Blocking needlepoint & ironing wool
Meredith Dill
told how to wash it, step by step. (I hate it when people assume I
don't know how to do anything, just because I'm young!)
1. How do I block this piece? It's Silk & Ivory on some sort of
non-linen evenweave fabric, not canvas.
2. If you iron wet wool, does it shrink? The aforementioned lady told
me it doesn't, but that doesn't agree with what my mother taught me.
Thanks!
Meredith
Fred
I'm not sure I can answer your question but here is a bit of history. I did
one canvas with Paterny? (h... patty) for a foot stool, "needle point in
hand". The framer I go to (old fashion, old country methods) said he washed
it in cold water for quite a while then placed it between two color fast
towel till slightly damp - no ironing. Then the piece was stretched on a
board and tacked in place every 5 stitch threads. Twice a day he would mist
the canvas and reset what ever tacks he had to in order to get things
straight. This took over three weeks. This makes sense to me because while
the canvas and wool is damp there is some give and take - but you *do not*
want to try to stretch it completely straight in one shot - it does not work
to my idea. Then he let it dry completely and upholstered the foot stool.
Cost of blocking alone $75.00. The next canvas I did on one of my fabric
mounts. Time for washing and a little blocking 3 days. Cost of blocking
alone $10.00
He tells me that the wool shrinks a bit but that it pulls all the stitches
together and this makes for a very smooth job if it is done gradually. NOW,
he also tells me he does it his way (see above) for all fabrics. He lets
them dry naturally while tacked in place - no ironing. Then he takes the
design off the board and frames them threading every five stitch threads on
the back side. He claims that after he is finished the design would not go
out of shape in two hundred years - who would be around to complain.LOL. He
is *very* busy which says it all.
I have never picked out a mat or frame. I just drop off the design and the
framer's wife makes whatever selection she thinks is best. I have never had
any reason to complain about the finished job. They are definitely
professionals! I just got my Rebbi at Study and my Majestic Eagle back. I
will have to take some pics on upload them to my pic file.
If you're already on thin ice
you might as well dance!
W.I.P. - "Fiddler on the Roof", "Romantic Venice",
"Ocean Princess", "Southwest Charm",
"Rainbow Trail", "Indian Pottery", "One Earth" and
"Spirit of the Full Moon".
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Meredith Dill
Meredith
Bungadora
loss of the sizing with laundering, rather than with wool shrinkage. Some
people paint the back of canvases with wallpaper paste to help them retain
their shape, apparently.
I've never heard of needlepoint shrinking from ironing, but then I've never
ironed needlepoint. But as the possessor of a one foot square sweater, I feel
obliged to comment that felt is produced from wool through the combination of
heat, moisture and friction.
Dora
>Meredith Dill Meri...@yahoo.com
Meredith Dill
canvas. Thanks!
Meredith
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen
Not to put any paste glue or paint on the textile , it ruins the
ability of the canvas to breath and can attract certain insects to eat
it. And in the long run , over many years it will harm the whole work.
make a little bath with luke warm water and some very delicate hair
shampoo ,, , play a bit with it in the water take out
change to clean luke warm water ,, rinse ,
now roll in towel and squeeze gently as if touching a baby`s head ,,,
change to Clean dry towel ,,, and let dry in cool aired place ,,,
change towel next day ,,,and roll the other side ,,
mirjam
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen
want it not to shrink after working on it you should pre=wash [ =pre
shrink it ] but than you might find the threads are too close for easy
spotting while embroidering ,
mirjam
Elizabeth O'Rourke
work. Go to
http://www.classicstitches.com/know_how/know_how.cfm?how_to_id=194&how_t
o_cat=Techniques .
HTH,
Liz
http://www.classicstitches.com
The magazine for stitchers worldwide
xray_momma
on a Bucilla Needlepoint pillow. I knew that I will probably have to block
it when finished and these directions are great. I haven't done any large
needlwork projects in many years. I am trying my best to do the continental
stich but there are so many areas when there are just a few stitches. It is
driving me crazy but I love it and can't wait to work on it each day.
Bungadora
learned to wash the needlepoint in cold water, tack it into place on a board
and let it dry. As to sizing, I was told that the sizing remained in the
canvas, and that as the canvas dried, it re-solidified.
I've been quite happy using this method, but then I've done mostly pillows and
chair seats. Plus, my pieces don't seem to warp out very much.
About a year ago, a certain close relative told me, very emphatically, that
this method was wrong, and that I would wash out the sizing if I washed my
needlepoint. She learned this in HER needlepoint class. (Obviously there is a
need for standardized curriculum.) This would be particularly important if I
did any pieces like rugs. I did a bit of research, and found the reference to
wallpaper paste in one of Kaffe Fassett's books. He states it has an
anti-fungicidal effect. Also, what about painting the back of rugs with liquid
rubber as some of the hookers do?
Not that I am particularly committed to wallpaper paste or rubber, but I would
like to see some discussion of this contradiction.
He also just dampens the needlepoint when blocking it, and I noticed the web
site cited in a previous post recommends the same method. I have some
reservations about not washing needlepoint, because oil from the hands would
remain on the fibers, which is another source of critter infestation.
Any comments?
Dora
> mir...@actcom.co.il (Mirjam Bruck-Cohen)
Meredith Dill
Thanks,
Meredith