washing silk thread
Donna L Kauffman
Good morning!
I need to wash my Shepherd's Bush "Wooly Winter" project. Can I do this
without hurting the silk threads? What about ironing this?
Thanks! Donna
--
Donna Kauffman
dkau...@runet.edu
Marina Salume
*Good morning!
*I need to wash my Shepherd's Bush "Wooly Winter" project. Can I do this
*without hurting the silk threads? What about ironing this?
*Thanks! Donna
Silk is washable but some of the dyes are not colorfast--so I would
test a bit of each one in cold water first to see what happens. If the
color bleeds, you'll have to have it dry cleaned. Use a bit of the leftover
silk floss for your test, don't dunk your stitched piece! You can use an
iron on the "silk" temperature setting, with a press cloth, which is just
a piece of smooth fabric that you keep between the iron and the stitched
piece. But if your piece is stitched on linen, you can get it really flat
by laying it on a smooth surface when it's wet and smoothing it flat with
your hands--let it dry and you may not have to press it at all. Always
press on the wrong side of your stitched piece, also.
--marina
ERivera308
Hi Donna
I have read in my needlework books that silk thread is not to be washed.
It must be dry cleaned. I would not take the chance washing it. Find a
reputable dry cleaner.
EdithNYC
Steve and Terri
ERivera308 (erive...@aol.com) wrote:
: I have read in my needlework books that silk thread is not to be washed.
: reputable dry cleaner.
I feel just the opposite way: I would rather wash the pieces I've done
using silk thread than entrust them to a dry cleaner.
I don't know what thread Shepherd Bush uses in their kits, but I've washed
pieces done on linen using Kreinik/A Ver Au Soie silk, Caron's silk
threads (including Waterlilies), Madeira's silk floss and Splendor's
12-stranded silk, all with no problem. I use cool water, a mild cleaning
agent (like Orvus,) and I'm careful not to soak the piece too long. I
then rinse it carefully, roll the piece in a towel the minute I take it
out of the water, then iron it dry face down on another towel.
Even a piece I thought would be a huge disaster came out just fine -- I
was halfway through Just Nan's With My Needle a little over a year ago,
using Kreinik's Silk MOri and Soie D'Alger, when it got blood on it. I
carefully soaked the blood out, expecting that, at the very least, the
dark green silk would fade enough to be obviously different from the part
that wasn't yet done. But it came out fine, and it's hanging in my living
room today. You can't see any difference between what I had stitched
before the accident, and what came after, and it's all beautiful.
If you have any doubts, make some test stitches with some leftover thread
on a scrap of fabric and wash it. That way you'll know exactly how the
silk will respond to washing...
Terri
--
Terri Carl
ter...@neosoft.com
Dianne Lewandowski
I posted on my site, with Kreinik's permission, their brochure which
contains information on the care of silk. They do not recommend washing
silk threads - and to use the "dry" dry cleaning method.
However, I have washed all manner of silk and silk threads, with
absolutely no problems. (Even with that "dreaded" Woolite before I knew
better). Having said that, I would not put all that effort (or cost) on
a piece that will see weekly washings. Save your silk fabric and silk
threads for those items that you will need to wash only occasionally.
(If, indeed, you decide to wash and not have professionally cleaned).
You can view this info at:
http://bayland.net/~tom+di/heritage/heritag2.html
Click on "What's New"
Dianne
Janet M. Perry
In article <19970701031...@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
erive...@aol.com (ERivera308) wrote:
> Hi Donna
>
> I have read in my needlework books that silk thread is not to be washed.
> It must be dry cleaned. I would not take the chance washing it. Find a
> reputable dry cleaner.
Most of the dyes used for silk embroidery thread is not colorfast. It can
be washed, but the dyes might run.
There is one line of silk thread which is colorfast. It's made by
Needlepoint, Inc in San Francisco. it is colorfast and dyed to match
Appleton wools. They sell it retail and wholesale and have a Web site
wear you can order it:
I've used it for several projects and I like ti MUCH better than any other
silk I've used.
Janet Perry
Needlepoint Guide, The Mining Company
http://needlepoint.miningco.com
Apiarian
Dianne wrote:
<snip>
>However, I have washed all manner of silk and silk threads, with
>absolutely no problems. (Even with that "dreaded" Woolite before I knew
>better).
"Dreaded" Woolite? Why "dreaded"? I've never needed to use it, but never
thought there was a reason not to use it, either.
Jennifer
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Knowledge = power= energy = matter = mass; a good bookshop is just a genteel Black hole that knows how to read. Terry Pratchett
Dianne Lewandowski
Jennifer,
I've read so many posts warning of the hazards of "Woolite" (contains
bleach, whiteners and what have you?) that I contacted DMC to see what
they suggested. There reply was an emphatic Never Use Woolite, but a
mild soap such as Ivory.
Well, to tell you the truth, I still use it - after the embroidery is
completed. It is the only thing I have found that removes all manner of
pencil marks - and the garments/items usually come out so nice looking -
like they've never been washed, handled or what have you. But I don't
use it again for anything since I was told it's a no no. But on tags
that go to customers, I now specifically recommend Ivory Soap.
An article in McCalls a couple of years ago from a textile restorer gave
a recipe for cleaning old linens/cottons and other vintage pieces
(including embroidered ones). That used dish soap and clorox2 (I can
hunt up the exact recipe if anyone is interested).
Also, I have tried the old method of boiling cottons or linens -
including embroidered ones. (That's why the old floss and threads said
"boilfast".) You wouldn't believe what boiling water does to clean
clothes. It's a miracle.
I'm not recommending any of this - just relating personal experiences.
Dianne
DrawnThred
I second your recommendation, Janet. Needlepoint, Inc. Silk is truly
washable. We use it in all our kits and have been very pleased with the
quality and color fastness. We did a test by stitching a small sample in
the brightest colors available from their line (reds, oranges, etc. colors
that usually bleed). We got NO bleeding whatsoever. I would highly
recommend this silk to anyone who wants to wash their work before framing.
Cynthia
The Drawn Thread
Valerie Higgins
I have a very beautiful silk on silk, 18" x 24" piece that I picked up in
Bangladesh. It is a recreation of an Indian (east) traditional picture
from mythology. For a while, it was hanging in my bedroom - then I
noticed it was starting to fade so I moved it to my very dark hallway. I
got the piece in 1983 and it was framed without glass - I've noticed
lately that it is starting to get a little dingy and probably needs
cleaning. I don't trust the cleaners around here and I'm pretty sure they
washed it when they finished the piece - the background is an off-white
heavy silk with very vivid silk floss. I think it's time to reframe with
glass and would like suggestions for cleaning. If I wash it, what do I
use? Any suggestions?
On 1 Jul 1997, Steve and Terri wrote:
> ERivera308 (erive...@aol.com) wrote:
> : I have read in my needlework books that silk thread is not to be washed.
> : It must be dry cleaned. I would not take the chance washing it. Find a
> : reputable dry cleaner.
>
> I feel just the opposite way: I would rather wash the pieces I've done
> using silk thread than entrust them to a dry cleaner.
>
> I don't know what thread Shepherd Bush uses in their kits, but I've washed
> pieces done on linen using Kreinik/A Ver Au Soie silk, Caron's silk
> threads (including Waterlilies), Madeira's silk floss and Splendor's
> 12-stranded silk, all with no problem. I use cool water, a mild cleaning
> agent (like Orvus,) and I'm careful not to soak the piece too long. I
> then rinse it carefully, roll the piece in a towel the minute I take it
> out of the water, then iron it dry face down on another towel.
>
ERivera308
Hi Valarie
I guess I am looking at not washing silk thread from a needlepointer's
point of view. Maybe when using linen or aida cloth it is different. I do
not want to mislead anyone.
Happy Stitching
EdithNYC
Live Stock Reporter
I am so happy. I just got my first floor frame, and its truly
wonderful, but I have some questions that weren't addressed in
the brochure that came with it.
When you need to get to the back, what do you do?
Do you A} unclamp the scroll frame and then clamp it back
or do you B) turn the knob and rotate the scroll frame.
Both seem unwieldy right now, but I'm still clumsy with it.
Another question is this, which hand do you use for the back?
I set the frame up left handed (since I am), and then went nuts
because I realize I use my left hand underneath, because I have
such poor coordination with my right. So I disassembled and re-
assembled the thing. This seems to work better, but I don't know...
KPaules531
Help, help! I need to find a conversion chart for Ginnie Thompson flower
thread to DMC flower thread. Can anyone help? I'd even accept a DMC to
GTFT chart if that's the only format available.
You can post the location here at RCTN. Surely there are others who would
like this information.
Happy Stitching!
JoAnn
Gina Beck
Hi!!!!
On my floor frame I use my dominant hand underneath. I tend to have
more control feeling the back of the work with it. On my frame I just
loosen the know and turn toward myself to get to the back of the work.
I hope this helps.
Gina
dkth...@removemindspring.com
Live Stock Reporter <li...@dfw.net> wrote, in part:
>I am so happy. I just got my first floor frame, and its truly
>wonderful, but I have some questions that weren't addressed in
>the brochure that came with it.
I love my Gazelle and am sure you'll love yours too.
>When you need to get to the back, what do you do?
Slightly loosen the outside knob then turn the top scroll bar toward
you. When you flip the scrolls back, the knob tightens itself (or it
will after you get used to it).
>Another question is this, which hand do you use for the back?
I use my dominate (right) hand on top, but lots of people use it on
bottom. It feels very unusual at first, but once you get used to it
you'll be surprised at how much faster you can stitch.
DebT
---------------------
Please remove "REMOVE" from my email address to reply.
Michelle Elder
Live Stock Reporter <li...@dfw.net> wrote:
Congrats on your new frame!!!!! DH bought me one a couple of years
ago and I thank him every time I use it!
Did you get the bookstand, too?
First: You might find that it takes a short while to become
accustomed to stitching with a frame, since you are no longer holding
the fabric. I found I changed my methods to use the frame, but until
I did, I was frustrated and thought I made a big mistake in getting
the frame. (Especially since DH drove me thru a blizzard to get it--2
weeks before Xmas!) Be patient and keep periodically adjust the frame
to find a comfortable position. I do this *automatically now*, but it
felt foreign and awkward at first.
>I am so happy. I just got my first floor frame, and its truly
>wonderful, but I have some questions that weren't addressed in
>the brochure that came with it.
>When you need to get to the back, what do you do?
>Do you A} unclamp the scroll frame and then clamp it back
>or do you B) turn the knob and rotate the scroll frame.
Consider your scroll frame to be part of the floor stand. There is no
need to unclamp it unless you are putting another project on the floor
stand.
To get to the back turn your *scroll frame*. In other words, push to
top of the scroll frame towards the floor--as if you're trying to get
it to do a somersault and --voila--!
>Both seem unwieldy right now, but I'm still clumsy with it.
As I mentioned before, I felt it was quite strange to work with at
first, too. I'm short, so I had an extremely difficult time using a
scroll frame. I kept bumping into the end of the scroll frame when I
was working. Also, I work with very large projects and I like to have
a lot of extra fabric when I work. The scroll frames I would need for
some of the projects would be so long and heavy, that the Gazelle
would tip over! (Tho you can sit with your feet on the long bar in
front of you--but I don't like the balancing act!)
I tried a 14" quilting hoop (they're like a very heavy embrodiery hoop
with cushioning between the rings) and it made all the difference in
the world! It accommodates any size project, is gentle to the fabric
(Might be hard on Aida, but I don't use Aida), and is easy for me to
work on!
>Another question is this, which hand do you use for the back?
I'm extremely right-handed and like my right hand on top of the fabric
most of the time. From time to time, I've noticed, however, that I do
switch hands.
>I set the frame up left handed (since I am), and then went nuts
>because I realize I use my left hand underneath, because I have
>such poor coordination with my right. So I disassembled and re-
>assembled the thing. This seems to work better, but I don't know...
Please be patient with it! You will find a way of working that is
more comfortable! But only you can find it!
I find that my stitching is *more* enjoyable now!
Some benefits to the floor stand:
You can display your project at all times
(Motivation for me to work on it!)
You can work it many separate areas at once
(Load up on needles!)
(Big Seller for me! Speeds up the work)
You can see most, if not all, of the piece in one glance
(Rather than having to unfold a piece)
You have everything at your fingertips!
(No need to get up!)
Please e-mail me (m...@mv.mv.com) if you need some encouragement with
it or if you've got questions.
Happy stitching!
M.
Aheim
The World In Stitches, Littleton, Massachusetts, can help you with this
kind of thing. Contact them and ask for Randi or Linda. A great store
with lots of different things.
Anne