocases they will do. They will also show if a
colour has run. The bags prevent the fabric fraying away to
pulp in the bottom of the machine.
:
: 2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one
Standard size cutters are 18mm, 28mm, 45mm, and 60mm. The
oil is a protective lubricant. I usually wipe the new
blades with a tissue (watch those razor sharp edges!) to
avoid the possibility of staining fabric.
:
: 3. When ironing material that has just been washed and
dried, I read
: that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron
clothes, shoot I
: hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns
out needing
: ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that
you press
: the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is
this true?
: If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of
cloth ironed.
: Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.
Ironing (swiping the iron across) is for fabric pieces.
Pressing is for pieced blocks or sections of blocks, and
avoids the possibility of stretching / distorting the
pieces.
Warning - if you cut a lot of pieces and they get creased
before you get to assembling your blocks - DO NOT press them
unless you cannot avoid this, and then be very careful not
to distort the cut shape and size. Beginners are often
tempted to iron their patchwork to death.
:
: 4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron
both seams to
: the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one
side the
: other to the other side, then thinking of this I think
that would
: weaken the tread. Now I have been reading all the treads
seems I can
: respond to the off topic ones best. Esp, if it has to do
with cooking
: and c-pap. But when ironing seams do you not need steam?
I have
: noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned
have steam and
: some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am
not running
: down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam.
Which brings
: up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's
pretend I
: am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two
together or can I
: wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the
ironing?
Think pressing instead of ironing.
To press seam allowances to one side or open is another
debatable point. I generally prefer open seams but this is
not possible on some blocks. It is also not possible with
anything that is sewn onto a foundation. However, the
traditional "rule" is press to one side, usually to the
darker fabric. This started from the days of handsewn seams
when finger pressing seams to one side minimised the
pressure put on seams / threads. With modern quality
threads and sewing machines I do not find it necessary to do
this.
When I teach beginners I have them make one set of
four-patch blocks with seams pressed to one side, and
another set with seams pressed open. This shows them the
advantages and disadvantages of each method. Then they can
make an informed decision on which way to go. But normally
you would treat all seams in a quilt in a similar manner.
:
: 5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using
the ruler, now
: you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would
work if I got
: my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and
cut me a 4",
: 5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough
that when he
: is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind
of protector
: on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this
work? If so I
: will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch
one also.
Trust me - a sharp cutter will slice bits of even hardwood
rulers, thereby ruining the ruler and the blade. Steel
rulers are also not suitable as they wear blades. And you
can't see thru wood or steel. The great advantage to the
perspex rulers you see in shops is that you can see through
them to line up edges correctly. You don't need a lot of
rulers to begin with. For years I had only one - 6 1/2" X
24". I now have a vast array of specialty rulers and
templates (all perspex) but the basic ruler is still the
most used item. A good second ruler is a 6 1/2" X 12"
ruler.
:
: 6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4
squares at a
: time, is this also true?
I start beginners cutting folded fabric (two layers at a
time). You need to get used to handling your cutter and
ruler before you go stacking up layers of fabric. If I am
doing something basic (say - 4" squares) I have been known
to cut up to 8 layers at once. But the more layers the
greater the chance for fabric slippage and error, and each
error is multiplied by the number of layers of fabric.
Most cutting is done on fabric folded with the selvages
together. Your fabric is about 45" wide so the folded
fabric will be about 22-23" - hence the popularity of the
24" ruler for cutting. It is just wider then the folded
fabric.
Remember when cutting folded fabric to align your ruler
against the fold of fabric. If you don't cut perpendicular
(90deg) to the fold, when you open the strip you will have a
V shape instead of a long straight strip. You may need to
trim your fabric to get a straight perpendicular edge before
cutting your strips too.
Always put your ruler on the piece of fabric you want to
keep. So to get a straight edge, put the ruler on the big
piece you want to cut from, and have just the bit you want
to trim off extended out from the edge of the ruler. This
is so that if your blade "wanders" you are not cutting
further into your fabric.
When you want to cut strips, you put your ruler onto the
strip you want to keep and have the rest of your fabric
extending beyond the ruler. Then if your blade slips by
1/4" you still have your strip (say, 4" wide) intact, and
you only have to trim the 1/4" mistake off the rest of the
fabric to get another straight edge to cut from. If you
"slipped" into your strip of fabric, you would have to cut
another 4" strip.
Keep the ruler between you and the blade is also a good
"rule". Try cutting strips across (side to side) and away
from you to see which is more comfortable, and cut in long
steady stroke. DO NOT saw your fabric or push down so hard
that your knuckles glow white and you arms feel as if they
are being dislocated. If your wrist is straight, and you
apply moderate pressure with a sharp blade on a bench that
is the right height for you - you should not find cutting
hard work.
Cutting lots of layers will also wear your blade and make
you arms/shoulders ache so . . . . . . stick to single fold
/ two layers for now.
:
: I act like I am going to start cutting tomorrow, but I am
first going
: to try some pre-cut quilt tops before I get into any big
time cutting,
: because I just am not sure I can do it.
Get some high contrast cheap material and cut strips about
2-3" wide. Cross cut these into squares and practise sewing
small pieces together. This is NOT a waste of time. You
will learn how to handle your cutter and ruler as well.
Then sew two contrasting strips together and cross cut them
the same width as the original strips. Sew pairs together
to get four-patch blocks. This will teach you about
matching seams. Measure your finished four-patch blocks to
check the accuracy of your seams. This is also a good time
to compare pressing seams open or to one side.
:
: I have to start PT Friday, which is going to be 3 days a
week and also
: is a 60 mile round trip so I am not so sure I am going to
get into any
: sewing other than practicing for a while. This has caused
my
: excitement to dwindle just a little.
:
: I also need a new pair of glasses so will get those, too
before I
: start any kind of project.
Definitely get your glasses before starting LOL Much
safer for fingers, and definitely will give more accurate
results
Try to get hold of a little book called Rx for Quilters. It
is a paper back written by a doctor who happens to also be a
quilter. Easy to read in one sitting, it has lots of tips
for painless quilting.
http://tinyurl.com/rnfbn
:
: I am sorry I have so many questions at one time, but I
Patti
When ironing a piece of cloth you have bought and washed/dried, I iron
that just like clothes, though I try to move the iron along the grain.
(Sounds like your father is a woodworker, you can ask him about planing
*with* the grain). You are trying all the time not to distort the
straightness of the grain. Iron along the selvage and then keep to that
direction as nearly as you can. If you have no selvage, then just go
with the grain as best you can see it. Use steam for the large pieces.
However, pressing your piecing - seams etc - does mean pressing: down
and then up with no sideways motion. If you take a straight piece of
scrap fabric and press and then move around and sideways, you will show
yourself what the iron can do. Steam will do it much more than a dry
iron, of course.
I press with a dry iron while I am piecing. If you make a mistake with
pressing, a dry iron press can be corrected more easily than a steam
iron press. When I have finished a section, I will go to my big iron
and board and press with steam. Still no moving around, but the steam
will finalise the pressing.
Before you press any seam, press the seam as you take it from the
machine , i.e. with the pieces still together. This reduces the bulk of
that seam, and sets the thread slightly more into the fabric.
General advice is to press seams to one side - to the dark side where
possible, so that you don't get shadowing. However this is not always
practicable. You can press to either side. You can also press the
seams open. You will be using a machine, so pressing open will be fine.
Eventually, I think you will find that there will be some situations
where side pressing is better, and some where 'open' suits better.
When you are pressing the seam open, start it off with your fingers.
When pressing to the side, you will get a better result if you press
from the right side. If you press from the back, it is very possible
that you will get a tiny 'pleat' alongside the seam - try it and see!
Pressing from the top avoids this.
When you are sewing your squares together, sew pairs together first,
then those pairs to fours, and those fours to eights etc. It is better
not to go from one to two to three to four to five etc. Wouldn't matter
with your simple squares, but it will later on when you are making
blocks. When you are sewing your rows, press the seams of one row in
one direction and the seams of the next row in the opposite direction.
When you then come to put the rows together, you will find that the
seams 'nest' nicely together and help you match your corners.
I'm quite sure that's enough for now!!
.
In message <bdd5e2h8fgkpqiu3r...@4ax.com>, Jacqueline
<coldi...@yahoo.com> writes
--
Best Regards
pat on the hill
Nancy in NS
<coldi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>...but I just opened them
>and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal?
Yes, the oil on the blades keeps them from rusting before
use. You might find that replacement blades have the same
thing. I just wipe mine, *carefully* with a damp cloth. :)
julia sidebottom
Jacqueline wrote:
> I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone will
> answer me :)
>
> 1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
> washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
> am just wondering.
I never wash fabrics first unless I buy them from a garage sale or
something like that.
>
> 2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one is the one
> size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just opened them
> and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal? Oh, the
> reason I got two is one came with a cutting pad I wanted and the pad
> was the same price with the rotary cutter as without. The other one
> is interchangeable, can be either 60-65 or 40-45, if I could remember
> my numbers it would help, it too has oil on it. As far as scissors, I
> got a small pair by Fiskars to clip threads with and I inherited my
> mother's good sewing scissors and pinking shears, no paper has ever
> been cut with these, plus I have a decent pair of scissors and we have
> one fairly good pair that we do use when cutting paper, but being my
> mother sewed all the time, when we were growing up we learned at a
> very early age you do not cut paper with her good scissors.
The oil is normal to separate blades in the package
>
> 3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
> that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron clothes, shoot I
> hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns out needing
> ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that you press
> the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is this true?
> If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of cloth ironed.
> Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.
You may as well bring your ironing board and iron upstairs. Pressing
seams is one of the most important parts of making any quilt. You will
become best friends with your iron as you go along. Each part as it is
sewn together will need pressed then squared up using your ruler to be
as exact in measurement as possible to be sewn to the next pieces.
>
> 4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
> the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one side the
> other to the other side, then thinking of this I think that would
> weaken the tread. Now I have been reading all the treads seems I can
> respond to the off topic ones best. Esp, if it has to do with cooking
> and c-pap. But when ironing seams do you not need steam? I have
> noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned have steam and
> some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am not running
> down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam. Which brings
> up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's pretend I
> am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two together or can I
> wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the ironing?
In most instances your seams are pressed together. Seams are only 1/4"
so when they are put together against another seam one set will go one
way and the other the other way. Generally speaking you should always
press to the darker fabrics.
>
> 5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
> you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
> my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
> 5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
> is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
> on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
> will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.
>
Making any type of template, especially what you are talking about
will defeat the purpose of you acrylic ruler. Your ruler is marked so
that you can get perfect alignment of your pieces then finished blocks.
Try not to over think this one.
> 6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
> time, is this also true?
>
If I only cut 4 squares at a time I would never get a quilt done. Strip
cutting is the only way to go and depending on how many layers of
fabric you have in your strip pile will determine just how many squares
you cut at a time.
> Thanks for all your time and effort in answering these questions, I am
> sure you all are put out with me, but this is something I really,
> really want to do.
Quilting questions are always fun.
julia
Debra
wrote:
>I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone will
>answer me :)
>
>1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
>washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
>am just wondering.
I wash all new fabrics before using them. I quickly hand wash all the
fat quarters separately by putting them each into a container with a
tight fitting lid, add some water and a drop or two of soap, put on
lid and shake container. Repeat the process without soap for rinsing.
Drying them is quick too because they dry while I press them.
>3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
>that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron clothes, shoot I
>hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns out needing
>ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that you press
>the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is this true?
>If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of cloth ironed.
>Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.
Yes, just press down lightly, lift the iron and move it to the next
spot. Moving the iron while applying downward pressure can stretch
the fabric out of shape and you don't want to distort your quilting
fabric that way because it will make your blocks all wonky.
>4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
>the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one side the
>other to the other side, then thinking of this I think that would
>weaken the thread.
Most of the time it is best to press your seams to one side only.
> But when ironing seams do you not need steam? I have
>noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned have steam and
>some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am not running
>down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam.
Some people prefer steam, some do not. Some people even use a small
piece of wood dowel or a fingernail to finger press short seams down
quickly.
>Which brings
>up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's pretend I
>am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two together or can I
>wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the ironing?
If you are sewing squares in one long row you could wait until the end
of the row and press all seams at once, but if you are making pieced
blocks it is better to press each seam right after you sew it.
>5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
>you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
>my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
>5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
>is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
>on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
>will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.
You can buy plastic template material and make square templates.
>6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
>time, is this also true?
Cut through 4 thicknesses of fabric at one time only. The more
thickness of material you have, the more likely the stack will slip
while you are cutting resulting in pieces that are not square or not
the proper size.
>I act like I am going to start cutting tomorrow, but I am first going
>to try some pre-cut quilt tops before I get into any big time cutting,
>because I just am not sure I can do it.
>
>I have to start PT Friday, which is going to be 3 days a week and also
>is a 60 mile round trip so I am not so sure I am going to get into any
>sewing other than practicing for a while. This has caused my
>excitement to dwindle just a little.
>
>I also need a new pair of glasses so will get those, too before I
>start any kind of project.
>
>I am sorry I have so many questions at one time, but I actually have a
>few more but these are just the ones that came to my mind tonight as I
>was putting up my quilting purchases.
>
>Thanks for all your time and effort in answering these questions, I am
>sure you all are put out with me, but this is something I really,
>really want to do.
>
>
>Jacqueline
>http://www.mountain-breeze.com
>Recipes and other fun things
Debra in VA
See my quilts at
http://community.webshots.com/user/debplayshere
Debra
wrote:
>5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
>you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
>my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
>5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
>is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
>on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
>will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.
>Jacqueline
First square up the end of your fabric from one selvage to the other
one. Next measure the width of one block, let's say 6". Start at one
selvage, measure from the cut edge of the fabric 6" and mark it. Move
to another spot, about the middle of the fabric, and measure 6" from
the cut edge and mark again, repeat near the other selvage. (You may
have to make more than three markings depending on the length of your
ruler.) Now lay the ruler so the edge connects 2 or more markings and
rotary cut one very long 6" wide strip. (You may have to slide your
ruler to cut completely across the whole piece of fabric.) Now take
the 6" wide strip and measure 6" down the length and cut across the
strip to make one 6" square. Repeat measuring and cutting until you
get to the other end of the strip and you will have many 6" squares.
The same process works for all sizes of squares.
Note: I've tried to fold the fabric and rotary cut strips, but I just
end up with a bend at the middle no matter how careful I am, so I
prefer to cut through only one layer of fabric at a time.
Jane Kay
I tried to answer your questions one at a time- see below
Jane in NE Ohio
"Jacqueline" <coldi...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bdd5e2h8fgkpqiu3r...@4ax.com...
>I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone will
> answer me :)
>
> 1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
> washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
> am just wondering.
You don't HAVE to prewash your fabric. A lot of us like to- you find out if
the color will run, you preshrink the cloth, and if you will be storing it
getting the sizing out makes it less attractive to bugs and mice.
Stores don't prewash their fabric. Fat quarters and smaller are easier to
wash in the machine if you put each one into a net bag like the bags for
bras or sweaters, unfolded as much as you can & still fit it in the bag.
Wash with similar colors (reds oranges pinks reddish-purples) (blues greens
blueish -purples) (yellow cream white beige light pastels) (brown black or
black navy is how I group them. For the darker colors I use a color catcher
sheet also. If I am washing mostly fabric I use the delicate cycle with
about 1/4 the usual detergent and an extra rinse. Dry the fabric (in the bag
if you used one) until damp. Take it out and fold the large pieces as
smoothly as you can, I lay them out on my bed. They are a lot easier to iron
if they are mostly smooth already-If I will be storing them I just let them
air dry like this, since I'll have to iron it when I am ready to cut anyway.
I start ironing the smallest pieces first. If the pieces are out of square
you can pull them into straight (the threads crossing at 90 degree angles,
not always the way they were cut) easiest at this point. It is not essential
to have little pieces straight, but it really helps with the long pieces
like sashing and borders.
> 2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one is the one
> size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just opened them
> and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal? Oh, the
> reason I got two is one came with a cutting pad I wanted and the pad
> was the same price with the rotary cutter as without. The other one
> is interchangeable, can be either 60-65 or 40-45, if I could remember
> my numbers it would help, it too has oil on it. As far as scissors, I
> got a small pair by Fiskars to clip threads with and I inherited my
> mother's good sewing scissors and pinking shears, no paper has ever
> been cut with these, plus I have a decent pair of scissors and we have
> one fairly good pair that we do use when cutting paper, but being my
> mother sewed all the time, when we were growing up we learned at a
> very early age you do not cut paper with her good scissors.
The blades come with oil on them to protect the metal. Cut through a few
scraps to get the excess off.
>
> 3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
> that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron clothes, shoot I
> hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns out needing
> ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that you press
> the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is this true?
> If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of cloth ironed.
> Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.
If you are ironing yardage, just iron it. The smaller the piece the easier
it is to stretch it out of shape, so you need to press them more carefully.
> 4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
> the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one side the
> other to the other side, then thinking of this I think that would
> weaken the tread. Now I have been reading all the treads seems I can
> respond to the off topic ones best. Esp, if it has to do with cooking
> and c-pap. But when ironing seams do you not need steam? I have
> noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned have steam and
> some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am not running
> down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam. Which brings
> up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's pretend I
> am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two together or can I
> wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the ironing?
You need to iron before you cross a line of sewing with another line of
sewing, or you will end up sewing in little puckers.
> 5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
> you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
> my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
> 5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
> is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
> on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
> will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.
>
> 6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
> time, is this also true?
Try this website for basic rotary cutting instructions. They have a lot of
help on other topics also.
http://www.quilt.com/HowTo/RotaryCuttingDirections.html
Roberta Zollner
Police. But here are my answers:
"Jacqueline" <coldi...@yahoo.com> schrieb im Newsbeitrag
news:bdd5e2h8fgkpqiu3r...@4ax.com...
>I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone will
> answer me :)
>
> 1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
> washed when you buy them?
I wash all fabric as soon as I bring it in the door.
> 2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one is the one
> size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just opened them
> and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal?
Well done getting 2 cutters. I keep one on my cutting table and another next
to the sewing machine, along with a small cutting mat, so I can trim squares
to size as I go along. The ironing board lives next to the machine too. Sew,
press, trim to size.
Oil is no problem, wipe off excess with a tissue. Watch your fingers!
> 3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
> that you do not iron it like clothes
I press new fabric while it's still damp. Go ahead and iron , it will tend
to relax as you fold it up to put on the shelf. Try to iron with the grain,
not on the bias. You need to be more careful when pressing your pieced
blocks.
> 4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
> the same side?
I mostly press to one side, the darker side if possible. Finger press the
seam first (I use a little wooden butter knife for this), then press nice
and flat with the iron.
Which brings
> up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's pretend I
> am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two together or can I
> wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the ironing?
Press all seams before you cross them with another seam. So yes, you could
sew a whole row of squares together and then press. If the squares are
small-ish though, it might be easier to handle one seam at a time. Try and
see.
> 5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
> you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
> my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
> 5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
> is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
> on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work?
No idea! Try one and see. I'd be worried about accuracy. 3.999" is close but
not the same as 4". Also, lots of times you'll want to cut odd sizes, much
easier with a real ruler.
> 6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
> time, is this also true?
I have been known to cut 6 or even 8 with a sharp new blade. But very
carefully! It didn't save me any time. And 4 squares tend to be a good unit
to count with -you need 4 corners for an Ohio star block for example.
Patti
Debra.
But, I did find out quite by chance, in a class, about one thing I was
doing that contributed to the 'fold kink'. The solution was to have the
fold closest to you, i.e. parallel to the edge you are cutting from, and
begin cutting from the fold. You might already do that, of course; but
I was tending to put the fold furthest from me. Odd but true!
.
In message <dvd6e21c8h900i16g...@4ax.com>, Debra
<debn...@worldnet.att.net> writes
snipped
>Note: I've tried to fold the fabric and rotary cut strips, but I just
>end up with a bend at the middle no matter how careful I am, so I
>prefer to cut through only one layer of fabric at a time.
>Debra in VA
>See my quilts at
>http://community.webshots.com/user/debplayshere
--
Kate Dicey
> I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone will
> answer me :)
>
> 1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
> washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
> am just wondering.
This is the stuff of religious wars, my dear! Beware!
Actually, when you buy them they are NOT washed. If you want to wash
them, do. We tend always to wash fabric that is going into swap blocks
or squishies since so many of us suffer from allergies. Beyond that,
was as and when you please! (I know, I'm a heretic! ;P )
>
> 2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one is the one
> size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just opened them
> and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal? Oh, the
> reason I got two is one came with a cutting pad I wanted and the pad
> was the same price with the rotary cutter as without. The other one
> is interchangeable, can be either 60-65 or 40-45, if I could remember
> my numbers it would help, it too has oil on it. As far as scissors, I
> got a small pair by Fiskars to clip threads with and I inherited my
> mother's good sewing scissors and pinking shears, no paper has ever
> been cut with these, plus I have a decent pair of scissors and we have
> one fairly good pair that we do use when cutting paper, but being my
> mother sewed all the time, when we were growing up we learned at a
> very early age you do not cut paper with her good scissors.
Oil on the blades IS normal as they are NOT stainless. Just wipe over
with a tissue or soft cloth before use.
And good on the scissor thoughts! :)
>
> 3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
> that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron clothes, shoot I
> hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns out needing
> ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that you press
> the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is this true?
> If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of cloth ironed.
> Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.
You can iron any way you please so long as you get the flatness you
want! Pressing (the lift and press way) is great for some construction
details in piecing, but for squashing the wrinkles out of FQ's I steam
iron (the only ironing I do other than during garment construction. DH
does the family ironing!).
>
> 4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
> the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one side the
> other to the other side, then thinking of this I think that would
> weaken the tread. Now I have been reading all the treads seems I can
> respond to the off topic ones best. Esp, if it has to do with cooking
> and c-pap. But when ironing seams do you not need steam? I have
> noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned have steam and
> some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am not running
> down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam. Which brings
> up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's pretend I
> am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two together or can I
> wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the ironing?
Depends... If I have LOADS of seams coming together in the middle of a
star, I'll press whatever way gives me the flattest outcome! Other than
the, I press to the dark side... I.e. press the seam together towards
the darker fabric. Helps to hide the seam allowances! And I steam all
the time!
Oh, and I wait until I have a whole pile of rows before running off to
the iron! I have a small iron (not as small as a travel iron) and table
top board in the sewing room, but for major piles I pop down and fill up
the mad 3.15 from Paddington steam generator iron in the conservatory.
For tiny details I have a Clover Mini iron, also useful for welding
jewels on wedding frocks...
>
> 5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
> you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
> my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
> 5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
> is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
> on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
> will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.
For something like a 6" finished square, I'll cut a 6.5" strip, using
the ruler lines as a guide, then use those lines to help cut it into
squares. Here's a more detailed explanation:
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayArticle?articleNum=ae0346
>
> 6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
> time, is this also true?
Possibly no more than 4 layers of fabric at a time is wise when you are
new to the method. I've cut up to 8 with the bigger cutter, but you run
the risk of the layers slipping so the squares are distorted.
>
> I act like I am going to start cutting tomorrow, but I am first going
> to try some pre-cut quilt tops before I get into any big time cutting,
> because I just am not sure I can do it.
Ge some gash fabric and practice! I used sheeting offcuts and spent an
afternoon getting the technique sorted.
>
> I have to start PT Friday, which is going to be 3 days a week and also
> is a 60 mile round trip so I am not so sure I am going to get into any
> sewing other than practicing for a while. This has caused my
> excitement to dwindle just a little.
Don't let it! Once you start practising, you'll soon get all mad for it
again! :)
>
> I also need a new pair of glasses so will get those, too before I
> start any kind of project.
Good move! But don't let the not quite right ones stop you doing some
trial cutting on any ole bits of cloth! ;)
>
> I am sorry I have so many questions at one time, but I actually have a
> few more but these are just the ones that came to my mind tonight as I
> was putting up my quilting purchases.
Hehehehe... An important part of the process, that stowing of the kit,
petting each thing as you put it in its allotted space, stoking the
fabric, sniffing it...
>
> Thanks for all your time and effort in answering these questions, I am
> sure you all are put out with me, but this is something I really,
> really want to do.
And helping you do it is something WE really want to do, so don't worry
about it! Better to ask the questions first than make the mistakes first!
--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
Pati Cook
perpendicular to the fold. It is easy to cut a width of fabric folded
twice, selvedge together then fold carried to selvedges, as long as the
folds are all parallel and you cut perpendicular to them you will get a
straight piece.
This is actually more accurate than cutting a long piece because many of
us have shorter arms, have problems "controlling" the longer ruler, and
don't have the "oomph" to cut through the fabric all the way out at a
long reach across the table.
I have, but very seldom use, a 24" long ruler. Mostly use it for
trimming quilt edges after quilting. But have several 4" (or 4 1/2") x
14" rulers (my favorite) and a couple of 6(1/2)" x 12" rulers. I get
much more accurate cuts this way.
Of course everyone has to find their own best way. <BG>
Jacqueline, try things on cheap/"throw away" fabric, or old worn out
sheets or what ever you can get like that. Do try to make sure they are
cotton because blends with polyester will dull your rotary blades faster.
Practice the other information given about cutting and you will
eventually become more comfortable with it.
And always feel free to ask questions. you will get many different
answers to any one question. Try them, or as many as you can until you
find the one that works for you.
Pati, in Phx
Sally Swindells
were taught - when you have cut a strip of fabric with your Rotary
Cutter, SHUT THE CUTTER!! every time (unless, of course you have one
of those self shutting ones). So, Cut, Shut, Cut, Shut!
Teacher used to really be cross with us if we forgot, and now its
second nature. They really are lethal, and if you knock it off the
table and it hits your foot, or if you catch your hand on it, you will
be the thing that is cut, and they cut very deep.
--
Sally at the Seaside ~~~~~~~~~~ (uk)
http://community.webshots.com/user/sallyswin
On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:52:13 GMT, Irrational Number
julia sidebottom
> Just thought of the Golden Rule from my LQS - the very first thing we
> were taught - when you have cut a strip of fabric with your Rotary
> Cutter, SHUT THE CUTTER!! every time (unless, of course you have one
> of those self shutting ones). So, Cut, Shut, Cut, Shut!
>
> Teacher used to really be cross with us if we forgot, and now its
> second nature. They really are lethal, and if you knock it off the
> table and it hits your foot, or if you catch your hand on it, you will
> be the thing that is cut, and they cut very deep.
> --
>
I for one know that rule very well. Ask my right fore finger and the 12
stitches it had from my rotary cutter shortly after I first started
using a rotary some 12 years ago.
julia
Boca Jan
useful. Seems like everything has been covered very well. It was interesting
to see how many people do what I do!
Boca Jan
"Jacqueline" <coldi...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bdd5e2h8fgkpqiu3r...@4ax.com...
Jacqueline
from your day and every day duties to answer my questions. I have a
lot to digest and as soon as I find out what days I will be going to
PT I will start to sew. I am just too excited about this and I know
one day I will have a quilt to show for this excitement. When I start
it I will probably post pictures daily so you all can critique me on
what I am doing right and wrong. I want it to work out right.
Thanks with all my heart,
Jacqueline
Ceridwen
this group to reply to questions. I enjoy reading the answers. Thanks to
all you new quilters, a refresher is good. ;o)
--
Carole
Champlain, NY
http://photos.yahoo.com/ceridwen_rhea
"Jacqueline" <coldi...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bdd5e2h8fgkpqiu3r...@4ax.com...
b...@cs.toronto.no-uce.edu
Jacqueline <coldi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Again, I would like to thank all of you for personally taking time out
>from your day and every day duties to answer my questions. I have a
>lot to digest and as soon as I find out what days I will be going to
>PT I will start to sew. I am just too excited about this and I know
>one day I will have a quilt to show for this excitement. When I start
>it I will probably post pictures daily so you all can critique me on
>what I am doing right and wrong. I want it to work out right.
Just do it. No matter how hard you try, you'll never make a perfect
quilt, and your first quilt is going to be a lot less perfect than your
subsequent efforts. Aim to make it a learning effort. I aim to make
each quilt a learning effort. Make a small quilt, crib-size or
lap-size, don't spend a lot on fabrics, choose a simple design and if
you don't like it when you're finished, donate it to a women's shelter,
nursing home or other recipient who will not criticize you for any
flaws, or even notice them!
Many people have a tendency to get frozen about trying new things.
They will spend a lot of effort accumulating supplies and equipment,
thinking about it, worrying if they're doing the right things, unable
to start, afraid to make a mistake. Most people have a streak of this,
and have to learn to overcome it. It boils down to fear of failure,
and setting your standards too high. You can't be good at anything
without going through a stage of fumbling beginner. Expect to make
mistakes so don't sweat it when you do. Mistakes teach you what not to
do next time. Don't be too critical of flaws. Even the real experts
make quilts with imperfections. As you gain experience, the flaws will
be less frequent and less obvious. Besides, perfection is for
machines. Why aspire to imitate a machine? It's the little (or not so
little) irregularities that show the quilt is a unique handmade object,
not something from a factory.
You should be able to put a small quilt with e.g. 4-6" square patches
together in a few hours, and machine-quilt it in a simple straight line
design in another few hours. You'll have gotten a big start on all the
basic skills of quilt making and be ready to try something more complex
for your next effort, or to make a better version of the same quilt
with less time and effort and stress. You'll have something to show
for your efforts, to keep or give away, and you'll be much more
confident for the next quilt.
Note that a lap quilt for a person in a wheelchair should be no larger
than 36" x 45" to avoid getting entangled with the wheels. You can put
something like this together from large squares quickly, and it will be
greatly appreciated by someone in a nursing home. Ditto, a child's
quilt maybe 45" square will be a wonderful morale-booster for a woman
and child in a shelter for the abused or homeless. In either case, use
strong washable fabrics and polyester batting, which is the best and
easiest for simple and minimal machine quilting anyway, and withstands
frequent washing well. (I usually use strong or dark colors and
patterned rather than solid fabrics for these quilts, avoiding whites
and pastels, so dirt won't show as readily. It's embarrassing for a
disabled person to spill things and it really helps if stains don't
show!)
For pattern ideas, I recommend www.quiltville.com. Try Streak of
Sunshine, a quick, attractive and easy pattern, with detailed
illustrated instructions, ideal for a beginner. Bonnie, the author of
these pages, has an incredible store of wonderful ideas at all levels
of difficulty, but many super-easy designs that look much more
complicated to the non-quilter's eye than they are to make. It's all
free, and her friendly and funny style is very encouraging for the
beginner.
So relax and have fun. Remember that those prize-winning quilts on web
pages were made by people who started out as inexperienced as you are,
and developed their skills over many years and many projects. If you
could make a prize-winning quilt first time around, those quilts
wouldn't be very impressive, would they? And you don't have to aim for
a world-class quilt. Just aim to enjoy yourself, learn, and share your
quilts with others who will be as amazed at your early efforts as you
are at the show quilts.
Pat in Virginia
PAT
@karentucker.com Karen, Queen of Squishies
Karen, Queen of Squishies
Cats
get a bottle of '42 Port for a friend's 42nd birthday
ROFL
--
--
Cheryl & the Cats
_ o _ o 0 0
( > Y < ) ( > Y < ) ( > Y < )
~ ~ U
Enness Boofhead Donut
Starting to wake from hibernation!
http://community.webshots.com/user/witchofthewest
catsatararatATyahooDOTcomDOTau
"Pat in Virginia" <pat.q...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:fWnFg.14395$yO4.13035@dukeread02...
: 42 ... answer for each question is 42.
Ceridwen
for the answer. lol
--
Carole
Champlain, NY
http://photos.yahoo.com/ceridwen_rhea
"Pat in Virginia" <pat.q...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:fWnFg.14395$yO4.13035@dukeread02...
Jacqueline
chocolate.
Jacqueline
Jacqueline