Q: yarn to floss color conversion chart
Alec Ellsworth
Paternayan yarn to DMC floss. I have much DMC floss I'd like to use
before buying yarn.
Thank you in advance.
Laurie Ellsworth
LHBanchik
you'ld want to do that anyway. The texture of floss is different than
yarn and would give a different look to your piece.
LHBanchik
Joan & Alfred Clubok
Ellsworth) wrote:
The mag "Needlepoint Plus" puts out a booklet of Color Comparison Charts.
It lists many brand names such as Paternayan, DMC, Appleton matched by
color. You can use the charts to change from wool to floss, or one brand
to another. The last price I saw was $7.50 plus $1.00 p&H.
Write to them at
Needlepont Plus Chart
Box 5967-NP193
Concord, CA 94524
Hope this helps.
Joan
bonni brooks
says:
Well, I can give you one example for needing/wanting a conversion chart
for Paternayan Persian wool to DMC. I needed one a few years back when
converting a needlepoint chart to cross stitch. I just sort of winged
it, but a conversion chart would have made the process a lot easier (and
the project, which is about 90% done, a little prettier).
I wouldn't know how to use wool on aida or linen. Maybe by separating
the plies? But still, I'd rather use embroidery floss.
bonni
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Bonni Brooks "The Lone Quilter" | If CON is the opposite of PRO, |
| u6...@wvnvm.wvnet.edu | what's the opposite of |
| http://wvnvm.wvnet.edu/~u6ed4/bonni.html | CONgress? |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
-Otto,M.R.
The concept of color conversion is near and dear to me. It is something
that has allowed me to enrich my stitching greatly over the years, and
to experiment with different fibers. There is a whole world out there
beyond the DMC floss boxes, and it is fun!
No color conversion chart is "correct".
Okay, so what does that mean? It means that any color conversion chart
that you get is the product of someone's interpretation. Okay? Let's
talk about the conversion chart between Anchor Floss and DMC. So, you
get all the floss samples together in a room, and you try to find the
closest match under a variety of lighting conditions. The colors will
NEVER match exactly. Consider two different blue floss shades. They
may be the closest match to each other, but one may have more of a warm
red undertone, while the other has a cooler purple undertone. But they
are still the closest match. The next closest match may be closer in
the undertones, but not match in color intensity (it may appear faded
compared to the "matching" tone). But the chart can only list ONE "matching"
shade. So what happens? You work on a picture which is predominantly
done with colors with warm red undertones, and the blue color looks "off"
because it has a cool purple undertone.
Even using the most scientific of spectral analysis to match the colors
requires compromises when the colors do not match exactly.
So, (stepping up on soap box) I recommend that you perform all the color
substitutions yourself, and ignore the charts.
(Stepping down.) If you have access to the fibers used in the chart,
then "pull" (that is, take one skein) of each of the colors in the chart
and lay them out on the fabric you will be using for the project. Then,
begin selecting the replacement fibers, and laying them out in the same
pattern on the fabric (1 to 1 correspondence). It is important that the
colors you select are not just a reasonable match, but that they provide
the same color harmony with each other as the original colors. You
will be able to tell if a color is not in harmony because it will leap out
of the group (that is, your eye will be quick to notice the greater contrast
between that color and other colors). The most helpful thing is to examine
the color harmony of the original fiber selections. This can be done even
on projects where the original fiber will be used, as an aid for selecting
alternative fabric backgrounds, or making a change to one color in the
pattern for personal preference. (for example, I changed the hair color
on a MarBek angel from blonde to brunette, so it would look more like my
late mother)
Believe me, you can do this. It is not as hard as you might think. It
is really easy to see colors that don't go together really well. They
just don't look right together. Any TWO colors can look fine together.
But when you put together 10-25 colors, one that doesn't belong really
sticks out. (I remember looking for a color to stitch bunnies on a
sampler, and not being able to find a color that didn't look awful with
the primary colors and brown background of the rest of the sampler. No
matter what I tried, the bunnies always looked wrong. Finally I switched
them to oranges and the oranges harmonized and didn't stick out like a
sore thumb. It's like choosing the right color of red. One will look
like red, another will look like purple, another like orange if put into
the same picture. You have to choose the one that looks "red" with the
other colors around it.)
There is a trick for testing shade matching if you are really concerned.
You take the two colors you want to match, and you take a "Xerox" (okay,
Xerox is a TM of Xerox corporation) of the two of them. If you can't
tell them apart on the Xerox, then they are a decent match in shade,
if not for color.
Now, a word about wool. Many of the samplers worked by our forebearers
were worked in fine wool. A fine wool which you may be able to get is
the DMC Medici wool. It can be worked on linen, 19ct - 36ct reasonably
well. I have had many positive experiences stitching in wool on linen.
I particularly like wool for it's softness of appearance. A richly
colored wool on a natural unbleached linen can be very beautiful. For
an introductory project, you might try stitching one of the Prairie
Schooler Christmas designs on a 19ct linen using Medici. The "home-spun"
look of the wool (which has thicker and thinner spots, just like the linen)
and the "primitive" designs complement each other rather well.
Your faithful friend in stitching,
Mary Otto
Beverly Sulewski
needlepoint...
Beverly
susan cassidy
>Greetings, fellow stitchers.
>
>There is a trick for testing shade matching if you are really concerned.
>You take the two colors you want to match, and you take a "Xerox" (okay,
>Xerox is a TM of Xerox corporation) of the two of them. If you can't
>tell them apart on the Xerox, then they are a decent match in shade,
>if not for color.
>
color values. You could use one for floss comparison also, I imagine.
--
Susan Cassidy
email: susan....@sandiegoca.attgis.com