Needlework FAQ: Stitching and Embroidery Techniques
Kathleen M. Dyer
Needlework FAQ: Stitching and Embroidery Techniques
_________________________________________________________________
Kathleen M. Dyer -- <kd...@dnai.com>
For rec.crafts.textiles.needlework
October 15, 2001
Copyright © 1994-2001 Kathleen M. Dyer
All Rights Reserved.
Permission is granted to redistribute this article in its entirety for
noncommercial use provided that this copyright notice is not removed
or altered and that no portion of this work is sold either by itself
or as part of a larger work without the express written permission of
the author.
_________________________________________________________________
Table of Contents
1. Comments
2. Assisi Work
3. Blackwork
4. Counted Thread Work
5. Drawn Thread Work
6. Duplicate Stitch
7. Hardanger Embroidery
8. Pulled Thread Work
9. Shadow Work
10. Whitework
A. About the Needlework FAQs
A.1 General Comments
A.2 How to Find the FAQs
_________________________________________________________________
1. Comments
There are many, many styles or techniques for counted thread work and
embroidery. Most are centuries old, and have been in and out of
fashion more than once.
This list is far from complete. Any additions to this list or to the
descriptions are welcome.
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2. Assisi Work
From: Mary Rita Otto <mo...@avaya.com>...
Assisi Work is a form of embroidery where the background is
stitched around an unstitched silouette design, which is outlined
in backstitch to further define it. One particularly lovely form
employes subtle shading of the background threads -- to me, it
looks like a sunrise backlighting the subject. These designs can be
particularly lovely.
Contrary to popular opinion, Assisi work is not the opposite of
Blackwork. In most Assisi work, the background is worked in a plain
filling stitch, normally cross-stitch. The outlining in Assisi work
is normally Backstitch rather than double running stitch, because
backstitch makes a smoother line. (Note, Assisi work is done using
a blunt needle. Double running stitch is best done using a sharp
needle so that the second pass of stitches can split the threads of
the first path to make a smooth line. Double running stitch done
with a blunt needle will have the adjacent stitches not match
exactly at the ends, where the threads must pass beside each other
at the 'holes'.)
Please note that while it is possible to use patterned stitches to
fill in the background for Assisi work, this is not usually done
because it detracts from the design. If the eye is focused away
from the voided area (the outlined but unfilled element of the
design) the impact of the design is lost. The best Assisi work has
a solid color background, or very subtle shading with no visible
'lines' in the background.
_________________________________________________________________
3. Blackwork
From: Gillian Cannon <gillian...@solar.org>...
...It was brought to England by Catherine of Aragon, I believe, and
came into popularity through the paintings of Hans Holbein (it is
also called "Holbein" work) and because lace could not be imported
from France because of the war. The blackwork gives the look of
lace to a garment's sleeves, collar, and other areas.
From: Mary Rita Otto <mo...@avaya.com>...
I've been researching the history of Blackwork. Actually, it dates
back to at least the 1300's. It was mentioned in the Canterbury
Tales, in a description of the Miller's wife's nightcap. While the
use of black wool (natural, rather than dyed) on white linen is one
of the traditional forms, red on white was also extremely popular.
Catherine of Aragon was responsible for bringing the darker
fashions of Spain to England, and with them came a fashion trend
for blackwork in court clothing (as opposed to peasant clothing
like the miller's wife was wearing in the 1300's).
Please note that blackwork merely became High Fashion (tm) at this
time. It had been done for centuries prior to that. The popularity
of blackwork which is described above came with the popularity of
black in fashion -- prior to that, the fashion was to use multiple
colors. To provide the distinction of different shadings, using a
single color, the geometric filling patterns of blackwork were
employed. This allowed complex design while using a single color.
Only some blackwork is reversible. Reversible work is confined
primarily to border patterns. The reversible patterns were worked
in double running stitch, sometimes overcast to smooth the lines
and hide the holes between the stitches. Other embroidery in the
classification of blackwork are repeating "diaper" patterns used as
filling stitches, and outlined in chain, split or stem stitch.
These were worked on a plain ground fabric, not necessarily an even
weave. Interestingly, a technique was developed using starched
cheesecloth over the plain fabric to regulate the stitch length,
much like the modern use of waste canvas.
I must take issue with Gillian's comment about Hans Holbein. Hans
painted portraits after the popularity of blackwork was
established. Hans did not "start a fad" -- those portraits didn't
circulate like a copy of People magazine!
Some say blackwork was a substitute for lace. I find that hard to
swallow. It would be simpler to make needlemade lace than to
execute the blackwork shown in portraits of the time. It is more
likely that it was just a fashion. Someone of influence like
Catherine of Aragon who might just happen to like the geometric
look of blackwork, and really like the look of black on white, was
capable of starting a trend. Spain, because of the Moorish/Islamic
influences and traditions, had much more geometric design heritage
than England. Such geometric designs were a refreshing fashion
change for the women of the English court! Consider the fashion
influence of Jackie Kennedy in 1960 for a modern comparison.
From: Shirley Wolfersperger <wo...@mho.net>
... Notes from "The Ultimate Blackwork Class" copyright S.K.
Wolfersperger. Reprinted by permission.
Blackwork is one of the counted thread works. It was named (as
almost all embroidery techniques are named) from its classic and
pre-classic periods when it was done with black silk threads
(usually) on white linen fabric. Other colors of blackwork which
are extant from the Elizabethan period are red, blue, and green. It
was sometimes done with gold metallic thread (called silver gilt
because of its composition), silver threads, and paillettes which
are small metal sequins.
Blackwork was never done as a framed piece to hang on a wall until
the 20th century. Before this it was only done on clothing,
household furnishings, and some ecclesiastical work. Some practice
samplers from this period also have blackwork bits on them.
Blackwork can be divided into the following periods:
* Before about 1500 when there was blackwork portrayed in Spain,
Switzerland, and written about in England.
* 1500-about 1550, the Tudor phase when Spanish influence was
greatest. Blackwork was still done on clothing in the countries of
Switzerland, Spain, and Austria during this time.
* About 1550-1600, the Elizabethan classic age when blackwork
realized its full blossoming.
* The Stuart age from 1600-1650 when blackwork was dying out.
* From 1650-early 1900's blackwork was not done in England. It may
have continued in Spanish (and related countries') samplers, but
that connection is not yet quite clear.
* 1920-1960, the post-classic period, which occurred in England and
the United States after a revival in the former's Embroiderers'
Guild.
* The modern period which started in England in about 1960 and came
to America a bit later.
The above dates are approximate.
_________________________________________________________________
4. Counted Thread Work
From: Mary Rita Otto <mo...@avaya.com>...
This is the descriptive category for stitches worked over a counted
number of threads. It includes traditional sampler making stitches
such as long-armed cross-stitch, Italian cross-stitch, four sided
stitch, Queen stitch, nun's stitch, herringbone, and "countless"
;^) others. Cross-stitch is only one of the many counted thread
stitches. Eileen Bennett of The Sampler House is a leading
authority on this traditional sampler making stitches.
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5. Drawn Thread Work
From: Mary Rita Otto <mo...@avaya.com>...
This is a technique which is enjoying a resurgence. It involves the
removal of some of the threads from a section of the fabric. One of
the more interesting techniques is to remove the horizontal threads
and to work twisting patterns (called leno work) in the remaining
vertical threads. This creates a lovely lacey effect. Linda
Driscoll is a leading designer of Drawn Thread samplers and
provides excellent instruction in the techniques in her
publications.
Drawn Thread Work is traditionally worked in white on white (or
ivory on ivory) and is sometimes called "White Work". Such monotone
samplers are often displayed by mounting them over a piece of
colored linen to highlight the open work areas. Interesting effects
can be achieved using color with the technique, though.
Needleweaving (one of the techniques) can be used to create, for
example, a row of Christmas trees in openwork. Gold threads were
used in some historic pieces worked in this technique.
_________________________________________________________________
6. Duplicate Stitch
Duplicate Stitch is a technique for embroidering on knitted objects so
that the design appears to have been knitted in. It is done as a
series of V's, to match the V's in a standard stockinette weave. While
regular cross stitch patterns may be used, it is important to remember
that the resulting design will appear squashed.
_________________________________________________________________
7. Hardanger Embroidery
Hardanger is a Scandinavian counted thread technique, performed on
linen or a special evenweave cloth called (logically) Hardanger.
Traditionally, it is done with a matching color cotton thread such as
Perle. Hardanger embroidery bears a resemblance to Drawn Thread Work,
but it emphasizes box shapes rather than long rows of stitches.
_________________________________________________________________
8. Pulled Thread Work
Pulled Thread is a technique which intimidates some stitchers. It
shouldn't, because very complicated looking patterns can be created
with some of the simpler pulled thread stitches. Probably the hardest
thing for a needleworker new to the technique to remember is to pull
hard.
From: Mary Rita Otto <mo...@avaya.com>...
Pulled Thread is one of my favorite techniques. It is, like it
says, a technique where the embroidered thread is pulled tightly.
This distorts the threads of the fabric, creating holes between the
stitches. It makes a nice, light, lacey effect. I find that a
border of double backstitch, pulled, makes a lovely accent around a
stitched piece. It is simple to work. For someone who would like to
experiment with this simplest of pulled thread techniques, I
recommend the pattern leaflet from Sal-Em for their table linens
which shows the rose design. This was my introduction into the
technique. The instructions were very clear, and the stitch is easy
to do. I was very pleased with the results of my first effort.
(Hey, I went on to make 4 placemats and 4 napkins, so that says
something!)
Pulled Thread is, apparently, a Danish technique. There are a lot
of different patterns for pulled thread, either as a border or a
filling stitch. It tends to have a lighter effect than either
hardanger or drawn thread, and does not require the cutting of the
fabric threads.
_________________________________________________________________
9. Shadow Work
From: Dianne Lewandowski <tom...@netnet.net>...
Shadow Work:
This form of embellishment encompasses several techniques, all
involving white, sheer (such as voile, batiste, organdy) fabrics in
natural silk or cotton. ITALIAN SHADOW QUILTING uses colored yarns
in the quilted channels. SHADOW APPLIQUE employs white or colored
fabric placed on the reverse side of the fabric and attached with
several different methods - the most common being pin stitching
(Madeira applique). Very tiny hem stitching, three-sided (Belgian)
stitch, among others, are also used. Shadow Applique was rare in
Ayrshire and Chikan work, but specimens are still available.
The third form is SHADOW EMBROIDERY. Three stitches are used:
herringbone; plain, zig/zag stitching known as Indian Shadow Work;
and (shadow) darning. Floss should be chosen of sufficient color to
show through the fabric. A raised effect on the surface adds to the
interest of the work.
Stitchers can work the herringbone stitch from either the front or
the back of the work, whichever is more comfortable. The long
threads must always be on the wrong side of the fabric. Very tiny
stitches (picking up only a few threads of the fabric) are
mandatory. The worker should use a small hoop to maintain correct
tension. Stitches should be no longer than approximately one-half
inch (1 cm).
Indian Shadow Work is done in the same fashion, but the stitches do
not cross each another.
Shadow Darning is simply an added step to either of the above two
stitches. After the work is complete, floss is darned over and
under stitches. This creates a darker hue on the surface of the
work, and can be used to add more depth of color to some leaves or
petals of flowers in a design.
Dianne Lewandowski
Heritage Shoppe
November 8, 1996
From: Stella Nemeth <s.ne...@ix.netcom.com>...
...This is both a very old form of embroidery and something that is
just making a comeback. It was popular in the last century and
again in the 1930s and is just beginning to make a dent in the
heirloom sewing world... It is embroidery done on a
semi-transparent fabric like organdy. The idea is that you can see
the threads on the back as a sort of colored pastel shadow. On the
front, all you can see is what looks like backstitches outlining
the elements of the design -- usually leaves, flowers and big bows.
On the back the thread produces a herringbone pattern out of the
crossing threads which almost, but not quite, fills in the elements
being embroidered.
Modern shadow embroidery sometimes has surface embroidery on it as
well in the form of french knots for flower centers and bouillon
roses.
_________________________________________________________________
10. Whitework
From: Dianne Lewandowski <tom...@netnet.net>...
WHITEWORK - WHITE THREADS ON A WHITE GROUND FABRIC
AYRSHIRE NEEDLEWORK
The "flowerers" of Scotland perfected this classification of
embroidery, correctly referred to as Ayrshire Needlework. From
original peasant designs, this form of whitework reached its peak
in the early to mid 1800's in large part because of the foresite of
Mrs. Jamieson, the wife of an Ayr cotton agent. The industry
quickly faded with the advent of machine-made embroideries that
could mimic this work.
Ayrshire Needlework is still practised, but the many hours it takes
to complete a piece relegates this form of whitework to
embroiderers with esoteric passions. The stitches are not
difficult, but exacting and tire the eyes quickly. A hoop is not
used except for the lace fillings, pulled thread and drawn fabric
motifs. The form incorporates trailings (tiny satin stitches over a
padded outline stitch), eyelets, padded satin stitch and seed
stitch. Applique and Shadow work are rarely used. It is impossible
to duplicate the original work, as the very sheer muslins and
cotton threads used at the time are no longer available. However,
reasonable facsimilies can be accomplished. Any needleworker who
enjoys a challenge should try Ayrshire Needlework.
CUT WORK
Interest in this work is growing, at this time. However, much of
the work is being done with satin stitching on the newer computer
sewing machines rather than by hand. Although the main stitch used
is referred to as the buttonhole stitch, this is a misnomer. It
actually is the closed blanket stitch. The buttonhole stitch is a
double looped stitch used only on buttonholes to increase wear.
A firm linen is required, although it is possible to use other firm
fabrics. Threads used for stitching is dependent upon the fabric
choice: floche, #30 Cebelia, cotton a broder or two strands of
six-strand embroidery floss, among others.
Cut work is a form of embroidery wherein portions of the ground
fabric are cut away. Several divisions are noted with each becoming
progressively more intricate. Venetian cut work is simply the
addition of padding stitches placed between the running stitches
before buttonholing is accomplished. Some forms of cut work give
the appearance of lace.
ORIGINAL CUTWORK is merely simple designs (such as large rounded
flowers with large leaves) with no ladderwork, and a running stitch
over which is laid a buttonhole stitch. RENAISSANCE has larger open
(cut) spaces and uses "bars" to strengthen the piece. These bars
can be made with woven or twisted threads, or buttonholed. Some of
the bars appear as "spider webs", creating an airy appearance.
RICHELIEU continues with more openwork and picots added to the
bars.
ITALIAN CUTWORK is little seen. It is done in geometric, open work
patterns with the surface of the material adorned with bullion and
other three-dimensional stitches.
BRODERIE ANGLAISE
Originally this work was confined to eyelet work. The round or oval
eyelets formed the patterns of flowers, leaves, stalks, vines and
decorative edgings. The more modern form adds satin stitch,
buttonhole (closed blanket) stitch, and includes ladder work. It is
sometimes referred to, incorrectly, as Ayrshire embroidery.
Although the forms overlap, as does many embroidery classes,
Broderie Anglaise has its own distinctive style.
Dianne Lewandowski
Heritage Shoppe
November 17, 1996
_________________________________________________________________
A. About the Needlework FAQs
A.1 General Comments
Welcome. This is one of several Needlework Frequently Asked Questions
(Needlework FAQs) documents for the rec.crafts.textiles.needlework
Usenet newsgroup on the Internet.
The FAQs are a collection of information that should be of use to
people who do many kinds of needlework. They include lists of
magazines, mail order companies, guilds, events--even conversion
tables. The hints and tips contained here have been collected from
many people who have been kind enough to share their wisdom with
rec.crafts.textiles.needlework.
Although efforts are made to make sure that the information in this
FAQ is correct, this document is provided as is, with no warranties or
guarantees of any kind either expressed or implied. Any commercial
products or services are listed as a courtesy to the reader. No
endorsement or value judgement is expressed or implied.
Please send comments and corrections to me.
Kathleen M. Dyer
<kd...@dnai.com>
The FAQs are successors to the original "Counted Cross Stitch FAQ",
first posted to the old rec.crafts.textiles newsgroup on April 20,
1994. Thanks to the people who have given permission for their
messages and postings to be quoted directly. Special thanks to those
people who read the draft of the original "Counted Cross Stitch FAQ"
for their time, care and suggestions.
A.2 How to Find the FAQs
The Needlework FAQs are posted regularly to the
rec.crafts.textiles.needlework newsgroup.
The Needlework FAQs and other RCTN informational documents are listed
below. They are posted regularly to rec.crafts.textiles.needlework.
They are also available at <http://www.dnai.com/~kdyer/faq.html>
Posting frequency: Monthly, first weekend after the 15th.
Author/Editor: Kathleen Dyer <kd...@dnai.com>
Needlework FAQ: Activities and Events
Online activities and real world consumer shows and classes.
Needlework FAQ: Competitions, Selling Designs or Needlework
Tips for entering competitions, selling finished products, and
selling designs.
Needlework FAQ: Computer Software
Information about nearly two dozen computer software companies and
their products for designing charts and maintaining databases.
Needlework FAQ: Counted Cross Stitch Tutorial
Discusses everything from selecting the fabric to framing the
picture (and most things in between).
Needlework FAQ: Creating Cross Stitch Charts
Different ways to create your own cross stitch charts.
Needlework FAQ: Designers and Design Companies
Needlework designers from around the world.
Needlework FAQ: Fabric
Information about evenweave fabrics from 6-count to 45-count,
including fiber content.
Needlework FAQ: Threads, Fibers, Embellishments
Color names or conversion charts for DMC, Anchor, J&P Coates,
Marlette, Medicis, Madeira, Au Ver A Soie, Mill Hill beads, Danish
Flower Thread, DMC Flower Thread, Ginny Thompson Flower Thread,
Kreinik Metallics.
Needlework FAQ: Magazines
Information about needlework magazines from North America, Europe
and Australia.
Needlework FAQ: Manufacturers and Distributors
Contact information for manufacturers and distributors from the
small, specialty companies to the big name brands.
Needlework FAQ: Organizations
Needlework guilds and organizations in North America, Europe and
Australia.
Needlework FAQ: Retailers
Needlework stores and retailers from Singapore to Texas (and places
between).
Needlework FAQ: Stitching and Embroidery Techniques
Short descriptions of different embroidery techniques.
Posting frequency: Twice a week
Author/Editor: Kathleen Dyer <kd...@dnai.com>
Rec.crafts.textiles.needlework Mini-FAQ
Very short list of tips about Usenet and RCTN.
Posting frequency: Weekly
Author/Editor: Kathleen Dyer <kd...@dnai.com>
What You Need to Know About Rec.crafts.textiles.needlework
Tips about Usenet and RCTN.
Needlework FAQs and Periodic Postings
List of many of the regular RCTN posts.
_________________________________________________________________
Copyright © 1994-2001 Kathleen M. Dyer
All Rights Reserved.
Last modified: October 15, 2001
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