Re: Help with watercolor quilt
Pat in Virginia
Although I have not done a colorwash/watercolor quilt
yet, I do have some fabric set aside for one. I have a
book by Magret and Slusser, and I've seen a great
demonstration by Cindi Edgerton. From these I've
learned that is is best to carefully sort from light to
dark values BEFORE starting on the design; there would
most likely be about 5 or 6 piles of the value range.
That is the main thing I remember. Good luck. PAT
MaleQuilter wrote:
> If this is a duplicate of my post from earlier this morning, just
> overlook the errors that naturally occur with folks my age.
>
> I've just started putting fabric on my design board and I've got a
> problem. I guess I am just not free spirited enough.
>
> After arranging about a fourth of my project area and stepping back to
> review, I discovered that I had put lots of pieces from the same
> fabric. The effect was pretty but it was more realistic than
> impressionistic. Both books I have on watercolor quilts really
> emphasize the mottled look.
>
> It also looks like I am going to have a problem getting a smooth
> transition from the dark to light areas.
>
> I would appreciate any hints and tips from your experience with
> watercolor or colorwash projects.
>
> Jerry in North Alabama
> http://community.webshots.com/user/MaleQuilter
>
Patti
messages!
.
In message <1176912094.9...@y5g2000hsa.googlegroups.com>,
MaleQuilter <putt...@hotmail.com> writes
>If this is a duplicate of my post from earlier this morning, just
>overlook the errors that naturally occur with folks my age.
>
>I've just started putting fabric on my design board and I've got a
>problem. I guess I am just not free spirited enough.
>
>After arranging about a fourth of my project area and stepping back to
>review, I discovered that I had put lots of pieces from the same
>fabric. The effect was pretty but it was more realistic than
>impressionistic. Both books I have on watercolor quilts really
>emphasize the mottled look.
>
>It also looks like I am going to have a problem getting a smooth
>transition from the dark to light areas.
>
>I would appreciate any hints and tips from your experience with
>watercolor or colorwash projects.
>
>Jerry in North Alabama
>http://community.webshots.com/user/MaleQuilter
>
--
Best Regards
pat on the hill
Estelle Gallagher
(I've just bought myself one and love it!)
"MaleQuilter" <putt...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1176912094.9...@y5g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
Julia in MN
buy one of those little peephole things like you would put in a door. It
looks like this:
<http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2325435&cp&kw=peephole&origkw=peephole&sr=1>.
It works well and is probably less expensive. Or look through the view
finder on a camera or the wrong end of binoculars.
Julia in MN
--
This message has been scanned for viruses by Norton Anti-Virus
Estelle Gallagher
--
Estelle UK
http://uk.photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos
"Julia in MN" <jaccola-AT-cha...@aaaa.aaa> wrote in message
news:O1vVh.853$go5...@newsfe12.lga...
CATS
sheet of red or green cellophane) to see the true colour
values. Your eye will be dragged back to that one area you
aren't sure about whether it is "wrong" or not and seeing
the overall effect through a colour filter (like seeing it
on B&W TV) will stop your eye going straight to that one
fabric.
--
Cheryl & the Cats in OZ
o o o o
( > Y < ) ( > Y < )
Boofhead Donut
http://community.webshots.com/user/witchofthewest
catsatararatATyahooDOTcomDOTau
"Estelle Gallagher" <galla...@btinternet.com> wrote in
message news:BIOdnWXRRIKQGbvb...@bt.com...
: NOW you tell me Julia!! lol
: >
:
:
Sandy
Julia in MN <jaccola-AT-cha...@aaaa.aaa> wrote:
> Instead of buying a reducing glass, you can go to the hardware store and
> buy one of those little peephole things like you would put in a door. It
> looks like this:
> <http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2325435&cp&kw=peephole
> &origkw=peephole&sr=1>.
> It works well and is probably less expensive. Or look through the view
> finder on a camera or the wrong end of binoculars.
>
> Julia in MN
The wrong end of my binoculars didn't show me anything <G>, but I do use
a peephole quite successfully. As you say, Julia, they're a lot less
expensive than a reducing glass! :)
--
Sandy in Henderson, near Las Vegas
sfoster 1 (at) earthlink (dot) net (remove/change the obvious)
http://home.earthlink.net/~sfoster1
desert quilter
> > If this is a duplicate of my post from earlier this morning, just
> > overlook the errors that naturally occur with folks my age.
>
> > I've just started putting fabric on my design board and I've got a
> > problem. I guess I am just not free spirited enough.
>
> > After arranging about a fourth of my project area and stepping back to
> > review, I discovered that I had put lots of pieces from the same
> > fabric. The effect was pretty but it was more realistic than
> > impressionistic. Both books I have on watercolor quilts really
> > emphasize the mottled look.
>
> > It also looks like I am going to have a problem getting a smooth
> > transition from the dark to light areas.
>
> > I would appreciate any hints and tips from your experience with
> > watercolor or colorwash projects.
>
> > Jerry in North Alabama
>
> - Show quoted text -
Hi Jerry,
Here is my method (such as it is):
First I tried very hard not to have any duplicate fabrics just to
avoid the problem you mention. If I couldn't tell if two pieces were
from the same fabric, I figured they were different enough.
Next, I sorted the fabrics into darks, mediums, and lights. Then
using from each pile where appropriate, I laid out my entire pattern
according to where dark, medium and light fabrics should go without
regard to arranging the individual fabric squares. Afterwards, I
started arranging the individual fabric squares to better emphasize
the pattern. I would arrange, leave it for awhile and come back to
get the initial impression of the effect. Then tweak as necessary.
This process often went on for several days.
Do not expect the transitions from light to dark to be perfectly
smooth--the fact that it isn't perfectly smooth is what gives
watercolor its effect. One trick that I often found improved a
transition was not so much changing out a fabric, but turning the
square. Sometimes the pattern/color on one side of a square is darker
than on the opposite side.
Best regards,
Michelle in NV
http://community.webshots.com/user/desert_quilter
Anne Rogers
fabric scraps into light medium and dark, then within each group, arrange
again, so you have light-light, light=medium, light-dark and so on, I guess
if you still have problems with value on that basis, you might have to split
the groups down even further, but that grouping seems to work quite well for
a nine patch on the boundaries.
Anne