Inkjet printing?
Michele Hardy
I think enough of us have tried printing directly onto fabric with
poor results with HP ink. No matter what, it seems to wash out.
WHat I'm wondering is, if anyone has tried the new refill kits made
by Nucote? I've seen them advertised in computer catalogs and at Office
deopt. Since it is (?) a different manufacturer, maybe the ink is
washable and colorfast?
Michele
Mary Yohn
Judy Heim, in her computer book, mentions a source for permanent ink to
be used in inkjet printers. If you're interested, email me and I'll look
up the reference. As I recall she mentioned a specific company with an
address, but did not mention actually trying out this ink.
Otherwise, she recommends spraying a couple of light coats of Krylon
fixative on the printing. The Krylon does stiffen the fabric somewhat.
Mary
Michele Hardy
Mary Yohn wrote:
>
>
> Judy Heim, in her computer book, mentions a source for permanent ink to
> be used in inkjet printers.
> fixative on the printing. The Krylon does stiffen the fabric somewhat.
>
is no other company making ink cartridges with waterproof ink.
As to krylon, it helps some, but not completely.
Michele
EDK/JLB
Has anyone tried setting the dye with Retayne? I'm really curious about
this thread since I'm getting my new inkjet tomorrow (epson stylus
color)!. Any suggestions as what to do, or what definitely not to do?
Janna
In article <32DEEB...@pclink.com>, Mary Yohn <jy...@pclink.com> wrote:
> > I think enough of us have tried printing directly onto fabric with
> > poor results with HP ink. No matter what, it seems to wash out.
> > WHat I'm wondering is, if anyone has tried the new refill kits made
> > by Nucote? I've seen them advertised in computer catalogs and at Office
> > deopt. Since it is (?) a different manufacturer, maybe the ink is
> > washable and colorfast?
>
> Judy Heim, in her computer book, mentions a source for permanent ink to
> be used in inkjet printers. If you're interested, email me and I'll look
> up the reference. As I recall she mentioned a specific company with an
> address, but did not mention actually trying out this ink.
>
Jenny
In article <edk-170197...@modem-0395.rns.tamu.edu>,
e...@tamu.edu/jlb...@zeus.tamu.edu (EDK/JLB) wrote:
> Has anyone tried setting the dye with Retayne? I'm really curious about
> this thread since I'm getting my new inkjet tomorrow (epson stylus
> color)!. Any suggestions as what to do, or what definitely not to do?
>
> Janna
>
>
I'm sure I have seen a posting before that says Retayne DOES NOT WORK to
set inkjet printing. Retayne is useful for setting DYES and inkjets print
with a WASHABLE INK, which is not and cannot be made permanent when
printed directly onto fabric. I'm currently experimenting with Canon
transfer medium, but I am having a few problems with it just now as well.
I must consult again with Dawn D's home page.
Jenny in Calgary
Michele Hardy
Greenbriar wrote:
>
> Pardon an intrusion from a lurker... The local Kinkos copy shops in my town
> can transfer color photographs on t-shirts, canvas bags, etc. They must use a
> color ink that is relatively permanent. It may not work in a regular inkjet,
> but maybe you could ask them about it.
>
> --Greenbiar
> Yes, but aren't they just using an iron-on type product similar to Canon's t-shirt
transfer paper? I can use this paper in my printer with ok results, but the outcome
is stiff and plasticy, not at all the same feel and appearance as direct printing.
Michele
DDuperault
They _are_ using a special transfer paper, but there are several
different kinds available. There is one that works with the
top-of-the-line colour copiers and transfers to fabrics with almost no
stiffness. I had some t-shirts printed up for an event two years ago and
they looked and felt great. Then the shop moved to a cheaper copier, and
in addition to lower quality graphics, the transfer residue was stiffer
and left a greyish cast around the image.
I have seen what the local copy shops use, and it's like paper when it
transfers onto the fabric -- thin, flexible, but slightly smooth and
stiff. The Canon papers are at the botton, being slightly plastic in
their texture once transferred, but still 100% better than that rubber
transfer media out of a bottle.
If you want really good transfers, find a shop that is using
top-of-the-line equipment and ask for a sample. I was told the copier
cost something like $4000 a month to lease, so a lot of your little
local places probably can't afford to use it.
Dawn
--
Batgirl was a Librarian, too!
http://www.he.net/~dduperal/
reply-to: ddupe...@aol.com
Greenbriar
Pardon an intrusion from a lurker... The local Kinkos copy shops in my town
can transfer color photographs on t-shirts, canvas bags, etc. They must use a
color ink that is relatively permanent. It may not work in a regular inkjet,
but maybe you could ask them about it.
--Greenbiar
with In article <32DEEB...@pclink.com>, jy...@pclink.com says...
Holly Sullivan
> In article <32DEEB...@pclink.com>, jy...@pclink.com says...
> >
> >> I think enough of us have tried printing directly onto fabric with
> >> poor results with HP ink. No matter what, it seems to wash out.
HP's -LASER- jet printer ink is permanent. Sounds like you have it
confused with HP's DESKjet ink, which likely needs to be sprayed with a
fixative. It's decidedly not permanent right out of the printer.
No affiliation with HP other than my dear-husband-to-be works for 'em. (g)
-- Via DLG Pro v1.15
Steve and Terri
Greenbriar (s-n...@uiuc.edu) wrote:
: Pardon an intrusion from a lurker... The local Kinkos copy shops in my town
: color ink that is relatively permanent. It may not work in a regular inkjet,
: but maybe you could ask them about it.
I don't know what technology the color copy machine at your Kinkos is using,
but even if it's a color ink that will wash out without some fixative, it's
the transfer medium (the paper that is used to make the iron-on) that makes
it permanent. Even transfers made with my Canon BJ-600 are permanent.
Terri
--
Terri Carl
ter...@neosoft.com
j. joens
Some time back someone posted about pre-treating fabric with alum mordant
before printing and that would make the printing permanent. I never saw
anyone follow up on that post, and I haven't tried it myself.
Anybody else tried it? Maybe the person who posted that info could
comment?
Jeanne (jjo...@netins.net)
Jenny <rub...@cadvision.com> wrote in article
<rubinb-1901...@ts21ip248.cadvision.com>...
sil...@internexus.net
j. joens wrote:
>>Some time back someone posted about pre-treating fabric with alum mordant before printing and that would make the printing permanent. I never saw anyone follow up on that post, and I haven't tried it myself.
Anybody else tried it?
I have gotten fair to middlin results in printing with a jet printer. I
don't particularly like the stiffness of transfer paper, and originally
started printing with a plain ole HP DeskJet (they didn't have numbers
when this one was made). The results were miserable. Then I got an HP
660C and went through every mordant that I (pea brain that I am) could
think of. Alum stunk as a mordant. It made absolutely vibrant colors
in printing (some of the mordants change the colors), but did nothing
for making the inks permanent. Plus, it couldn't be heat set or the
alum scortched terribly. Of course, alum can't be left in the fab as it
will rot the fab in a few short weeks, so it *must* be washed/rinsed
fairly quickly. Alum is a total disaster. I got better results with
Retayne. I used the Retayne straight out of the bottle, soaked the
fabric and let it dry into a parchment like state. Then I ironed it
straight and fed it through the printer (its so stiff, it doesn't need
any freezer paper). The images must be dried and left to time-set, and
steam set with plenty of steam. And its still a hit or miss
proposition. I was able to get quasi-pemanent images, but lots of
detail and/or color can be lost in the wash. Also, it varies from color
to color. Plus there's a difference between the ink that comes from the
dedicated black cartridges and the color cartridges. I did find that
putting HeatNBond vinyl on the images helped to retain alot of the color
(but then we're right back to yicky feeling fabric). Somebody told me
to try colorless extender, which I did. Now the colorless extender
didn't help a whole lot, and it can smear with application. One thing I
did find alum helped with was smearing. Images over alum really didn't
smear alot in the applications of coatings. Images with retayne still
might smear in applications, and were not *true color* in that the reds
all became pinks.
I also found that Canon printers (the 4000 series) made more durable
images and that horrendously expensive Cannon fabric sheets worked
wonderfully well in the Cannon (not in the HP). I'd love to know what
the mordant in the fabric sheets is :) Its not retayne, I'll tell you
that.
Oddly enough, I haven't gotten around to trying vinegar (letting it soak
into the fab, then drying it before printing). Always do it this way...
you really don't have the opportunity to put the images in a rinse as
they wash right out in the rinses. It seems to me the mordants have to
be impreganted in the fabric BEFORE printing.
I haven't messed with any of the refill cartridges yet. I did call
RAMCO that place advertised in the Needleworker's Computer Companion and
they DON"T have any waterproof inks. I've been contemplating refilling
a cartridge with india ink... it can only ruin the cartridge (but what
will I do if it globs out in my printer, LOL.
I'd love to exchange messages with any quilter who wants to really
explore this wonderful concept.
Margaret in NJ
Paula Dennee
Mary Yohn wrote:
> > I think enough of us have tried printing directly onto fabric with
I've done several labels (only for wallhangings) using my InkJet 560C.
After printing directly onto muslin ironed onto freezer paper, I let it
air dry for as long as 24 hours (sometimes longer because I've gone on
to something else <g>. I then heat set it with an iron. After it has
cooled I spray it with Krylon Sprayable Fixative Matte Finish #1311
(cost ~$7.53 US). This makes the ink fairly permanent but also adds a
slight stiffness and smell to the label -- that's why I only use this
technique on hangings that I'm sure will not be heirloom. You can wash
this and the ink does fade somewhat.
I've found that creating a label in CorelDraw, printing on paper, then
tracing onto fabric using a light box and permanent Pigma Pens gives
better and longer lasting results. :-)
*********************************************************************
Paula Dennee | The opinions expressed here are my own.
"If you obey all the rules you miss all the fun." - Katharine Hepburn
*********************************************************************
Dean Custis
I have made many labels using the Cannon inkjet (610) using any cotton
fabric ironed onto freezer paper. Just run it through the printer. I
color fast it by spraying the just printed sheet with a vinegar/water
solution and then spray iron it dry. Colors are vibrant and last through
many wash cycles. I have made some intricate labels in color and they are
all holding up fine - even my granddaughters favorite baby quilt that
"takes some beating and washing". Hope that helps you. I am a HP printer
fan but I've heard from others that the inkjet ink doesn't hold well in
this application but I have had no personal experience. DEAN
Nancy Goins
Has anyone tried Aleene's "Napkin Applique" glue - supposed to dry
clear, soft - while allowing paper products to be washed over and over
and over - with no tearing or fading. I don't have an inkjet - but
maybe this might work???
Nancy in FL
Woodeca
I've also been exploring this technique. I investigated several printers
available for Macs and finally chose an Apple Stylewriter which uses a
"water-resistant" ink system - not perfect but much better than HP
printers. The Stylewriter is similar to Canon but I don't know if the inks
are the same. The Nu-Kote refill inks are NOT water-resistant so I've
stuck with the Apple ones.
However, I do use Retayne to set the ink. I let the finished print set
undisturbed for at least 24 hours (I don't even peel the freezer paper
off) and then heat set with a hot iron (print is between 2 white paper
towels). Then I immerse it in a hot-water Retayne for 20 minutes (per the
instructions) and agitate occassionally. I put one or two prints per 8 cup
bath ( I submerge an 8 cup Pyrex measuring bowl in a sink full of hot
water to keep the Retayne bath hot). Then I rinse very briefly in warm
water and lightly blot the print between paper towels. Then I immediately
iron the print dry with a hot (no steam) iron - also between paper towels.
This usually does the trick though I'm not certain which is the step that
does it.
I do have some color loss - the blacks become a dark grey and other colors
lose their intensity - but the print usually stays sharp and readable.
Also, the fabric feels great and I'm able to go back into the print with
fabric markers or crayons.
Good luck to you all!
Caroline Wooden
woo...@aol.com <or> cwo...@ix.netcom.com
woo...@aol.com
Stephen and Melissa Jones
Woodeca wrote:
>
> I've also been exploring this technique. I investigated several printers
> available for Macs and finally chose an Apple Stylewriter which uses a
> "water-resistant" ink system - not perfect but much better than HP
> printers. The Stylewriter is similar to Canon but I don't know if the inks
> are the same. The Nu-Kote refill inks are NOT water-resistant so I've
> stuck with the Apple ones.
I don't know about being water resistant, but the Apple Stylewriter
2400 takes the Canon BC-20 and BCI-21 ink. Canon makes the printer for
Apple.
Melissa J
Stephen and Melissa Jones
Paula Dennee wrote:
> After it has
> cooled I spray it with Krylon Sprayable Fixative Matte Finish #1311
> (cost ~$7.53 US). This makes the ink fairly permanent but also adds a
> slight stiffness and smell to the label -- that's why I only use this
> technique on hangings that I'm sure will not be heirloom. You can wash
> this and the ink does fade somewhat.
I don't know how Krylon will affect fabric, but I had a can of
fixative that fell into a box with my old hankerchiefs and someway
sprayed them. By the time I found the disaster area the fixative had
eaten through or rotted my hankies. I would be very careful about using
it on anything delicate.
Melissa J
Stephen and Melissa Jones
I haven't tried it, but it looked, smelled, and yes,even tasted like all
her other glues. I suspect she has one formula and lots of bottles.
Melissa J
Mac & Kimberly Andrew
I have used it (although I must admit I have never tasted it). It does dry
clear and pliable. Works well with paper products as well as fabric, and
they can be washed over and over. I am careful applying paper to anything,
as it can tear while you are applying it to your garment/item. I also wash
on the gentle cycle _anything_ on which I have done special crafting.
Kimberly